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What temp kills mites?

StankyBeamer

StankyBeamer

Professional A$$hole
Obviously a hot environment speeds up a mite populations life cycle, but there has to be a limit to that. Heat treatments of 120ish have been recommended to clear a room after stem nematodes and broad mites, so just for the fuck of it, after bleaching and sweeping and vacuuming my vert flower room, I turned on all the 1000th with the exhaust and a/c switched off and left it for 24 hours, came back to find the hygrometer reading 15%rh and 122*F.
Did I kill mites, or just make them breed fast as fuck? Also could anyone comment on the affect of that level of heat on pm spores?
 
StankyBeamer

StankyBeamer

Professional A$$hole
I had 2 spotted mites show up in the last week of flower on like three plants. None in veg detected so far, and the veg room is routinely treated with kontos, which has an 85-99% fatality rate on affected life stages. But i know that up to 100*F just speeds up the egg laying for two spotteds. I just bleached my entire basement, set off four pyrethrin bombs, and treated with avid and tetrasan about a week apart. The flower room that was heat treated was empty and had been bleached and cleaned as well. I just wanna know these fuckers are gone gone, so I can go back to neem/pyrethrin/soap IPM and don't have to repeat spraying with avid and tetrasan
 
B

Blayz'd

New member
Avinash.miles said:
I've seen studies about 110 degree hot water bath killing broad mites....
Click to expand...

With this treatment I think it dissolves the eggs. I'm not sure it has the same effect by heating the room up. I think maybe it killed the mites but the eggs may still be viable. I'm not sure though.

If I have mites in the flower room I just drench the place in some kind of mite treatment. I think the treatments you've done should cut it. Although I'd be thinking of preventing it happening again. Being careful of bringing them in from outside. Keeping the areas clean of debris and dead leaves etc. If the space is clean and enough care is taken to prevent them you shouldn't get them. I only get them off dirty clones and plants which have been outside.
 
StankyBeamer

StankyBeamer

Professional A$$hole
Blayz'd said:
With this treatment I think it dissolves the eggs. I'm not sure it has the same effect by heating the room up. I think maybe it killed the mites but the eggs may still be viable. I'm not sure though.

If I have mites in the flower room I just drench the place in some kind of mite treatment. I think the treatments you've done should cut it. Although I'd be thinking of preventing it happening again. Being careful of bringing them in from outside. Keeping the areas clean of debris and dead leaves etc. If the space is clean and enough care is taken to prevent them you shouldn't get them. I only get them off dirty clones and plants which have been outside.
Click to expand...
My gf was taking care of my rooms while I was on vacation, and didn't take my "shower and change clothes ALWAYS before going downstairs" rule seriously until I came home and spotted a leaf with eggs on it right by the flower room door. Luckily my flower room has automated feeding and the res and dehumidifier can both be emptied without entering the room, so I isolated and have had a clean veg for a month or so waiting for the flower room to be empty. I should be good now, I've got three different MOA'S of miticides in roto, and I soak em good when I spray em
 
Mikell

Mikell

Dipshit Know-Nothing
ICMag Donor
Veteran
circadian clock said:
not sure what type of mite this works on. but it has something to do with the humidity. either really high or really low.
Click to expand...

Very high, preferably as close to 100% as possible.

I've no idea how well or not this works on standard spider mites. I'll dick around searching on the way to work ;)
 
chronosync

chronosync

Well-stoned member
hot hot water in a pressure washer was used to solve a bedbug infestation i had to cope with once, that and throwing away half of everything i own. the stuff i kept was packed in a van during some HOT summer days. ive read that 120 deg for 90 min will kill them all. dont know about mites, but if that treatment worked no those bugs from hell, then it should work. bedbugs are IMPOSSIBLE. i wouldnt wish that experience on anyone.

good luck with your grow!
 
Mikell

Mikell

Dipshit Know-Nothing
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I use to know an exterminator who claimed anyone that didn't use heat was milking the customer for multiple visits. He was a very smart individual in general and I was reminded of the comment years later reading about early twentieth century BM control methods.

Random thoughts.
 
I

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
I use this in early flower. Before buds show up. It is non toxic and will get on everything. If the mite leaves the plant and goes threw it it will die. As long as it is dry it will kill. It does not degrade like poisons.



Cant say that it will kill everything. I have used it on fleas and killed them in the house and yard as well as on the dog. just dont breath it when you use it as it is silica dust. But you can eat it I have.
 
B

blotter

New member
semi-related, is it viable to do heat treatments for broad mites with predators in the room? Any ideas on this? Will ladybugs or swirskii hold up to 120F for an hour?
 
Mikell

Mikell

Dipshit Know-Nothing
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Poked around a bit but couldn't find anything significant. At around 37C (98 American) swirskii health and reproduction begin to deteriorate. I can't imagine they would survive a proper high RH heat treatment.

Some predators are more suited to heat, persimilis and longpipes to name two, but have little or no practical effect on BM. Cucumeris has tolerance similar to swirskii.



Better to do it before or reintroduce after (killing your best grownies).
 
R

redlaser

Active member
Veteran
Almost all hot air treatments listed by various sources are for broad mites, I've only seen one reference for two spotted mites. 111 to 114 degrees for twenty four hours is listed as effective according to New Zealand Journal of Crop and Horticulture Science.
Seems odd to only find a single study of heat control of spider mites though.

Between 77-95 degrees they can complete a life cycle in 7-16 days, so three or four treatments roughly a week apart would be needed.

With the hot air treatment there is at least one degree lost with every foot of height as you go down, so several thermometers at different heights are ideal to verify temps.
 
Naut.s.33

Naut.s.33

Member
I just had to deal with the broad borgs. I went with four modes of attack. Heat treating (120 for an hour), og bio war ( fungal spray the grows on plant, infects bug and grows inside and kill. Don't have the list of actives on hand.) Guardian (essential oil spray.) And swirskiis on monday. Only been having problems actually finding them to confirm death. Can confirm that heat treating works or at least helps. Last year I got rid of them with just heat treating and essential oils. Good luck man.
 
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