Originally Posted by Snook
...but I don't know if yer with me or against me...
That certainly is an unexpected question if/when considered from where i stand but i have no reluctance to appologize should the formulation have felt unpleasant or else. Actually i suspect it's possible it was my (forged/imported) "Drama Queen" reputation which made resonating echoes that evoked such present worries, i gather; the recent deletion of related work elsewhere, just yesterday (...), for example, would only appear to support your decision should you have decided that i may not be welcome on this other forum board anymore!
Originally Posted by Snook
...more than half of it I cant follow...
And me explain as i've got no teacher skills, really, yet i'm determined to share the fun if you're willing. It turns out i wrote a brief concatenation of what that's all about this morning, in *1* post that even included the less shiny stuff i mentioned which is likely to have surfaced on your radar by now:
BL: "Harm Reduction type of modded vaporizer pipe"
Sorry again, about the external link i mean. Please remove as you see fit, it only serves the purpose of taking some of the workload away.
Originally Posted by Snook
I taste the butane when lighting a joint...
Then how does one explain that i don't taste butane when i pre-heat that pipe's hybrid core?? The answer is operator errors i shall bet. At least there are basic tricks you can try but it occurs to me that i already wrote my own version of "the 10 commandments
" a long time ago. Lucky me it was right on the page before, so i'll conveniently Cut 'n Paste it in here, if you don't mind.
[ https://plus.google.com/u/0/collection/AsJSIB ]
This is the English equivalent of my instructions as published previously:
0 - About Bowl loading, Always Fill and Never Pack. Keep in mind the Support Loop located right under a pipe's Cannabic Bowl needs to be "flipped" after removal as this greatly eases reinsertion, simply by screwing it in clockwise.
1 - With butane and/or it's related compounds present in the lungs path make sure there's ALWAYS a clean burning flame to convert butane from such stream into relatively safe superheated Water Vapor and Carbonic Gas, while taking care to inhale with much less force (by lifting the thumb over a pipe's PinHole) to pre-heat the Hybrid Core of a customized Sphere.
2 - NEVER let a flame touch anything as this will result in the addition of soot plus other nuisances. All that is required to be captured by the Flame-Catcher to inject a "Heat Charge" or "Energy Bubble" has to do with the Energy-Carrying Exhaust + some Radiative Heat.
3 - NEVER light up or extinguist a butane lighter close to the Flame Catcher. Flint-Wheel Yellow-Flame models generate health-hasard particles in the spark while the Blue Flame ones may fail to consume butane cleanly, extinguish at random and/or spit out liquid butane droplets not converted by fire... Briefly put, ALWAYS wait for a flame to stabilize before it's taken close to the Flame-Catcher Aperture.
4 - When a primary PinHole is available lift thumb during Pre-Heating. Once the Sphere is sufficiently energized, e.g. between 2~5 seconds depending on a butane lighter, use its stored heat which has just been temporarily injected into the Hybrid Core WITHOUT any butane and/or related stream present near the Flame-Catcher Aperture. This indirect/residual energy-source alone suffices to proceed with the actual Vaporization process.
5 - While vaporizing obstruct the PinHole in brief pulses, very short at first then increasingly longer to compensate for lost heat from the Hybrid Core as its energy reserve gets depleted. The periods with no PinHole-obstructive thumb in action contribute to oxygenation of the cannabic stream while promoting early detection of vaporization signs, especially hints as aroma/taste. Think of some method vaguely similar to "pumping" a car's breaks in an emergy maneuver situation, the goal being to probe using a sequence of short pulses instead of attempting to get it done in 1 single long pulse.
6 - A ~125 mg Bowl provides about 5~6 tokes, the left-over can be made useful at a later to produce relaxing cookies. Don't forget that once in a while even an empty cannabic Bowl can provide some satisfying toke (or two) from a sticky screen alone. Evidently stronger cookies should result from leaving more THC behind from vaping.
7 - It's time for cleanup maintenance when the pipe stops working as usual. Pick a pipe stick wetted with 94 % pure grain alcohol to clean wood VG Handles. NEVER allow the wood to absorb water as this would promote cracks in the wood. Metal models are to be prefered when condensed noble molecules need to be "reclaimed", though these feel heavier in the hand while wood's near organic-like aspects would prove more "sexy". Alternately, wood is an absorbing material so this makes it less desirable if/when resin reclaims are desired.
8 - Initially i found the genuine layout with VG's DuckLips MouthPiece was getting uncomfortably hot, the addition of a half-ball stainless steel object down under my cannabic Bowl paved the way to lower-temperature cannabic vapor being sent towards the lungs; as an option it may also help to capture particles in the cannabic vapor using a tiny cotton ball which somewhat adds to the cooling action after getting moist.
9 - When attempting to reconfigure the DuckLips MouthPiece to reflect the side-wise preference of an operator (e.g. right vs left) try to never forget about twisting it lightly while pulling on it with care as it's brittle.
10 - The need for eye-contact on the flame tip may require a Flexible Plastic PVC Tubing Extension. A length of 12.5 cm will do and that's a better place where to install the optional cotton ball. Last but not least, clear plastic makes it easy to monitor butane consumption based on water vapor condensation creating droplets in the tube after a potential abuse situation, or operating error, etc. The Tubing Extension will opacify if/when abuse continues, ultimately. End the session and re-evaluate operator skills if this occurs, don't forget to shake off liquid water droplets after removing that tube.
M'well that was then and this is now, maybe an update will prove usefull, eventually. Lets see! I'm only hoping this can answer your questions pre-emptively but i also welcome more!!
Originally Posted by Snook
I'm not a scientist and sometimes not the brightest bulb in the package but inert material in lungs cant, in the long run, be good, IMO.
Ah! Finally a most challenging question.
N. B.: Please keep in mind i'm always tempted to refocus on the announced topic instead of *me*, the message carrier, etc.; hence the rest can only derail a conversation with me around! Nuke me if that's not tolerable.
Anyway i myself once had some similar concern at the sight of SiC dust resulting from the cold/hot (heat-powered) grinding action that may take place where surfaces still include angle features. At least i can testify that there were debris in the very begining when i tressed the material quite excessively, beyond reason to a point i ruined a sphere's paint finish (...), while i was still having so much more work to accomplish - evidently!
Years later my "Micro-Bursting" ritual begins with a Pre-Heat pulse that has been reduced in duration most radically (5 ~ 6 fold!), no longer probing the field with some dirty yellow 12 ~ 15 seconds flame using relatively "heavy" configurations that eventually required high-throttle "power" (kitchen!) flames to deal with them, initially!...
Then i gradually succeed taming down my "Heat Charge" in size, so to speak, searching for an ultimate "sweet-spot" covering the desired range of applications. E. G. without the "Pepper" and "Punch in the Face" effects as that was supposed to raise popular acceptability in a "Harm Reduction" context!...
As a result of constant work in progress i tried to explore various parameter combinations iteratively which allowed conversion to a cleaner blue butane flame lasting only 2 ~ 3 seconds as Pre-Heat bursts, with the flame removed before the real vaporist work begins.
Briefly put the SiC issues i've once observed should no longer cause apprehensions or at least not of the same magnitude, simply because the excess stress was finally removed and hence i no longer hear the characteristic cracking. That's why i kept using wet cotton to complement the path, though the experimenter is always free of adapting this system to anything he sees fit using even more performant materials (or switch to "Plan-A" for that matter!), because it's not about "me" (i don't view myself as a good topic , honestly!).
Yet if my "Lava" concept (and similar) ever managed to sound appealing and/or "sexy", stimulating, useful, valuable somehow, whatever, etc., then i'd feel like submitting this other challenge to the attention of the reader: to oppose the bigot anti-cannabic prohibitionist army with a true "weapon of mass seduction
" on planet Itnoc!!
In a way that's all it always was about since the begining.
Good day, have fun!!