DIY Organic Liquid Nutrients

I'm considering using chook poo based or other type or organic fertilizer to make liquid a single part nutrient for soil.


Are there any potential catches or considerations one should consider when attempting this?


I have a mental stumbling block when It comes to making a single part nutrient in that most of the hydro ones , even organic ones come in two parts. I'm presuming this is to avoid some kind of chemical reaction which may cause lockouts?


Anyone care to share their knowledge and experience?

This is just an example of a more complete pellet based organic fertilizer for consideration.





Nitrogen (N) 3.5%
Phosphorous (P) 1.85%
Potassium (K) 4.0%
Calcium (Ca) 5.15%
Magnesium (Mg) 0.68%
Sulphur (S) 2.30%
Iron (Fe) 7500mg/kg
Manganese (Mn) 490mg/kg
Copper (Cu) 85mg/kg
Zinc (Zn) 500mg/kg
Boron (B) 24mg/kg
Molybdenum (Mo) 8mg/kg



As well as fully composted poultry manure,Super Growth contains:
Natural Rock Phosphate

a colloidal form of phosphorous & rich source of plant available calcium
Sulphate of Potash

high in potassium and important for pest resistance, improved colour & fruit flavour
Rock Minerals

for a wide range of slow release trace elements & minerals for increased soil health
Zeolite

important for the supply of nutrients throughout the growth cycle
Fish Meal

slow release nitrogen and phosphorous for strong, healthy growth
Blood and Bone

for strong root & shoot growth
Also includes Natural Gypsum, Seaweed Extract and Worm Castings

Just doing some digging in the meantime





Quote from https://futureharvest.com/blogs/articles/nutrient-lockout-for-dummies-part-1



"Let’s suppose that a grower wants to produce a flowering or fruiting crop, most realize that phosphorus is a very important nutrient in this part of the life cycle. They go down to the local garden center and see a wide array of fertilizers, some are powders, some are liquids, some are natural and some are manmade. Our grower decides to go with bone meal since it’s around 10% Phosphorus with additional Nitrogen and Calcium. Is this the best choice? The answer isn’t very strait forward. The nutrients contained in this type of fertilizer are insoluble in water and for nutrients to be available to the plant they have to be in a form that will dissolve, otherwise they won’t be absorbed into the roots. While these nutrients are not available immediately that doesn’t mean that they never will be, they have to be broken down by soil microbes before they can be absorbed by the plants and that process could take years depending on soil conditions.
Phosphorus is among the most important nutrients and it is also one of the most problematic as far as lockouts go. It readily reacts with such common ions as Calcium, Magnesium, Iron, and Aluminum to form insoluble salts. That means that while a soluble form could be given to the crop it doesn’t mean that it will be available to the plant during the whole life cycle, as it will readily react with the aforementioned ions. The way to get around this is to use a coated slow release product or to give multiple smaller doses throughout the life cycle.


The most frustrating nutrient for many of us who formulate fertilizer products is Iron. There are several soluble forms, the sulfate form is the cheapest and is permitted in organic agriculture. Here again it’s very unstable and converts to an insoluble form very quickly after application. The chelated forms EDTA, DTPA, and EDDTA are far superior to the sulfate forms but also have limitations. The EDTA form is the most common since it’s the cheapest but is best at lower pH levels. DTPA and EDDTA are better for wider ranges of pH levels but are quite expensive. For hydroponic growers, most have seen red brown material on the bottoms of their reservoirs. This is literally rust, as Iron will react with oxygen from the atmosphere and fall out. This is one of the reasons why changing nutrient solutions regularly is so important. "

-BRR- said:

I'm considering using chook poo based or other type or organic fertilizer to make liquid a single part nutrient for soil.

Are there any potential catches or considerations one should consider when attempting this?

Click to expand...

Chook means chicken or some small bird who makes those delicious brown turds topped with the white snow-caps ?

I use those but not only those.

When I buy chicken manure it's usually 2-3-2 or something like that.

I figure it has medium amounts of NP & K.

I try to have at least 2 sources of N & K = Urine + Wood Ash.

also 2 sources of P for plants in flowering = Seabird Guano or Bat Guano 1-11-1, something like that.


Unless you're going to have the chook manure analyzed, it's hard to know how much Ca, Mg, and Sulfur it is adding.

I like having at least 2 sources of the primaries (NPK) because it helps to "spread it out" and (I think) makes the micro-flora & micro-fauna happy (and it's partially THEIR excretions that the plants consume.)


Only "BEWARE" is, it's a GERM factory. I often have cuts & scratches on my hands so if I'm working outside I will get exposed to bacteria that is sometimes called "flesh eating bacteria".

So if you're starting maybe wear gloves.

Couple things to consider....

1. Compost it first.
2. Most growers overapply P for cannabis.

Take a look at Korean natural farming they make all kinds of fermented liquid concoctions as well as fish amino acid.

I use primarily dry amendments but I’m hoping to do some experimenting with KNF in the new year. Word is that KNF weed is extra terpy when done right!!

Hygienisation and Nutrient Conservation of Sewage Sludge or Cattle Manure by Lactic Acid Fermentation

https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0118230

insect frass aerated in water for 24 hours, add P microbes and banana for flower boost

Bump for all the DIYers