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Old 10-29-2014, 10:44 PM #11
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Originally Posted by HatchBrew View Post
Do you perpetually flower or just load it up all at once?

Where do you veg? keep moms?

have you ever made any glycerin tinctures? just strained my first batch, it's great for body relief.

I'm just interested, not trying to critique, just a small grower as well, that tries to only spend money on electricity and occasional kelp meal or fish juice bucket.
It is a small perpetual system right now. I also have a Secret Jardin DR90T. The penthouse is for clones and seedlings, the larger area below is for the few mothers I keep and vegging plants. The DR90T is lit by T5 fluorescents upstairs and down.

You can get a peek at some cloning action in the DR90T here

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=278997

Never tried glycerin tinctures.
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Old 10-30-2014, 07:24 AM #12
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Beautiful plants!
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Old 10-30-2014, 06:37 PM #13
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Here is a look at my nursery, the top of a DR90T not very eventful at the moment, but the DB4 clones will be interesting. They were taken at 44 days into flowering (12 days ago). That will be the furthest into flowering i have ever taken a clone, but I am pretty confident they will take since they appear rooted, even though they have not yet begun to vegetate noticeably.




In the red cups (I was out of 3.5" squares) are two clones each of the 4 Sunshine Daydream females. These were taken 16 days into flowering, since the seed plants did not branch much until then. No worries since I'm in no hurry for them.

I try to keep the humidity high in the nursery, 75% or so if possible. I do this by keeping it closed, and occasionally adjusting for higher humidity by misting with water or just leaving a dish of water to evaporate. I adjust for lower humidity by opening the door for a few minutes.


The veg room is the bottom of my DR90T.



I keep this room less humid, 50-60%. It is lit by 6 2-foot T5s and is also the Mom room. Currently there are two mothers, in the back, DSD on the left and LC on the right. In the foreground, left to right are the next LC to flower and clones of Dream Beaver 1 & 5.

It took me longer to make the DB4 clones because DB1 and DB5 looked to be the standout females early on. Then, about five weeks into flower I began to notice unbelievably delicious smells from DB4. She is small, but fine. I can't wait to taste her. Likewise DB1 and DB5...and the 4 SDs...

I like the DR90T, since I get two rooms with one footprint. Anyone interested in this model should note that it is not quite 3'x3', it is 90cmx90cm. This matters when choosing a tray.
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Old 10-30-2014, 07:12 PM #14
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Here is the flower room, warts and all. In the front row, 4 Sunshine Daydream females at 18 days flowering, back left, the Dream Beavers at 57 days flowering. Back right, obscured by the SD1, is an LC at 30 days.



Lucky Charms clone at 32 days flowering. I was a bit too late giving her the trimming and training she deserved.


Dream Beaver #1 at 57 days flowering



When the Dream Beaver seedlings got their first transplant, into 1 gallon containers, they began to show symptoms of nutrient burn. It was a fresh reammendment, and I figured I had been heavy handed with the organic fertilizer. Cutting that batch with some used soil that had not been reammended at all solved the problem, but the Dream Beavers suffered irreparable damage. They were transplanted once more into 3 gallon containers of properly ammended soil and recovered, more or less (Dream Beaver 5 more, the others less). The DB1 and DB5 clones are quite healthy, showing no damage.

This is the Dream Beaver #5 female at 57 days flowering. She looks like she wants to go 11 or 12 weeks but we'll see. Lucky Charms #3 was late to show ripeness as well, then ripened quickly between weeks 8 and 9. DB5 stretched MUCH more than the others. DB5 is about twice as tall as DB1.

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Old 10-30-2014, 11:47 PM #15
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I really should go to Blumats & beds. That style of growing certainly suits my inclinations. I have already purchased the Blumats. Once I have my select cuts of my current strains, it would be a good time to transition...

In the mean time, I use a few large rubbermaid-type plastic bins (30-40gallons) to recycle my soil.

Soil bin #1 holds the current batch of soil.

Soil bin #2 receives all used soil, as well as some homemade vermicompost with worms.


That is one tray of vermicompost from the worm factory. Notice that some partially decomposed stems, rice hulls and bits of char are identifiable.

I use three terms to refer to the product of worm composting
-EWC is either vermicastings or vermicompost, whatever you've got.
-vermicompost is material that has been worked over by worms but has not yet completely composted, so still contains actively decomposing material as well as vermicastings.
-vermicastings are completely decomposed and finished worm castings.


Here is my Worm Factory 360. I added two extra trays for six total. I kind of want a second unit, so that I could grow more worms, but I don't need them.
New scraps and worm food go in the top. Eventually the bottom tray can be harvested, and it becomes the new top tray.
This diagram is slightly different than the 360 but the idea is the same. I harvest vermicastings from the collection tray and vermicompost from a lower processing tray.
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Old 10-31-2014, 04:37 PM #16
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There are a few things I have learned from this method of recycling soil.

First, adding worms and vermicompost to used soil and letting it "rest" until the next round results in another large worm bin you have created. Those worms will continue to multiply as they work over the soil, adding to its life supporting properties and helping keep away anaerobic conditions in the soil with their constant tunneling.

Second, living soil grows. What started out as not quite two bins worth of soil has grown to 3 bins plus. Additions of EWC require some sort of aeration be added to the soil as well. The sphagnum and uncomposted materials in your soil break down and become finer over time, so in order to maintain a proper texture additions of rice hulls, pumice, perlite or something must be added as well. I like Rice Hulls, since the worms seem to love them and they break down slowly adding a natural source of carbon to the worm bin and silica to the soil. I also use pumice. I avoid additional perlite if possible, though it is in the Pro-Mix.

I also use straight Pro-Mix HP for cloning and seed sprouting, which then gets added to the working soil in those small increments (3.5" squares, usually).

I feed the soil...and it grows.
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Old 11-01-2014, 12:19 AM #17
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Here are a couple of photos of the Lucky Charms bud that is in the 1st picture of the thread after hanging for five days. It is frostier than it appears in these photos.


You can probably tell that LC is ridiculously easy to trim.

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Old 11-01-2014, 12:34 AM #18
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Here's a little bit closer look.

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Old 11-01-2014, 12:44 AM #19
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Beautiful picutes! Definitely a long trim job... haha.
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Old 11-01-2014, 06:15 PM #20
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I didn't document the early life of the Dream Beavers, but here are a few looks at the Sunshine Daydream seedlings that are currently 22 days into flower.

On September 4 I soaked 5 seeds in a shot glass of water, then planted them in straight Pro-Mix HP in 3.5" pots 24 hours later.


On September 7 all 5 seedlings emerged.


On September 16
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