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Can anyone identify this problem?

baunty

New member


yeah thats might be it. thats the reason i did flush. but yesterday when they I watered them the extra that came out had still low ph(5.4, 5.5) I will try to give them next time water with ph 7 or 7.5 to ballance it. Any Idea how to raise the water ph? they getting water with Canna vega and its lowering the ph way too much unfortunately.
 

baunty

New member
what do you mean by run off?
well this is not the first time I growing. I had 5 years ago a grow room for a year, and I been growing autos from sweet seeds (cream mandarin) so my memory is a bit rusty.
Now I having a 120x120 room with 12 plants flowering already and a mother room.
with mothers I have no experience at all, and I made some mistakes at the beginning.
I see my mistakes and for the next time I will do a better job. And thanks for your answer, and help! I ordered a ph stabilizer so I will have an easier job to control the ph level. <3
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
gypsum

gypsum

Gypsum, calcium sulfate dihydrate is used in heavy alkaline clay soils to break up soil. Hard-pan soils. Too much of it will fuck up your grow as you can see. A better source of cal-mag is Calcium magnesium carbonate, or Dolomitic lime. It has about 50% calcium carbonate and 40% magnesium carbonate, giving approximately 22% calcium and at least 11% magnesium..
However you would be better off just running Kis organic soil without amending it.! Especially if you have Kis Organic, Add Water Only bag. I don't think adding peat helped much either. If you want to save those plants, then you need to repot them using only Kis organic soil without adding anything. You may loose 2 to 3 weeks but its not too late.
Gently Take those plants out of the pots and knock off about a 1/3 to a 1/2 of the old soil and put them in fresh soil. They will shock for a while but they'll come back.
 

Lost in a SOG

GrassSnakeGenetics
The other problem is that a sub optimal VPD will lead to the plant not accumulating enough Ca as it goes along. As Ca is immobile you need ideal temperature/humidity control (VPD) to provide ideal transpiration, in soil especially, to maintain consistent supply of immobile nutrients. And when the plants hit their peak demand putting on biomass you quickly see the Ca def and K toxicity appear but in reality the plant was skirting on the edge of Ca deficiency the whole time..

In Hydro or coco the plants are in basically ideal nutrients and in a highly oxygenated medium so so long as you know what you're doing with pH and use a decent nutrient its simpler than soil.

As i see it in weakly buffered peaty soils given basically just nutrients its really easy for the pH to tank making K super available and Ca not really at all, that's if there is any Ca really left in the soil by that point. Plants turn forrest green from the K and start to burn from general salt accumulation as the growth/feeding is retarded which ends up in a spiral of excess acidity, slow transpiration, root rot and salt burn that can be hard to get out of without getting away as much toxic sodden soil from around the stressed roots and repotting into a nicely buffered medium but not full strength or anything. Youve already set yourself back in time but if you want to get an actual result i would go with creepers advice personally.
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
to clarify

to clarify

gypsum is to used only when the pH is balanced, and you have an excess of Mg and low on Ca. The sulfate in gypsum leaches the Mg into Epson salt reducing the Mg and making Ca more available. Another good trait gypsum has is to bring up the sulfur a little. If used in excess it will burn bad!

gypsum and lime can be use together when the soil has Low pH, High Mg and Low Ca.

use lime only when theirs too much H+. It helps to raise pH by driving excess H+ ions off of the exchange sites, replacing the H+ with Ca and/or Mg (depending on lime form)
 
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