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Old 07-11-2019, 08:41 AM #11
Gauss
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Yea, Troutman is right on all points. Easy with the nutes, and do a quick veg. In 2 or 3 gal pots you're looking at a generous MAX of about 6 feet floor to top bud without topping or training, which is pretty manageable. The hard thing is getting the longer flowering sativas the nutrients and amendments it could need before flush time in such a small pot. It's doable though. If you go to five gallons the game really kind of changes and things can get really tall pretty quickly, so you're mostly avoiding that problem as a silver lining.

Soil will take a lot of the work out of it for you, which is a good thing, but you might keep an eye on them so they don't prematurely experience deficiencies. My rule of thumb with sativas is to use as little added nutes as possible to get them along and healthy. Consider adding silica to your soil from the start if you're worried about floppy stalks, it really does help the plant create stiffer stems.
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Old 07-11-2019, 08:55 AM #12
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Originally Posted by Drewsif View Post
Root binding technique? Hippy bullshit. Show some science.

But this is the internet, so transplanting stress is a myth. In the real world though, transplanting is for suckers.
I can't post the link due to TOU but if you Google "growing tropical sativas indoors" and add on UK then append with 420 (hoping that doesn't violate any rules) you'll find a stickied post that outlines the technique along with a few bits I forgot, such as topping once early on.

It's a cross post from the real seed company forums so the technique has been tried out by serious landrace growers and found to be successful.

But then again, more than one way to skin a cat eh? I don't doubt you can do it differently by heavy scrogging, insane amounts of light etc. I've also tried shit like 12/12 from seed then topping and revegging but that doesn't work as well.

I would cross post the thread myself but I'm on a phone and busy right now so if people can't find it I'll get on a laptop later and try to copy it all over.

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Old 07-11-2019, 06:22 PM #13
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Lots of good information here, thanks guys. I was trying to find the various posts that I knew I read the bits of info in. Now it's in one place, I appreciate it immensely.
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Old 07-11-2019, 08:08 PM #14
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Root binding technique? Hippy bullshit. Show some science.
https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/...nalCode=wztf20
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Old 07-12-2019, 08:25 AM #15
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For any sativa I grow indoors where I have a height restriction I always go with a solo sized pot for the first 21 days, then I up-pot to a 1 gallon nursery pot for another 21 days, then I up-pot the plant again to a 3 gallon cloth pot, and then I let the plant settle in for another 14 days before I flip them, but I also top the tops of any sativa I am growing indoors at least twice, because even then I always end up with a 3.5 ft. to 4.5 ft. plant in a "TRUE" 3 gallon cloth pot. I said "true" because to-date I have not found a cloth pot whether they are 3, 4, 5, 7, or 10 gallon cloth pot(s) that will hold its stated volume. They always seem to hold on average of 15% less than their stated volumes' value! Oh yeah... I almost forgot, when I grow any sativa indoors I let the plant grow until 6 nodes fully grow-out, then I top the plant at the 5th node, making a clone out of that top. Then I top the 5th nodes (2) off-branches once they grow out a single node set. That will then keep the plant from overstretching vertically when she gets kicked into flowering, and it also always seems to create a nice even canopy.
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Old 07-13-2019, 09:13 PM #16
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I always go with a solo sized pot for the first 21 days, then I up-pot to a 1 gallon nursery pot for another 21 days, then I up-pot the plant again to a 3 gallon cloth pot, and then I let the plant settle in for another 14 days before I flip them
Great point Iowa Grown. I think my constant repotting is one of the main reasons I've been able to grow and breed sativas indoors so easily. People who go direct from a solo cup to a 3 gallon pot will have much more trouble.
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