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Seedlings showing nutrient burn??

T

Thefusedone

Member
Hello,

So I have a couple seedlings going. Both are Sweet Seeds, one is Fast Bud 2 and other is S.A.D. They are both 2 weeks old.

I gave them what I thought was a low dose of GH flora-micro. Like 4 drops inhttps://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=527496&stc=1&d=1586103145 a pint of water. Withing a couple days a say "blotchy" spots that quickly turn brown.
I've attached a pic of the S.A.D. looks just like the FastBuds2.
Could someone please weigh in in what they think it may be? I've had the same problem before. I think I may need to not give them fertilizer at this age? Does anyone agree?
 

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E

Esme

Member
Thefusedone said:
Hello,

So I have a couple seedlings going. Both are Sweet Seeds, one is Fast Bud 2 and other is S.A.D. They are both 2 weeks old.

I gave them what I thought was a low dose of GH flora-micro. Like 4 drops inhttps://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=527496&stc=1&d=1586103145 a pint of water. Withing a couple days a say "blotchy" spots that quickly turn brown.
I've attached a pic of the S.A.D. looks just like the FastBuds2.
Could someone please weigh in in what they think it may be? I've had the same problem before. I think I may need to not give them fertilizer at this age? Does anyone agree?
Click to expand...

What soil is that mate?

If it's coco then I would say them brown spots are a CalMag issue get some calmag if it's coco.
 
troutman

troutman

Seed Whore
In good soil, seedlings can go a while without any nutrients.

BTW: Water only the soil and not the leaves on the plants. It looks like water splashed on the leaves.
 
bibi40

bibi40

Well-known member
troutman said:
In good soil, seedlings can go a while without any nutrients.

BTW: Water only the soil and not the leaves on the plants. It looks like water splashed on the leaves.
Click to expand...


no feedings just a little watering ( like 100-200 ml each for 3-4 days ) ,



read the autoflowering guide in auto section , follow it ,
it will help you ...


seems you want to do too much , but not a lot to do at this stage :tiphat:
 
T

Thefusedone

Member
Thank you all!
The soil mix is
Peatmoss, perlite, vermiculite, worm castings, greensand, soil conditioner, bonemeal, lime and I cant remember a couple other things.
 
T

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
Thefusedone said:
Hello,

So I have a couple seedlings going. Both are Sweet Seeds, one is Fast Bud 2 and other is S.A.D. They are both 2 weeks old.

I gave them what I thought was a low dose of GH flora-micro. Like 4 drops inhttps://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=527496&stc=1&d=1586103145 a pint of water. Withing a couple days a say "blotchy" spots that quickly turn brown.
I've attached a pic of the S.A.D. looks just like the FastBuds2.
Could someone please weigh in in what they think it may be? I've had the same problem before. I think I may need to not give them fertilizer at this age? Does anyone agree?
Click to expand...
First flush with low a EC nutrient solution, then feed 0.4 EC of high P/K nutrients and 0.1 EC of epsom salt.

The extra P/K will also make the soil milder because it lower Nitrogen levels.

Also, before using the soil, it helps to add a few tablespoons of magnesium lime, which adds magnesium, calcium and raises the pH a (easier uptake of N, P, K and Mg).
 
Last edited:
T

Thefusedone

Member
Oh geez I should have know that lol.
Is magnesium lime similar to garden lime? I added garden lime when I mixed the soil.
I've read that I should be at a couple different ph levels.
I'm at 6.3. Is that good?:tiphat:
 
T

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
Thefusedone said:
Oh geez I should have know that lol.
Is magnesium lime similar to garden lime? I added garden lime when I mixed the soil.
I've read that I should be at a couple different ph levels.
I'm at 6.3. Is that good?:tiphat:
Click to expand...
Magnesium lime has a higher percentage of magnesium than regular garden lime. There some is Mg in there too, so I guess that would be ok.

For soil, 6.3 is actually kind of low side. 7.0 is better, especially at this stage, because the higher pH allows for the takeup of more mobile nutrients - NPK and Mg.

A lower pH is better for the takeup of trace elements, which are the most important nutrients during finishing, because they determine the volume (silica) and the content of the resin. Silica is the stuff resin is made of, and Manganese has been linked to higher THC levels.
 
T

Thefusedone

Member
TanzanianMagic said:
Magnesium lime has a higher percentage of magnesium than regular garden lime. There some is Mg in there too, so I guess that would be ok.

For soil, 6.3 is actually kind of low side. 7.0 is better, especially at this stage, because the higher pH allows for the takeup of more mobile nutrients - NPK and Mg.

A lower pH is better for the takeup of trace elements, which are the most important nutrients during finishing, because they determine the volume (silica) and the content of the resin. Silica is the stuff resin is made of, and Manganese has been linked to higher THC levels.
Click to expand...

Thanks so much Tanzania,
I am going to raise my ph immediately. Then come around the last 3 to 4 weeks I'll lower back to 6.3 and run some silica and manganese with my fertilizer before I flush. I love learning more!!
Thanks again!!
 
T

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
Thefusedone said:
Thanks so much Tanzania,
I am going to raise my ph immediately. Then come around the last 3 to 4 weeks I'll lower back to 6.3 and run some silica and manganese with my fertilizer before I flush. I love learning more!!
Thanks again!!
Click to expand...
About silica I would say - indoors, it needs supplementation, especially when the resin is taking off.

The manganese is a trace element, and all you have to do is have a general high trace mineral nutrient and the right low pH.

Seaweed, worm tea, lava meal/granite meal, stinging nettle tea and a low pH will be enough.
 
T

Thefusedone

Member
TanzanianMagic said:
About silica I would say - indoors, it needs supplementation, especially when the resin is taking off.

The manganese is a trace element, and all you have to do is have a general high trace mineral nutrient and the right low pH.

Seaweed, worm tea, lava meal/granite meal, stinging nettle tea and a low pH will be enough.
Click to expand...

Thanks Tanzania,

I'm both indoors and out. So I'll definitely grab a trace mineral nutrient for my indoor along with a silica solution.

Do you follow the recommended feed schedule on the products instructions for these?

I really appreciate the help! I'm looking forward to having things more dialed-in :dance013:
 
T

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
Thefusedone said:
Thanks Tanzania,

I'm both indoors and out. So I'll definitely grab a trace mineral nutrient for my indoor along with a silica solution.

Do you follow the recommended feed schedule on the products instructions for these?

I really appreciate the help! I'm looking forward to having things more dialed-in :dance013:
Click to expand...
The thing about silica is this:

- sand is made of silica

If you grow right in the soil, you won't have any issues with silica. That's why most farmers don't even think of silica as a nutrient.

- Indoors, or outdoors using a soilless mix, the plants don't get enough silica.

There is never enough silica in light mixes, grow mixes, etc, other than whatever perlite dust is in there. (Perlite dust also clogs up roots and turns the medium into cement, and has a lot of aluminum in it - so it's not an ideal source.)

- Sources of silica

Sand (too heavy for pots), silica clay like Mineral Magic, stinging nettles, seaweed.

- A feeding schedule

I use a layered soil with a supersoil mix and a pot with a water reservoir.

Hemp mulch
seeds/fruits
light soil (mix of 1/3 each of perlite, worm castings and light mix, pluse a few tablespoons of Mearl mg lime - by basic mix)
supersoil (basic mix plus sources of high levels of npk, mg s si ca, trace elements - bloodmeal, bonemeal, rock phosphate, seaweed, maerl lime, silica clay, woodash, bat guano, alfalfa pellets)
grow rocks for drainage
spacer
reservoir

This does a lot of things - water mainly moves up through the soil, drawn up inside and outside the roots (even dead roots can wick up water), watering the plant by evaporating soil moisture with the heat of the lamps or the sun in the daytime, leaving the lower levels of the soil with more moisture than the top of the soil. This also helps reduce insect pressure because insects need water. The presence of organic materials also distracts the insects and gives them something to eat other than the plant. Their activity also attracts predators outdoors.

And by spraying the plants with beneficial fungi, you get the insects to track beneficial microbes around instead of disease causing microbes like mildew or botrytis. I use a 'kombucha' of just cannabis leaves, sugar and water (no SCOBY), which has all kinds of weed specific nutrients, microbes, and lots of enzymes and sugars to encourage beneficial fungi and microbes.
 
Last edited:
T

Thefusedone

Member
TanzanianMagic said:
The thing about silica is this:

- sand is made of silica

If you grow right in the soil, you won't have any issues with silica. That's why most farmers don't even think of silica as a nutrient.

- Indoors, or outdoors using a soilless mix, the plants don't get enough silica.

There is never enough silica in light mixes, grow mixes, etc, other than whatever perlite dust is in there. (Perlite dust also clogs up roots and turns the medium into cement, and has a lot of aluminum in it - so it's not an ideal source.)

- Sources of silica

Sand (too heavy for pots), silica clay like Mineral Magic, stinging nettles, seaweed.

- A feeding schedule

I use a layered soil with a supersoil mix and a pot with a water reservoir.

Hemp mulch
seeds/fruits
light soil (mix of 1/3 each of perlite, worm castings and light mix, pluse a few tablespoons of Mearl mg lime - by basic mix)
supersoil (basic mix plus sources of high levels of npk, mg s si ca, trace elements - bloodmeal, bonemeal, rock phosphate, seaweed, maerl lime, silica clay, woodash, bat guano, alfalfa pellets)
grow rocks for drainage
spacer
reservoir

This does a lot of things - water mainly moves up through the soil, drawn up inside and outside the roots (even dead roots can wick up water), watering the plant by evaporating soil moisture with the heat of the lamps or the sun in the daytime, leaving the lower levels of the soil with more moisture than the top of the soil. This also helps reduce insect pressure because insects need water. The presence of organic materials also distracts the insects and gives them something to eat other than the plant. Their activity also attracts predators outdoors.

And by spraying the plants with beneficial fungi, you get the insects to track beneficial microbes around instead of disease causing microbes like mildew or botrytis. I use a 'kombucha' of just cannabis leaves, sugar and water (no SCOBY), which has all kinds of weed specific nutrients, microbes, and lots of enzymes and sugars to encourage beneficial fungi and microbes.
Click to expand...

Very interesting Tanzania, so you make a mixture or marijuana leafs sugar and water, and then spray your plants with it? I had a terrible case of some sort of brown fungus last year that destroyed one of my plants, perhaps that would have helped? Hm.
I was thinking about fungicides for this years outdoor plants. It was just in one location under some diseased dead trees.

Thanks Tanzania!
 
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