Noob needs some help!
- Thread starter boxman420
- Start date
Livnthadream
Member
Sounds like you need to do some research.
Ph 5.5 6.2ish let em ride
ppm- depends on what nutes you use...1000-1200 ppm
There's a general awnserr
Ph 5.5 6.2ish let em ride
ppm- depends on what nutes you use...1000-1200 ppm
There's a general awnserr
Those are fine general answers. I use 5.5Ph and then my plants always move that number up so I adjust daily.
Also I start out my clones and beans on 5.5RO water only. Once I have roots I place my rapid rooters in larger RW cubes and begin to feed with 1/10 strength formula (appx 180 ppm). Over the course of the grow and bloom my plants move up to 1/2 strength formula.
These are weeds they'll tell you what they need start them out with very light food and build strength over time.
Peace,
Also I start out my clones and beans on 5.5RO water only. Once I have roots I place my rapid rooters in larger RW cubes and begin to feed with 1/10 strength formula (appx 180 ppm). Over the course of the grow and bloom my plants move up to 1/2 strength formula.
These are weeds they'll tell you what they need start them out with very light food and build strength over time.
Peace,
E
EvilTwin
Hi Boxman,
Far as ph range...my feeling is a little drift is a good thing. If you've ever looked at a nutrient absorption chart, you can see that different nutrients are best utilized each at it's own range and they aren't all the same. So I let my res drift from Oh, say 5.4 right after correcting up to 6.2 before correcting again. About like the guys said. Makes life easier and doesn't hurt the plants at all.
If you shoot for super tight control...you'll drive yourself bonkers and probably screw up the plants too.
Peace,
ET
Far as ph range...my feeling is a little drift is a good thing. If you've ever looked at a nutrient absorption chart, you can see that different nutrients are best utilized each at it's own range and they aren't all the same. So I let my res drift from Oh, say 5.4 right after correcting up to 6.2 before correcting again. About like the guys said. Makes life easier and doesn't hurt the plants at all.
If you shoot for super tight control...you'll drive yourself bonkers and probably screw up the plants too.
Peace,
ET
Livnthadream
Member
I was going to say that as well...I heard adjusting your ph daily can effect your ppm readings to. Plus it's stressfull as hell.
I do a recirculating Deep Water Culture system. I run my ph from 5.7-6.2. I use the two part Lucas Formula feeding system, and during veg my ppm is anywhere from 400-700, and for flowering, it's usually double that range. I don't Ph down my system "ever". When my plants hit 6.2 in the ph range, I dump the water and put in fresh water, then re-adjust with feed and ph down as if I were starting out again. This keeps the water a better temperature (at least where I live it gets warmer and warmer the longer you keep the water), and any pathogens or microbes growing in the water that would be harmful to the root system is also dumped.
So there is some things for you to look into.
Also to check your PPM you use an EC/PPM meter. I use the Bluelab EC Stick. I don't recommend it personally.
http://www.getbluelab.com/shop/Bluelab+French+EC+Truncheon%AE+Meter.html
So you know to avoid it! Reason I don't like it... It doesn't have a digital read out. Just lights up these goofy LED's on the side of it...
And the biggest reason, it doesn't have a light for "ZERO" so your not sure sometimes if the batteries are just dead, water is too cold, or if the water is actually at zero ppm. Retarded design. Bad Bluelab team, bad!
A
alpinestar
5.5 to 7.0 are the extremes
The more acidic (5.5 to 6.0) is leaning more to hydro. 6.0 to 6.5 soil/soiless 7.0 is about as high as you want to let it go in soil. If it goes that high in hydro, you're probably going to be dealing with problems.
you change the ph and nutrients, gradually at different times in flowering. What you actually do depends on what your plant is wants at the time.
nutrients levels should normally be started at half of what the manufacturer's recommendation is, then slowly moved upward
if you have an ec meter,
sativas generally start at 1.0 1.5 ec
indicas and hybrids can usually take a good 1.5 to 1.8 ec
in hydro, this can be higher
hydro offers slightly faster finishing time and larger yields than soil
soil holds more nutrients than a soil less media, like coco.
soil less allows nutrients to be "flushed" out every time you water, so its closer to hydro, but without the system
Biscut Eater
Member
Spend a few extra bucks on a good PH/EC/PPM meter. Also buy extra calibrating and storage solutions. I calibrate everytime I measure anything. I too use the Lucas formula/ratio in my ebb and flow tanks. I measure ph and ppm's every 4 days or so. In rockwool I float between 5.8 and 6.2. Take good care of that meter my friend!
E
EvilTwin
Hi BE, I agree with everything you say here except calibrating at every measurement. If you do that, I'll bet you're the only one. That's sort of extreme really.
I use narrow range litmus paper as an occasional double check. It's quick and easy. The thing is, after you get to know your system, you can almost predict what the results will be. You're used to how much correction should be needed and if your meter gives you an off the wall reading, then calibrate and double check.
One piece of advice is to be sure that your meters are waterproof. Some cheaper models aren't and it's inevitable that it will get dropped. I killed two Hanna Checkers before learning that lesson.
Also, I use the Bluelab truncheon and find it to be stable and reliable. It's my third TDS meter and the best one I've ever owned. The no zero light hasn't been an issue. It isn't useful for double checking my RO filter...I'll admit that. But for res management it rocks.
Peace,
ET
Biscut Eater
Member
For me, it only takes a minute or two. My meter does seem to need tiny adjustments from reading to reading (Milwaulkee). It's all about peace of mind for me.
