-
Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
-
Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!
Leafs turning yellow
- Thread starter T5454
- Start date
Roots need more oxygen.
This is really not enough information. I don't even know the medium is. Or the temperature and humidity.
However what it looks like at first glance:
- Potassium deficiency during flowering
This could be underfeeding or lockout of a mobile nutrient, which are N, P, K and Mg.
- Mildew
This could be lack of airflow.
The checklist to go down is to check:
- EC/PPM
- pH
- insects
- airflow
Hi.
You’re probably over watering the plant abit…not too badly but enough to see some leaf damage. Just allow the soil to dry abit more before watering.
One trick on how to get a feel how much moisture there is in the soil, is by lifting the container abit if you can. There’s quite a weight difference between bone dry soil and a pot of soil that has just been watered.
When you start getting the idea how a container feels in your hands when you should water the plant and when not to, you’ll also start getting an idea which part of the container still has some moisture in the soil when you swing/turn the container in your hands. Meaning, you can actually feel if the container is bottom or top heavy. And this is useful when the bottom half is still quite moist but the top half starts to get abit too dry, so you’ll know to water them just abit, so that the bottom half of the container won’t get any of it.
Hope you’ll get it sorted, but it’s not too bad. But a little over watering issue, imo.
You’re probably over watering the plant abit…not too badly but enough to see some leaf damage. Just allow the soil to dry abit more before watering.
One trick on how to get a feel how much moisture there is in the soil, is by lifting the container abit if you can. There’s quite a weight difference between bone dry soil and a pot of soil that has just been watered.
When you start getting the idea how a container feels in your hands when you should water the plant and when not to, you’ll also start getting an idea which part of the container still has some moisture in the soil when you swing/turn the container in your hands. Meaning, you can actually feel if the container is bottom or top heavy. And this is useful when the bottom half is still quite moist but the top half starts to get abit too dry, so you’ll know to water them just abit, so that the bottom half of the container won’t get any of it.
Hope you’ll get it sorted, but it’s not too bad. But a little over watering issue, imo.
Ok,
1. I don't know what liquid nutrients you're giving them
You should use late flowering/bloom food. A low concentration of 0.4 EC high P/K nutrients like Green Sensation, Atami B'Cuzz, Canna PK 13/14.
2. Transplant into a larger pot.
This will really increase bud size if you transplant just into flower.
When you transplant, always transplant into a soil that is less hot than the medium the plant is in right now. If it is, fill the pot with hot soil, then 1 inch of light soil, put the plant on top of that and fill in the sides with more light soil. Then water with 0.4 EC of high PK nutrients and 0.1 EC of epsom salt (Mg for the leaves).
Don't mess with the roots at all other than holding the rootball for support.
This will prevent transplant shock, which is not a good thing in flowering. The plants will recover in hours.
When root growth happens during flowering, it supports the growth of flowers instead of branches and leaves. That's also the big difference between hydroponics and soil, in hydro the roots can grow into water unobstructed, while in soil you have to create extra root space by transplanting or topping up pots with flowering soil.
3. When to water
When you water the medium, do it slowly and thoroughly, and see how much water the soil can hold.
Then don't water again until the top of the soil is no longer wet before the lights go on or the sun comes up.
Think of it as the plant getting watered by evaporation.
This way you'll never overwater or underwater. It's also dynamic because it compensates for changes in humidity or growth of the plant. No schedule, except the one set by the plant and the environment.
St. Phatty
Active member
I used Foxfarm too, on top of last year's soil, in a 32 gallon container.
One way to give the roots Oxygen is, put a bubbler in a container with COLD water before using that water to bucket-water the plants.
And give them enough water so that some comes out the bottom.
As the water does out the bottom, it will suck new air down around the roots.
Also, the bubbler is to add Oxygen to the water before you feed them. Cold water holds more Oxygen.
Sunshineinabag
Active member
Rinse up pistachio shells and add them to your medium it can help in these circumstances
