What's new
  • Please note members who been with us for more than 10 years have been upgraded to "Veteran" status and will receive exclusive benefits. If you wish to find out more about this or support IcMag and get same benefits, check this thread here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

The IC Organic Growers Community Thread.

B

BugJar

MM I would suspect it would work although I would look what food sprouters have to say about it. my experience really lies with the malted variety.

seed is cheap so I would experiment sprouting 2 batches of different chit/sprout length and see if there are any measurable effects.

Some research into the enzymes themselves might give you a better idea on when they would be in the greatest numbers in their own life cycle.

please let us know if you see some data of use!
 

DARC MIND

Member
Veteran
yea
i need to get on the sprout thing
ive used bean soak,not really sprout,with pretty good success for the lngest

once coot starter chirping on the sprouts i was pretty confident he was on to something,guy usually is..he threw up many pdfs,variety of studies and reads on enzymes before the pwoers that be,began stomping on toes

i will be giving the coconut water a run
just used some with left over bubble hash water,humisolv & blended aloe,newZ spinach & comfrey stalks as a drench

promise i wont jump & down from praying leaves lol
as tap water from the hose has the same effect on all my OD plants
 

Seaf0ur

Pagan Extremist
Veteran
Bugjar; What is your take on what I outlined, using fresh sprouts (fairly long) in aerated water. Do you think there would be the plant/grain/sprout enzymes present or just the ones produced by the bacteria, fungi/yeast present?

I'm going to try it out. At least my ducks will really enjoy the sprouts.

Is there a specific length to sprout? rather... is there a point where its less beneficial? ie: the sprouts start turning green....

I went this far..

IMG_20130617_155237.jpg
 

RicoT

Active member
I think it was discussed that the ideal length of the root is to be equal to the seed when starting to soak.. That was the theory for Version1 anyway..
Version2 I think, relied on the sprouts gaining 100% of their weight before soaking(ie. 50g sprouts=100g before the soak begins)
I'm sure someone more knowledgable will chime in soon:tiphat:
 

VerdantGreen

Genetics Facilitator
Boutique Breeder
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
how about steeping the diastatic malt flour in warmer water? what kind of temp might help and for how long?
the flour does seem to 'dissolve' up to a point in the water. you get like a very weel wallpaper paste type look to the water....

pre-98 bubba
picture.php

VG
 

bigshrimp

Active member
Veteran
Just wanted to say that most seeds contain compounds to prevent germination that are leached out in the initial soak. The first soak water should not be used on plants, and should be change.d for best germination.

In very much liking this discussion on sprout teas, keep it up all!

Edit: i sprout until they start turning green then use
 

John Deere

Active member
Veteran
Here's v2.0 copied from my notes:


Sprouted Seed Tea v2.0

Jon Stika of Brew Your Own Magazine describes malt as "barley that has been sprouted to the point where enzymes are produced that will convert its starchy interior to sugar." After the grain has been malted, the sugar is fermented by yeast to make beer.

This is an accurate overview of an article he wrote for those who want to make their own malt and here's the Reader's Digest version:

Weigh out 2 oz. of Barley seed and remove any foreign matter by the seeds into a large jar and fill it half-way with water and agitate to wash the barley. Pour off loose husks & dirt that float to the top. Drain in a colander. Repeat until everything has been removed.

Soak the seeds in water for 8 - 10 hours. Drain the seeds and weigh after completely draining the water off. Assuming you started with 56 grams, you want to hit a minimum of 84 grams at the end of these processes.

Let the Barley rest for 8 - 10 hours and then soak for another 8 hours, drain and weigh. Repeat if necessary but that's not too unlikely.

Take a piece of cloth and you want to use something as 'raw' as possible like hemp cloth, organic cotton, linen, canvas, flax, etc. - just check with a large fabric store. If you buy a piece that is a square it probably helps or doesn't.

Wet your cloth, wring out and fold it 2 times. During the rest cycles this is where you want to let the seeds rest. You want moisture surrounding the seeds but not water.

Once you hit 84+ grams, spread your seeds again in the middle of this folded piece of fabric, place that in a brown paper bag - 55F - 65F ambient temperatures will move this along quickly.

When the shoots inside the seed have grown the length of the seed you're done. You're not growing sprouts but rather activating the enzymes and the compounds in the endosperm as described in the post above.

Take these seeds and put them in a blender and some water and get it to a puree to the extent possible. Using 56 grams to start will give enough puree to make 5 gallons of tea.

Water your plants with this diluted tea. This will give you far, far more enzymes than the straight sprouting method. One thing about beer brewers is that they live & die by enzyme levels extracted from seeds and this article is cited on several home brew forums.

This is definitely the way to use Barley and other seeds...
 

xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
ICMag Donor
Veteran
@ some point i should go through and do that precise to the instruction

FTMP i have just sprouted & rinsed for ver 1 / sprouted, added water & blended for ver 2

FYI that initial 8-10 hour soak is the water i discard

if there is something wrong in those examples; i do wish someone would point it out
 
B

BugJar

Here's v2.0 copied from my notes:


Sprouted Seed Tea v2.0

This is definitely the way to use Barley and other seeds...

that sounds perfect

the weighing part seems crazy we just do everything by volume

I think if I was going to use the flour I would steep it in hot water.

I remember coot being really into the idea of those lower temp enzymes and since we can assume that it has been malted to around 120f the most prevalent enzymes at that temp range are protease and cellulase.

their functions is cleaving protein there are some other ones but I am not super familiar with their functions.

beta amylase from around 130-150 ish
and alpha amylase from 150-160f.
their functions are to cleave starch into sugar in slightly different ways

These are easily the most potent enzymes in barley and beta has the ability to nearly convert all the starch in the barley to maltose in 15-30 minutes in its temperature range. Maltose is the most simple form of sugar associated with barley alpha creates a more complex sugar.
Fungi and bacteria go BUCK WILD when exposed to it.
it is such a hospitable environment that even lactobacillus has and easy time quickly digesting it nearly completely even in fairly aerobic conditions.

I would suggest any one serious about experimenting with malt barley to use those temps ranges as a guide and see what sees the best results.

I really have no idea but it seems interesting.

figuring out the ideal dilution and extraction rates seems like by far the trickiest part.

I would dilute and use IMMEDIATELY, like within minutes immediately.

worth mentioning that some of these enzymes are available in shelf/temp stable conditions online for homebrewing. as well as pure cultures of lactobacillus and other goodies that may have some contribution to diversity
 

VerdantGreen

Genetics Facilitator
Boutique Breeder
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
sharksbreath from one of my smaller cabs, 100w LED, 18x12" screen
picture.php
 

xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
ICMag Donor
Veteran
is that this LED VG? thats some pretty amazing production for 100W LED right there

i might have to try SCROG'n
 

VerdantGreen

Genetics Facilitator
Boutique Breeder
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
thats the one xmo, to be fair the lamp is slightly overpowered for a 1 x 1.5' cab, i usually use about 50 watts/ square foot - but it makes for chunky buds.

VG
 

vStagger Leev

Cannaseur
Veteran
Diesel Wreck.... the great outdoors

Diesel Wreck.... the great outdoors



These 2 ladies are in organic beds with some bone/blood meal, sea kelp, EWC, compost, bird/bat guano's, and being fed BioBizz FishMix and BioGrow... :tree: Much love friends, SL
 

warthog

Member
Looking good stagger! would love to see ya really tackle the outdoors, but we are all lucky enough to at least have a modest stagger outdoor show.. right one bro:smoke:
 

vStagger Leev

Cannaseur
Veteran
Looking good stagger! would love to see ya really tackle the outdoors, but we are all lucky enough to at least have a modest stagger outdoor show.. right one bro:smoke:


Thanks man, i'd really enjoy doing full on outdoors. My lady and I often talk about moving out to the woods and running 18 trees for the summer and shutting down the indoor. Then once OD was done, fire back up that indooooor :rasta: much love warthog! SL :tiphat:
 

VerdantGreen

Genetics Facilitator
Boutique Breeder
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Q: what do you do with a plant that gets too tall for your grow space? in this case a male C4D
A: Make it shorter :D
picture.php
 

vStagger Leev

Cannaseur
Veteran
Day 6 12/12

Day 6 12/12

New room with some new ladies!! I picked up a bottle of the BioBizz Alg-A-Mic yesterday, the stuff smells like straight up sea kelp/ low tide! It's got lot's of trace minerals, vitamins, and amino's in it. I've only heard good things so I decided to add it to my regimen. They got there 1st dose of it last night, and this morning the ladies seemed nothing but stoked! Much love friends, SL

 
Are you a bio buzz rep or just a great fan? Just wondering. Also have you used kelp meal in a side by side with the extract? Again wondering where this enthusiasm is coming from. Bottled fertilizer never tickled me that way
 
Top