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Old 02-19-2019, 08:42 AM #281
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Awesome thread! I'll have to keep this one in mind.
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Old 02-24-2019, 05:24 AM #282
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Originally Posted by Sachiel View Post
Hey Mystic Funk,


I observed that if you get rid of the seeds shell before trasplanting it onto TC media, germ rates increase significantly! Also, I have them grow callus tissue on purpose, because you can devide that and generate multiple plants from a single seed.


This is what Callus emerging from 30 year old seeds looks like:
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Hey! Thank you for sharing that info here. This is can be very useful for someone that wants to go the tissue culture route for popping old seeds.

That makes a lot of sense taking the seed hull off like that.

How do you go about cleaning the seed off before placing it into the medium without killing it?


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Old 02-24-2019, 06:37 PM #283
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Hey Mystic Funk,


I usually sterilize the seeds as follows:


First you soak the seeds for about 12-20 h. You might want to do that at temperatures below 15°C because the seeds should not pop before sterilization!


After that, the seeds will go threw these washing solutions:


1. 70% Ethanol 30 Sec.
2. 400ppm NaDCC-Solution 60-90 Sec.
(NaDCC can be exchanged wit diluted bleach, the solution should however contain about 400ppm clorine)
3. rinse with sterile, distilled water
4. Repeat Step 1-3 again.


After that, I crack the seeds under the sterile workbench and inoculate immediately. If you don`t have one, you can easily build a glovebox and use that for inoculation.


Hope this helps!


Greetings,
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Old 02-24-2019, 08:02 PM #284
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Originally Posted by bestothebest View Post
Has anyone tried Woodshed13's (Instagram) seed cracker? it screws slowly down until the seed cracks, so that part of germination is already solved. I have heard good things about it as well.
I got one recently and put it use last night.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BrV7EkOhpcx/


I had 18 old Apollo 13 X Skunk #1 seeds I made in 2001. After a Peroxide bath they were all cracked and put in paper towels. I'll give them 24 - 36 hrs. before I start checking them.

Today I'm going to crack some old Neville's Haze F-2 seeds I made in 2000. They will be placed in a soil seed starter mix as per my normal germination method.

I have 100's of old seeds I made in 1999 - 2002 and have been trying for over a year to get a few to germinate. I've tried all these different methods with no success. From what I've seen the worm bin seems to be ticket.
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Old 02-25-2019, 12:19 AM #285
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Should be a some great things to find in those nevilles haze f2's you made, hope lots of germinate for you.

The seed crack works well, used for vanilluna seeds and they had no problem after being gently cracked.
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Old 02-28-2019, 01:22 AM #286
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If I don't have access to a worm bin, do you guys think worm castings by themselves would help with germination?
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Old 02-28-2019, 12:23 PM #287
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If I don't have access to a worm bin, do you guys think worm castings by themselves would help with germination?
I have tried it and failed.

But my seeds aren't old. They have an inbreeding problem so most of them fail to sprout if they are not sown immediately after taking them from the living plant.
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Old 02-28-2019, 02:35 PM #288
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I have tried it and failed.

But my seeds aren't old. They have an inbreeding problem so most of them fail to sprout if they are not sown immediately after taking them from the living plant.
Hmm alright. My problem is the age of the seeds I'm pretty sure, but I suppose it never hurts to try. Thanks for info!
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Old 03-01-2019, 02:59 AM #289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AgentPothead View Post
If I don't have access to a worm bin, do you guys think worm castings by themselves would help with germination?
Hey bud.
I posted a message on you profile but ill say it again here so others can see.
It is obviously best to make your own fresh worm castings but I know that can be difficult to do for some people. I'm sure you can get a decent amount of seeds to pop if you can get some higher quality worm castings in a bag and its also best to find some that haven't been sitting in a bag for a long time because a lot of the beneficial bacteria has died off and they could harbor antirobic bacteria.
Also a lot of major soil and worm casting manufacturers use fillers and low quality food for worms such as peat moss and paper byproducts that have a low nutrient count.

Anyway the fact of the matter is, try and source the best possible products when trying to pop these old and rare seeds because a lot of the time you only get one shot so make it count.


Good luck man and let us know what you find and how it works for you.


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Old 03-04-2019, 05:44 AM #290
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Mold?

I would disinfect my seeds with dilute hydrogen peroxide.

BTW: Check this long article out.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4740362/
I'm arriving really late to this, but Trout, this is probably the most significant paper I've read in years. It's pretty heavy reading, but the gist of it is that hydrogen peroxide does a hell of a lot more than just sterilize and kill off the nasties we face. It enhances signalling in the seed and creates a 'seed priming' situation that continues afterward in the seedling via 'priming memory'.

I am currently working with seeds from my early days of growing in the late '90s. I will be doing more research to come up with a seed priming technique that in part uses hydrogen peroxide. This paper really is a game changer as far as understanding the mechanisms involved.

Different seeds respond in different ways. I have already worked with a few things that have shown limited success: GA3 works but causes elongation. Finding the sweet spot (under 200ppm in my studies) can be a bit of a pain. After trying other methods this would be a last resort IMO. There are better ways to do it.

Fulvic acid and a single drop or two of Superthrive per gallon can be effective as a pre-soak. I also use an enzymatic sterilizer called Z7. How much fulvic acid can be difficult to translate with all of the different products out there; I'd recommend 10ml of Ful Power per gallon, but must admit that I've never done side-by-side comparisons to be sure that amount is best. (Note: humic acid will not penetrate cell walls the way fulvic acid does, so fulvic is preferred.)

Regarding the worm bin technique. This is well known in the agricultural industry as 'bio-priming'. The microbial activity does more than just defend your seed against nasties; it also signals the seed to activate its metabolism and resume cellular respiration, among many other things. The organisms found in worm bins are indeed also found in bagged earthworm castings, though at lower levels.

Earthworm castings are used in aerated compost teas, and with the right conditions the microherd in teas can easily meet or exceed what is found in worm beds. So those of you who don't want to hassle with worm bins should check out ACT as a great alternative to bins. Just pre-soak the seeds in your ACT.

Beyond that, I would think that truly rare seeds that are unlikely to ever germ should be tissue cultured. I will be diving down that rabbit hole this fall, hopefully, and setting up a small lab. Long-term preservation of strains and hybrids is something I really want to explore.
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