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Boron deficiency? Overdose of some sort?

NoLoveDeepWeeb

New member
I recently flushed my plants because they had way too many nutrients in the soil, both of my plants took very well to the flush and started growing heath leafs again. I then added more FFOF to fill out the pots they were in. They seemed to still be growing once I added the extra soil, but after my first watering of a root drench, and a bacillus root inoculant one of my Lemon Diesel and Girl Scout Cookie hybrid started showing the same spots as before. I'm guessing that when I watered last the plant got too much of some nutrient from the soil and is now locked up again :-(. Any ideas what I'm dealing with here?

BTW the temp is right around 77-80° F most of the time, 43% RH, growing indoor.
 

Speed of green

Active member
The top of the medium looks pretty dry, letting it dry all the way can cause PH issues.

Since the issue corrected itself before we can assume that the proper amount of nutrients are available in the soil, the plant may be having a hard time uptaking specific nutrients due to PH issues.

I would check your Ph - Soil & water, and make sure you arent letting the medium dry completely.
 

prune

Active member
Veteran
Your nodes have propagated too close together and are flooding their system with hormones trying to gain apical dominance over one another. Cut back all the nodes for two inches beneath the apical shoot of the main branches and every other node below that point. Sometimes the nodes are right on top of each other at the tip and you will need to trim a few more a day after the first culling.
Once the hormone levels drop you will begin to get normal leaves and more vigorous growth and can initiate flowering, however try and get as much as that deformed growth removed before budding as it just leaks bad stuff...

I see this a lot and no one ever seems to recognize the issue. When clones stall and spend a long time under low light you see this frequently, the nodes stack instead of elongate and the resulting hormonal disarray leads to weak structure and limited growth and vigor.

No matter what the cause, the quickest cure is always in reducing the nodes to the point where the apical tip can assume control and correctly regulate normal growth patterns.
 
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NoLoveDeepWeeb

New member
Mikell, I'm watering on average every third day. They have just been transplanted with lots of soil added. My other plant is doing just fine btw, different strand.

Scott64A, I appreciate your insight and info about your experience. I have another plant right next to the troubled one and it is not having any problem's. The one that's currently healthy was the one that had the larger gnat issue. I have some of that yellow sticky tape hanging and have not seen anymore gnats for a few weeks. So I don't think gnats are the problem right now but I will take the info you shared and apply it next time those buggers pop up. Thanks man.

Speed of green, I will be checking my PH lv as soon as I get my soil tester on Tue. The soil is currently good and moist. I'll make sure not to dry out my soil again thanks.

Prune, is the apical shoot the top node? Sorry I'm new to this but even with the help of google I can't quite figure it out. So I should cut off the lower weaker nodes that are incapable of getting enough sunlight to properly grow that way the branches that actually are positioned correctly can get the optimal nutrients without the hopeless ones utilizing resources?
 

mushroombrew

Active member
Veteran
Your nodes have propagated too close together and are flooding their system with hormones trying to gain apical dominance over one another. Cut back all the nodes for two inches beneath the apical shoot of the main branches and every other node below that point. Sometimes the nodes are right on top of each other at the tip and you will need to trim a few more a day after the first culling.
Once the hormone levels drop you will begin to get normal leaves and more vigorous growth and can initiate flowering, however try and get as much as that deformed growth removed before budding as it just leaks bad stuff...

I see this a lot and no one ever seems to recognize the issue. When clones stall and spend a long time under low light you see this frequently, the nodes stack instead of elongate and the resulting hormonal disarray leads to weak structure and limited growth and vigor.

No matter what the cause, the quickest cure is always in reducing the nodes to the point where the apical tip can assume control and correctly regulate normal growth patterns.

Do you mean pruning off the lower growth? You explained it in a really round about way bro.
I wouldn't prune until some healthy growth appears. Despite the tight nodes those plants need to recover some beforehand in my opinion.
 

NoLoveDeepWeeb

New member
Once I harvest my 2 ladies I plan on getting some seeds so I can control them from start to finish. The ones I have now got pretty stunted at first due to some serious altitude and climate change. Mainlining seems like a very organized and effective way to grow especially for a closet grow like I have.

When I do snip some nodes off which ones should I go for? The lower ones that can't get proper lighting?

In short how will I adjust ph once I figure out the exact ph of the soil? I read some stuff that said adding different types of soil is the way to go, but I already have the plants pots topped off with soil so would I just put in water with the pH a little more up or down to correct the ph?
 
S

Scott64a

Really, pH should be a consideration before getting seedlings going in the soil, but it can be corrected.

Shoot go to WalMart and get some pH up and pH down. They're cheap and for your needs they will last a long time if you store them out of sunlight in a cool place with your other ferts.
Here's a tutorial I found. Pretty easy.

http://www.growweedeasy.com/ph
 

NoLoveDeepWeeb

New member
I'm aware how important PH is and I already have some PH up and PH down. The soil I used was balanced FFOF. So to fix my issue I could just slightly make the water above or below 7.0 to move the soils ph to a 7.0?
 
S

Scott64a

I'm aware how important PH is and I already have some PH up and PH down. The soil I used was balanced FFOF. So to fix my issue I could just slightly make the water above or below 7.0 to move the soils ph to a 7.0?

This is something people love to debate, but the majority of sources I've ever read all call for 6.0-6.5.

If you're neutral, maybe get it slightly acidic?
Cannabis is a slightly acid loving plant. Like 6.5-6.8.
 
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NoLoveDeepWeeb

New member
That could have added to my problem slightly I added water that was basically right at 7.0 for over 2 months now. The link is not working for me, try again?

I will keep you all posted on the progress of the babies. I'll post pics of the healthier plant tomorrow.
 
S

Scott64a

Bah, this forum uses old-ass formatting and also doesn't allow certain links.

Do a search for "mangled deformed and twisted leaves thc farmer" and you'll find it.
 
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