Building a new dual RDWC flowering system

Here is the plans so far. Which config would you pick? I'm still deciding, before I run to the hardware store.

Or, there's a blank to edit in case anyone wants to make a suggestion..

Maybe put pumps in control res cabinet (not much room at all), or
just simply pull from the reservoirs to the "house" and pump back to each tote? I would prefer undercurrent though.



Will be using 2 inch manifolds & bulkheads, and down to 3/4 for the return pipes\fittings. Probably use more flexible black tubing with fittings from the pump, and through the wall to the res cab.

2x 396gph pumps, 2x 18 watt commercial air pumps. Also one 50 gallon top off res w/ 2 float valves. Stay tuned as I update for custom air diffusers.

Like to keep the center area in between systems clear for work space.. to lay in if possible. Gonna be a tight fit now! Sometimes I string up this 12' or so area between the 2 scrog nets, it grows the best between bulbs.

Settled in on this plan, as totes have more capacity, and less plumbing than smaller containers.

I also like my idea of using a smaller matching tote for a "pump house", to minimize spills, etc. Can shutoff the valves + unscrew the unions to remove the whole tote for maintanence.

I would also like to house the filters in there too, but unsure about system B. Being farther away, is it better to go with 2 inch return pipe to the house tote, is a long 3/4 run before it even gets to the filter more likely to clog?

The filter is usually on the manifold at the end of rows, where 2 inch reduces to 1/2 - 3/4', as it should be... I think I should be ok with it being farther away though...

Here's the Blank. Will upload a pic of the room later.

with the number of plants you want to have and the footprint you are working with I think you'd be better off running 5 gallon pails in 5 rows, north and south by your drawing, 4 per row. Use 2" between the buckets to a 4" return line on the backside and back to the epicenter. The way you're looking at it now could make things difficult to maintain down the road.

Probably have to go to 4 x 4 with two main rows. if the sides are blocked.

you might consider a small spa cartrige filter instead of y strainers, or even a pentair type treatment cartrige filter( big blue type filter housing).

the problem with pool/spa cartrige filters is that its sometimes hard to get filter elements locally.

with a spa cartridge filter you will get a much better filtration with a fraction of the pressure drop( at the flow rates you are talking about), and the filter element is accessable from the top.

with the big blue type cartrige filters the plumbing comes into the top... so you cannot just unscrew the top portion without expensive unions.

i like to reccomend these because if you keep things reasonably sanitary you should not need to clean or replace the elements but once a few months maximum. these cartrige filters also ... almost always have provisions for a pressure gauge too. some have a pressure gauge port that is not threaded and tapped at the factory though, so watch out for that.
you will need a drill bit and cheap tap if thats the case.

~SpacedCWBY~ said:

with the number of plants you want to have and the footprint you are working with I think you'd be better off running 5 gallon pails in 5 rows, north and south by your drawing, 4 per row. Use 2" between the buckets to a 4" return line on the backside and back to the epicenter. The way you're looking at it now could make things difficult to maintain down the road.

Click to expand...

Hey CWBY, howdy

Ya I originally planned the room for 4-6 buckets on each side. I even bought a 12 pack of 3.5 rounds over a year ago. I could of managed 5 gals but my ceiling is at 6' and the extra few inches always helps.

4.5 square pails are probably ideal for my situation, but I don't wanna pay shipping lol. They add up quick otherwise. Not to bad though really, I think theres a ware house 50-60 miles away.

Had my eye on sterilite 7.5 gal stackers for awhile, cheap and local, nice dark lids.

Even the new opaque hefty hi-rise totes the stores are carrying look nice. The 32 qt for each site.

Is it bad when you start memorizing the dimensions to every single tote, bucket, container, etc from every store or supplier there ever was?

For sure though. I can stuff 2 classic double row bucket setups with res right in the room..





And about those obnoxious blocks I have to plumb\work around, I'm sure a few have guessed what they are by now. Was gonna save that for a complete build thread later this year..

queequeg152 said:

you might consider a small spa cartrige filter instead of y strainers, or even a pentair type treatment cartrige filter( big blue type filter housing).

the problem with pool/spa cartrige filters is that its sometimes hard to get filter elements locally.

with a spa cartridge filter you will get a much better filtration with a fraction of the pressure drop( at the flow rates you are talking about), and the filter element is accessable from the top.

with the big blue type cartrige filters the plumbing comes into the top... so you cannot just unscrew the top portion without expensive unions.

i like to recommend these because if you keep things reasonably sanitary you should not need to clean or replace the elements but once a few months maximum. these cartrige filters also ... almost always have provisions for a pressure gauge too. some have a pressure gauge port that is not threaded and tapped at the factory though, so watch out for that.
you will need a drill bit and cheap tap if thats the case.

Click to expand...

queequeg, glad you stopped by;

yep the filter can be a huge bottleneck, it literally is one. in my case though, on System B with a remote filter config.. it's a reeeeaaal long one. But overall yes I agree, the filter is kinda like the return artery to the heart(the pumps), should flow nice and free!

I cant help but picture debres and roots crawling up in that area and clogging the filter. No matter where I put it. I just been running my pumps in the res the last few temp setups i made. Yet to even use a strainer.

Hopefully my 4'+ piece of translucent 2" pvc I got layin around can help with that. Could do a small section before the filter, and keep a sleeve over it when im not inspecting.. Other problem areas too... Clear spud gun project can wait i suppose.



So anyways I bet you picked config 1 then, ya? Filters closest to the source. Seems most logical.

The filters would actually be nice back there. Right next to my 1.5 inch floor drain\plug, so when i open the flexible drain pipe valves (not shown on plans yet), it might even backwash some crud back from the screen and through the 2" Tee\Reducer manifold, and right down the drain a few inches away. Oh the drain is flush too, and I could squeegie any spills into the hole.

Or would you pull through both totes in parallel, like Plan config 5.





So I have looked at the bigger y-strainers, 1 1/2'' even 2'' for like $25 and up, and up , and up , all the way up to the the $2-300 translucent ones. Ya...

Figured that hell I could just buy a few more of these cheap 3/4 rain birds you probably already know I got sitting here lol. Then make dual or even triple 3/4' rainbird filter manifolds. 2 is better than one right?

Or should I say, you can't kill two birds with one sto... rootball




Been thinking about it a lot. Also about making my own canister type filters. Or even large y fitting strainers from scratch, always prefer DIY unless I have to buy something. Even pull through a seperate container and use the mesh from a regular furnace filter.

But yeah def I want to keep it sterile, don't want to colonize it with bacteria much, like I would in my 3 stage aquarium filter.






Spa filters: So, big, lots of surface area around the cartrige, less chance of clogs. Unscrew the top. I like it. I would rather build my own housings and just buy the filters unless I can find a few for cheap.

Going to check around. I think I have one, well no, just an old hot tub heater. maybe. I'll cut the side off a junk hot tub before i'll spend 50-150$ a peice.

Hmm, but they sure would look f'ing good flush mounted right into the floor. Bring the plumbing down to it. unscrew and pull the filters right up and out of the floor. I'm not opposed to that. It is a brand new floor though..

I want the best for sure.

More details:



Been waiting forever to build a mostly permanent system going in the flower room. Finally got the floor and enough finish work completed to start the good build. I got plants waiting for it, in those 3.5 dwc buckets of course


I'm about to lay a new floor in the control cabinet, slightly higher level than the flower room on the other side of the wall. And finish with FRP. I will have 7.5 gallon black flip top trash bins for each res. Each has its own door down under the counter top in my main work area. No need to disturb the flower room if I don't want to. I just expect spills\failures to happen so I build accordingly.


Later in the summer, I will likely plumb heat exchangers into each res. Good for now.

I should add that i'll be using cheap 396 GPH ecoplus pumps until they give up the chooch. W'ell see! I've yet to burn out an ecoplus anything.. BTW they apparently have mag drives now.


Roughly 40g total capacity per system.


Scored some bad ass Husky 25 gallon totes yesterday. way better than the yellow lid HDX 27g tough totes (which I bought 4 of too recently), at home depot. The Husky lid is awesome for net pot arraingments, completely light proof, rugged, lower and wider. They make 5, 15, 25, 35, and 45gals.

Although there are 10 sites in both 3.5 x 4.5 growing areas, I don't exactly plan on using them all. But this way I can grow how ever many or whatever configuration I need. Sometimes you run a little late, you know.

Probably start with 8 per side, leaving the middle 3.75" netpot for a small access port. Or vice versa, with one large plant per tote and 4 access ports. However many I want. I can fill the scrog nets with one monster, coming from one tote, bent over as well.

It will be staggered, hence the 2 systems.. 1 side a month.

Lots more idea's..

Like adding a few valves so i actually could back flush the y strainer filters. With a diaphram pump. If I did that every other day I wouldn't have to constantly unscrew it as much, i would think!

Or running just the return outlet bulkheads down through the bottom of the tote, and run straight under the floor to a new sump pump area, after they go through 2 spa filters. All insulated and boxed in, under the floor.

This room was built for this purpose. I'll be working in it tomorrow and be sure to come through with some pics.

Drop That Sound said:

queequeg, glad you stopped by;

yep the filter can be a huge bottleneck, it literally is one. in my case though, on System B with a remote filter config.. it's a reeeeaaal long one. But overall yes I agree, the filter is kinda like the return artery to the heart(the pumps), should flow nice and free!

I cant help but picture debres and roots crawling up in that area and clogging the filter. No matter where I put it. I just been running my pumps in the res the last few temp setups i made. Yet to even use a strainer.

Hopefully my 4'+ piece of translucent 2" pvc I got layin around can help with that. Could do a small section before the filter, and keep a sleeve over it when im not inspecting.. Other problem areas too... Clear spud gun project can wait i suppose.



So anyways I bet you picked config 1 then, ya? Filters closest to the source. Seems most logical.

Click to expand...

I didnt actually know these were different configurations tbh. i thought they were just mirror images of eachother.

IDK about the root problem tbh. id never considered roots traveling down stream through the plumbing, but its entirely possible.

dont waste too much of that transparent pvc though lol. just make a sight glass dude... 2 inches max imo. transparent pvc is stupid expensive, and shipping anything longer than like 24 inches is outrageous.

off the top of my head i suppose you could just put a knife gate valve in there to cut the roots if they ever made it that far, but idk sounds like a pita to me.

you are talking about a 2" pvc return so id imagine that the roots would never ever be able to block that much cross section given the low velocities here.

The filters would actually be nice back there. Right next to my 1.5 inch floor drain\plug, so when i open the flexible drain pipe valves (not shown on plans yet), it might even backwash some crud back from the screen and through the 2" Tee\Reducer manifold, and right down the drain a few inches away. Oh the drain is flush too, and I could squeegie any spills into the hole.

Or would you pull through both totes in parallel, like Plan config 5.

Click to expand...

higher pressure drip systems are my thing tbh, but i i were to build a largish RWDC system like this, i would run a single pump and single filter personally. i would control flow rate by a valve on the suction w/ a pitot style flow meter on the discharge side( 10 pipe diameters after a transition).

im simply thinking about the downtime in between runs though. if you dont mind the extra time in breaking stuff down and cleaning things out than two parallel systems lends you a great deal more flexibility in that you can bring each system online in stages... ie run one system on 2 weeks after the other or what ever.

maby im biased though. i dont do any cleaning at this point. i jsut trash all of my poly piping every other year or so. maby im overestimating the amount of time it would take.

far as all of your piping configurations? they all will work honestly. you should look at from the standpoint of the lowest possible number of fittings.

configuration 4 or 5 is the most reasonable imo.

far as backwashing? remember you are using very small pumps.

in all likelyhood you will simply not develop enough flow rate to effectively back wash anything.

people forget this... but the reason pool pumps are in and around 2hp is in part related to the need to back wash these large ass filters. if you look at the smart pool owners, you will find that yea they have massive 3hp pool pumps... but they are variable speed and running at like 1/2hp (usually alot less) maximum 95% of the time.

lots of HP also helps with vacuuming obiviously... but these days most people are buying electric pool robots to do the vacuuming of leaves and shit and algea dust on the pool floor simply does not require much flow rate.

anyway my point is that i would not worry about backwashign anything. you probably will not have enough power to do it. by all means though try it out.

also rememeber that many of these y strainers have threaded caps on the bottom and some even have valves to back wash debris off of the screens. again though these are intended to be used on hose bibs and shit, so the flow you can develop is going to be huge compared to your pumps.

So I have looked at the bigger y-strainers, 1 1/2'' even 2'' for like $25 and up, and up , and up , all the way up to the the $2-300 translucent ones. Ya...

Figured that hell I could just buy a few more of these cheap 3/4 rain birds you probably already know I got sitting here lol. Then make dual or even triple 3/4' rainbird filter manifolds. 2 is better than one right?

Or should I say, you can't kill two birds with one sto... rootball




Been thinking about it a lot. Also about making my own canister type filters. Or even large y fitting strainers from scratch, always prefer DIY unless I have to buy something. Even pull through a seperate container and use the mesh from a regular furnace filter.

But yeah def I want to keep it sterile, don't want to colonize it with bacteria much, like I would in my 3 stage aquarium filter.

Click to expand...

idk about building your own filters. sounds like a pita.

Spa filters: So, big, lots of surface area around the cartrige, less chance of clogs. Unscrew the top. I like it. I would rather build my own housings and just buy the filters unless I can find a few for cheap.

Going to check around. I think I have one, well no, just an old hot tub heater. maybe. I'll cut the side off a junk hot tub before i'll spend 50-150$ a peice.

Hmm, but they sure would look f'ing good flush mounted right into the floor. Bring the plumbing down to it. unscrew and pull the filters right up and out of the floor. I'm not opposed to that. It is a brand new floor though..

I want the best for sure.

Click to expand...

i bought my spa filter for like 40 bucks. are they really that expensive now?

are you looking at the massive ones that take 4 individual cartriges or the ones that just take a single 6" cartrige?

i was referring to the ultra small varieities that you see in hot tub spas... they are the squatty little things not the tall slender ones you see on those bigger walmart vinyl pools.

dont bother with the haward or pentair stuff. i got a shitty one from "waterway" i think? its a noname brand, but these things are retarded simple.

there is an internal bypass inside valve mine, but it will never be actuated because the flow rate is far far far below what its intended for.

queequeg152 said:

i like to reccomend these because if you keep things reasonably sanitary you should not need to clean or replace the elements but once a few months maximum.

Click to expand...

i meant MINIMUM btw.

these cartrige filters are pleated. the density of the pleating depends on which cartriges you buy. some are designed to be loaded with DE or zeolite, and some are designed to be run by themselves.

so yea, the filter material itself is much more restrictive than a screen per unit of area... but in a cartrige filter yo literally get like 50 square feet of area whereas the with a screen or disk filter( actually they are "strainers") you just get like double digit square inches typically.

the super large surface area means you get better filtration at a low pressure drop. the large area also means that with a low rate of fouling you can go months and months withotu replacing or cleaning it... the only problem with cartriges is algea fouling though. if they get coated in algea they might as well be made of seran wrap.

depending on the cartridge you can usually clean them though. trisodium phosphate and then an acid bath works well enough at first... just dont mix the two what so ever, and dont acid wash first...

i dont know the real issue, but supposedly acid washing algea directly oxidizes the algea cells and the debris becomes harder to remove. SUPPOSEDLY. idk exactly.

Ya 2" will be a good upgrade from 1 1/4" on my previous systems. I always would be reaching down in there and making sure, sometimes pulling a few feelers out. It will suck to have to lay on so I def wanna keep the plumbing off to the sides.

I actually feel more confident with a long 2" run before the filter because well, haven't seen too many 4 ft + long roots. Double the bulkheads would be nice too, I make them pretty cheap.

And for sure, was thinking of cutting a few 3-4 inch long clear tubes coupled in here and there, especially after the return bulkheads and before filter would be sweet. Thats around 2'' after the couplers are glued. They actually have up to 1 1/4" at home depot, 5 ft lengths, free ship to store.

Another benefit to a pump housing tote is I could run clear tubing in there, the 2 inch clear sites too.. If i pickup a matching 15 gal husky tote I could flush mount 2 of those waterways into the lid, and make a seperate access lid to get down into the pumps.

The cheapest I seen is 50$ for one but I think that is just the housing part, nothing else. I am sold on the idea though. As far as DIY I was thinking a larger diameter PVC or even a bucket. It's no more complex than the system I'm building really.. But yea I can salvage a few from old tubs.

In the meantime I might just run the 3/4's y's for a cycle until I can source out housings. Maybe even just one side of the room with dual strainers to start with. I just found out that the ones UC use have an 80 mesh, so I was thinking i could use a needle and poke some holes into the 200 mesh screens I got.

They would be inverted but all the systems I see are too, not ideal for backwashing out the cap really. Look at the 3-5k multi site alien systems, the use 1 little 3/4 strainer between every row on long runs.

But ya I was thinking I could shut down both systems, turn some extra valves, and use a separate little container with that old sureflow diagphram rv pump I got still to back wash them both at the same time. Not the main pumps.

Sounds like I won't be able to do that with the spa filters without a 3 horse lol. Seen some pretty nifty spa Filter cleaning contraptions on youtube...

I wouldn't mind building a housing round the walmart pool filters though. $24 for a 12 pack, or they carry 2 packs for 3.99 locally:




lol the housings are rediculous though. They even come coupled with pumps for like 50-60$. I wonder if any one has ran one..

Maybe I could just mount the filter to the inside of the last bulk head, inside the container. Cap the other end and just let the roots grow right around it (probably through it though). As low as possible for drainage of the system.

Well, basically thats what I wanted to do for a simple DIY filter, but in a different smaller bucket without plants. It would be bulky unless I could seal the lid. Smaller the better.

I think I have a plan that could work right now, with those filters. Low pro ones would be better.

I could make the plumbing go underneath it, use a smaller 90 inside of a larger Y, with a reverse bushing or something. Seems like no matter what the actual filter outlet will be around the same height as the top of the main manifolds.

Drop That Sound said:

Ya 2" will be a good upgrade from 1 1/4" on my previous systems. I always would be reaching down in there and making sure, sometimes pulling a few feelers out. It will suck to have to lay on so I def wanna keep the plumbing off to the sides.

I actually feel more confident with a long 2" run before the filter because well, haven't seen too many 4 ft + long roots. Double the bulkheads would be nice too, I make them pretty cheap.

And for sure, was thinking of cutting a few 3-4 inch long clear tubes coupled in here and there, especially after the return bulkheads and before filter would be sweet. Thats around 2'' after the couplers are glued. They actually have up to 1 1/4" at home depot, 5 ft lengths, free ship to store.

Another benefit to a pump housing tote is I could run clear tubing in there, the 2 inch clear sites too.. If i pickup a matching 15 gal husky tote I could flush mount 2 of those waterways into the lid, and make a seperate access lid to get down into the pumps.

The cheapest I seen is 50$ for one but I think that is just the housing part, nothing else. I am sold on the idea though. As far as DIY I was thinking a larger diameter PVC or even a bucket. It's no more complex than the system I'm building really.. But yea I can salvage a few from old tubs.

In the meantime I might just run the 3/4's y's for a cycle until I can source out housings. Maybe even just one side of the room with dual strainers to start with. I just found out that the ones UC use have an 80 mesh, so I was thinking i could use a needle and poke some holes into the 200 mesh screens I got.

They would be inverted but all the systems I see are too, not ideal for backwashing out the cap really. Look at the 3-5k multi site alien systems, the use 1 little 3/4 strainer between every row on long runs.

But ya I was thinking I could shut down both systems, turn some extra valves, and use a separate little container with that old sureflow diagphram rv pump I got still to back wash them both at the same time. Not the main pumps.

Sounds like I won't be able to do that with the spa filters without a 3 horse lol. Seen some pretty nifty spa Filter cleaning contraptions on youtube...

Click to expand...

no no. spa filters are TINY.

when i mentioned 3hp i was talking about backwashing MASSIVE sand and DE filters for large pools.

pool filters are literally like 24" by 60" tall with 48,64 or 80 square square feet of grid. to back wash those you need lots of flow.

these little ones though, are much less. i think the rule of thumb is like 5-10 GPM per square foot of cross section. again though this is for media filtration not straight up cartriges.

also remember that pool filter grids are hollow with the water flowing into them and out of the grid manifold on top or on bottom... so when you backwash the flow reverses and the grids literally expand out like a baloon sloughing off caked on DE or zeolite. a cartrige filter will NOT expand like that though, so backwashing will be less effective off the bat.

IDK if you really can even back wash a non de/zeolite cartrige though. it seems to me that the crud and particles are going to be seated into the filter media directly as opposed to being entrained in a layer of DE or zeolite or even sand.

im sure it helps, but there is no media on the cartrige so its probably not going to do much compared to media filtration.

this is the cartrige that i have btw. idk if they got more expensive, or if got a stupid good deal or something. i bought it new on ebay, so maby its the latter.

https://www.spaandpoolsource.com/waterwayfilter50sqfttopload15inchwbypass.aspx

i thought these things were much cheaper, maby its not worth pursuing at 100 bucks... IDK.

your idea of using the shurflow pump to back wash would probably work on a small diameter strainer... but on a larger cartrige probably not, but who knows.

remember when you back wash, you need to fully reverse the flow inbetween each back wash.

back wash -rinse -back wash- rinse. repeat untill you dont see anything.

the rinse line needs to be tied into the backwash line so you would eventually need another valve on the return and rinse... or you can buy a jandy 3 way valve. i think they are like 18 bucks for a 1.5" and a bit more for 2".

its best to put a sight glass on the back was line so you can see when you are finished. in your case it might be hard to see little particulates and junk though. when you backwash a DE filter there is a storm of white DE poweder blowing past the sight glass... when the poweder is gone you repeat untill you see almost none.

try it out before you spend anything on valves though. i dont think backwashign is going to be a panacea in your case. interesting experiment though.

edit: btw, backwashing wastes quite alot of water. idk if you have done the math on this, but it sounds like you only have a few hundred gallons maximum.

Drop That Sound said:

I wouldn't mind building a housing round the walmart pool filters though. $24 for a 12 pack, or they carry 2 packs for 3.99 locally:

View ImageView Image


lol the housings are rediculous though. They even come coupled with pumps for like 50-60$. I wonder if any one has ran one..


View ImageView Image

Click to expand...

i dont know abything about that filter... but i bet you could scrap the pump inside that thing and just run the filter?

im guessing that pump is way to much for you.

idk about building your own. you would need gaskets and shit to seat and seal the cartriges.

maby you could turn some PVC pipe to the diameter of the inside of the cartrige though. then ram the pvc in and plug the top opening.

idk just spit balling, but thats probably how i would do it. at least then you would not need to hold the cartrige down against a seal.

Hmm.. for $29.95


Just relax in your pool, and let the Intex 330 GPH Filter Pump take care of the filtration. This cartridge filter pump is the best little work horse you'll find to keep your pool sparking clean.
This pump is hassle free, and easy to install- simply hook-up the hoses. Release the air trapped inside the filter chamber with the air release valve, and plug the pump in for fresh, clean, filtered pool water. Equipped with the Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter, which is an added safety feature that shuts off the pump if electrical current is exposed to water. Use with a maximum pool size of 1,018 gallons.

• Quick and easy installation - connect the hoses and plug the pump into a 110-120V power outlet
• Filters up to 330 gallons of water per hour
• Release the air trapped inside the filter chamber with the air release valve, and plug the pump in for fresh, clean, filtered pool water.
• Equipped with the Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter, an added safety feature that shuts off the pump if electrical current is exposed to water.
• Use with a maximum pool size of 1,018 gallons.
• This system has a flow rate of 300 gph and a pump flow rate of 330 gph.
• Compatible with the Type H filter cartridges, Intex part number 29007E (one included!)
• Part #: 28601EG
• Warranty: 1-year Intex Warranty

They also make a 530 GPH... I like the way the 1500+ ones are configured with the pump off to the side.



Suppose you could cut the power down to 25% to control the flow? Or use the extra head for waterfalls for your DO. Pump/Filter/Air all in one little inexpensive unit!





EDIT: Looks like easy access to the pump on the 330, I could cut it down and scrap the pump, or even move it off to the side if its a decent pump. $ 60 for 2 of those, and 2.00 filters would be cheap. I don't like any plumbing to be above the 2 inch mark but I could still work with it..

Yep just the shurflow for strainers, was thinking like 2-4 gallons max, one way and just enough to dislodge any big stuff from the screen. Honestly I shouldn't need to anyway but it would be nice. I will expirement for sure.



Another reason I want remote res on the new system is because I hate opening lids in there. Always get leaves dropping in, no matter where the res is. I would make little skimmers with a bottle and filter floss but thats a PITA. I feel better about having filters\strainers knowing I won't be dropping crap into the res all the time.






I think my best option to get the show on the road is to just oversize my pump house, for future upgrades. Spa\Pool filters in mind. Use whatever I can come up with soon.



All plumbing inside it will be clear as it will be light proof. Also the bulkheads will be sealed in case the pump ever leaked, but doubt that would be an issue. I could even ventilate it on a closed loop later if I want to run sealed, stuff the air pumps inside.



Going to make sure it will fit first.. BTW my flooring job got more complicated, repairing an old leak in the wall nearby, and re flooring the whole main work room too.







I got a new device so I can take pictures finally, be back soon with the good stuff!

it looks like you could just abandon the pump itself if you wanted to.

idk if you could actually remove it though without resorting to janky JB weld and other shit like that.

either way they look cheap as fuck. I would not use them personally... but who knows.

Update: will be plumbing soon and provide lots more pictures and details about the build.


Until then here are some pics of what i'm workin with..

You can see where I will be plumbing through the wall, through the splash and into the cabinet on the other side.

The floor will be waterproof as soon as I seal it up, my veg and other area's all the same