It's one of the most concentrated liquid plant foods on the market so when you factor in the fact that you don't use very much per gallon DG winds up being one of the cheapest liquid plant foods available to us.
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Incredible Results: Dyna Gro recipe
- Thread starter cannabomber
- Start date
It's one of the most concentrated liquid plant foods on the market so when you factor in the fact that you don't use very much per gallon DG winds up being one of the cheapest liquid plant foods available to us.
SamsonsRiddle
Active member
The other thing to keep in mind is you have everything you need to grow a great plant in one bottle. I went back to coco for a bit and fell for the "you need calmag to grow in coco" myth (again) and was having some terrible looking things going on. I tried dropping the calmag during trial and error and everything is back to green and luscious.
One more thing: I see all these crazy PPM/EC numbers and can't seem to understand how they can get so high. With dynagro 200ppm/.4ec of grow/foliage pro during veg is plenty and keeps everything happy. During flower, you may reach up to .6ec, but not very often. This makes a bottle go a long way.
Amoeba
Active member
I've been using this with a few supps for about 6 or 7 runs back to back over here, this shit is great. I try to not go over 1000 ppm in flower some strains like a little more most though, a little less. Running the full line up and still dialing it in slowly but surely.
Not sure if it is the lower PPMs, Dyna Gro or the cuts but I've gotten consistent compliments on the smell of my end product I think it's the first two haha!
I really want a vinyl DG banner for my room! I've asked my local hydro shop but you know how that goes.
Not sure if it is the lower PPMs, Dyna Gro or the cuts but I've gotten consistent compliments on the smell of my end product I think it's the first two haha!
I really want a vinyl DG banner for my room! I've asked my local hydro shop but you know how that goes.
SamsonsRiddle
Active member
Hey everyone, I've got a question (again).
When you switch to the bloom nutrients, which we know is lower ec/ppms than the foliage pro, do you lower the amount of ec/ppms? I'm not asking based on the place you are in the flowering cycle, but in their chart it shows going from let's say 5ml/gallon of grow to 5ml/gallon of bloom. Doing this would give you a lower ec/ppms, but still the same volume of liquid to be added to your water.
I have been going by ec/ppm, but just recently switched to bloom (don't worry, i know you need a little more n than bloom will supplement) and don't want to burn my roots.
When you switch to the bloom nutrients, which we know is lower ec/ppms than the foliage pro, do you lower the amount of ec/ppms? I'm not asking based on the place you are in the flowering cycle, but in their chart it shows going from let's say 5ml/gallon of grow to 5ml/gallon of bloom. Doing this would give you a lower ec/ppms, but still the same volume of liquid to be added to your water.
I have been going by ec/ppm, but just recently switched to bloom (don't worry, i know you need a little more n than bloom will supplement) and don't want to burn my roots.
Samson Ill try to answer your question the best I can
In early flowering, I tend to go lean on the N to induce flowering and speed up the transition into full bloom. Once were at that full bloom stage, I increase the N again as your plant will quickly cannibalize fan leaves in this stage of flowering if you supply to little N. Its good you're looking to include N in flower, but wait till after the transition into full bloom.
I used to always give a bit of a N spike at early flowering, to stave off early flowering yellowing, but IME experiences it usually worked against me. Delayed flowering, buds taking on a more sativa expression were the results.
Now Im willing to deal with a little bit of lower leaf yellowing if it means the plants kick into flowering as normal. I can always increase N levels if necessary. Its a fine balance you'll walk, but with enough experience and monitoring your plants as you feed them will give you the info you need.
In early flowering, I tend to go lean on the N to induce flowering and speed up the transition into full bloom. Once were at that full bloom stage, I increase the N again as your plant will quickly cannibalize fan leaves in this stage of flowering if you supply to little N. Its good you're looking to include N in flower, but wait till after the transition into full bloom.
I used to always give a bit of a N spike at early flowering, to stave off early flowering yellowing, but IME experiences it usually worked against me. Delayed flowering, buds taking on a more sativa expression were the results.
Now Im willing to deal with a little bit of lower leaf yellowing if it means the plants kick into flowering as normal. I can always increase N levels if necessary. Its a fine balance you'll walk, but with enough experience and monitoring your plants as you feed them will give you the info you need.
SamsonsRiddle
Active member
Very good information here. Unfortunately, I am asking specifically about the ec contribution of the different base nutes.
If you check out dyna gro's chart, you will see they switch from grow (FP) to bloom at week one. You clearly laid out that that isn't the best option, nor would it be the greatest idea if you want to have some green leaves by week 6.
My question is much more simple. They go from grow (FP) to bloom on their feeding chart, but grow and bloom have different ec contributions. I go by ec/ppm and not ml/gal and would like to know if i should adjust the amount of ec i add based on the lower ec in bloom when added to water.
here's an example - i give my plants .6 ec grow and i'm on week 5 of bloom. i see my whole plant is green and want to start using some of their flower formula. However, i takes more volume of bloom to produce .6 ec than it does to make water .6 ec with grow. Do I adjust my ec of bloom down to compensate for the difference in ec contribution compared to grow? Or do i just measure it the same at .6 ec, even though I have to use more ml's to get to .6 ec?
Do that in bold. If you want to simplify it, just use the Grow half. I dont use the Bloom at all in my garden. Its just Grow from beginning to end for me. Grow will keep your plants healthy and green in flower and you'll still get nice stinky frosty buds without using the Bloom.
I use Grow in flower at between 300ppm-450ppm(typically around 350ppm), but I also use a small amount of osmocote in the media to provide supplemental feed too.
Old Toker
Well-known member
You use Osmocote in coco?
You use Osmocote in coco?
Im a SPM kinda guy. I use Promix HP w/Biofungicide amended with Calcined DE. I would imagine you could use Osmocote in Coco though, but not alot of growers around here seem to use Osmocote or similar products. I swear by it myself.
This has been quite the informative thread, and the knowledge here is quite impressive.
There are literally THOUSANDS of sites, threads, and forums on these topics, and throughout months of reading, I somehow ended up her the last two days.
While I understand some of the terminology, some is still confusing as I am new.
By no means do I mean to hijack the thread, it is however current. If anyone would feel like taking the time to answer a few questions, I would truly be grateful.
So as long as no one minds, here goes. (Moderators, if this is not the place, please delete or move)
I am trying to figure out DWC for dummies, and am on my 2nd rotation. I originally started with just a few suggestions from my local store, and that what is initially led to me research the "Dyna" line. I am running one single plant, in a 4x4 under a Philips 315, and have been reading about the Dyna line. I initially purchased the 3 part GH line, but at the suggestion of my local store, I purchased something "easier" to use. So I now have "grow, and Bloom" and have been told to keep my ppm at about 500 for veg, and no higher than 700 for bloom. I have been told to switch to bloom once I change to 12's after about a month or so.
I have also been instructed to buy UC RootS, H202, and Kool bloom, and simply read the instructions on the bottle.
I see some people here are talking about a feeding schedule that has to do with a decimal number, i don't really understand what that is.
I tried this once before, and had a root issue very early on, so I have been reading for months, and am going to try it again.
SO if anyone has it in them to share a little knowledge to help a newbie, it would be greatly appreciated.
SO Dyna line grow and bloom.
4x4 tent.
fan and filter
one plant.
Philips 315
plenty of air, possibly too much, still reading.
5 gal DWC bucket
tent stays at 74.
water temp stays at 68 ( checked all week long)
Keeping ppm at 500 with grow now
ph 6 +or- .3
usually check ppm and ph once every other day,
and have been told to change water once a week.
Literally I'm asking for help for dummies,
But I will pay attention, and order whatever needed to succeed.
I just want to learn.
There are literally THOUSANDS of sites, threads, and forums on these topics, and throughout months of reading, I somehow ended up her the last two days.
While I understand some of the terminology, some is still confusing as I am new.
By no means do I mean to hijack the thread, it is however current. If anyone would feel like taking the time to answer a few questions, I would truly be grateful.
So as long as no one minds, here goes. (Moderators, if this is not the place, please delete or move)
I am trying to figure out DWC for dummies, and am on my 2nd rotation. I originally started with just a few suggestions from my local store, and that what is initially led to me research the "Dyna" line. I am running one single plant, in a 4x4 under a Philips 315, and have been reading about the Dyna line. I initially purchased the 3 part GH line, but at the suggestion of my local store, I purchased something "easier" to use. So I now have "grow, and Bloom" and have been told to keep my ppm at about 500 for veg, and no higher than 700 for bloom. I have been told to switch to bloom once I change to 12's after about a month or so.
I have also been instructed to buy UC RootS, H202, and Kool bloom, and simply read the instructions on the bottle.
I see some people here are talking about a feeding schedule that has to do with a decimal number, i don't really understand what that is.
I tried this once before, and had a root issue very early on, so I have been reading for months, and am going to try it again.
SO if anyone has it in them to share a little knowledge to help a newbie, it would be greatly appreciated.
SO Dyna line grow and bloom.
4x4 tent.
fan and filter
one plant.
Philips 315
plenty of air, possibly too much, still reading.
5 gal DWC bucket
tent stays at 74.
water temp stays at 68 ( checked all week long)
Keeping ppm at 500 with grow now
ph 6 +or- .3
usually check ppm and ph once every other day,
and have been told to change water once a week.
Literally I'm asking for help for dummies,
But I will pay attention, and order whatever needed to succeed.
I just want to learn.
Amoeba
Active member
Just keep the inputs low, let the plants tell you what they want. Underfeeding is easier to manage than overfeeding.
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SamsonsRiddle
Active member
the decimal we spoke of is "ec" (electrical conductivity?) and it is a measure similar to ppms. To get your ppms on your little meter, it converts the ec of a solution and multiplies it to the amount that your meter is programmed for. Hanna's are usually a .5 conversion and there are also .7's out there, too. It's a good little study that won't take long to learn, search for ec to ppm conversion charts.
DWC is cool being able to flip up the lid and check out your roots. The growth rate can be explosive if you have your environment dialed in. A humidity meter would be a good addition, which well let you know the RH (Relative Humidity) allowing you to keep an eye on how much your plants are able to transpire.
One thing you would like to add to that group of ingredients would be Dyna Gro's Protekt - a silicon supplement. This stuff will bring up your ph, but you need to add it first so it doesn't cloud up your solution. A little bit goes a long way, and you should only run a couple ml's/gallon. It will make your plant stalks stronger, which allows you more flexibility when bending and cropping them.
One last tip: When you hit about week 4 of 12/12, don't just dump the grow for bloom. You are going to need some grow in that bloom, but you don't need a bunch. Just enough to keep them green.
I've gotten lots of help from the many people who have contributed to this thread so don't be shy or afraid to ask.
