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IDIOT's GUIDE TO PPK

D

DaveTheNewbie

so its really a recirc hempy with a thin base to deal with the PWT. I think i get it.

ps if you zip the PDF it might be less gigawatts.
 
Below is a link to Zeke99's PPK Index Page. Lots of good links to D9's original thread. Should be a big help cutting through to the info needed to understand and build the units. The link in the index to the PDF file is dead. I have the PDF file but its too large to post and can't be compressed enough to let me upload it. If someone can accept it by email and host a copy for others to download, let me know by PM and I will send it. It has the pictures and description.

stagehand





https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=4582464&postcount=2264
 

bloyd

Well-known member
Veteran
That pdf is a great start but I would change the control bin to the new set-up. An easy improvement that will allow saturation pulsing.

Zeke's wicked pulse index Below gives you all of the new details after you read the pdf and get an understanding of how the system works.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.ph...1&postcount=67 flattend plane young plant
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.ph...3&postcount=86
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.ph...3&postcount=87
i just bend laterals slowly at the stem. they seem to take a set after a few corrections. fast movement snaps them. i use both hands holding the main stem in one and the branch in the other and slowly bend the branch itself as close to the node as possible. you can feel it give.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.ph...1&postcount=30 - sub irrigation plumbing - use ties to corral tubing
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.ph...2&postcount=55 control/pump bin
also, this reminds me to correct an error. i said the little hole in the bottom of the float control box should be 5/32". this is wrong. it should be 3/32" instead.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.ph...4&postcount=58 control bin
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.ph...2&postcount=41 pump capacity - pulse math for control bucket size
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.ph...3&postcount=47 latex tubing and line sizes photos of control/pump bin
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.ph...7&postcount=80 completed module
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.ph...&postcount=103 back screen
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.ph...&postcount=366 vertical canopy measurements
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.ph...9&postcount=53 pump manifold how-to
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.ph...&postcount=108 - photo of manifold
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.ph...7&postcount=54 pulse terminal
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.ph...postcount=2604 bucket cover overflow holes 3/16"
 
D

DaveTheNewbie

ok a question :

i can get a square pot in pot setup where the inner pot is 18 litres (4.7 gal) and the outer pot is 24 litres (6.3 gal). This means the bottom pot has an extra 6 litres (1.5 gal) in it. This makes the bottom pot 1/3 more again than the top pot, or the top pot 3/4 the size of the bottom pot.

if i stuck a short tailpipe in the smaller pot and made that a PPK am i going to regret having either a small res or a small air gap below ?

Im thinking heavy / regular pulses to make sure it doesnt dry out.
Im thinking only filling up the smaller pot to approx 3 gal, the extra lip will ensure that stuff doesnt fall out of the pot :)

EDIT : I just realised that the top pot also has holes already, so water is going to drip thru them as well as run down the tailpipe in flush. I cant see that being a problem.
 
ok a question :

i can get a square pot in pot setup where the inner pot is 18 litres (4.7 gal) and the outer pot is 24 litres (6.3 gal). This means the bottom pot has an extra 6 litres (1.5 gal) in it. This makes the bottom pot 1/3 more again than the top pot, or the top pot 3/4 the size of the bottom pot.

if i stuck a short tailpipe in the smaller pot and made that a PPK am i going to regret having either a small res or a small air gap below ?

Im thinking heavy / regular pulses to make sure it doesnt dry out.
Im thinking only filling up the smaller pot to approx 3 gal, the extra lip will ensure that stuff doesnt fall out of the pot :)

EDIT : I just realised that the top pot also has holes already, so water is going to drip thru them as well as run down the tailpipe in flush. I cant see that being a problem.

If the top pot has holes in it the roots might make it to the res and get root rot possibly?
 
thru a couple of inches of air? damn i didnt consider that but it does happen :(

Root rot occurs in the absence of adequate oxygen. That has not been a problem for people running this set up. Also, from a labor perspective, one of the advantages of using a shallower and wider top container is the ability to avoid drilling holes except for the tailpipe.
 
Root rot occurs in the absence of adequate oxygen. That has not been a problem for people running this set up. Also, from a labor perspective, one of the advantages of using a shallower and wider top container is the ability to avoid drilling holes except for the tailpipe.

So, with the bottom of the top bucket completely drilled out and sitting inside the bottom bucket won't be a problem? I thought that's what he was talking about...
 

ImaginaryFriend

Fuck Entropy.
Veteran
You can nest a 3.5 gallon inside a 5 gallon pot, and just barely fit in the 'standard' sink drain 'tailpiece'.

In this instance, if you drill out the bottom of the 3.5 the humidity is sufficient between it and the 5 gallon to keep roots white and healthy and they will grow into the solution eventually.

The advantage of nesting is obviously a shorter system for height restricted grows.

The disadvantage is that there is only six inches between the bottom of the 3.5 and the bottom of the 5, so a three inch air gap only allows for three inches of solution to be in operation in control and bottom reservoirs.

This reduces the buffering, and limits the quantity of solution available for the pulse system. The solution is lower volumes per pulse with more frequency.
 
D

DaveTheNewbie

So, with the bottom of the top bucket completely drilled out and sitting inside the bottom bucket won't be a problem? I thought that's what he was talking about...

your correct JR


You can nest a 3.5 gallon inside a 5 gallon pot, and just barely fit in the 'standard' sink drain 'tailpiece'.

In this instance, if you drill out the bottom of the 3.5 the humidity is sufficient between it and the 5 gallon to keep roots white and healthy and they will grow into the solution eventually.

The advantage of nesting is obviously a shorter system for height restricted grows.

The disadvantage is that there is only six inches between the bottom of the 3.5 and the bottom of the 5, so a three inch air gap only allows for three inches of solution to be in operation in control and bottom reservoirs.

This reduces the buffering, and limits the quantity of solution available for the pulse system. The solution is lower volumes per pulse with more frequency.

yup this is where i was going with my question, and your answer is what i expected. :)
 
D

DaveTheNewbie

http://www.bonsai4me.com/Basics/Basicscatlitter.htm


There was some discussion in HighLife45s thread about mediums. I didnt want to steal that thread any more than i already did, but here are some thoughts regarding mediums and Australia.


Turface : its very hard to get in Australia, being a brand name for an Americian product. In Melbourne you have http://sagehort.com.au/product/view/?name=9afc717477ca8e6c39269d4dce84db35
Other IDENTICAL brand names for the same product (in the USA) include :
- Diamondpro Vitrified Infield Conditioners
- Profield field conditioner
- Epsoma Soil Perfector
- Schultz Soil Conditioner
- Schultz Aquatic Soil
- Terra-Green Pro's Choice
- Mulemix field conditioner


Diatomaceous Earth : also hard to get in Australia untill you really look around.
One national company that seems to have it is Blackwoods : http://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/00190723/absorbent-dry-up-oil-diatomearth-20kg and http://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/05148508/kleensorb-diatomite-green-20kg. they also have Spongolite.
Another option i havent tried is http://www.hydronation.com.au/products/Maidenwell-Diatomite-40ltrs.html
And http://www.vitec.com.au/shop-online/soil-conditioners/bonsaiorchidcactus-organic-diatomaceous-earth
and http://www.petsupersavers.com.au/pe...oiletries/DIATOMITE-KLEENSORB-BROWN-35LT.html
Other IDENTICAL brand names for the same product (in the USA) include :
- Terramol
- Moler Clay


http://www.greenlifesoil.com.au/minerals.htm : Note: The Australian Government Australian Pesticides and Veterinary Medicines Authority have advised that DE is not registered under the Agricultural and Veterinary Chemicals Code Act 1994 ('Agvet Code') and as such it is an offence to represent it as a product which: "is represented as a means of destroying, stupefying, repelling, inhibiting the feeding of, or preventing infestation by or attacks of, any pest in relation to a plant, a place or thing and/or modifying the physiology of a plant or pest so as to alter its natural development, productivity, quality or reproductive capacity."


Alot of information was sourced from Bonsai forums and the like, so should work in PPKs but arent proven to.


Akadama : Japaneese bonsai clay balls. The original. "it is prized by many growers for its ability to retain water and nutrients while still providing porosity and free drainage". Expensive and hard to find but available for bonsai.


Zeolite : "it is a naturally occurring volcanic rock that acts as a nutrient exchange, it absorbs minerals and nutrients, including ammonia, it will store these captured nutrients within the cells and will release directly to the root system of the plants as required. It works equally well in soil as it does in water."


Spongolite : " Spongolite is 99% silicon, a natural mineral mined in Western Australia. It has a beneficial effect on plants when incorporated into the soil or potting media. It also has the ability to absorb up to 50% of its weight in water." "The sponge structure is silica based and very strong. This means that Spongolite does not breakdown and become wet, messy and slippery when it absorbs liquids"


Attapulgite : seems to break down faster and isnt so reusable, but very viable used once per grow. Available in any major pet/garden chain or coles/woolies as kitty litter. Very cheap. "The main difference I have found is that the Attapulgite breaks down over 2-3 years and the diatomite does not."


i suspect anything for bonsai or cactus would be good.

EDIT :
"In fact in our test 100% attapulgite did better than 100% Diatomite" http://www.ausbonsai.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=5745&start=60
"Zeolite has a sickening Cation exchange capacity (CEC) somewhere between 1000 to 1500 making uptake of nutrients more possible" http://www.ausbonsai.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=8602 Whatever that means :)
 

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