fredcdobbs
Member
ppm is 270 and ph is 7...been using rain water but it aint rained for a while.lol...i appreciate you fellers helpin this old fat man out.
do you use tap water?
- Thread starter fredcdobbs
- Start date
Crumpledtrumpet
Member
I've always used tap water, I don't measure the ppm or the ph reading as i grow in compost and not in a hydro system All i know is that i live in a hard water area , I've never used rainwater indoors, I only ever use it on my tomatoes in the greenhouse, I wouldn't use rain water on my indoor plants as they could get diseased from the rain water, Crumpledtrumpet.
redneck shogun
Member
For years admittedly, I didn't use tap water. Now it appears to be one of those myths like masterbation causing blindness.
dreams4dreamin
Member
@redneck shogun. Lol funny way to say it but true..
@fredcdobbs. Tap water isnt a bad thing. It already has calcium and magnesium in it so it wont bring on a deficiency in that area. I just let my tap water sit for at least 24hrs but usually its 2days or so just to get rid of the chlorine inside of it and after that i just apply my nutes and give it a go
@fredcdobbs. Tap water isnt a bad thing. It already has calcium and magnesium in it so it wont bring on a deficiency in that area. I just let my tap water sit for at least 24hrs but usually its 2days or so just to get rid of the chlorine inside of it and after that i just apply my nutes and give it a go
when I lived in san diego mine was 380....never had a complaint about my smoke..let it sit ,bubble it /add organic matter.. I try and do 2 of the 3
fredcdobbs
Member
thanks a lot fellows. i sure appreciate the prompt manner in which my question was answered.
that's the beauty of organic soil..its forgiving ...no ro filter needed
Depends on where you live and the quality of your water as to whether or not you can use your tap...
I use RO because it eliminates an input variable and makes it a constant. I want the EXACT same results in my garden every time. RO guarantees that...
I won't say it's a necessity for EVERYONE...but for some people it IS.
dank.Frank
I use RO because it eliminates an input variable and makes it a constant. I want the EXACT same results in my garden every time. RO guarantees that...
I won't say it's a necessity for EVERYONE...but for some people it IS.
dank.Frank
TheyCallMeJJay
Member
Use tap water as well. However, there seems to be a change coming where they are switching to chloramine, or at least its being talked about.
Any experience with chloramine?
Nevermind, found the answer
Any experience with chloramine?
Nevermind, found the answer
using tap with high ppm is easy if your doing organics... I have never had tap so bad I cant use it with organics...chlorine and chloromine are easily dealt with...my water now is 83ppm way better than the old city water 380+
Using tap water, but have to adjust the pH... PPM here runs around 200, but it's way too alkaline from the nature of the rocks and soil around this ancient lake we draw water from.
Last season we used organic apple cider vinegar to adjust the pH and had excellent results with an outdoor Sour Bubble organic grow.
Last season we used organic apple cider vinegar to adjust the pH and had excellent results with an outdoor Sour Bubble organic grow.
In my last grow, I wasn't using RO...lol...against my own recommendations.
The property had a natural spring from which to draw water...might as well have been using bottled water... I never tested the pH and never checked the PPM...and never had any issues. Aside from having a high quality water, I naturally assumed the soil was acting as a proper buffer, so there was no need to worry myself with such matters.
I suppose my question - how much buffering do you guys allow the soil to do? At what point is pH too high or too low that you decide to go ahead and put it in check before using?
dank.Frank
The property had a natural spring from which to draw water...might as well have been using bottled water... I never tested the pH and never checked the PPM...and never had any issues. Aside from having a high quality water, I naturally assumed the soil was acting as a proper buffer, so there was no need to worry myself with such matters.
I suppose my question - how much buffering do you guys allow the soil to do? At what point is pH too high or too low that you decide to go ahead and put it in check before using?
dank.Frank
I sure do, but do check the ppm and Ph, only 1-2 times per summer otherwise I add a little calmag every 2 weeks[/COLOR]
Tap water here for 2 reasons:
1. My tap water contains minerals (hard water from the water aquifer--not sourced from the Colorado River) and I either bubble it for 24 hours or add Vitamin C (Sodium Ascorbate--powder form @ 10.59 mg/gal for every ppm of chlorine). Organic grow medium here.
2. Reverse Osmosis recovery rate can be 50%-75% (depending on many variables) and living is So Cal, I vacation in the Eastern Sierras--and I have seen first hand how LA Dept of Water & Power destroyed "Owens Lake"...it is now a "water-less lake". I am not a granola cruncher, but water waste/conservation is a priority for me. Hard for me to rationalize--waste 25-50 gallons of "concentrated water" to recover 50-75 gallons of "pure water".
Now, if I had water issues and the only remedy is to use RO water, then I would be in that camp.
1. My tap water contains minerals (hard water from the water aquifer--not sourced from the Colorado River) and I either bubble it for 24 hours or add Vitamin C (Sodium Ascorbate--powder form @ 10.59 mg/gal for every ppm of chlorine). Organic grow medium here.
2. Reverse Osmosis recovery rate can be 50%-75% (depending on many variables) and living is So Cal, I vacation in the Eastern Sierras--and I have seen first hand how LA Dept of Water & Power destroyed "Owens Lake"...it is now a "water-less lake". I am not a granola cruncher, but water waste/conservation is a priority for me. Hard for me to rationalize--waste 25-50 gallons of "concentrated water" to recover 50-75 gallons of "pure water".
Now, if I had water issues and the only remedy is to use RO water, then I would be in that camp.
vitamingreeninc
Member
So if my water is 450 ppm and a little over 8.5 ph after sitting for 24 hours I can then either water with it or use it in a tea recipe and that will be okay? That would save me a lot of money lol
I believe I heard microbeman say that no matter the pH of the water you are pouring into your medium, it can't change the soil pH. But I believe this is depending on the size of the container, a small pot would be easier to effect the pH, and a bigger soil container 10g, 20g, 50g and up it would buffer easily.
I hope I got that right.
What is "waste water" - lol - it's not like it is gone from the planet...it doesn't magically just disappear. It's merely sent down the drain and returned to the source. All water, if you live in a populated area, is many, many, many times recycled, re-purposed and re-used.
I understand what you are saying...but MOST of the inefficiency that is discussed with RO filters is a result of people being cheap and not installing a high pressure pump to operate the filters at the proper PSI levels. But certainly, there is some give and take ALWAYS when pursuing a purer, more refined product. (the product here being water)
When you think about how LARGE corporations, Rx companies, etc, etc - use NOTHING BUT RO - to ensure product consistency...the couple hundred gallons a month you might use is a drop in the bucket...
*insert George Carlin skit*
dank.Frank
IMO leaving tap water sit for 24 hrs lowers its ph drastically by removing chlorine,,, believe it or not Chlorine is good for plants and soil also with many mentioning there is calcium mag in tap water one must be aware Calcium and magnesium are also the most abundant minerals in tap water. The majority of the PPM, or EC reading, you obtain from a measuring device is cal-mag. The most typical form of these minerals in your untreated water is calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate. Unfortunately, contrary to popular belief, these forms are virtually unusable by plants, especially fast growing plants. The molecules of these compounds are far too large and immobile to be absorbed by the roots and transported to where the plant needs them. Relying on the cal-mag in tap water can lead to many problems
So really another myth debunked who cares what your tap ppm is does not make a bit of difference concern your self with proper ph going into
