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Pump cycles to much

S

samiam

Member
My pump keeps cycling way to often and the motor gets really hot. Old pump kept doing it too after 6 months, so got a different brand and does the same thing 6 months old now.
Eventually it will trip the breaker it gets so bad.
I'm afraid it could catch fire.

Any one else have this problem?
 
A

AvidLerner

Member
I use a cycle timer to control pumps. cycle timers work great and seem not to go out of cycle. pumps stay cool unless one gets clogged. :(
 
S

samiam

Member
It is on a cycle timer. It only runs for 15 mins twice a day.

This is a high pressure 1 1/2 HP pump, it's like the pressure switch cutting out too soon , IDK what the hell is going on with these pumps. I emailed manufacturer days ago and still no reply bunch of f****.
 
S

Speed of green

Active member
I'm guessing this is some sort of drip system?

A bit more info would be helpful.

More details on the system.

You need an accumulator tank, basically its a small water tank with an air bladder inside, when the pump fills the tank to its maximum pressure the pump will cycle off and the air bladder will maintain pressure in the line giving the pump some time to rest.

If you reply with more info on your system then I can help you with sizing an accumulator tank and possibly a different pump depending on your setup. Diaphragm pumps work best for fertigation systems. High pressure low volume.

Hope this helps

Good luck
 
S

samiam

Member

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Q

queequeg152

Active member
Veteran
you might have an accumulator... but just slapping any accumulator on any pump you want is a huge mistake.

your accumulator needs to be sized to MINIMUM keep the pump on cycle and off cycle within pump specs.

most pumps want at least 1 minute off one minute on... or something around there.

if you accumulator does not allow for that duty cycle at a minimum... you have not sized your accumulator appropriatly.

typically a medium to high pressure closed face impeller cent. pump will run around 5-10 gpm per hp.

so even a shitty harbor freight pump will be running around 7.5 gpm assuming the 1.5hp motor is actually 1.5hp... and is matched correctly to the pump head.

so yea you basically need a larger accumulator. 15-30 gallons cost around the same, so i would suggest you go as large as you can here.

you also need to look at your net suction head and discharge pressures... your empty accumulator pressure is typically 1-2psi lower than your pumps cut off pressure.
if its set too high your pump will be working harder than necessary and will reach the cut out pressure before it reaches its design capacity.

dont waste your time waiting for a reply from some harbor freight manufacturer btw. they are rock bottom cost wise...its not reasonable to think they have any service quality or English speaking reps to answer your questions.
 
S

samiam

Member
Like I said it worked fine had no problems for 6 months and ran just like your saying on for a min and off for a min now it constantly cuts off and on.

I ordered another pressure switch will give a update in a few days.
 
S

samiam

Member
New switch did nothing!

So I pulled the pump out and drained it completely, refilled and primed it.

It works again! Must of had air in it.
So every 5 or 6 months just need to drain the pump, problem solved.
 
growingcrazy

growingcrazy

Well-known member
Does the pump have a tube that runs up to the pressure switch, instead of the PS being on one of the lines?

If so check for blockage in that tube.
 
S

samiam

Member
I tore that whole fucker apart, there were no blockages any where as there shouldn't be it pumps from a RO res with a closed lid at all times.
 
S

samiam

Member
Lol now you tell me!

And now that you mentioned it I do see a Schrader valve on one end of the tank could I use a bike pump to add air rather than have to drain it again?
 
OldPhart

OldPhart

Member
samiam said:
Lol now you tell me!

And now that you mentioned it I do see a Schrader valve on one end of the tank could I use a bike pump to add air rather than have to drain it again?
Click to expand...

Well, maybe.

I didn't read through all the google results, but I noticed the top couple talk about what a waterlogged tank is, the different types of tanks, and how to resolve the issue. Basically there are 2 different types of tanks, air-over-water, and bladder. Air-over-water is pretty self explanatory, and yes you can freely pump air into it, it will blow out any unneeded air. A bladder tank should rarely need air, but on some of the cheap/small tanks they may need a little air from time to time. To set the air level in a bladder tank, you need to know the pressure that the pump turns on at. Then you drain the tank; just turn the power off and open a valve, no need to take anything apart. Then you air the tank up to about 2-3 psi below the pressure that the pump turns on at, and you are good to go.

PS
This is out of the owners manual for the link you listed.
The Compression Tank has a rubber bladder inside
that has been pressurized to 23 PSI. Remove
the cover over the air valve (on the tank end opposite
the pipe connection) and periodically monitor this
air valve with an air pressure gauge to ensure
that the rubber bladder maintains the required air
pressure. Air can be added using a bicycle pump.
Click to expand...

Just remember that you need to measure that pressure when the tank is empty, and I would actually run about 27-28 psi; because it is listed as having a 30/50 pressure switch.
 
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