I've been lurking this forum for a long time(2011), reading your guy's posts, following conversations up from 2009, reading the network of information from across the cannaforums and I just want to say thanks to RROG, tenthirty, Weezard, habeeb, Pet Flora and last but not least rives for being willing to work out the hearsay, put their money towards their own interests and being generous enough to share that data/experience with us. None of this would be possible without you guys, so again, thanks. My chamber is 4w x 7h x 2d, my grow style is top drip ScrOG, my strains of choice are NLxSK#1, Durban x Skunk #2, Chocolate Thai x Bubba Kush(Pre '98). I have been kicking around the idea of having two chambers one on top of the other, so I could feasibly get two grow spaces of 4w x 3.5h x 2d, but if I do this I need to make sure my wattages/distances will work out. I've spent the last three weeks researching the proper spectrum and I have come up with these LEDS that will suit our needs, I really want/need to make sure that I build this thing with the cutting edge tech/knowledge we have available right now. If there's a paradigm shift at the end of the month, so be it, I'm ready to build now and I want to do this properly. Cree XM-L2 WW 430nm: Exotic Hyper Violet LED (Would Prefer 5w) 465nm: Cree XLamp XP-E Royal Blue (Would Prefer 5w) 635nm: 5w Lumex TitanBrite 660nm: LZ1-10R200 740nm: LZ1-10R300 UVA/UVB:???? Do we even need UVA? I heard UVB is where it's at. 6:2:2:2:1:2 I am not married to any of these brands/lights, so please make some suggestions about alternatives. 430/465 Dimmable XM-L2 NonDimmable 635/660 Dimmable 740 on 15 minutes before and 15 minutes after WW's only. UVB: Unknown I know dimmable drivers are more expensive/less efficient, but I'm going for weight this time and I think the control will increase my yields. I am willing to wire up an arduino or a RaspberryPi for light automation/dimming control if it gets to that. So what do you guys think? Is the UVA necessary? Is there any way to integrate UVB into the panel? Should I split my cab up and make two chambers? (I could build 4 lights total w/off panel drivers) How many light sources should I need to eliminate shadowing? Thanks for the information so far, I wouldn't even know where I was at if it wasn't for these forums. Also a big thank you to KNNA, we'll never meet IRL but thanks for paving the way.
LED Build Prep, care to hash out the details?
- Thread starter FirstHit
- Start date
I messed up that formatting bad, sorry guys, here's an easier to read version.<br>
Thanks for the advice, I would rather DIY though. I enjoy learning new skillsets!
Personally I found no advantage to UV.
That does not mean there is none.
I even shield my greenhouse gals from UV.
The buds are extremely potent and that does show that UV is not needed to produce the active ingredients we seek.
I still get a li'l wind damage, but sun damage and resin gland attrition is a thing of the past.
So, I'm pullin' up a chair here.
Hope to learn something more about UV.
I'm sure that I've missed something, worthwhile I often do.
As a guess, the natural UV exposure peaks at noon..
When I was playing with UVa/b, I gave them 4 hours in the middle of the day cycle.
Tried 2 hours of UVc once. Won't do that again.
Fried the closest branches.
It would be very useful to apply the UV disproportionately.
Maybe a separate fixture at one end of the grow room.
That will give an A:B compare to gauge results against non-UV plants.
I'm off to pop some popcorn.
Mahalo and Aloha,
Weezard
That does not mean there is none.
I even shield my greenhouse gals from UV.
The buds are extremely potent and that does show that UV is not needed to produce the active ingredients we seek.
I still get a li'l wind damage, but sun damage and resin gland attrition is a thing of the past.
So, I'm pullin' up a chair here.
Hope to learn something more about UV.
I'm sure that I've missed something, worthwhile I often do.
As a guess, the natural UV exposure peaks at noon..
When I was playing with UVa/b, I gave them 4 hours in the middle of the day cycle.
Tried 2 hours of UVc once. Won't do that again.
Fried the closest branches.
It would be very useful to apply the UV disproportionately.
Maybe a separate fixture at one end of the grow room.
That will give an A:B compare to gauge results against non-UV plants.
I'm off to pop some popcorn.
Mahalo and Aloha,
Weezard
Thanks for the props
Have you visited my new thread?
The big improvement in lighting is using the led tubes as soon as there as enough leaf to process the photons. Last grow I did not even have the tubes until 15 days into flower.
Now 32+ days from cracked. There were some issues with getting the nutes inside the 4.5" diameter 1 liter net pots, but got that fixed for this grow. Next grow I will start seedlings in 3.5" net pots, then transfer into the 1 liter APs
Very interesting is the comparison between 432 HOT5 watts using specialty aquarium bubs ND ~ 115W led tubes (76W) + ~50W of A19 globes. Too close to call so far. Been using the HOT5s for 4 grows so they may have lost >20% of their lumen output
Pic #1 HOT5. LED group shot taken 2 days ago
View attachment 237537 View attachment 237538 View attachment 237539
Have you visited my new thread?
The big improvement in lighting is using the led tubes as soon as there as enough leaf to process the photons. Last grow I did not even have the tubes until 15 days into flower.
Now 32+ days from cracked. There were some issues with getting the nutes inside the 4.5" diameter 1 liter net pots, but got that fixed for this grow. Next grow I will start seedlings in 3.5" net pots, then transfer into the 1 liter APs
Very interesting is the comparison between 432 HOT5 watts using specialty aquarium bubs ND ~ 115W led tubes (76W) + ~50W of A19 globes. Too close to call so far. Been using the HOT5s for 4 grows so they may have lost >20% of their lumen output
Pic #1 HOT5. LED group shot taken 2 days ago
View attachment 237537 View attachment 237538 View attachment 237539
Thanks for the info-I can definitely do a test run this time. I'm going to try to do five minutes at thirty minute intervals on one half, and no UV on the other. Decided against splitting my space in half, I will just have one on either side of some sort of separator.
< /br>
So I'll be building two panels then, both identical in spec/parts. I'm tossing around the idea of using 10000k for blue to mix with the warm white instead of going with the NW.(Though KNNA did say that NW was the sweetspot) I don't think he would have had access to the 10000k stuff when he was contributing, please let me know if I'm wrong.
< /br>
< /br>Tried 2 hours of UVc once. Won't do that again.
Fried the closest branches.
Hmm, it seems that our atmosphere blocks most of the UVc radiation,elevation probably matters when it comes to what dosage of a,b,c, to utilize. Of course, that is just theory and thought for now, but who knows, if it's not too expensive I can probably throw that in this test too.
< /br>
It would be very useful to apply the UV disproportionately.
Maybe a separate fixture at one end of the grow room.
That will give an A:B compare to gauge results against non-UV plants.
I'm off to pop some popcorn.
View attachment 237529
Mahalo and Aloha,
Weezard[/quote]
@Petflora
Do you think there are any advantages to using the LED tubes instead of a diy panel? Like everything else preference? You do seem to get some really good results with the WW+NW mix you run. What do you think about doing WW+10000k to supplement the low blue. Then hitting 630/660/680/700 for supplemental red with 680/700 on one driver Emmerson effect, 660 during the last month or so of flower. 740nm runs 15min pre and postday to speed up wake/recovery processes. I understand reds are limited by heat, I'm considering reflowing my diodes myself, I honestly might just skip the stars and do them straight to a liquid cooling block if keeping the temps that low will squeeze out that much more efficiency. How many watts sq/ft would you recommend if I think I need about 2 or 3 feet of penetration also how close would I be able to get that panel to the top of the plants without destroying them. If that's impossible you think a better option is side lighting the colas with the reds with the WW+10k at the top.
Very exciting experience. I have interest in possibly using a few very large WW/10k or NW if they don't make 10k yet with lenses to penetrate the best but like I said I'd like to DIY this but if even those XML2's won't cut it I'll have to go a different route.
Peace.
I haven't tried the variables you are interested in, but 10K seems unnecessary and without dividends. Plants simply do not need much blue light.
Here's an analogy that fits (and why I go basic as opposed to exotic): a car magazine tested the Toyota FR-S (~ $23K) and compared it to a ~ $250K Ferrari. They said the FR-S provides 90% of the Ferrari at 1/10th the price.
There was a contributor here over a year ago who stated that 95% of PSR is in the 600-630nm range. Last grow I did a side- by- side of same clones, supplementing one side with my 3 yo ufo 90, granted it is probably more like 60w, BUT, virtually no difference, so...
What I like about led tubes, but soon going to panels, at least above the canopy is the homogeneity of the light balance. The gaps between the tube engines I have is still too far apart , but have seen others closer together.
Current panel offerings are simply strings of low watt engines abutting one another. Alas, each row should be staggered instead of parallel but...
@Petflora
Do you think there are any advantages to using the LED tubes instead of a diy panel? Like everything else preference? You do seem to get some really good results with the WW+NW mix you run. What do you think about doing WW+10000k to supplement the low blue. Then hitting 630/660/680/700 for supplemental red with 680/700 on one driver Emmerson effect, 660 during the last month or so of flower. 740nm runs 15min pre and postday to speed up wake/recovery processes. I understand reds are limited by heat, I'm considering reflowing my diodes myself, I honestly might just skip the stars and do them straight to a liquid cooling block if keeping the temps that low will squeeze out that much more efficiency. How many watts sq/ft would you recommend if I think I need about 2 or 3 feet of penetration also how close would I be able to get that panel to the top of the plants without destroying them. If that's impossible you think a better option is side lighting the colas with the reds with the WW+10k at the top.
Very exciting experience. I have interest in possibly using a few very large WW/10k or NW if they don't make 10k yet with lenses to penetrate the best but like I said I'd like to DIY this but if even those XML2's won't cut it I'll have to go a different route.
Peace.[/quote]
Alrighty folks, I've decided on a major change to my proposed design with PetFlora's nw+ww recommendation. I'm planning on building two panels, 903w/each.(50w 660nm, 20w 740nm) So I'll be running a grand total of 1800 watts in my 4x2 HydroScrog. I'll be supplementing CO2 as well.
Is that wattage overkill, or will the plants enjoy bathing on the Equator?
I'm also interested in the Emmerson effect, does anybody know the specifics, my understanding is that 660nm when combined with 700nm light helps PhotoA and PhotoB run at peak efficiency, please let me know if this is false, if it is not false, does anybody know where they sell 700nm leds?
My headspace is 7ft, I decided not to split it up, 18inch res, screens set at 10 inches, still going for forearm+ sized colas. I'm going to run the northern skunk for the test, I know that I can get .6/watt from a HPS while poorly taking care of the plants, I'm hoping to match Mr.X in the gpw department. I'm going to be running 4 plants, with continuous top drip.
I'm still finalizing what I need, this will probably be my largest purchase in my life (No house/car) so I'm hoping somebody will let me know their two cents on what I have planned.
Is that wattage overkill, or will the plants enjoy bathing on the Equator
?I'm also interested in the Emmerson effect, does anybody know the specifics, my understanding is that 660nm when combined with 700nm light helps PhotoA and PhotoB run at peak efficiency, please let me know if this is false, if it is not false, does anybody know where they sell 700nm leds?
My headspace is 7ft, I decided not to split it up, 18inch res, screens set at 10 inches, still going for forearm+ sized colas. I'm going to run the northern skunk for the test, I know that I can get .6/watt from a HPS while poorly taking care of the plants, I'm hoping to match Mr.X in the gpw department. I'm going to be running 4 plants, with continuous top drip.
I'm still finalizing what I need, this will probably be my largest purchase in my life (No house/car) so I'm hoping somebody will let me know their two cents on what I have planned.
