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Guide for Insects and Pest Prevention

PazVerdeRadical

all praises are due to the Most High
Veteran
epa killerhidro, como va eso? how is everything? hope all is good :)

here is a little info, more info here http://www.ext.colostate.edu/PUBS/INSECT/05536.html

"
*Grasshoppers are the most difficult insect to control because they are highly mobile.

*All grasshoppers lay their eggs in soil.

*There are over 100 species of grasshoppers in Colorado.

*During periods when local outbreaks are developing, control usually involves using sprays or baits.

Grasshopper Control
Natural Controls
The most important factors are weather related, particularly around the time of egg hatch. For example, cold, wet weather is very destructive to newly hatched grasshoppers. However, very dry winter and spring conditions also can be harmful to survival since required tender new plant growth is not available.


Some insects commonly feed on grasshoppers. Many species of blister beetles (see fact sheet 5.524, Blister Beetles in Forage Crops) develop on grasshopper egg pods and blister beetle abundance cycles along with their grasshopper hosts. Adult robber flies are common predators of grasshoppers during summer and other flies develop as internal parasites of grasshoppers. Many birds, notably horned larks and kestrals, feed heavily on grasshoppers. Grasshoppers are also frequently eaten by coyotes.


Grasshoppers are also subject to some unusual diseases. A fungus (Entomophthora grylli) infects grasshoppers causing them to move upwards and cling to plants shortly before they kill the insect host. Stiff, dead grasshoppers found stuck to a grass stem or twig indicate infection with this disease. A very large nematode (Mermis nigriscens) also sometimes develops in grasshoppers. Both the fungus disease and nematode parasite are favored by wet weather.


Managing Grasshoppers with Baits and Sprays
During periods when a local outbreak develops, control usually involves using sprays or baits. To be successful these need to be applied to developing stages of grasshoppers and concentrated at sites where egg laying occurs. Ability to control grasshoppers declines as grasshoppers develop and migrate.


Surveys of grasshoppers can be very useful in anticipating problems and treating appropriately. Numbers of grasshoppers present in late summer and early fall can be a good indicator of problems the subsequent year. Follow-up surveys the following spring to detect young nymphs can determine when eggs have hatched. Area-wide surveys may locate egg beds and other sites where early season activity originates.


Treatments should be directed at the young grasshoppers and nearby vegetation present in these breeding sites. At lower altitudes, this often occurs in May; early June may be the optimal time for grasshoppers at higher elevations. Sprays of insecticides are most effective at this time and several insecticides are effective

Insecticide options are greater for larger acreages and unit costs are less expensive. The addition of canola oil to insecticide sprays can improve control by making treated foliage more attractive to feeding grasshoppers.


Alternately, baits containing carbaryl (Sevin) can be broadcast. Bait formulations are made by mixing the insecticide with bran or some other carrier and kill grasshoppers that feed on the bait. These treatments limit application effects on other insects present in the treated area. However, availability of Sevin baits is frequently limited, or prohibitively priced for use on large areas. Baits must be reapplied after rain.


Insecticide treatments do not need to completely cover the area since grasshoppers are mobile. Insecticides applied as bands covering 50 percent of the area, or even less, have proved very effective for control of grasshoppers in rangelands. Backpack sprayers and application equipment modified for use on ATVs can be used in larger acreages. A review of this method, known as Reduced Area Acreage Treatments (RAATS) has been prepared by the University of Wyoming at: www.sdvc.uwyo.edu/grasshopper/atvraats.htm.


Where grasshoppers develop over large areas and impact several properties, coordinated area-wide control is very useful. As this requires some additional preparations in planning, early surveys are even more important. Grasshopper control often is much more successful as a community effort.


Once grasshoppers have reached the adult stage and migrations occur, some insecticides may be applied directly to plants. Such applications have only short effectiveness and damage can occur before individual grasshoppers are killed. Furthermore, the choice of insecticides is more limited since few allow direct application to garden fruit and vegetables.


Nosema locustae Baits
Baits containing the protozoan Nosema locustae is a biological control option that may be considered for treating grasshopper breeding sites. This is sold under the trade names NOLO Bait or Semaspore and can produce infection of many species of grasshoppers. Because it is selective in effects, only affecting grasshoppers, its use is sometimes considered desirable.


There are some limitations to Nosema locustae baits. Only young grasshoppers are susceptible, and it can not be used effectively after adult migrations have occurred. It is also fairly slow acting and does not equally infect all grasshopper species. Often it is most effectively used in a long-term grasshopper management program, in combination with other controls.

Nosema locustae baits are also perishable. They are best kept refrigerated before use. Expiration dates are usually printed on packages and should be checked.

Other Controls
If insecticides are not used, some protection of a garden may be possible by watering grasshopper breeding areas to promote plant growth. This may retard migrations of grasshoppers to areas of more desirable plants. Mowing or other activities that deny food plants in breeding sites should be avoided.


Susceptible plants may be protected by screening or cheesecloth barriers. However, grasshoppers can chew through most fabrics.


Repellents do not appear to be effective. Some materials used as repellents, such as vegetable oils and garlic-based preparations, may instead increase grasshopper feeding on plants.


Poultry may feed heavily on grasshoppers. Turkeys, guinea hens, and chickens have all been used to help control grasshoppers. However, garden areas may need to be fenced since scratching by chickens can be harmful to young plants."
 
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Verdi99

Member
A 12 volt electric fence has always done the trick for me.Stretch the wire about 6-8 inches off the ground and make sure not to let the weeds grow up in it.The fence box will put off a small clicking sound and I guess thats what will keep the deer away.In the areas where I have always grown groundhogs are the big problem.When their belly rubs against that fence they wont be back.After the weed is about waist high you can start letting you batteries go dead,by that time it is too bitter for deer and any other varmint that has been there wont be back.....Verdi99
 

Koi

Member
I have a huge problem with snails this year. Any cheap solutions to kill them off or make them stay away at a distance from the plants.
 

jakeh

Active member
Koi,
A ring of epsom salt will do the trick. Snails or slugs will not cross it. Good luck.
later,
jakeh
 

Koi

Member
I put out a ring of copper threads around the stem of the plants.
I heard that they could feel the static electricity and there for not be able to munch on the babys.

The problem with salt is that it rains away and isn't good for the plants in the long run.
 
How do you deal with termites outdoor ?

I'm growing in the bush ( amazonian jungle) , the termites seems to attack the mj water stressed plants at first.

They can f%ck up all the roots of a big plants in few days, can be a real disaster ...
I've found two visible termites colony close to my plot , one has already been burnt but the other one is high in a big tree ...

I've used chicken manure to fertilize my soil and i know compost and manure do attract the termites, but how could i do ? my soil is not so rich and needs manure !

I was also intrested to grow in the swamp with tubes but termites always colonize the soil of my bucket in the past.

Do you have a chemical solution ? i'm going to try to water with neem oil diluted in water.

Any experience with termites ? Help plz !
 
Oh man do have a story about those cute deer. It was late 90's dont remember the year exactly, but me and buddy had a nice crop in our forrest maybe half mile behind our house. We rolled a couple doobs and decided to see how they was looking it was still a lil chilly out i remember putting a jacket on before the walk. Well we get down to the spot and there was a female deer, with a thick cola still in her mouth laying down on her side asleep. I got a stick and smacked the ground for it to leave, and it slowly got up and walked away. Nonetheless damn deer took off 3 colas im sure it felt good, as I look back it brings a smile but at the time I was pissed off it ate some of our buds :chin:

Reminds me of the story of the Three Bears! LOL :laughing: "Someone's been eating my buds....And he's still here!!:yoinks:" Damn deer! LOL

GFam
 

icred

Member
I have large quantities of deer and rabbit about my garden and found the following to be a successful approach to pest and animal control. I use a "depth of field" approach based upon what I have read here and other sites and it works for me to limit pest problems as follows:

1. 40lb dark green braided fishing line around the perimeter. Slope the fishing line to avoid the water dew that will bead and glisten on it and makes it very visible from a distance.
Do this early in the spring to "train" animals around your garden.
2. Irish Spring soap (green color) cut up bars into 8 - 10 blocks and spread liberally inside and some outside the fishing line perimeter. Use lots and cover any obvious pieces lying about. Also mothballs but not too near the plants. Repeat: weekly
3. I make a mixture of crushed garlic, tabasco, cooking oil and boiling water in old water bottles. I let this steep overnight and spread about each plant in a 6" circle. Pack the plastic bottles back out from the garden due to fingerprints. Repeat: 2weeks or after big rainfall.
4. Pee on trees about your garden. Everytime ;-)
5. I use a natural, commercial spider-mite, etc spray on each plant spraying both tops and bottom of every leaf I can reach. Each visit: inspect and spray well. This takes most of my time each visit and makes me inspect properly.
6. Wear gloves at all times.

I have not had any uprootings or losses due to animals yet this year.

Cheers,
IC
 

japican

Member
this is very helpful i will definatly use this sticky!!!
so i heard that soap and water will burn the plants in the sun...is that true?
 

montehierba

Member
LADI BUGS

LADI BUGS

GROWERS BEST FRIEND
 

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This will help me till the end of December. Here is to another successful crop, a first outdoor success to boot!

Thanks so much for this invaluable contribution.
 

Propa Gator

New member
insect prevention

insect prevention

I grow outdoors and have hungry mammals and insects to contend with.
When I plant out and for the first two months I use a really nasty organophospate based insecticide called orthene. Its horrible , gives me a headache when I smell it and I hate having to use it. But it is systemic and lasts for months, once some small mammal got in my cage, and only nibbled on my toxic seedlings then left. No insect worries at all. I give my plants four months withholding(twice that recommended), by that time a few leaf vine hoppers are having a go, which means no spray residue. I would not have to use it if I could grow in my garden at home...
 

JWP

Active member
I know an old man who lives in the aussie bush must be at least 70yo & fit as a mofo. he says it dont matter what strain it is he doesnt have bug problems. uses compost tea to foliar feed & it creates a waxy layer that bugs hate. works as far as i can see but he does live near the plants
 
G

greasehorse

Plants that repel deer

Plants that repel deer

If overpopulation or the weather has diminished food supplies, deer may eat just about anything in private gardens when they're hungry. And deer appetites vary place to place. While there are no guarantees, the list of possible deer-resistant plants includes agarita, ageratum, alliums, alyssum, amaryllis, anemomes, angel's trumpet, artemesia, barberry, bearded iris, black-eyed Susan, bouncing bet, buddleia, cephalotaxus, cleome, daffodils, dill, eleagnus, foxgloves, hamelia, juniper, lantana, lavender, mint, nandina, oleander, ornamental grass, periwinkle, pigeonberry, pineapple guava, plumbago, poppy, prickly pear cactus, rock rose, rosemary, Russian sage, salvia, scented geraniums, society garlic, snapdragons, Texas sage, thyme, toadflax, turk's cap, viburnum, vitex, yarrow, yaupon, yucca and zinnia.

Some gardeners use commercial repellants; others make a hot pepper-onion-garlic concoction to spray on the plants. And there are those who stuff nylon stockings with human hair or strongly scented deoderant soap and hang this in the plants. (Visit your beauty salon or barber for hair supplies.) But most have found a fence the most foolproof option.

Stolen from Houston Chronicle...
http://www.chron.com/channel/housto...athy_Hubers_list_of_deerresistant_plants.html
 
Are there any plants that deer absolutely love and will eat over anything else? My thinking was maybe grow a big ass patch of whatever they absolutely adore and take care of it as well. Let them eat that to keep them away from your precious ones.
 

dr.penthotal

Chasing the orange grapefruit rabbit
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Lovely post. Nature can be friend or foe. We humans are often in the wrong side.
Keep up fighting
Regards Dr. Penthotal
 
G

Guest 107167

Hey everyone! I have to plant my babies outdoor soon and i'd like to hear what are the best natural things you guys have used, to deter rodents? Against snails i will put a copper wire at the bottom of the stem and put a mixture of egg shells and sawdust ( egg shells are alkaline and sawdust acidic right, so the mixture would keep ph neutral?) around my plants. But what should I do against rodents? I can't use cages, cause this place is visited by hunters sometimes.
Sorry, i'm quite busy all the time, to search myself :D
 

Henry Anslinger

New member
Wow, I should have payed more attention to this thread. I just got rolled by slugs, at least 5 dead seedlings. You should have seen my face when I returned to the patch and found slugs holding my babies in their mouths >.<
 

little j

Member
i have stopped in to read this thread from time to time but i havnt read the whole thing. maybe this idea has been mentioned but i will mention it again.
potatoe dust.!!!
i think putting potatoe dust on young plants keeps rabbits away. also slugs and ants. i use fencing things for deer but rabbits can be kept away by this potatoe plant dust. ants also. try it. it works. it stinks. its not bad for the plant.
thanks, little j.
 
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