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Grandaddy Purple

-VT-

Voluptuous Trichomes
Veteran
Thanks, Zen Master. I'm not going to transition them until the lowest spot in the canopy is 30".

Wanted to tell you about a Eco Smart wettable powder (both for structural and ornamental applications) that I now swear by for the root zone. I like wettable powders in coco, because after it dries there is a nice residual--and harmless.


A combination of the following
3 active ingredients:

2-Phenethyl Propionate, a botanical insecticide
Thyme oil, a botanical insecticide
Pyrethrins, a botanical insecticide

For the benefit of someone reading this that may not know; botanical insecticides are derived from plants (oils, etc...)--therefore, organic.

peace​
 

-VT-

Voluptuous Trichomes
Veteran
Yes.

I have had zero problems with it. Which is why I deemed it 'harmless' in my previous post. In fact, I'm going to apply some again soon, as a precaution heading into bloom phase.

If you require detailed, advanced information; I'll refer you to the product label:

http://www.ecosafepest.com/docs/labels/label_EcoPCO_WPX.pdf

And/or the MSDS (material safety data sheet):

http://www.ecosafepest.com/docs/msds/msds_EcoPCO_WPX.pdf

Nothing wrong with Imidacloprid, if you prefer synthetic systemics. I hear Bayer has a good product with the imidacloprid as active ingredient.

peace​
 

Zen Master

Cannasseur
Veteran
Yeah I've used imid to get rid of the nasty lil root aphids I had a long time ago.

definitely not on the 'less harsh' side for the plant. I usually get browned edges and some crispyness for a little. I've been finding that preventative doses of neem/green cure/azamax for moms only has kept any/all bug problems to a nonfactor.

anything systemic (like imid) I dont use after day 1 of 12/12
 
K

krest

Looking great in there VT! How do you like those smart pots? Your plants sure do seem to love them.
 

-VT-

Voluptuous Trichomes
Veteran
Late Veg

Late Veg

Sounds like a good combo, Zen Master. Thanks for sharing that. Have heard a lot of good things about Azure.

Thanks, Dank.

Hi, krest. Thanks. I like the low profile (shorter-more circumference. Seems better for the roots. Not sure why), and the way they dry out fast. I'm very happy I switched from the grow bags. The roots crawling out the bottom look good too. Will never transplant from a grow bag to one of these geo pots again. I'm starting some TW clones now for another light. When They go to mid veg, I'm going straight to the geo pot. No more up transplanting--especially from grow bags to lower profile containers.

Good hearing from you, dante. Been a long time. Thanks, man. I'm using PBP line in GH coco_One of the reasons I did this thread was to reconnect with some old friends--some happen to be GDP fans. I just sent you a friend request so we can keep in touch. Hope all is well.

These pictures were taken during the late veg period.

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Peace​
 
Lovely! Temps? Do you over water a bit to drain? What is your PH and PPM? Sorry about all the questions man, that is looking really good! Im going loko for coco is why!

Yeah V, I'm back, I think:D Please drop those helpful coco hints to me VT, and keep it concentrated.

One Love One Heart

Dante
 

-VT-

Voluptuous Trichomes
Veteran
Welcome to the show, Greenwich. Thanks for tagging my thread.

I plan to add a scrubber to the center of the circle like I've seen in other threads in here, C Gin. Never thought of doing that. Forgot whose thread, but glad I peeked in on it.

No problem, Dante. Thanks. I'll do my best to answer:

1. I'm unsure of the temps. I don't have a hygrometer or thermometer.

2. I never check runoff PH, nor the PH of the medium. I adjust the solution--> 5.6 - 6.4 On the lower end when they're little.

3. I don't measure PPM. I don't have a PPM meter.

4. Hand water. Wet/Dry. No runoff. Whenever there is runoff, it's absorbed within minutes.

Hope that helps

peace​
 

-VT-

Voluptuous Trichomes
Veteran
Early Flower

Early Flower

Dante:

I never aim for 5.6 on my pH meter. The lowest number I will accept is 5.8. I listed the low end range at 5.6 (previous post) to account for my pH meter's margin of error (.2). Forgot to mention that. I don't think 5.4 would be ideal with my profile...which really is the best way to compare notes by the way, IMO (nutrient profile in lieu of PPM/EC readings). Two growers could both be at 800 PPM (.5 conversion for example); yet be way off regarding the elemental PPM profile.

For the longest I had purple stems. I saw a vast improvement once I ramped the N from 127 to 155 elemental PPM's. I use Nitrex because it has nothing but N. This GDP clone really likes the Cal/Mag and N.

I dusted the plants with a product I mentioned earlier in the thread. You'll notice the powdery residual.

Actually, you won't notice it. Can't post pics. I guess it's because I stripped the EXIF data??? I stripped EXIF data in most of these pics in the thread, and had no issues. I guess I'll post Early Flower pics next time.


peace​
 

-VT-

Voluptuous Trichomes
Veteran
Upgrade Co2 or Cooling? A debate

Upgrade Co2 or Cooling? A debate

Welcome, Bobby.

In the absence of the ability to update with pics, I've decided to post regarding a debate I recently had with a friend offsite. He won the debate, because I didn't have much ammo to work with. The arguments presented to me were compelling. Now I am open-minded to Co2.

With the summer months approaching, I decided to shop around for a 2.5 ton mini split. I currently run a 2.5 ton split to cool my condo. With the AC intake and the room exhaust--it works well for now (exchanging the heat with my split intake in the hallway), but not a long term solution for what I envision. I've been leaning towards a low end, pre-charged, mini-split--dual zone, for even distribution (about $2K). Probably another couple bills for the electrical work?

I've never run C02. I've opted for attempting to maintain cool temps. After some back and forth, I'm now reconsidering my position on Co2.

-Possibly up to 40% increased yield (if the Co2 is used properly and the environment is dialed in I suppose)
-No exhaust-->No need for insulated duct-work, fans. Moreover, my situation is not conducive to exhausting outside.
-Ability to run higher temps--> cooling savings.

I can get a electric ignition propane burner, changeover valve,and a "Fuzzy Logic" controller , with less than 1.5 g-notes. I won't even consider the tanks.

I think I'd come out cheaper running Co2 with temps 80F-90F....and possibly get more weight; as opposed to dropping 2K to run low temps. Of course I'd have to get both for more lights. For now, Co2 is sounding really, really good. If I get less than 30 zips from my current run, it definitely will sound good.

peace​
 

megayields

Grower of Connoisseur herb's.
ICMag Donor
Veteran
My opinion I learned from DHF. He says: If you are circulating ENOUGH outside air and exhausting it properly, maintanting good temps, water, nutes etc....Co2 is a waste of money. I used to run Co2 myself, and sold all the equipment and have seen no degradation in quality (in fact the opposite but not due to the Co2 issue). I see your situation is NOT condusive to exhausting outside so possibly this is a way you need to go, I just have come to the conclusion that Co2 is just spending a lot more money that what you get in return.

I've been around growers for over 15 years here in the Santa Cruz mountains and their are some VERY good growers here. I know of no one that has seen a 40% increase in yields to Co2 "alone". In my opinion that is an erroneous statement of what is possible with Co2.

Just my 2 cents and I learned that from DHF and my own observations.

Good luck BRO!
 

-VT-

Voluptuous Trichomes
Veteran
Early Flower--Take Two

Early Flower--Take Two

Great post, Megayield. I respect your opinion, and appreciate the thoughtful input--and readily embrace your points. It comes down to my inability to maintain cool temps, combined with the inability to vent fresh air, and exhaust heat outside.

Let's assume there is absolutely no yield increase. If it's true that plants do better 80F-90F with Co2, therein lies the crux of the debate, as it pertains to the specifics of my quandary. I know what happens if I run 80F-90F without Co2. If the plants are more tolerant of heat with Co2, that alone is extremely valuable for a grower in a hot climate--and unable to exchange fresh air into the grow.

They took 5 days to transition to flower phase. I've elevated 3 plants in corners since these pics were taken for a Colosseum effect. Will post that layout next photo op.

I dusted the plants with a product I mentioned earlier in the thread. You'll notice the powdery residual.

Early Flower

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peace​
 
D

DHF

Hey VT.....Yeah....I preach no CO2 supplements , but in your case with summer comin up , it might be the best way to maintain plant health and closer to optimum conditions runnin higher temps....but....

The only setup I ever saw that really rocked with CO2 where the grower actually increased yields was in deep summer with temps well above 90 for the duration lights on , and as close to less than 10 degree variable for lights off temps.....

Just watch your humidity buildup lights off once stretch is over , cuz that`s where most folks fuck up once the plants are in full swellage and drinkin/feedin their ass off....

40% yield increase is horsefuck , so don`t buy into the myth......That shit comes from the hydro whores that sell the equipment......

I mean after all.....a CO2 generator is nothin but a propane or natural gas heater.....nothing more.....the byproduct from the gas burning is CO2 and does help , but they shit out lights off what they don`t eat/use lights on.....

Didn`t read or maybe missed it , but if you`re gonna use gas , I`d suggest a tank , regulator , and good controller to prevent adding any more heat to the grow area than necessary since you`re doin this due to the excess heat anyways ya know ?......

Good luck Bro....DHF.....:ying:....
 

-VT-

Voluptuous Trichomes
Veteran
Early Flower

Early Flower

Thanks, DHF Your knowledge is much appreciated. You're right--I should consider the tanks. There are generators with built-n heat traps and exhaust fittings (would be nice during winter to heat the living room, but I only want to try Co2 during the summer)--but they cost a lot more.

I installed a 50 pint dehumidifier, controlled by a humidistat at plant level. I think this will save me money. I use the lung room air for the dehuey intake. Saw Blazeoneup do that years ago.

Under the light I always ran the dehuey in the past, but I had to beat the shit out the plants with fans to circulate enough air to make it effective--when I didn't, it wasn't effective. Now the dehuey exhaust is on the opposite side of the growroom exhaust to pull the dry air through the plants. This made room for the HEPA filter under the light (low speed).

The cool air intake is at the top of the grow space (224 cubes)in a corner. Next run it will supply the lung room. A can 66 and 6" fan are on the floor on the diagonal corner--to pull cool, crisp air through the canopy. The plants are confined to a 4 x 5.

As for the Co2 controller, I'm leaning towards a fuzzy logic, but really want a all in one environmental controller (pumps, lung room intake, exhaust, dehuey, fans, light....). I'm tired of hand watering. Gonna do what I wanted to (but couldn't) years ago--Drip Feed.

I elevated the plants in 3 corners. One didn't need it. 5 plants in a circle. 4 in the corners.


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peace​
 
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