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Use of timers with digital ballasts...

A

akuira

New member
All that I need to know is, what type of timer is best for use with a digital ballast, specifically the Lumatek 120V 400W HPS/MH Digital Ballast... i thought i remembered a while back i read about making your own timer, the title of the article was, "Why has my timer switch failed and what should I do?"... but in this DIY it looks like he is on a 240V circuit, where as i am on a 120V... now that its time to get this thing started, i cant find any good info about a simple/basic timer (obviously i don't want a fire, but money is a concern so DIY's seem to be my best pick so far...).

from what i have found from searching, there is a difference when you have a digital ballast, but no one seems to specify if you still need the fancy timers with them...

what type of timer would you recommend for my 120V Lumatek 400W HPS Digital ballast? and any DIY links for these setups (NOT flip flops, thats all i can seem to find anymore)... they're always fun

thanks in advance
 
HeadyPete

HeadyPete

Take Five...
Veteran
i use a heavy duty 3 prong mechanical timer with my Galaxy 600.

something like this:

416V6RRCJ1L.jpg
 
A

akuira

New member
HeadyPete said:
i use a heavy duty 3 prong mechanical timer with my Galaxy 600.

something like this:

416V6RRCJ1L.jpg
Click to expand...

thanks for the quick response, would you happen to know what its rated for? or even just the brand name would help, i could search from there... thanks again
 
FyahBlaZe

FyahBlaZe

Member
It dont matter what brand you get bro i think mine are intermatic.
Just make sure you get a grounded timer rated for a minimum 15amps.
I got heavy duty ones on my 1k lights and they are rated for 20amps.
Just go to the hardware store and pick one up.
 
A

akuira

New member
FyahBlaZe said:
It dont matter what brand you get bro i think mine are intermatic.
Just make sure you get a grounded timer rated for a minimum 15amps.
I got heavy duty ones on my 1k lights and they are rated for 20amps.
Just go to the hardware store and pick one up.
Click to expand...

good deal... i was on my way out to get one rated for 20amps, checked the post and well thanks! i figure i'll go ahead and get the 20amp incase i upgrade the 400W to the 1000W later down the road. thanks again man
 
A

akuira

New member
i actually just found a timer i picked up at wally world some time ago, Brinks Model 42-1020 (15min intervals)... now im a little confused cause it says:

- 15A, 1875 W Resistive Loading (General Purpose)
- 1/2 HP
- 120V/60Hz
- 10A, 1250 W Tungsten (Lighting)

so that means, this is not good enough as it says only 10A (lighting)... am i correct?
sorry, i still learning and just don't need a melted timer, or worse... thanks
 
H

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran
This is the type of timer you're looking for. I highly recommend it for 400w on up.

It IS just a bit much for a 400w but definitely worth the insurance. $50-60 isn't much to pay for the lack of a fire risk.
Intermatic T101 40Amp Timer
*** Edit *** The 15 and 20 amp models are a bit cheaper, around $20-30. They're also acceptable.
Given the choice between a 15A and 20A circuit, I'll spend the extra $2-3 every time. :)

The article you're looking for is this one....



Normal household timers are not designed or rated to deal with the inductive power load used by horticultural lighting. There are 2 ways around this, you could go to your local Hydro shop and buy a contactor all built and ready to go along with a hefty price tag. Or you can get yourself a suitable change over Contact Relay switch, this will only set you back a few $$ ££. A contact relay switch is required so that the timer turns on the contactor which then turns the light on.

Almost all new growers will experience this failure. The reason for this is the contacts in these timers are not sufficient for the job. Household timers are rated for a RESISTIVE load, ballasts present an INDUCTIVE load, (a very large surge at switch on) this fuses the timer contacts together = Timer failure.

You can find the rest of the article HERE

:rasta:
 
Last edited:
F

FarmerTed

Member
akuira, i have the same ballast and have been using a standard intermatic 15a timer on a 15a circuit plugged into a surge protector. I have had no problems in over a year. I believe lumatek digital ballasts have "soft" start so your timers not getting a jolt of juice when it turns on your ballast. Match your timer amps to your circuit & you should be alright.
 
Harry Gypsna

Harry Gypsna

Dirty hippy Bastard
Veteran
i did read somewhere that you dont need a rely with digi ballasts....... dunno if its correct i but i remember reading it....
 
B

Beanfish

Member
As stated by Hydro-Soil and VenturaHwy, the Intermatic T101 is probably the most reliable timer you will find.

I have had mine for years and DO NOT regret spending the $50 on it. Well worth it. I run a 600w Lumatek and a 400w c&c (switching to 1000w c&c and 600w Lumatek for flower) with no issues at all.

 
RottenDawg

RottenDawg

Member
Beanfish said:
As stated by Hydro-Soil and VenturaHwy, the Intermatic T101 is probably the most reliable timer you will find.

I have had mine for years and DO NOT regret spending the $50 on it. Well worth it. I run a 600w Lumatek and a 400w c&c (switching to 1000w c&c and 600w Lumatek for flower) with no issues at all.

Click to expand...

The inline timer is necessary for 220v electronic ballasts (T104). The plug in timer for 220v does not support electronic ballasts. For 110v any plug in timer will work fine. I like the Intermatic digital timer for 110v. Peace...........RD
 
B

badugi

Beanfish said:
As stated by Hydro-Soil and VenturaHwy, the Intermatic T101 is probably the most reliable timer you will find.

I have had mine for years and DO NOT regret spending the $50 on it. Well worth it. I run a 600w Lumatek and a 400w c&c (switching to 1000w c&c and 600w Lumatek for flower) with no issues at all.

Click to expand...
IMO a mechanical Intermatic timer is unnecessary and an overkill for a 400w lighting application. I just replaced my T104 40A 2-pole timer with a contactor + digital timer based controller for roughly the same price.

Just about any grounded "heavy duty" (15A rated) timer will do, including digitals. I actually prefer digital timers nowadays and won't ever go back to using mechanical ones simply because of battery backup and being able to easily set the time to whenever you want it, w/o messing and fiddling. For higher load applications, I use a contactor / relay, for 600w and under I use it directly. 1000w's will work 99% of the time w/o problems, but I don't trust them for ~10A continuous load and the 1% that it will melt / overheat / otherwise fail on you, it can cost you your entire crop. (In other words, if you're running 1000w you can afford a decent timer.)

I believe a typical ballast draws both inductive and resistive loads (but mainly inductive).
 
Last edited:
B

Beanfish

Member
badugi said:
IMO a mechanical Intermatic timer is unnecessary and an overkill for a 400w lighting application. I just replaced my T104 40A 2-pole timer with a contactor + digital timer based controller for roughly the same price.

Just about any grounded "heavy duty" (15A rated) timer will do, including digitals. I actually prefer digital timers nowadays and won't ever go back to using mechanical ones simply because of battery backup and being able to easily set the time to whenever you want it, w/o messing and fiddling. For higher load applications, I use a contactor / relay, for 600w and under I use it directly. 1000w's will work 99% of the time w/o problems, but I don't trust them for ~10A continuous load and the 1% that it will melt / overheat / otherwise fail on you, it can cost you your entire crop. (In other words, if you're running 1000w you can afford a decent timer.)

I believe a typical ballast draws both inductive and resistive loads (but mainly inductive).
Click to expand...

badugi makes a good point that the T101 is overkill for smaller loads. The reasons I bought one are:
1. no need for me to upgrade, probably ever.
2. I started out with a 1000w c&c and I do not trust plug in timers for this type of load. This thing will probably handle anything I ever will throw at it (fans, lights, pumps etc).
3. I put my elect. outlets in the ceiling of my grow cuz I hang my 1000W ballast from lag bolts in the rafters (basement). I didn't want to use a plug-in timer because it would have needed to be secured (didn't want it to fall or get pulled out). I'm paranoid, I know. :crazy:
4. Fires scare the hell out of me and I will NEVER have to worry about the Intermatic.
 
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Y

yamaha_1fan

If you all only knew how much I had running off one timer, you would crap.


OK, I have 1 1000W, 1 8 bulb T5 and 2 4-foot fluros


Been like that for a year. Now that I have come up to speed on contactors, I may switch.

I feel like any timer can handle a 400 Watt ballast
 
B

badugi

Beanfish said:
1. no need for me to upgrade, probably ever.
Click to expand...
That's my favorite reason, future-proofing by over-sizing. I hate buying the same thing twice.

Beanfish said:
3. I put my elect. outlets in the ceiling of my grow cuz I hang my 1000W ballast from lag bolts in the rafters (basement). I didn't want to use a plug-in timer because it would have needed to be secured (didn't want it to fall or get pulled out). I'm paranoid, I know.
Click to expand...
Absolutely love it. You might be paranoid, but you're playing safe and efficient. There's really no need for outlets below waist level in a growroom IMO.
 
ChaosCatalunya

ChaosCatalunya

5.2 club is now 8.1 club...
Veteran
cheap timers spack out when you put heavy loads through the switch, HPS start up at +/- 3x running amperage, digis a bit less I think, but not enough to trust a $20 timer with.

Any timer can HIDs run fine when you isolate it with a contactor [of the correct rating...] but old style mechanical timers usually have big fat well sprung contacts that can handle a good spanking.

I normally use old bakelite and perspex Sangamo mechanical timers, bomb proof and only wobble was with 4 600s, so I stick to 3.

It is not an area to skimp on IMO, get it wrong and your lovely babies will be AC/DCs not Led Zepplins ;-)
 
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