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Absolute Amber from Banana Silver Ladyboys

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
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It's finally done
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back shot
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I used a bunch of bho scraps I had laying around, way to much imo, all from tubular extraction. I dissolved it all in warm everclear, it was very dark amber color, froze over night with the freezer on full blast. I filtered with a frozen reusable coffee filter in the freezer. I still saw stuff in there so I froze and filtered again. There was still some specks in it but at this point I realized I needed a better filtration system or I need to do less at at time with more everclear. Purging took forever and a day on a hot plate.
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That's what it looked like in the purging pan after almost a full day and couple of scrapings and thinning it out flat.
The taste is super smooth a lot better than iso wash.Still nowhere near the taste of good bho imo.The texture is one step away from shatter at about 70 degrees F, if you bend it slowly it is pliable but any fast movement and it will break, put it in the freezer and its like glass. I do have a lil more confidence to do the next run start to finish with the intent of making aa amd only using one strain.

Thanks again jump, I think I will get it next time.

Hee, hee, hee, nice color
 

jump117

Well-known member
Veteran
Evaporation of ethanol from a thick resin without heating is not efficient enough.

The presence of ethanol, softens and prevents resin turned into amber.
Perhaps this consistency is preferable to someone, but here it is accompanied by a slight scent of vodka.
More complete removal of ethanol, is likely to be accompanied by a loss of flavor,
because it requires reducing the viscosity of the resin heated to melting,
or even raising the temperature above the boiling point of ethanol.

The vacuum lowers the boiling point, but do not eliminate the need for heating
to reduce resin viscosity and increase the mobility of ethanol.

Let us turn to GrayWolf (Hey!)
with the request to tell the experience of the practical application of vacuum
for evaporation of a thin layer of resin solution in ethanol.
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
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Evaporation of ethanol from a thick resin without heating is not efficient enough.

The presence of ethanol, softens and prevents resin turned into amber.
Perhaps this consistency is preferable to someone, but here it is accompanied by a slight scent of vodka.
More complete removal of ethanol, is likely to be accompanied by a loss of flavor,
because it requires reducing the viscosity of the resin heated to melting,
or even raising the temperature above the boiling point of ethanol.

The vacuum lowers the boiling point, but do not eliminate the need for heating
to reduce resin viscosity and increase the mobility of ethanol.

Let us turn to GrayWolf (Hey!)
with the request to tell the experience of the practical application of vacuum
for evaporation of a thin layer of resin solution in ethanol.

As Jump notes, the efficiency of purging alcohol from thick resinous material diminishes as it becomes more solid and any technique that removes more of the alcohol, also removes more of the aromatic turpenoids.

My thin film vacuum purging experiments, involved putting a thin layer of alcohol tincture in a Pitri dish, and placing it in a vacuum chamber, where I could apply heat from a hot plate, as required.

No heat is required to bring the tincture to a boil under 29.5" Hg vacuum, and because it shifts the azeotropic balance of the 95% ethanol used, the alcohol mostly comes off first, leaving the water. The water then boils off more slowly, leaving behind a loose oil, still containing a small amount of alcohol.

The remaining alcohol is last to leave, because alcohol and cannabis oil also form an azeotropic balance, and just enough alcohol remains to leave the viscosity of the cannabis oil low enough to still lightly flow when the Pitri dish is tilted to the side at ambient temperatures.

That remaining alcohol can be removed by simply setting the dish aside and letting it evaporate off, or heating to speed up the evaporation.

After setting aside for a day or so, the remaining oil has a high viscosity, with no slump. See run lines before final resting in attached picture:

Heating above 66C/151F (160F), keeps the cannabinoid resins molten, which increases the mobility of the remaining alcohol molecules, and speeds their departure, especially under vacuum.

Under vacuum, the departure is even faster, but as Jump points out, there is a loss of aromatic turpenoids, with accompanying loss of flavor and smell.

For best flavor when vaporized, I've found pulling a hard vacuum until the water is gone and then letting it rest for a day or so at atmospheric pressure and ambient temperatures, to purge out the remaining alcohol, best achieves that end, rather than raising the temperature and speeding up the purge.

For oral medications, I usually do use heat, and don't even bother with the vacuum. I just plop the container of oil in a 250F oil bath, and watch the bubbles. When all the large irregular bubbles are gone, and the barrage of minute equally sized CO2 bubbles suddenly falls dramatically off, it is both purged below detectable limits and decarboxylated for oral absorption. Decarboxylating drops the viscosity of the starting oil significantly, and leaves oil with slump at ambient temperatures.
 

Gray Wolf

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Solly, forgot the picture and then it wouldn't edit................
 

Attachments

  • Thin film vacuum purged BHO absolute (3).jpg
    Thin film vacuum purged BHO absolute (3).jpg
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hammalamma

Member
Veteran
Thanks GW,

My vacuum setup is a not the greatest, its a brake bleeding pump and a food saver jar. I can only get to about 22hg.

How much does a decent pump and vac chamber go for?

Can any one point me in the right direction?

They have them at my local science shop but super expensive for what it is.
 

Gray Wolf

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Thanks GW,

My vacuum setup is a not the greatest, its a brake bleeding pump and a food saver jar. I can only get to about 22hg.

How much does a decent pump and vac chamber go for?

Can any one point me in the right direction?

They have them at my local science shop but super expensive for what it is.
I scored our used glass vacuum desiccator for a couple of hundred dollars a year ago at the local American Scientific. They had two and may still have the second used one. I can pm you their number if you are interested.

You can pull -28.5" Hg with just a faucet vacuum aspirator, for under $20, if you have adequate water pressure and flow. You can also hook a faucet vacuum aspirator to a water pump, so as to use less water. You can also buy systems that already have the water pump, vacuum aspirator, and reservoir, but they are expensive.

I use a AC vacuum pump to pull to down to 100 microns, which I purchased on E-Bay for $195. There are 760,000 microns in an atmosphere, so that represents .00013 atmospheres left.

It is not suitable for extended vacuum distillation, without suitable protective cold traps, because of crankcase dilution.
 

hammalamma

Member
Veteran
I scored our used glass vacuum desiccator for a couple of hundred dollars a year ago at the local American Scientific. They had two and may still have the second used one. I can pm you their number if you are interested.

You can pull -28.5" Hg with just a faucet vacuum aspirator, for under $20, if you have adequate water pressure and flow. You can also hook a faucet vacuum aspirator to a water pump, so as to use less water. You can also buy systems that already have the water pump, vacuum aspirator, and reservoir, but they are expensive.

I use a AC vacuum pump to pull to down to 100 microns, which I purchased on E-Bay for $195. There are 760,000 microns in an atmosphere, so that represents .00013 atmospheres left.

It is not suitable for extended vacuum distillation, without suitable protective cold traps, because of crankcase dilution.

Thank you GW,
If I can't find the desicator local for around the same I will def hit you up.
I don't think my apartment has enough water pressure for the faucet aspirator, 41 or 42 on my ro gauge. I'm gonna be moving into a better spot soon so maybe it will work there, but the 200 don't sound to bad for the ac vacuum.
Is extended vacuum distillation what you do with a recovery system like a tamisium? Like using it to suck solvent?
 

hammalamma

Member
Veteran
aa round 2

aa round 2

Had to give it another go. I used only two grams this time and again random bits and pieces of bho.
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I need to get a better camera. Does all aa taste the same when vaping?

Jump I think I have found a new addiction, I mean hobby. Thanks a lot buddy!:good:
 

jump117

Well-known member
Veteran
1st & 2nd

1st & 2nd

Here is the story in detail of one gram of AA from 09-24-2011.
Amber was extracted from the dried flowers red rust-colored such as I already posted before,
they were oxidized by long storing at room temperature.

Flowers frozen in the thermos together with a can.
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Extracted in two successive rinses in butane cooled to -20C,
1st rinse for 30 minutes and 2nd for 2 hours. Both were winterized in ethanol.

1st rinse 0-30” 0,6g.
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1st and 2nd together
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:wave:
 

jump117

Well-known member
Veteran
After two primal washes the oil-cake was decarbed to final extraction of the residual resin.
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Loading decarbed cake into the thermos to freeze.
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Residual decarboxilated resin, 0,15g. Washed in 45 minutes.
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=======================
It’s the end of extraction.
Now I think the cake is empty.
30ml, 4,25 g.
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jump117

Well-known member
Veteran
Weights and %%

Weights and %%

Total______5,45 g ____100%
Cake______4,25

decarbed___0,15______3%
filter’______0,05______ 1%
second____ 0,4 _______7%
first_______0,6 ______11%
------------------------------
resin______ 1,2 g ____22%



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Last edited:

ElRubio

Active member
Veteran
Re: Absolute Amber from Banana Silver Ladyboys

those rates are great imo.
22% return, separeted qualities, its sounds a lot of work...im sure it worths.
thanks for the info mate!
big ups Jump!!!
 

jump117

Well-known member
Veteran
Activated Charcoal

Activated Charcoal

:thank you:
I've been doing experiments on the treatment with activated carbon to butane and ethanol extracts,
the fact that the color has improved, but the question of the losses good resin remained open,

I did not weigh the samples before and aftertheir interaction with coal.
Activated Carbon - is linky, click the underlined words "activated carbon" and you'll jump to description posted by Grassman.

I use it in a little different manner:

-dissolve an extract in ethanol,
-add crumbled activated carbon (from pharmacy) into solution,
-mix and stir in few minutes,
-filter and evaporate.

The resulting product is less in amount but has a better color and consistence.
Activated carbon removes green color and improves dense of the extract.
It also takes away some good resin as a payment for cleaning.
Finally it has come a bright day and I did an experiment, conceived long ago.
I decided to sacrifice 0.4 g AA piece of second (2 hours) flushing.

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This amber did not need additional purification and was pure enough to experiment with activated charcoal.

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It's my fingertips! :)
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This transparent and fragile amber was dissolved in ethanol, 40-50 ml.

Crushed pharmaceutical activated charcoal 2.5 g was filled into the solution.



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After 15 minutes of stirring, filtering and washing the coal with fresh ethanol
solution was evaporated on a steam bath.

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remains of

The loss of a good resin of 400 mg in 40-50 ml of ethanol is 150 mg to 2.5 g of coal for 15 minutes at room temperature.

Sensible loss of useful resin must accompany the process of cleaning a dirty extract with activated carbon from chlorophyll and its satellites.
This is the fee for effective cleaning. :)
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
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ICMag Donor
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You must spread...............

Good job Jump!

Pretty product! How did it taste?
 
Jump and Greywolf, I have some questions regarding the initial butane extraction:

I experienced earlier this week, when evaporating butane off of the solution that the thinner part finished purging sooner than the thicker part, this part of the extraction not only saw heat for less time but it saw much less heat. i scraped the thinner parts as soon as they finished, and ended up a much lighter color than the thicker areas of the extraction that i scraped later. What im getting at is this obviously means a lower quality product regarding the darker oil, so my question for you two is what can we do to preserve the quality of the extraction as to not darken it with excessive/ prolonged heat? Im aware and not happy with the fact that im losing taste and/ or potency because just because i do not own a vacuum setup, so i thought there might be a solution that im missing.
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Jump and Greywolf, I have some questions regarding the initial butane extraction:

I experienced earlier this week, when evaporating butane off of the solution that the thinner part finished purging sooner than the thicker part, this part of the extraction not only saw heat for less time but it saw much less heat. i scraped the thinner parts as soon as they finished, and ended up a much lighter color than the thicker areas of the extraction that i scraped later. What im getting at is this obviously means a lower quality product regarding the darker oil, so my question for you two is what can we do to preserve the quality of the extraction as to not darken it with excessive/ prolonged heat? Im aware and not happy with the fact that im losing taste and/ or potency because just because i do not own a vacuum setup, so i thought there might be a solution that im missing.

Perhaps Jump has more thoughts, but I can only think of two off the top of my head.

The first is that because of the anthocyanins present, colors act strangely. One thin layer can be yellow and two thin layers can be amber, with no difference in the material.

The second is that any minute particles making it through the filter, might gravitate toward the low point in the plate.
 

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