G
Guest
scrog it 
grow it
chop it
smoke it
repeat...fillin in nicely
grow it
chop it
smoke it
repeat...fillin in nicely
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Mr Micro Presents : The Nanomachine
- Thread starter Mr_Micro
- Start date
Mr_Micro
Member
Time for another update!
First off, lemme take a second here to respond to the people who have commented since my last update
Crazed - Glad the update timing worked out for you and thanks for the props on the box! It sure is a fun little grow setup and definately the most fun I've had growing a plant so far. It's no serious producer, thats for sure, but for a weekend smoker this should provide enough for 1 or 2 smokes each weekend for the 3 months inbetween grows. Best of luck on your future grow and keep us updated on it!
Smoke68 - 
microRU - I have clue what your talkin about, but right on man! Thanks for the positive comments and the suggestions!
Rkone - You said it brother man!
Now lets see here... the pics for this update were taken yesterday, which was day 38 of 12/12 from seed, so I'm estimating that it's around day 28 of flowering. Some lower sets of leaves were starting to get a little yellowish so I went out and bought a new bottle of PBP Soil Formula (since my old bottle went bad when the closet it was stored in got up to around 95*F one day, I'm now storing my PBP in the fridge).
So yesterday I mixed up a gallon of good filtered R/O water with 1/2 ounce of PBP Bloom Soil Formula and 1 tablespoon of organic blackstrap molasses. Hopefully the nutrient boost from this feeding will turn the yellowing lower leaves back to a nice shade of green within the next few days. I'll be giving the plant nutrients every other watering, so next watering will be plain water, and then nutrients the next watering, then plain water, then nutrients, etc.
Since temps are a reasonable 83* or so when the lights are on it generally takes 3 or 4 days for the soil to dry out enough to need watering, so it will be a long slow cycle.
Anyhoo, enough babbling! Here's the new pics...
And oh yeah, one more thing I wanted to mention...
At this point this Bubblegum girl is reaaaaaally starting to stink! I mean, every time I open the PC case door I get hit by a big rush of skunk funk!
But the Suga_Bear style carbon filter is working exceptionally well and has completely filtered out all the odor in the air being exhausted from the case.
So so far so good on the carbon filter! The smell is getting darn strong inside the case, but the Suga Bear style carbon filter has been completely preventing any odor from escaping the case so far.
We'll see if this carbon filter will last the entire grow, but so far so good!
Until next time, stay safe and grow smart my friends.
First off, lemme take a second here to respond to the people who have commented since my last update
Crazed - Glad the update timing worked out for you and thanks for the props on the box! It sure is a fun little grow setup and definately the most fun I've had growing a plant so far. It's no serious producer, thats for sure, but for a weekend smoker this should provide enough for 1 or 2 smokes each weekend for the 3 months inbetween grows. Best of luck on your future grow and keep us updated on it!
Smoke68 -
microRU - I have clue what your talkin about, but right on man! Thanks for the positive comments and the suggestions!
Rkone - You said it brother man!
Now lets see here... the pics for this update were taken yesterday, which was day 38 of 12/12 from seed, so I'm estimating that it's around day 28 of flowering. Some lower sets of leaves were starting to get a little yellowish so I went out and bought a new bottle of PBP Soil Formula (since my old bottle went bad when the closet it was stored in got up to around 95*F one day, I'm now storing my PBP in the fridge).
So yesterday I mixed up a gallon of good filtered R/O water with 1/2 ounce of PBP Bloom Soil Formula and 1 tablespoon of organic blackstrap molasses. Hopefully the nutrient boost from this feeding will turn the yellowing lower leaves back to a nice shade of green within the next few days. I'll be giving the plant nutrients every other watering, so next watering will be plain water, and then nutrients the next watering, then plain water, then nutrients, etc.
Since temps are a reasonable 83* or so when the lights are on it generally takes 3 or 4 days for the soil to dry out enough to need watering, so it will be a long slow cycle.
Anyhoo, enough babbling! Here's the new pics...
And oh yeah, one more thing I wanted to mention...
At this point this Bubblegum girl is reaaaaaally starting to stink! I mean, every time I open the PC case door I get hit by a big rush of skunk funk!
But the Suga_Bear style carbon filter is working exceptionally well and has completely filtered out all the odor in the air being exhausted from the case.
So so far so good on the carbon filter! The smell is getting darn strong inside the case, but the Suga Bear style carbon filter has been completely preventing any odor from escaping the case so far.
We'll see if this carbon filter will last the entire grow, but so far so good!
Until next time, stay safe and grow smart my friends.
thecarguy
Member
Mr Micro-
I think MicroRU is trying to suggest that you mount the CFL socket on the opposite side, so as to add another computer fan above the existing unit.
microRU-
the problem with that idea is all the electrical is wired on that side, plus adding another fan would instigate building another carbon filter.
I think if his temps are at 83 he's doin' fine. they'll go down as the plant gets larger and starts absorbing more light, in my experience.
Good growing Micro, it's nice to see you haven't left ICMag.
I think MicroRU is trying to suggest that you mount the CFL socket on the opposite side, so as to add another computer fan above the existing unit.
microRU-
the problem with that idea is all the electrical is wired on that side, plus adding another fan would instigate building another carbon filter.
I think if his temps are at 83 he's doin' fine. they'll go down as the plant gets larger and starts absorbing more light, in my experience.
Good growing Micro, it's nice to see you haven't left ICMag.
microRU
Member
yesthecarguy said:
The filter can be made any form or to install from a kitchen extract or avto
I doubt, that the bear filter to cope with a problem of a smell when there will be a flowering
Mine MicroStealth"Romanticism" is very similar in the sizes, the volume of the chamber flowering is little bit less, the external volume is little bit more.. A photo in gallery.. 11gr/64Days
Grow report In Russian, registration..
http://olk-peace.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25154&start=75
Mr_Micro
Member
It's been a few days since my last update so I think it's time for another peek into The Nanomachine to see how our Bubblegum girl is doing
But as usual, before I get to the update I'll take a minute to respond to those who have commented in the thread.
Thecarguy - Hey man! It certainly is good to be back and doing another fun little micro grow!
I do understand now what MicroRU is suggesting, and I actually tried it already! During the course of building this case I tried having two fans built into the wall in the middle of the case and the light socket on the other side, but honestly the temps were much worse than they are now! Temps were averaging around 95*F (or 35*C for anyone outside of the US) with that setup, whereas my temps are now always around 83*F to 88*F (28*C to 31*C).
I think there are two reasons for why MicroRU's idea didn't work out in this box of mine. The first reason is that your exhast fans can only push out as much air as your intake lets in. And I could only make my intake so big without compromising the stealthiness of the case, since I couldn't make the light trap any bigger than what would fit in the front facade of the case. So the exhaust power with 2 fans running still wouldn't be much more than what I already have going, since my intake is just big enough to allow for enough airflow for one fan.
The second reason is that by having an exhaust fan placed directly underneath the ballast of the CFL it allows the fan to exhaust out most of the heat from the CFL before it has a chance to disperse into the rest of the case and build up. We know that most of the heat that is generated by a CFL come from the ballast, so if you have your exhast fan right underneath the ballast you will be able to remove most of the heat being generated by the CFL before it ever has a chance to spread into the rest of the growing chamber!
MicroRU - Great lookin speaker grow you have going there comrade!
Very nice looking results too, especially considering that your stealth cabinet is even smaller than mine!
As far as my carbon filter goes it continues to work wonderfully. It kills all the smell from the plant in the air being exhausted out of the case, so 100% stealth so far. I think it will last the entire grow, but we'll just have to wait and see to find out for sure. If your intrested in the design of the carbon filter you can check it out here ----> http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=48949
I too was a little skeptical of how well it would work at first, but when you look at it you see that it is basicly just a scaled down small version of the big Can Filter carbon filters that you see in hydroponic stores. The design principles are the same, just on a smaller scale. And it holds a suprisingly large ammount of activated carbon too, so I really do think it will last the entire grow and be a complete success
Now that the responses are taken care of, time for our bi-weekly update! It is now day 41 of 12/12 from seed, so I estimate that it's right around day 31 of flowering. The plant showed sex at day 20, so I figure the actual flowering time started at about day 10. Anyway...
As you can see the ScrOG'ing is coming along quite nicely! Each bud site and branch is getting it's own individual square in the screen and I think the ScrOG method as a whole is proving to be extremely effective in this situation. (Plus it's cool for me because I am incredibly lazy and ScrOG'ing has turned out to be waaaay easier and less time consuming than LST'ing
). I'm now starting to train the main stem to grow under the screen in a sideways "U" shape, which will allow me to save a lot of vertical height and get a really dense canopy in a very small area. Normally this would be very difficult to do using the LST method, but the sturdiness of this ScrOG screen makes it really easy to do.
I am starting to get a touch worried about some of the lower leaves and fan leaves though. It's difficult to tell from the picture (maybe I'll take another one in a few days with the CFL turned off for better color rendition) but the bottom two sets of leaves are turning seriously yellow and two of the fan leaves are getting really yellow too.
In my experiance with hydro this always ment that it was too low on nitrogen, so I've been giving the plant nutrients (PBP Bloom Soil Formula at 1/2 ounce per gallon) at every watering lately but it's just not snapping back. So I'm wondering if maybe I should start stepping it up to 3/4 ounces per gallon to bring some green back into those leaves. And I don't think it's a calcium or magnesium problem since I added 1 tablespoon of dolmetic lime to the gallon of soil I mixed up, and I think that should be plenty of Cal/Mag to keep the plant supplied through flowering.
Anyhoo, thats all for now! I'll update again with more pics in the next three or four days.
Until then, stay safe and grow smart my friends
But as usual, before I get to the update I'll take a minute to respond to those who have commented in the thread.
Thecarguy - Hey man! It certainly is good to be back and doing another fun little micro grow!
I do understand now what MicroRU is suggesting, and I actually tried it already! During the course of building this case I tried having two fans built into the wall in the middle of the case and the light socket on the other side, but honestly the temps were much worse than they are now! Temps were averaging around 95*F (or 35*C for anyone outside of the US) with that setup, whereas my temps are now always around 83*F to 88*F (28*C to 31*C).
I think there are two reasons for why MicroRU's idea didn't work out in this box of mine. The first reason is that your exhast fans can only push out as much air as your intake lets in. And I could only make my intake so big without compromising the stealthiness of the case, since I couldn't make the light trap any bigger than what would fit in the front facade of the case. So the exhaust power with 2 fans running still wouldn't be much more than what I already have going, since my intake is just big enough to allow for enough airflow for one fan.
The second reason is that by having an exhaust fan placed directly underneath the ballast of the CFL it allows the fan to exhaust out most of the heat from the CFL before it has a chance to disperse into the rest of the case and build up. We know that most of the heat that is generated by a CFL come from the ballast, so if you have your exhast fan right underneath the ballast you will be able to remove most of the heat being generated by the CFL before it ever has a chance to spread into the rest of the growing chamber!
MicroRU - Great lookin speaker grow you have going there comrade!
Very nice looking results too, especially considering that your stealth cabinet is even smaller than mine!
As far as my carbon filter goes it continues to work wonderfully. It kills all the smell from the plant in the air being exhausted out of the case, so 100% stealth so far. I think it will last the entire grow, but we'll just have to wait and see to find out for sure. If your intrested in the design of the carbon filter you can check it out here ----> http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=48949
I too was a little skeptical of how well it would work at first, but when you look at it you see that it is basicly just a scaled down small version of the big Can Filter carbon filters that you see in hydroponic stores. The design principles are the same, just on a smaller scale. And it holds a suprisingly large ammount of activated carbon too, so I really do think it will last the entire grow and be a complete success
Now that the responses are taken care of, time for our bi-weekly update! It is now day 41 of 12/12 from seed, so I estimate that it's right around day 31 of flowering. The plant showed sex at day 20, so I figure the actual flowering time started at about day 10. Anyway...
As you can see the ScrOG'ing is coming along quite nicely! Each bud site and branch is getting it's own individual square in the screen and I think the ScrOG method as a whole is proving to be extremely effective in this situation. (Plus it's cool for me because I am incredibly lazy and ScrOG'ing has turned out to be waaaay easier and less time consuming than LST'ing
). I'm now starting to train the main stem to grow under the screen in a sideways "U" shape, which will allow me to save a lot of vertical height and get a really dense canopy in a very small area. Normally this would be very difficult to do using the LST method, but the sturdiness of this ScrOG screen makes it really easy to do.I am starting to get a touch worried about some of the lower leaves and fan leaves though. It's difficult to tell from the picture (maybe I'll take another one in a few days with the CFL turned off for better color rendition) but the bottom two sets of leaves are turning seriously yellow and two of the fan leaves are getting really yellow too.
In my experiance with hydro this always ment that it was too low on nitrogen, so I've been giving the plant nutrients (PBP Bloom Soil Formula at 1/2 ounce per gallon) at every watering lately but it's just not snapping back. So I'm wondering if maybe I should start stepping it up to 3/4 ounces per gallon to bring some green back into those leaves. And I don't think it's a calcium or magnesium problem since I added 1 tablespoon of dolmetic lime to the gallon of soil I mixed up, and I think that should be plenty of Cal/Mag to keep the plant supplied through flowering.
Anyhoo, thats all for now! I'll update again with more pics in the next three or four days.
Until then, stay safe and grow smart my friends
microRU
Member
The Regard friends
Mr_Micro, I see to you too more to like to make boxes, than Growing
The nonomachine design is well balanced, and I to think, that it is not necessary to alter it
But you already to think, above the new more absolute project?
Can different Chineses make
About the girl to think there is no magnesium. I too have passed with hidro to the ground and tested problems
IMHO It is necessary to take the big pot, to fix on him SCROG and to lift a plant more close to a lamp 3-5 cm.
Success to you and your girl :friend:
P.S.What is the LST'ing?
Mr_Micro, I see to you too more to like to make boxes, than Growing
The nonomachine design is well balanced, and I to think, that it is not necessary to alter it
But you already to think, above the new more absolute project?
I assumed to receive result twice more..Mr_Micro said:
Machines of one class, simply mine are more powerful. But temperature of 35-40*С Both of the fan work from 6 volt..Mr_Micro said:
At me the ballast is located separately from a flask, he absolutely coldMr_Micro said:
Can different Chineses make About the girl to think there is no magnesium. I too have passed with hidro to the ground and tested problems
IMHO It is necessary to take the big pot, to fix on him SCROG and to lift a plant more close to a lamp 3-5 cm.
Success to you and your girl :friend:
P.S.What is the LST'ing?
Mr.Bongowsky
Member
Hi Mr_Micro!
The Nanomachine is really great! Looks like a normal PC and that cables hehe. Great work, this been a lot of work for sure but what a result
I'm making a "U" shape with my plants too. I think the problem with your Bubblegum may be still too low nitrogen but if it isn't maybe it's caused by overwatering. But ,like i said, maybe...not sure.
So good luck with her and take care!
E: microRU, LST is some type of training using strings, check out this thread and you'll now everything ABC's and LST's
The Nanomachine is really great! Looks like a normal PC and that cables hehe. Great work, this been a lot of work for sure but what a result
I'm making a "U" shape with my plants too. I think the problem with your Bubblegum may be still too low nitrogen but if it isn't maybe it's caused by overwatering. But ,like i said, maybe...not sure.
So good luck with her and take care!
E: microRU, LST is some type of training using strings, check out this thread and you'll now everything ABC's and LST's
Last edited:
Mr_Micro
Member
Hey everyone!
It's now day 45 of 12/12 from seed (so I'd estimate it's around day 35 of flowering) and I'm experiencing what appears to be a nutrient deffinency (I'm thinkin nitrogen) that has me rather worried. I've been giving it 1/2 ounce of PBP Bloom Soil Formula and 1 tablespoon of organic blackstrap molasses per gallon of water every watering for the past 3 waterings to try and get it to perk up (and I know the PH of the water is between 5.8 and 6.5), but I'm still getting major yellowing in some of the fan leaves and it's got me rather worried.
Since this is my first soil grow (all my past grows have been hydro from the very begining) I'm kinda outta my element here so I'm turning to you guys for advice! This time I shut the light off while taking pics so you can see the coloration of the leaves a bit better to help diagnose the problem...
So it's lookin to me like it's a nitrogen problem... I'm pretty positive that it's not a calcium or magnesium problem since I mixed in 1 tablespoon of dolmetic lime per gallon of soil when I mixed up the soil before planting, so that should keep the cal/mag supply and PH balance good through the whole grow. What do you guys think?
Should I stop giving it nutrients every watering and only give nutrients once every other watering, or should I up the nutrient dosage to 1 ounce per gallon of water and continue giving it nutrients every watering until it perks up again? I've been watering it once every 2 or 3 days (usually 3) when the top inch or so of soil has dried out, so I'm pretty sure I'm not over watering it.
But Like I said, I'm an old hydro grower and this is my first time in soil so I'm a bit out of my element here. Anyway, hopefully some of you soil guys can give me some advice on what to do here!
P.S. ---> All the fan leaves seem reaaaally small to me. Is this normal for a soil grow? I know in all my past grows I've had gigantic fan leaves big enough to take up half the ScrOG screen, but those were all DWC grows. This time the leaves are all pretty small and I'm wondering if it might be due simply to the fact that I'm growing in soil now. Are small fan leaves like this normal for a soil grow?
It's now day 45 of 12/12 from seed (so I'd estimate it's around day 35 of flowering) and I'm experiencing what appears to be a nutrient deffinency (I'm thinkin nitrogen) that has me rather worried. I've been giving it 1/2 ounce of PBP Bloom Soil Formula and 1 tablespoon of organic blackstrap molasses per gallon of water every watering for the past 3 waterings to try and get it to perk up (and I know the PH of the water is between 5.8 and 6.5), but I'm still getting major yellowing in some of the fan leaves and it's got me rather worried.
Since this is my first soil grow (all my past grows have been hydro from the very begining) I'm kinda outta my element here so I'm turning to you guys for advice! This time I shut the light off while taking pics so you can see the coloration of the leaves a bit better to help diagnose the problem...
So it's lookin to me like it's a nitrogen problem... I'm pretty positive that it's not a calcium or magnesium problem since I mixed in 1 tablespoon of dolmetic lime per gallon of soil when I mixed up the soil before planting, so that should keep the cal/mag supply and PH balance good through the whole grow. What do you guys think?
Should I stop giving it nutrients every watering and only give nutrients once every other watering, or should I up the nutrient dosage to 1 ounce per gallon of water and continue giving it nutrients every watering until it perks up again? I've been watering it once every 2 or 3 days (usually 3) when the top inch or so of soil has dried out, so I'm pretty sure I'm not over watering it.
But Like I said, I'm an old hydro grower and this is my first time in soil so I'm a bit out of my element here. Anyway, hopefully some of you soil guys can give me some advice on what to do here!
P.S. ---> All the fan leaves seem reaaaally small to me. Is this normal for a soil grow? I know in all my past grows I've had gigantic fan leaves big enough to take up half the ScrOG screen, but those were all DWC grows. This time the leaves are all pretty small and I'm wondering if it might be due simply to the fact that I'm growing in soil now. Are small fan leaves like this normal for a soil grow?
G
Guest
when i confined my plant in the micro cab its almost like knew the size of the space it was in, the fans didnt bow out into enormous branches with huge fingers, they stayed relatively compact.
and if you add some urine to your premixed pbp bloom at a ratio of 1pee:10solution you should be able to resolve that nitrogen def. fairly easily.
and if you add some urine to your premixed pbp bloom at a ratio of 1pee:10solution you should be able to resolve that nitrogen def. fairly easily.
microRU
Member
Hi, Mr. Micro
Pay attention on correct having watered! At a plant the bottom roots deliver water, and top oxygen and nutritious elements. You wet the top layer, the bottom roots do not have not enough water, and top some oxygen.
I used a pot without holes of 5 liters. At the bottom 3см. The cured substratum (Ph 5,5) Watered only on edge 100-400 гр. Every day with ½ dozes of fertilizers for Hidro + Mg.. It is very bad, that you cannot measure weight of a pot..
In this magazine, dear Cheshire_Cat, Too uses pots of 1 liter and writes, how many it uses waters and fertilizers at each updating...
http://olk-peace.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23507&start=0
At you to turn out fine heads!
Success!
Same, as at youmicroRU said:
Pay attention on correct having watered! At a plant the bottom roots deliver water, and top oxygen and nutritious elements. You wet the top layer, the bottom roots do not have not enough water, and top some oxygen.
I used a pot without holes of 5 liters. At the bottom 3см. The cured substratum (Ph 5,5) Watered only on edge 100-400 гр. Every day with ½ dozes of fertilizers for Hidro + Mg.. It is very bad, that you cannot measure weight of a pot..
In this magazine, dear Cheshire_Cat, Too uses pots of 1 liter and writes, how many it uses waters and fertilizers at each updating...
http://olk-peace.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23507&start=0
It agreerkrone said:
At you to turn out fine heads!
Success!
I don't have much experience with 12/12 grows, so take this with a grain of salt. Plants need good root systems in order to grow large fan leaves. Going 12/12 from seed means that your roots will only develop so much before they concentrate their energy on flowering. This isn't a problem in hydro because the root systems will always be nice and health(assuming you know what you are doing).
Your yellowing leaves good be the result of a few things:
1) Nitrogen deficiency. For whatever reason, your plants aren't getting enough nitrogen. I've never used the fertilizer that you mentioned, but some nutrients take a while to become usable to the plants, perhaps it hasn't been made available.
2) Nutrient Lockup. You might have too much nitrogen in the soil and your plant can't absorb much of any nutrients. I doubt this is the case, but if it is, you'll have to flush the soil with clean water.
3) You are using reverse osmosis water. I've heard that r/o water is so pure in some instances it will leech nutrients from the soil.
I would suggest making the following changes:
In the beginning you used tap water. I am uncertain if you changed your tap water into tepid water. If you didn't, than the chlorine in the water certainly killed all or most of the beneficial bacteria and fungus in the soil. If you did use tepid water than it is time to add more beneficial bacteria.
Use distilled or tepid water. You can make tepid water by using an airpump and an airstone, and allowing tap water to bubble for 24 hours. However, you said that you are worried about the lead content, and so perhaps you should try distilled.
First, go to the store and get some kelp mix some worm castings, and a few pairs of panty hose. You are going to make an organic tea.
To do this add to the panty hose:
1 tsp per gallon Kelp meal
1 tsp per gallon molasses
1/5 cup per gallon worm castings
and to aid the plant in flowering:
get some high P bat guano
Poor this mix inside the panty hose, tie it off, and drop it the gallon of water. put the airstone back inside the gallon of water and let it bubble for 24-48 hours. It should start to foam up.
What you are doing is stimulating the benneficial bacteria. They will start to break down the nutrients into a usable form. The plant saves a lot of energy by not having to break down the nutrients itself, plus the plant is able to use the nutrients almost immediately.
Cut this mix in half with another gallon of distilled water and use it every 3rd watering for two or three weeks. See if this helps out.
One watering of chlorinated water can kill as much as 30% of your yield.
The worm castings will provide nitrogen, benneficial bacteria, and other trace nutirents to your girl. The castings will stimulate root growth and should help those leaves.
The molasses you add will help the benneficial bacteria explode in growth, but only if you give it time. It will also add sweetness to the buds, but again, that probably works the best if the sugars have had time to be broken down into usable form.
Good Luck!
Your yellowing leaves good be the result of a few things:
1) Nitrogen deficiency. For whatever reason, your plants aren't getting enough nitrogen. I've never used the fertilizer that you mentioned, but some nutrients take a while to become usable to the plants, perhaps it hasn't been made available.
2) Nutrient Lockup. You might have too much nitrogen in the soil and your plant can't absorb much of any nutrients. I doubt this is the case, but if it is, you'll have to flush the soil with clean water.
3) You are using reverse osmosis water. I've heard that r/o water is so pure in some instances it will leech nutrients from the soil.
I would suggest making the following changes:
In the beginning you used tap water. I am uncertain if you changed your tap water into tepid water. If you didn't, than the chlorine in the water certainly killed all or most of the beneficial bacteria and fungus in the soil. If you did use tepid water than it is time to add more beneficial bacteria.
Use distilled or tepid water. You can make tepid water by using an airpump and an airstone, and allowing tap water to bubble for 24 hours. However, you said that you are worried about the lead content, and so perhaps you should try distilled.
First, go to the store and get some kelp mix some worm castings, and a few pairs of panty hose. You are going to make an organic tea.
To do this add to the panty hose:
1 tsp per gallon Kelp meal
1 tsp per gallon molasses
1/5 cup per gallon worm castings
and to aid the plant in flowering:
get some high P bat guano
Poor this mix inside the panty hose, tie it off, and drop it the gallon of water. put the airstone back inside the gallon of water and let it bubble for 24-48 hours. It should start to foam up.
What you are doing is stimulating the benneficial bacteria. They will start to break down the nutrients into a usable form. The plant saves a lot of energy by not having to break down the nutrients itself, plus the plant is able to use the nutrients almost immediately.
Cut this mix in half with another gallon of distilled water and use it every 3rd watering for two or three weeks. See if this helps out.
One watering of chlorinated water can kill as much as 30% of your yield.
The worm castings will provide nitrogen, benneficial bacteria, and other trace nutirents to your girl. The castings will stimulate root growth and should help those leaves.
The molasses you add will help the benneficial bacteria explode in growth, but only if you give it time. It will also add sweetness to the buds, but again, that probably works the best if the sugars have had time to be broken down into usable form.
Good Luck!
Mr_Micro
Member
Thanks for the great advice everyone!
I watered it again today (it's been 3 days since I last watered and the top 1" or so of the soil is now dry) but this time I mixed up a new nutrient mix for it. The water I use is filted water from a local co-op that is R/O filtered, U/V filtered, and there's 2 or 3 other kinds of filtration techniques they use on it as well to make sure it's as pure as possible. So I'm positive that theres no clorine or any other odd chemicals in it (which also means that theres no calcium or magnesium in it either, unfortunately). Still though, it's better than using the potentially lead contaminated tap water.
But anyway, the nutrient mix consited of 1 gallon of filtered water, 1 cup of urine, 1 ounce of (99% organic) PureBlend Pro Bloom Soil Formula, and 1 tablespoon of organic blackstrap molasses. I had to shake the jug around for about 3 minutes to get all the molasses to disolve into the water, but that wasn't too difficult. Unfortnately my digital PH pen is broken right now so I have to rely on my simple GH water PH test kit... but I don't think I'm getting accurate readings from it because it relys on adding 3 drops of PH test solution to a small vial of water and comparing the color of the water to the colors on the chart. But unfortunately now that I've added molasses to the water my water is a dark brown color which I think must throw off the color readings of the PH test kit. So for now I have no idea what the PH of the water is... how much does molasses affect the water's PH?
And thal, I really would love to start making my own teas, since I'm a big fan of organics and simple non-chemical nutrient mixes. I do have a air pump and airstones on hand to bubble the mixture, but unfortunately I don't have the other supplies like kelp meal, worm castings, and bat guano on hand to make the tea with. So for now I'll stick to my PBP mix and I think the next grow I do I'll try my hand at making my own teas! But I really do appreciate your advice on this, because it's a topic I'm quite interested in.
So thank you again rkrone, microRU, and thal! All of you guys's advice is greatly appreciated and I'll post some pictures of the plant's progress within the next few days to see if this new nutrient solution makes my girl happy again.
I watered it again today (it's been 3 days since I last watered and the top 1" or so of the soil is now dry) but this time I mixed up a new nutrient mix for it. The water I use is filted water from a local co-op that is R/O filtered, U/V filtered, and there's 2 or 3 other kinds of filtration techniques they use on it as well to make sure it's as pure as possible. So I'm positive that theres no clorine or any other odd chemicals in it (which also means that theres no calcium or magnesium in it either, unfortunately). Still though, it's better than using the potentially lead contaminated tap water.
But anyway, the nutrient mix consited of 1 gallon of filtered water, 1 cup of urine, 1 ounce of (99% organic) PureBlend Pro Bloom Soil Formula, and 1 tablespoon of organic blackstrap molasses. I had to shake the jug around for about 3 minutes to get all the molasses to disolve into the water, but that wasn't too difficult. Unfortnately my digital PH pen is broken right now so I have to rely on my simple GH water PH test kit... but I don't think I'm getting accurate readings from it because it relys on adding 3 drops of PH test solution to a small vial of water and comparing the color of the water to the colors on the chart. But unfortunately now that I've added molasses to the water my water is a dark brown color which I think must throw off the color readings of the PH test kit. So for now I have no idea what the PH of the water is... how much does molasses affect the water's PH?
And thal, I really would love to start making my own teas, since I'm a big fan of organics and simple non-chemical nutrient mixes. I do have a air pump and airstones on hand to bubble the mixture, but unfortunately I don't have the other supplies like kelp meal, worm castings, and bat guano on hand to make the tea with. So for now I'll stick to my PBP mix and I think the next grow I do I'll try my hand at making my own teas! But I really do appreciate your advice on this, because it's a topic I'm quite interested in.
So thank you again rkrone, microRU, and thal! All of you guys's advice is greatly appreciated and I'll post some pictures of the plant's progress within the next few days to see if this new nutrient solution makes my girl happy again.
Right on.
This might be a bit contraversal, but in soil grows, organic in particular, PH isn't as big of a deal because the soil should balance itself out.
If you aren't using the airstone now I would suggest using it as well. It will saturate the water with as much oxygen as possible, and therefore deliver as much oxygen to your plants as neccessary.
For your next grow, if you don't feel like messing with any nutrients at all try using the moonshine mix. The recipe is in the Organic soil section. It works like a champ.
This might be a bit contraversal, but in soil grows, organic in particular, PH isn't as big of a deal because the soil should balance itself out.
If you aren't using the airstone now I would suggest using it as well. It will saturate the water with as much oxygen as possible, and therefore deliver as much oxygen to your plants as neccessary.
For your next grow, if you don't feel like messing with any nutrients at all try using the moonshine mix. The recipe is in the Organic soil section. It works like a champ.
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le4chnation
Member
Great work man i have done a micro soil grow in a rubbermaid container and i plan on doing something stealth like your pc grow, untill i move out of an apartment..
good job
good job
