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Best product for russet/broad mites

IngFarmer

Active member
Can you guys advice me on the best product for russet/broad mites? What do you guys think about the product smc? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Advanced-N..._1?ie=UTF8&qid=1552586512&sr=8-1&keywords=smc
I already ordered this product and neem oil...but does anyone knows of something which the mites cannot get used to? something which the mites cannod develop resistant to? I've been using alcohol and water but I see no difference...
I used to have spider mites, but washing the plants every 4 days dealt with them, but now I have the russets...these guys are the definition of the devil...
 

big315smooth

mama tried
Veteran
Can you guys advice me on the best product for russet/broad mites? What do you guys think about the product smc? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Advanced-N..._1?ie=UTF8&qid=1552586512&sr=8-1&keywords=smc
I already ordered this product and neem oil...but does anyone knows of something which the mites cannot get used to? something which the mites cannod develop resistant to? I've been using alcohol and water but I see no difference...
I used to have spider mites, but washing the plants every 4 days dealt with them, but now I have the russets...these guys are the definition of the devil...

watch a few videos of guy had bad russet problem he used predator mites.i did alittle reasearch on them seem to work. safer than pesticide
 

Ibechillin

Masochist Educator
Spraying sulfur is supposed to work well to kill russet mites and is considered organic, mostly recommended to use in veg. Be careful not to spray oils (neem/horticulural) and sulfur in close time frames of eachother as together they are phytotoxic.
 
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IngFarmer

Active member
Spraying sulfur is supposed to work well to kill russet mites and is considered organic, mostly recommended to use in veg. Be careful not to spray oils and sulfur in close time frames of eachother as together they are phytotoxic.
sulfur eh, where to get it? what is the product name?
 

Wendull C.

Active member
Veteran
Avid, forbid 4f, neem as an ovacide, avid again and forbid for good measure. Of course in flower predators are your only option. Check out Kevin jodreys YouTube vids on russets.
 

MJPassion

Observer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Avid, forbid 4f, neem as an ovacide, avid again and forbid for good measure. Of course in flower predators are your only option. Check out Kevin jodreys YouTube vids on russets.


Then a couple gens minimum of clones, after eradication, to ensure you're not ingesting the residuals of those narsty narsty chemicals (Forbid & Avid).
 

Wendull C.

Active member
Veteran
Then a couple gens minimum of clones, after eradication, to ensure you're not ingesting the residuals of those narsty narsty chemicals (Forbid & Avid).

That is just to save prized mothers I refused to lose. Then clone, grow out, clone again before being able to flower any cuts. Getting clean cuts from generous brothers in the mean time.
 

Ibechillin

Masochist Educator
Most hardware and garden/feed stores should have wettable sulfur powder/fungicide sprays, order online if cant find locally.

Hemp Russet Information From Certified Kind (Wa states 3rd party Organic certification program):

Hemp Russet Mite (Aculops cannabicola) is a type of microscopic arthropod that feeds on leaves, new growth, flower buds, and on glandular trichomes of cannabis (Petanovic, 2007). Hemp Russet Mite belongs to the Eriophyidae family of mites which are economically significant crop pests in citrus, apples, grapes, hazelnuts, coconuts, and tomatoes. Symptoms of Hemp Russet Mite damage can be confused with nutrient deficiencies, viruses, and physiological disorders (Van Leeuen, 2010). Hemp Russet Mite has the potential to be a major pest issue for medical and adult-use cannabis production. Hemp Russet Mite infestations have been reported in both indoor and outdoor legalized cannabis production in California, Oregon, Colorado, and Washington. Hemp Russet Mites are closely related and belong to the same genus as the Tomato Russet Mite. Studies of the Tomato Russet Mite show that russet mite populations are suppressed under very cold temperatures or under high temperatures above 86 degrees F (Gerson, 2012). In areas with very cold winters, pest populations decline dramatically. However, most cannabis growers clone plants from mother plants that are held indoors or in greenhouses where temperatures rarely drop below freezing.

Russet mites on mother plants can be passed along to clones. As legalized cannabis production expands, many cannabis producers are acquiring cloned plants from other farms or nurseries and may be inadvertently introducing hemp russet mite onto their farms. If growers don’t understand how to spot Hemp Russet Mite damage and deal with it using natural and organic approved control strategies, they risk severe reduction in crop yield and quality. This article will explain how to recognize the symptoms of Hemp Russet Mite damage and will discuss several options for controlling the Hemp Russet Mite using practices and pest control materials that are approved in organic farming systems.

How to Spot Leaf Damage Caused by Hemp Russet Mite:

Hemp Russet Mite is a manageable pest if outward signs and symptoms of an infestation are recognized early. The mite is difficult to observe, even with a hand lens. You really need a microscope to see this pest. But growers can teach themselves to recognize characteristic leaf damage and flower damage, and respond with appropriate organic pest control strategies. Good farmers can detect subtle changes in plants because they understand the life cycle of the crop and its pests. They know what normal plant growth looks like and can spot abnormalities quickly. The key to successful pest control is frequent scouting and recognizing pest damage.

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Controlling Hemp Russet Mites:

A non-toxic approach to dealing with many mite and insect pests is to introduce their predators into areas with known infestations. Commercially available beneficial predatory mites that have been shown to prey on Russet Mite include Neoseiulus californicus, Ambylseius andersoni, and Amblyseius swirskii. The soil dwelling generalist mite, Stratiolaelaps scimitus feeds on fungus gnat larvae, pupating thrip, pathogenic nematodes, and larval stages of root aphid. This predator mite may help to create a barrier at the soil surface and prevent hemp russet mite and broad mite from crawling up plant stalks to the leaves. Fighting pest mites with predator mites can be especially effective in indoor settings where temperature and humidity can be manipulated to help the released predator mite survive. For example, the beneficial predatory mite Amblyseius swirskii has been shown to be effective against white flies, spider mites, thrips, broad mites and the Tomato Russet Mite, and works best at temperatures between 72-84 degrees F and 70% humidity. Amblyseius andersoni is active and effective at low humidity and high temperatures and is known to feed on Hemp Russet Mite. Both indoor and greenhouse cannabis growers can re-use their soils, and mulch with straw to provide habitat for predator mites. One of the fundamental activities of any organic farmer is to work with natural cycles to build soil. By enhancing habitat for a diverse array of soil organisms, including predatory mites, cannabis growers can grow vigorous, pest free plants. Outdoor farmers can help establish populations of beneficial insects and arthropods by mulching and planting cover crops and insectary crops.

Certified Kind Approved Organic Pesticides:

Biopesticides include pest control materials that are derived from natural ingredients and include plant derived pest products like neem oil and garlic oil as well as pest control materials derived from
bacteria or fungus like Bacillus thuringiensis or Isaria fumosorosea, respectively. Cannabis farmers have had success combating Hemp Russet Mite using a combination of biopesticides including products that have active ingredients of Chromobacterium subtsugae, neem seed oil, Isaria fumosorosea, and citric acid. Growers have also reported success using plant oils and horticultural oils that work by smothering the mite. Mites in the Eriophyidae family are also known to be sensitive to sulfur. Elemental sulfur sprays have been used to control the Eriophyid mites in citrus groves in Florida since at least the 1930’s (Yothers, 1930). Elemental sulfur is an allowed pesticide in organic farming and is used extensively in modern day organic grape and tomato production to control mites and fungal pathogens. Sulfur is effective against Hemp Russet Mite infestations in cannabis. As with any pesticide, sulfur should be used with care, and applications should follow label instructions including the use of personal protective equipment and re-entry intervals. Although the EPA has established that sulfur pesticides are exempt from the establishment of a residue tolerance on food crops, no research has been conducted about sulfur pesticides used on cannabis intended be smoked or concentrated into an extract. Common sense suggests that farmers should avoid applying sulfur to cannabis during the flower stage. Growers should also not use horticultural oil and sulfur together since that combination will damage plant leaves.
Ideally, cannabis farmers will detect Hemp Russet Mite early and choose natural methods for control. Growers must develop robust, overlapping strategies for prevention of pests like Hemp Russet Mite. Building confidence in dealing with difficult pests like Hemp Russet Mite using natural and organic methods takes dedication, time, and practice yet is an essential and extremely valuable part of organic cannabis farming.
 

jonesb

Member
for veg a sulfer burn is the best and cheapest way to go

in flower Regalia, Grandevo, and Venerate IPM is a good way to go now that they are available in quarts.
 

Douglas.Curtis

Autistic Diplomat in Training
Avid, forbid 4f, neem as an ovacide, avid again and forbid for good measure. Of course in flower predators are your only option. Check out Kevin jodreys YouTube vids on russets.
Still can't believe this neurotoxin is still being recommended around cannabis. Every sane state has already excluded it from commercial production use.

Micronized, wettable sulfur. The key is to find the original source and eliminate it. Then break the breeding cycle using repeated sprays every 3 days for 15 days.

Please feel free to use the neem oil on any ornamental plants you have around. Veggies in your garden are also a good use for it. You won't want the oil on your cannabis, it'll burn your plants when you use the sulfur.
 

Wendull C.

Active member
Veteran
It saved my mothers. I have moms older than my nieces and nephews.

I went nuclear on the bastards. Didn't get to flower a single clone for 6 plus months, but it was worth it to me.
 

sshz

Well-known member
Check out PureCrop1..........I fought the Borg for 2 years. I used just about every product on the market and some home made ones too. P.C.1 is safe up to harvest, and will not harm buds or pistols in flowering if used properly. If you go to RIU, there is at least 100 threads on dealing with mites, both good and bad. The PC1 I recommend is a newer product, made a different way than most of the readily available things. Main key is, stay in veg until the problem is eradicated, keep temps cool, and pick off the most damaged leaves that are heavily infiltrated.

https://purecrop1.com/
 

IngFarmer

Active member
Thank you all, so at the end I settled for predator mites, I found a company which produced them 2 hours from me and drove all the way to go and get 300 sachets of predatory mites specifically (AMBLYSEIUS ANDERSONI) which should feed on almost all kinds of mites which infects hemp include spider, russet and broad mites...
I have hanged two sachets on every plants, opened some sachets and sprayed/rained the contents on all the plants, tearing the empty sachets aparts I could see the predatory mites walking on the inside side of the torn sachet paper...so I sticked all those empty sachets torn apart in the middle of every plants...
I even rained the contents of a sachet on my new seedlings just sprouted...I quite exaggerated !!1


So now for those of you who have used predatory mites, my question is my flower room is in its third week, almost 4th, has to do 7 weeks before harvest? Do you think there is going to be some recovery?
Second question, for heavily infested plants in veg, how long do I see some recovery? a week? two weeks? a month?

thanks in advance
 

sshz

Well-known member
Predatory mites only work very early in an infestation........or before there is an actual issue. There might be a slight improvement, but as you'll see- you made a poor choice in the long run.
 

IngFarmer

Active member
Predatory mites only work very early in an infestation........or before there is an actual issue. There might be a slight improvement, but as you'll see- you made a poor choice in the long run.


Like really? why do you say that, you tried predatory mite before and you didn't have good results? Come on please explain...
 

sshz

Well-known member
It is well known that predatory mites are only effective before there is an active infestation. They can stop it early on if there are only minimal mites on the plants. Once there is a real issue, they can not keep up and you will continue to have mites throughout the grow. They may be slightly effective initially, but mites can reproduce faster than the predators can find and eat them. Anyone that says otherwise is just plain wrong and hasn't used them to any extent in the past. I've used them, I've sold them in previous jobs and if you did your homework like I told you in an earlier post- there are 100's of threads on RIU that touch on this subject and they will concur with what I've told you. Don't want to burst your hope, you bought them, so use them. It's a great lesson to learn what works and what doesn't and why.........so to summarize, use them early in a grow to stop any available mites early on. That's when they are best. Once you have a problem, other things are more effective. It took me over 2 years to finally rid them in my garden- trial and error. Ask 100 people, and you'll get 100 different answers. GL
 

IngFarmer

Active member
It is well known that predatory mites are only effective before there is an active infestation. They can stop it early on if there are only minimal mites on the plants. Once there is a real issue, they can not keep up and you will continue to have mites throughout the grow. They may be slightly effective initially, but mites can reproduce faster than the predators can find and eat them. Anyone that says otherwise is just plain wrong and hasn't used them to any extent in the past. I've used them, I've sold them in previous jobs and if you did your homework like I told you in an earlier post- there are 100's of threads on RIU that touch on this subject and they will concur with what I've told you. Don't want to burst your hope, you bought them, so use them. It's a great lesson to learn what works and what doesn't and why.........so to summarize, use them early in a grow to stop any available mites early on. That's when they are best. Once you have a problem, other things are more effective. It took me over 2 years to finally rid them in my garden- trial and error. Ask 100 people, and you'll get 100 different answers. GL


Thank you soo much for your input..don't ever feel like I wanna challenge you or something..far from it..I'm here to learn...what about if I buy another batch of predatory mites every 3 weeks or 4 weeks till I see super clean plants? I get them from the company which raise the predatory mites directly at a price I'd say quite cheap..it will not be a problem to get other batches every 3 weeks or so...I guess this way the spider/russet/broad mites would not be able to keep up..what do you think?


By the way are you a computer programmer? I'm one myself and seeing "ssh"z....any way never mind if you're not..
 

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