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Old 05-07-2019, 08:55 PM #51
zoo
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Who here has left the water on and forgot to turn it off b4 it was 2 late....or my favorite ..faulty undersized Float Valve failure

Im on 2 over the last 6 years.... Both costly

Can I ask how your float valve failed? was it human error not fully engaging the thumb screw properly or the actual float failed?


Toilets have floats in them and rarely fail, so i'm interested to know how this happened.
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Old 05-07-2019, 09:50 PM #52
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Had an R/O reservoir over-flow (more than once.. slow learner...), and flood under walls in the basement, into my shop.

Tip-toeing around in sufficient water to cover the floor, with base of the ballasts were damp, and waiting for the final glow in life, thinking that rubber-soled water shoes are a really good idea in such cases....

Now all of my ballasts at floor-level are contained in rubbermade totes with the tops removed to vent heat, as the totes can float, and keep the water (should any over re-occur) away from the ballasts, unless there's a leak in a pipe that runs in the ceiling joists there... which I'd attribute to Murphy.

Haven't gone back yet to using R/O D/I H2O, but need to soon, as a necessity resulting from a more recent lab test on my well water. Will be using a shut-off valve on the 33-gallon trash barrel I use for R/O when doing this. I don't like the design, as it simply re-directs the flow of R/O to the drain, once the level of the trash barrel's H2O rises enough to close the valve via the float, and R/O units are often already notoriously inefficient where waste-water effluent going to the septic tank is concerned. But it beats the snot out of using brooms & a squeegie on the basement floor for the umpteenth time..

Of saving benefit in this case, when we rocked our basement walls, I used 1/2" marine-grade sheet-rock (the green board) on the walls for the 1st 2 ft. up from the floor. Less terminal damage to the walls this way, but still a mess. And green board isn't 'bullet-proof.' If it gets wet enough times, you'll still need to do sheetrock repair.

Also, I once gifted an older HPS 400 watt magnetic ballast to a friend in the bush. Fortunately he was home when the cord at the ballast burned almost in 2, nearly sparking a blaze that would've likely left him homeless in the middle of (almost) no where..

Ballasts and other electrical components can age just like we can.

Lastly, when mixing organic amendments that are known to sometimes carry pathogens, wear a mask/respirator, especially when the amendments are dry and easily become air-borne, even though it's uncomfortable to do so in a more humid or hot environment. I used to often get a 8-12-hour episode of mild flu symptoms when mixing organics in a cement mixer indoors.
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Old 05-07-2019, 11:17 PM #53
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Now all of my ballasts at floor-level are contained in rubbermade totes with the tops removed to vent heat, as the totes can float, and keep the water (should any over re-occur) away from the ballasts, unless there's a leak in a pipe that runs in the ceiling joists there... which I'd attribute to Murphy.
Brilliant! Thank you for sharing this.

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I don't like the design, as it simply re-directs the flow of R/O to the drain, once the level of the trash barrel's H2O rises enough to close the valve via the float.
What type of r/o unit are you using? I've used a stealth-100 RO for years now and it shuts off completely when you close the output valve. A float valve does the exact same thing.

If you're using a booster pump, there are ones which have a backflow sensor. They shut off when the output of the r/o machine shuts off.
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Old 05-07-2019, 11:45 PM #54
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Brilliant! Thank you for sharing this.


What type of r/o unit are you using? I've used a stealth-100 RO for years now and it shuts off completely when you close the output valve. A float valve does the exact same thing.

If you're using a booster pump, there are ones which have a backflow sensor. They shut off when the output of the r/o machine shuts off.
Not currently in use, and the R/O unit itself has sat dormant long enough, still in its original place on the basement wall, that I'm hesitant to use it, as I fear what array of fungal critters might've grown in the chambers over the last 12-16 years since it was last used.

That said, I got it from an older gentleman in Indiana, off the internet, from a search of one sort or another, and he was selling 'portable R/O units for salt water reef aquariums' (as in, set up to connect to a threaded hose-bib or faucet, which was what I wanted).

The shut-off valve is still in the box he sent to me back then, a year or 2 after the initial purchase of the portable R/O unit, complete with hand-written tags on each inlet or outlet, along with 1 pre-filter and 1 post-filter cartridge he sent back then.

I have a Kinnetico R/O unit in the kitchen, but it's hooked up to the main water angle-cock beneath the kitchen sink, and has the fancy chrome tap/faucet with it, and small-ish pressure tank, with no option for taking it to the basement, and I've not had any desire to have a pressure tank attached to anything geared for indoor gardening, and lack knowledge about how to make such a configuration work for me.

Another established forum member referenced the iSpring R/O D/I units, and stated he has run one of their 5-stage or 6-stage units with the re-mineralization option.

But further research revealed that their re-mineralization models come with a prop 64/Prop 65 (??) warning from California's environmental compliance folks, and when that particular buyer inquired with iSpring's folks about "Why the warning? What's in your unit that triggers this warning?" they allegedly wouldn't tell him. That, and the iSpring units I found all seem to come with a tank, and that's not the set-up I need for my basement utility sink's tap.

So iSpring hasn't caused me to order one of their units right away.

Still shopping for a reasonable unit that does a good job, doesn't need to re-mineralize (though I'm somewhat open to that, depending), and would love to use a valve that doesn't add to the already outrageous waste water flowing down the drain.

Though I figure the valve I have now, new in the box still, even if it sends excess water down the drain, is really only to function for those times I fall asleep before the water can reach its proper level, and until I get up and to the basement at what ever time of day, to shut off the supply to the unit.

But my TDS is up around 380 +/-, straight out of the well, with lots of calcium carbonate in the otherwise clear & excellent, no-odor, no-taste well water.
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Old 05-07-2019, 11:51 PM #55
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Brilliant! Thank you for sharing this.
To be more specific about the Rubbermaid tote set-ups, I take a piece of fire-resistant 5/8" x-guard (residential ceiling specced) sheetrock, slightly bigger in dimension than the perimeter of the ballasts in question, and place that under the ballast inside the totes, so it gives a more-or-less non-flammable surface for the ballast to sit on in the tote, and, should a minor amount of water get into the totes, the ballast is slightly off the bottom of the tote.

Murphy tends to follow me around like he's my younger brother or something, so I try to brace for his presence..
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Old 05-08-2019, 11:11 AM #56
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Lastly, when mixing organic amendments that are known to sometimes carry pathogens, wear a mask/respirator, especially when the amendments are dry and easily become air-borne, even though it's uncomfortable to do so in a more humid or hot environment. I used to often get a 8-12-hour episode of mild flu symptoms when mixing organics in a cement mixer indoors.
Good advice moose eater. Same thing goes for using perlite, always wear something that gives protection to your lungs... A NIOSH approved respirator would be best. Perlite dust produces tiny shards that can damage your lungs and cause Silicosis (scarring of the airways from particles.)

I always wear a mask and work outdoors with a light breeze when mixing soil. Wetting it down a little helps kept harmful dusts/debris from becoming air-borne.
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Old 05-08-2019, 07:23 PM #57
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Can I ask how your float valve failed? was it human error not fully engaging the thumb screw properly or the actual float failed?


Toilets have floats in them and rarely fail, so i'm interested to know how this happened.
Float valve str8 up failed on a 500 gallon res... I used the real simple and cheap one from the old sunlight supply stock...

Switched to Jobe Valves made in New Zealand.. heavy duty float valve... never had a problem again...

There's a reason why they make these as big and sturdy as the Jobe
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Old 05-08-2019, 10:17 PM #58
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In my indoor beginnings a plastic fan failed and started to burn. Luckily the fire was left in the fan, black walls, black marijuana, etc. I never use non-metal fans again and regularly check / grease the ones I have.
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Old 05-08-2019, 10:29 PM #59
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An old friend asked me years ago for a 250w ballast to keep the mothers in a hydroponic setup for 3 guys. The tank broke down draining the water to departments of the plant below. The neighbors called the firemen, the firemen to the police and the police to my friend, after a year of trials they left without charges, my ballast still I believe in police dependencies
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