Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Off a dead-end dirt road, near a river, out of town, in the hills and trees
Hey, YK, sorry I failed to reply to a pertinent point in your post yesterday(?); I spent years chasing a neutral ph of 7, as that was what I was initially taught. Then it was 6.8-6.9.
Then last year, in discourse with another member, he referenced the benefits of my working then with a ph of about 6.7, and that was what I had been moving my water to as well, though I had taken for granted that my very hard water was still a 7 to 7.1 out of the well, untreated, and only adjusting ph (Natural Down citric acid) once any goodies were added, and using the citric acid at -VERY -slight rates.
As predicted by others, my ph in the various mixes has risen steadily since planting.
The fact that the alcohol-based reagent (LaMotte's 2221) STILL continues to not ascertain accurately the ph upon mixing the 'dirt', wet OR dry, is more than puzzling, but rather than get stuck in that rut too much more, I'll stick to the mix I've currently adjusted until the next lab analysis tells me otherwise.
Watching the ph rise, I've cut back on the local garden lime to 18 TBSP (1 cup, 2 TBSP) and am holding there, with 1 TBSP Super Sweet, and <5 TBSP of the older dolomite.
Due to lack of time to let the mixes sit this time around, I'm boosting classic 2000 pots after planting, with about 1/3 gallon (~1-1/3 qt.), with a -gallon- of H2O treated with EM-1 at 17 ml, Bio-Ag Ful-Power at about 20 ml, 1-1/4 tsp of Liquid Bone Meal (0-6-0), 2 tsp of (0-0-1) kelp extract (liquid), (as K should be pretty solid, and just using the kelp extract for other purposes), 2 drops Super Thrive 'B' vitamin, and 2 tsp. of 5-1-1 Alaska Fish Emulsion. A modest boost while other shit 'wakes up and gets busy.'
(*Soilless mix is initially gently wetted in the mixer, with another group of items, including, per gallon of H2O, 2 tsp of an ancient stash of GreenLight Root Stimulator, 2 ml Liquid Karma, 2 ml Pro-Tekt, 1-1/2 tsp Gnatrol WDG (I couldn't get the 2.5 gallon jugs of liquid up here any more), 2 drops Super Thrive B vitamin, 1/4-tsp Actinovate (or comparable effective dose of either Myco-Stop or Pre-Stop), and 15 ml of Bio-Ag Ful-Power w/ ~ 15 ml of EM-1. Wetting a total of about 17 U.S. gallons (+/-) of relatively dry aggregate with about 2.5 to 2.6 gallons of the initial 'brew' described.
I've cut WAY back on EWCs last year, after testing 3 brands, of which 2 were yuppie-priced higher end organics, with them testing seriously high in K and Mag. And I haven't had time to follow through on starting my own pyramid-stacked worm buckets under the basement steps; too much to get done, life in disarray at times, etc.
That's the status at the moment. I could post the current list of amendments/additions to the mix as it stands, which is a modified version, after the last testing, but I'll hold off until the next lab results.
Of course, Murphy's Law dictates that as soon as I have this dialed in, one or more components will change re. sourcing, business going bankrupt or closing, etc., and the neighbors a ways away will hear more loud cussing coming from my home again. ;^>)
Whipping up a small, partial (1/3) batch at the moment, to finish off transplanting the girls in the bloom boxes, and I have to say, trying to measure .1 grams of Borax (a full batch of mix calling for .3 grams of Borax) on a triple beam SUCKS re. the degree of inaccuracy. Probably have to break out an old reloading/gun-powder scale and do some grains to partial grams conversions.