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Why is Organic Cannabis better?

xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Dr Fever while the info you present is reasonably accurate; its also irrelevant to the paradigm {which has actually been addressed in both of my previous posts BTW}

following that logic; virtually every organic grower on this forum should be encountering serious problems w/ their grows yet, somehow; they are not

i dont personally think i would get a soil test for container mixes {since i already know whats in it} outdoors it may be more beneficial

again; an organic grower feeding the soil {not the plant} need not be concerned w/ bio-availability except perhaps when choosing feedstocks for initial runs {just starting up} i.e. greensand likely contributes very little to the first cycle and if a grower is not recycling soil it wouldnt be a good choice

but recycling soil is one key to the distinction ~the fact that you actually *can* re-use soil for more than 1 cycle is somewhat telling

plant based amendments is part of how plants feed them self ~preceeding generations have died and composted on the soil surface providing some of the nutrients to successive generations

it is actually by analyzing the elemental profiles of mature plant matter that modern nutrient profiles have been derived ~the logical next step is that mature plant matter already has a similar profile to the nut requirement of that particular plant

w/ a little diversity of plant-based additions; a reasonably good nut profile is fairly automatic {though any kind of specific nut profile is un-necessary since the soil food web essentially acts as a buffer here}
 

sprinkl

Member
Veteran
Here's what I add to my soil

"Bio Supermix is ​​a unique and very complete natural fertilizer. It is balanced and includes living fungi and bacteria, vitamins and minerals, trace elements, worm humus and Guano Peru for optimal plant development. Bio-Supermix provides a rich soil and increases resistance.

composition: Feather meal, bone meal, Guano Peru, rock phosphate, maerl, bentonite, basalt, seaweed meal, lava flour. Solution of organic NPK fertilizer (1-2-0). 1.2% total nitrogen (N) with 1.2% organic bound nitrogen, 1.6% water-soluble phosphorus pentoxide (P 2 O 5 ), 0.35% water-soluble potassium oxide (K 2 O)."

I don't know the exact micronutrient ratios but I know it contains everything the plant needs.
When the soil runs out of nutrients I add some liquid organic fertilizer,
"BioFlores was developed for the blooming phase of fast growing plants. BioFlores contains a hops extract. Due to the fact that BioFlores contains a hops extract it provides many of the necessary minerals and in the correct proportions. In addition to these minerals, hops extract also contains cannabinoid-like substances such as lupuline , luparol, lupulon and humulon , which provide the plant with extra blooming power."

Easy and kicks ass...
 

Talonted

Active member
Sounds like there are a few fert heads that just dont get why the fancy bottle makes your tailor made strains taste like crap compared to organic materials.

Organics will always produce more oils and higher terpenes. "Fact" unless you chose some shwag F4 in organics and ran a fancy F1 hashplant with ferts.

Its easy to understand if you look at it this way. Humans and plants are organic and if humans consume non organic materials like pills over their life time, they will not flourish as it would if it were to consume raw healthy products from the sea and land. Fertilizer is mans way of telling it to grow big, messing with the plants natural abilities.

Beneficial bacteria in soil helps feed the plant along with mycorrhizae.
All these organic mircobial bacteria are free when steeping home brews.

Sure salts are immediately avail but i like to chew food and taste it instead of pill form with a glass of water to wash it down

"Fertilizers are like going into 7eleven to do your grocery shopping, its only the convenience your buying" Talon.
 

DrFever

Active member
Veteran
Dr Fever while the info you present is reasonably accurate; its also irrelevant to the paradigm {which has actually been addressed in both of my previous posts BTW}

following that logic; virtually every organic grower on this forum should be encountering serious problems w/ their grows yet, somehow; they are not

i dont personally think i would get a soil test for container mixes {since i already know whats in it} outdoors it may be more beneficial

again; an organic grower feeding the soil {not the plant} need not be concerned w/ bio-availability except perhaps when choosing feedstocks for initial runs {just starting up} i.e. greensand likely contributes very little to the first cycle and if a grower is not recycling soil it wouldnt be a good choice

but recycling soil is one key to the distinction ~the fact that you actually *can* re-use soil for more than 1 cycle is somewhat telling

plant based amendments is part of how plants feed them self ~preceeding generations have died and composted on the soil surface providing some of the nutrients to successive generations

it is actually by analyzing the elemental profiles of mature plant matter that modern nutrient profiles have been derived ~the logical next step is that mature plant matter already has a similar profile to the nut requirement of that particular plant

w/ a little diversity of plant-based additions; a reasonably good nut profile is fairly automatic {though any kind of specific nut profile is un-necessary since the soil food web essentially acts as a buffer here}

actually you mention you not hearing of organic growers having issues , hmm lets see FFOF many cases of burnt plants and massive issues
again most manures and other sources are amendments not fertilizers do you actually know how much potasium you actually have in your soil or any other nutrient level ???? Organic soils produce salts ????? do you not see middle to late flowering stages many deficiencies occuring in organic growing ????
trust me there is
i take it you probably add dolomite lime fertilizer to your soil ????? so you actually know your magnesium level of your soil ???
The problem with dolomite lime? It has a calcium to magnesium ratio of 2:1. That’s way too much magnesium for most soils. Magnesium is certainly an essential mineral. Too much of it, however, causes many problems, compaction being one of the most common, but also pest and weed problems.
You should only use garden lime when you have a soil test showing a huge deficiency of magnesium in your soil.

Even then, calcitic lime (calcium carbonate) is generally the way to go because it has a small amount of magnesium and often a calcium to magnesium ratio of about 6:1, with a calcium content of 30% to 40% or more.:biggrin:
Bottom line both ways will work but don't make it sound like organic will out due chemically grown plants cause it will lose in all fields VEG growth speeds , yield and overall health here then the controversy of taste again taste comes with the gentics and proper drying
dont get fooled into thinking that cause you feed chemical nutes or even horse shit to your plants your going to taste it in final product cause plants break down that NPK into its own source of food
 

DrFever

Active member
Veteran
Today’s bonemeal is not the bonemeal of my youth. It continues to be made from animal bones that are steamed, then ground. But more efficient processing methods remove much of the nutrient value, so it can’t be counted on as a complete fertilizer source. None*theless, it still is a good source of phosphorus, which helps with cell and seed formation, cell division, and root growth in plants. A soil test will tell you if you need additional phosphorus.
Depending on the brand, bonemeal contains phosphates (P2O5) in amounts ranging from 10 percent to 13 percent. (On fertilizer packages, phosphorus [P] is the second element listed in the series of three, with nitrogen [N] coming first and potassium [K] coming last.) Some brands of bonemeal also contain up to 4 percent nitrogen.
A natural organic fertilizer, bonemeal generally is recommended for bulbs and roses but can be used in just about any situation where a controlled-release form of phosphorus is needed. Because the nutrients from bonemeal and other slow-release fertilizers are insoluble in water, they must be converted to a form that plants can use.
again most of these amendments are slow active and take time to actually break down for plant uptake right
So YES many plants starting in organic soil can very easily show signs of deficiency as
Even above post Sprinkl mentions when his organic soil runs out so again is this why so many people are turning to tea recipes as of course being MJ needs lots of P and K in bloom there isnt much there from veg cycle can some one postt day 65 bloom pics of there organic grow ????
 

xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
ICMag Donor
Veteran
drfever i would have to agree that FFOF is the cause of a lot of problems for 'organic' growers

lol

trucking a bag of FFOF home isnt quite a closed loop practice

FYI my liming practice is more of a calcium amending process ~i use oyster shell dolo lime and gypsum {some of the other guys are talking about using crab meal} have used ashes

fish bone meal is my preference as far as bone meal goes but plant-based amendments are preferred

kinda like how a closed loop farm uses cover crops and composting

not so much FFOF though i have been curious to try it mixed w/ light warrior <un-amended
 

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