Something wicked this way comes

newguy41410 · Apr 2, 2017

delta9nxs said:
chess used to be my game! i liked it because it represented an infinite challenge. mentally stimulating.

now i got a new game!

i'm headed the same way as you looking for small organic inputs that enhance flavor.

in the world of extracts and concentrates terps rule.

we recently took took a bunch of plushberry whole untrimmed bud and ran it through a crude, fast bho extraction. then had that made into the clear but had the terps saved on the side after the fractionating and then added them back in.

the flavor was outrageous. and that was with jack's and calcinit only. imagine what we can do with small organic inputs added.

a close friend of mine and I have a mutual friend who shared some of his Clementine concentrate with us. Smoked a dab of it and it was PURE TERPENTINE HEAVEN.. tasted like straight tangerines. I have never experienced such tastiness in a smoke. Later on i was talking to my close friend about how those dabs were so flavorful they MUST HAVE had terpenes infused into them somehow. Do you know what process(es) are taken to "catch the terps" and put them back in? Is it true the terps are basically distilled away as steam and separated during vacuum purging? or something like that?

delta9nxs · Apr 3, 2017

newguy41410 said:
a close friend of mine and I have a mutual friend who shared some of his Clementine concentrate with us. Smoked a dab of it and it was PURE TERPENTINE HEAVEN.. tasted like straight tangerines. I have never experienced such tastiness in a smoke. Later on i was talking to my close friend about how those dabs were so flavorful they MUST HAVE had terpenes infused into them somehow. Do you know what process(es) are taken to "catch the terps" and put them back in? Is it true the terps are basically distilled away as steam and separated during vacuum purging? or something like that?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fractionation

this is how the "clear" is made. i am not an expert but apparently all the cannabinoids and terpenoids boil off at different temperatures and can be captured separately.

delta9nxs · Apr 8, 2017

just some general purpose progress shots. we now have 13 out of 16 positions filled in flower. quest dual 155 running balls to the wall 24/7 and not quite getting it. i will have to add another dehuey here.

first one is the "el chapo". we don't know anything about it except that it tested at 31.4%. going into flower in about 4 more days.

2 pics from opposite ends of the veg room showing the expansion from 14 to 20 sites to keep up with demand from the new flower room.

then a bunch of flower room shots. most are from the original group flowered on 3/7 so yesterday was 31 days.

delta9nxs · Apr 8, 2017

Earlmarne · Apr 8, 2017

Think I'm going to start trying to rig something like this up for my next vert scrog run

Miraculous Meds · Apr 8, 2017

What's up d9, and the rest of the ppk crew!

I'm having a bit of a ph problem in my flower. I was using my well water which had to many bicarbonate causing the ph to drift up to 6.7 and the plants would display lockout. So I installed a new ro system. I use tupur cut with an extra 25% chunky perlite . I water the veg dtw, currently... going to get it on ppk in the near future though. I start with solos, then 1 gal, 2 gal, and end with 5 gal buckets for flowering. I'm using the traditional bucket, cause the wide 7 gal tubs take up too much space for my area. When the 5 gal plants r well rooted I'm watering by hand at least twice a day. Then when I flip to flower they get watered every 3 to 4 hours depending on if they can handle it without overwatering symptoms. When they start sailing along i work the frequency down to 2 hours, and thats when i notice the ph drop n ec rise. I input .8 to 1 ec. They spike to 2.2 ec n drop as low as 4.8ph, before I caught it n adjusted. I'm backing off the watering frequency to 3 to 4 hour intervals to see if they will stabilize, considering it might be an overwatering problem. I'm thinking maybe my different bucket dimensions, or my veg routine doesn't allow me to water as frequently as ur setup does.

So I'm wondering if u see anywhere I could improve my process to fix this problem. Could my low ec be contributing here. I'm running a 1000w mh in the middle of a 10' room with with 4 600w hps in the corners for a total of 3400w, in a roughly 80 sq ft foot print. Temps n rh r solid between 74 to 82f, and 45 to 70%.

Here's some old pics that show a little bit of room layout, n plant shape. These ones were being flushed n I think on the old high ph well water. I'll try n get some new pics up of the plants using ro water with the low ph problem, but they display burnt tips curling upward, calcium n magnesium deficiencies.

gmanwho · Apr 8, 2017

Awesome D9. looks like they plants are healthy at all stages. Good work!!

Envious of all the room you have to get around the plants.

p0opstlnksal0t · Apr 8, 2017

D9, any guess as to what you will yield per plant? what lights are you running in this room?

lightuptheherb · Apr 8, 2017

wow! Indoor Farming

down2grow · Apr 8, 2017

delta9nxs said:
this shows the plumbing into the first reservoir. two float valves as one could have trouble keeping up with demand.

into this first tank out of sight behind the container is plumbed the return lines from both the veg and flower sides.

the first line against the wall with the elbow is the sole return line from 16 plant sites in flower.

the second line out from the wall is the return line from all the veg sites.

the third line out is the nutrient supply line from the volume/mixing tanks. you will notice a valve in line past the float feed connections. this valve allows you to bypass the floats and load solution at a much higher speed when refilling the system.

there are multiple drain points with valves set up in such a way as to allow partial or total draining of each part of the system. for instance the flower system, veg system, and the reservoirs themselves can all be drained individually or simultaneously as needed.

so we have the nutrient input and the return lines from each part of the system entering reservoir #1 and mixing through all seven tubs before exiting the last in line to supply the plants.

if we are pulsing 1/2 gal every 90 minutes with 28 sites that puts 224 gals per day through the reservoirs.

that's all for now.

Delta,

What parts did you use to reduce from the garden hose to the smaller hose that's connected to the float valves? I was just at home depot and they didn't have anothing like that. The little tube is 1/4 tubing?

Post #5 on page 1

delta9nxs · Apr 9, 2017

down2grow said:
Delta,

What parts did you use to reduce from the garden hose to the smaller hose that's connected to the float valves? I was just at home depot and they didn't have anothing like that. The little tube is 1/4 tubing?

Post #5 on page 1

what you are looking at is a 1/2" hose barb to 1/2" mpt fitting with a 1/2" threaded pvc cap screwed on with some teflon tape. a 5/16" hole is drilled through the center of the cap. i use the hydrofarm soft black vinyl 3/8" od from grow stores. cut the tubing at a sharp angle and push it through from the inside until you can grab it with a pair of pliers. they never leak!

you should install the tubing before you thread the cap on.

the hose barb fitting is in the same spot as the hose barb T's and L's.

delta9nxs · Apr 9, 2017

Miraculous Meds said:
What's up d9, and the rest of the ppk crew!

I'm having a bit of a ph problem in my flower. I was using my well water which had to many bicarbonate causing the ph to drift up to 6.7 and the plants would display lockout. So I installed a new ro system. I use tupur cut with an extra 25% chunky perlite . I water the veg dtw, currently... going to get it on ppk in the near future though. I start with solos, then 1 gal, 2 gal, and end with 5 gal buckets for flowering. I'm using the traditional bucket, cause the wide 7 gal tubs take up too much space for my area. When the 5 gal plants r well rooted I'm watering by hand at least twice a day. Then when I flip to flower they get watered every 3 to 4 hours depending on if they can handle it without overwatering symptoms. When they start sailing along i work the frequency down to 2 hours, and thats when i notice the ph drop n ec rise. I input .8 to 1 ec. They spike to 2.2 ec n drop as low as 4.8ph, before I caught it n adjusted. I'm backing off the watering frequency to 3 to 4 hour intervals to see if they will stabilize, considering it might be an overwatering problem. I'm thinking maybe my different bucket dimensions, or my veg routine doesn't allow me to water as frequently as ur setup does.

So I'm wondering if u see anywhere I could improve my process to fix this problem. Could my low ec be contributing here. I'm running a 1000w mh in the middle of a 10' room with with 4 600w hps in the corners for a total of 3400w, in a roughly 80 sq ft foot print. Temps n rh r solid between 74 to 82f, and 45 to 70%.

Here's some old pics that show a little bit of room layout, n plant shape. These ones were being flushed n I think on the old high ph well water. I'll try n get some new pics up of the plants using ro water with the low ph problem, but they display burnt tips curling upward, calcium n magnesium deficiencies.

View Image
View Image
View Image

"thats when i notice the ph drop n ec rise."

this happens in all unit ppk grows about 2.5 weeks into flower as the plants change to a flowering uptake profile from a vegetative one.

i steer from the mixing/volume tank at this point. stop using ph down in the mixing tank for a while. and it's ok to let the solution get up to about 1250 ppm at .5 or ec 2.5 and then steer it back down with a weaker solution. i start getting a little tip burn above this level.

when you make the changes in the volume tank there is no immediate change in the recirculating part. no ph shock.

you can induce a little ph drift by using ph down every other load of nutrients.

those are some nice big plants! thank you!

Boutique Manettino · Apr 9, 2017

delta9nxs · Apr 9, 2017

gmanwho said:
Awesome D9. looks like they plants are healthy at all stages. Good work!!

Envious of all the room you have to get around the plants.

thanks!

i am trying to streamline all labor events and keep them of short duration. no marathon sessions.

provide plenty of room to work comfortably on an ongoing, continuous basis.

by the way, i've got four rooted female cuttings of the stardawg x c99. i took the tops off the seedlings and rooted them while i test flowered the bottoms.

i had 12 beans with 7 male and 5 female. one rooted slow and was weak looking compared to the others so i culled it.

one of the four is showing pistils already in veg. fertile myrtle. it has never seen darkness.

it will be the first one to transplant.

delta9nxs · Apr 9, 2017

p0opstlnksal0t said:
D9, any guess as to what you will yield per plant? what lights are you running in this room?

don't have a clue! this is my first real scrog. but i'm impressed by the bud quality and density thus far.

they are sunlight supply ac/de's with mostly philips greenpower bulbs.

delta9nxs · Apr 9, 2017

Boutique Manettino said:
just beautiful man!

View Image

I've been waiting for someone to post pictures like this.....

full on SCROG done by a pro.... proper overhead lighting... environment dialled... automated irrigation.

pretty sure you're going to be very satisfied by the quality, if not outright surprised by the yield. (unless you've done a bunch of secret testing and already know what's coming )

have to see what things look like in another 4 to 5 weeks (about when I'm guessing you're gonna chop)... you may find you can go another week in veg with the screens and lights at that exact height... and you'll get even taller colas... but then I know you're keeping a very, very watchful eye for scorch and probably feel you're gambling already...

that's the fun of SCROG... never know exactly how far you can push things before flip.

nice pre screen training in veg by the way. nice domed tops on those plants. full canopy but not too much height. pro shit right there.

for anyone reading thru this (now or later on).... Delta9nxs' plants here might not look as big as the massive trees posted so many times before by himself and others.... but while large trees that are both wide AND tall look "fuller" etc... and without a doubt have many buds....

what he's doing here in those pics.... that's solid bud. nothing more. theres a bit of stem below the canopy and of course the PPK module but when these plants are done it's going to be insane.

wow.

thanks for noticing! i'm hardly a pro scrogger, though. i've missed the flip window on a couple. too early and too late but i'm getting the hang of it.

i intend to improve the veg training to make them flatter and wider still. we put a tangie in last night that was only 26" above the medium but fully 4' wide.

still refining the process timing so we never have blank sites.

the first 6 that you have seen were trained in the classic scrog tech of pulling the branches under the screen from hole to hole. then some tying down from the top. we still need to do another final round of tying and then bring the lights down to about 1200 umols at the tops. letting them grow into a more intense light field as they finish.

they also need some more underbrush removed.

but with the newer ones lately i have been letting them just grow up and through the screen about 10 days and then arcing them over and tying them down on top of the screen in a radiating pattern like spokes of a wheel. i feel i will get a more even, uniform canopy this way.

i still don't know if i'm going to need a second screen or not.

if anyone has any scrog tricks up their sleeves i could use some pointers.

gh0stm0de · Apr 9, 2017

Not into ppk, but i have to ask....off the title...

EQ?

You would have benfitted by second screen but too late imo to properly add a useful one now. Tie them bitches up if they get their lean on imo at this point . Good luck my man

gmanwho · Apr 9, 2017

delta9nxs said:
thanks!

i am trying to streamline all labor events and keep them of short duration. no marathon sessions.

provide plenty of room to work comfortably on an ongoing, continuous basis.

by the way, i've got four rooted female cuttings of the stardawg x c99. i took the tops off the seedlings and rooted them while i test flowered the bottoms.

i had 12 beans with 7 male and 5 female. one rooted slow and was weak looking compared to the others so i culled it.

one of the four is showing pistils already in veg. fertile myrtle. it has never seen darkness.

it will be the first one to transplant.

i like the constant slow work load approach. wish i could go that route.

lotta males in that ratio. hopefully those 5 make up for the loss chances. as for the mutant not sure what to say. ive found that there is a chance it couldve snapped out of it. i let things go on the back burner till i need the room. had it happen on mulitple occasions so i choose to let them go.

shouldve seen the yumbolt diesel cross i just culled finally. waited 4 months an it never snapped out, while one of its siblings did. i guess sometimes it comes down to how many seedlings or chances you have to make something happen from those genetics. an with only 6 sprouts left from an 8-10yr old pack i'll wait. but that wasnt the case with those stardawg x c99.

looking forward to seeing your progress.

bwell

delta9nxs · Apr 9, 2017

gh0stm0de said:
Not into ppk, but i have to ask....off the title...

EQ?

You would have benfitted by second screen but too late imo to properly add a useful one now. Tie them bitches up if they get their lean on imo at this point . Good luck my man

howdy! i think i can still get another net on them. the top of the vertical 2x4's is 6 inches above the current screen level. i can go from there or i can add a bracket or extension to get more height.

this is a wicked device with a wicked pulse and i thought it deserves a wicked title so i stole it from;

delta9nxs · Apr 9, 2017

gmanwho said:
i like the constant slow work load approach. wish i could go that route.

lotta males in that ratio. hopefully those 5 make up for the loss chances. as for the mutant not sure what to say. ive found that there is a chance it couldve snapped out of it. i let things go on the back burner till i need the room. had it happen on mulitple occasions so i choose to let them go.

shouldve seen the yumbolt diesel cross i just culled finally. waited 4 months an it never snapped out, while one of its siblings did. i guess sometimes it comes down to how many seedlings or chances you have to make something happen from those genetics. an with only 6 sprouts left from an 8-10yr old pack i'll wait. but that wasnt the case with those stardawg x c99.

looking forward to seeing your progress.

bwell

i've got a great crew of people helping me and i want to provide a comfortable, safe place for them to work.

fertile myrtle looks like she wants to do it!

Something wicked this way comes

Member

No Jive Productions

No Jive Productions

Attachments

No Jive Productions

Attachments

Member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Active member

Member

Member

No Jive Productions

Attachments

No Jive Productions

Member

No Jive Productions

No Jive Productions

No Jive Productions

Active member

Well-known member

No Jive Productions

Attachments

No Jive Productions