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What kind of deficency is that?
- Thread starter Gilmour
- Start date
Overfeeding.
Although it looks like K lockout/deficiency, the edges of the leaves look crispy and dry.
I don't know how much BioBizz feed you gave them.
If those slabs are concrete, they may be too cold and that could be locking out the K. The problem with lockouts is that nutrients build up in the soil, and create all kinds of other effects, basically like a trainwreck. High nutrient salt concentrations dry out the plant and kill roots, which then decompose in an anaerobic environment, which encourages fungal growth, which drags down the pH to about 4.0...
So the best thing of course is to prevent a buildup of nutrients on the soil, and look at the environmental factors that are locking out the nutrients.
The way to recover from overfeeding is a flush and then give a mild bloom food solution (0.2 EC to 0.4 EC max). The P will help grow new roots quickly, which will mop up the rest of the nutrients in the soil.
I just followed the dosage of BioBizz schedule. I didn't fed their for a week because the weather was so bad (rained a lot) and i wasn't home so I wasn't able to move them away from the rain. It's hard to go in overfeeding with BioBizz nutrients and All-Mix soil. So what you suggest at this stage? Just flush up with pure water (ph 6.2)+ bloom nutrients like BioBloom and TopMax+ Cal/Mag?
"I just followed the dosage of BioBizz schedule."
Famous last words.
The nutrient companies are in the business of selling nutrients, and if you use more, they sell more. Also, the All-Mix is already fertilized.
With organically grown plants, I don't filter the water or treat the tapwater with anything other than letting it stand next to the plants for at least an hour to equalize the temperature, and after a day the EC is also 0.04 EC lower. Maybe that's from the chlorene having evaporated.
Especially if you have hard water, the calcium and magnesium may help with the grow. The calcium also raises the pH, which may counteract the bloom foods or organic processes that drag the pH down.
You may not need to fertilize beyond the bloom food until you have a good root system established, and even then you could fertilize by repotting into more All-Mix.
Also, with a large root system, much more of the nutrients are absorbed and less stays in the medium. Which means you can use much lower nutrient concentrations.
So I would say, just flush with 0.2 EC of Biobizz Bloom.
And, in organic grows, you're trying to get the right pH for bacteria/aerobic fungi, which is higher than 6.2 pH, more around 7.0 pH.
Having a pH that is too low will lock out mobile nutrients (NPK) which start at the bottom of the plant. A pH that it too high shows at the top of the plant, because it locks out non-mobile nutrients in the new growth, like iron, copper, zink, etc.
"I just followed the dosage of BioBizz schedule."
Famous last words.
Also, the All-Mix is already fertilized.
With organically grown plants, I don't filter the water or treat the tapwater with anything other than letting it stand next to the plants for at least an hour to equalize the temperature, and after a day the EC is also 0.04 EC lower. Maybe that's from the chlorene having evaporated.
Especially if you have hard water, the calcium and magnesium may help with the grow. The calcium also raises the pH, which may counteract the bloom foods or organic processes that drag the pH down.
You may not need to fertilize beyond the bloom food until you have a good root system established, and even then you could fertilize by repotting into more All-Mix.
Also, with a large root system, much more of the nutrients are absorbed and less stays in the medium. Which means you can use much lower nutrient concentrations.
So I would say, just flush with 0.2 EC of Biobizz Bloom.
And, in organic grows, you're trying to get the right pH for bacteria/aerobic fungi, which is higher than 6.2 pH, more around 7.0 pH.
Having a pH that is too low will lock out mobile nutrients (NPK) which start at the bottom of the plant. A pH that it too high shows at the top of the plant, because it locks out non-mobile nutrients in the new growth, like iron, copper, zink, etc.
Perfect, thank you. Yes they sell more but if my plant get sick I Will not buy biobizz again and this is my first time that I get problem with them. If I get my water directly from my well do you think there's chlorene too? And what dosage of BioBloom you suggest?
Yes it's very alkaline, I always fix the pH to 6.5 for this reason before mixing with the ferts.
So do you think is better to flush up or just reducing the amount of ferts?
hyposomniac
Active member
Unfortunately it's not as easy as knowing the starting pH of the water and adding nutrients, because of buffer capacity.. so your ph6 water and my ph6 water will not react the same to the nutrients
If you know the type and strength of the acid, you can calculate the buffer capacity of your water.. but that's beyond me.
0.2 EC of Biobizz Bloom.
And then let the medium go dry for a while, which also stimulates root growth, because the roots will start looking for more moisture.
1. You should get a pH pen and an EC pen.
They shouldn't cost you more than $60 total, and they'll last years. Plus you'll use them every time you feed your plants.
pH pens should stand in water a day before you use them, to hydrate the sensor. You can keep them in a special solution, however I keep mine in water, and they're great. Try to get the more responsive pens, it saves a lot of headache. The EC pen I use is always immediately responsive.
2. I would suggest using a low solution of bloom food for now & more All-Mix soil later on because the P will stimulate root growth.
The bigger the plants root system, they more nutrients they can take up from the medium, and the less likely you will have nutrient deficiencies, or nutrient buildup in the soil which can lead to complications.
With the bigger root system go lower nutrient concentrations, because of the increased efficiency.
