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Old 04-08-2018, 05:16 PM #11
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It is assumed that field soil weighs 2,000,000 lbs per acre to the depth of a furrow slice. This is where the parts per million come into play...

Most Farmer's will use that number and assume 40,000 sqft per acre to make math easier.

This is for field soil...aka real soil.

To be 100% accurate with a soil less mix you would need to know what a cubic foot of it weighs. Then from there you can determine the weight of an acre of that soil and get your amendments very close.

Now... I don't do all of that... If I am in field soil and we are fertilizing to a depth of 6" I use the normal method, If your fertilizing to 12", double your numbers.

In soil-less mixes I have always just halved the 6" number to account for the light weight medium...I have always been very close to my numbers..whether that is luck or not... I have been using the k3 from spectrum and see very little difference in the tests coming from MSU that are not weighed.

Someone that actually weighs there mix and does the calculations that way should chime in and let us know how they do it.
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Old 04-09-2018, 03:35 AM #12
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I agree, I always use 43,560.

Lots of old timers still don't around here...maybe it is something about calculators...
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Old 04-11-2018, 05:17 PM #13
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It looks like We are alone here ...

Which route are we taking here? Are more people interested in soil-less mediums or real soil?
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Old 04-11-2018, 05:45 PM #14
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Soilless this year
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Old 04-12-2018, 04:33 AM #15
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I would love to see some ideas for soiless peat and coco mixes - specifically some recommendations for gypsum and borax amendment amounts for these mixes.

I blindly played with gypsum and borax all year on a multitude of strains in a peat/perlite mix in 5 and 7 gallon containers. I saw the good, the bad and the ugly, but saw enough good to know that this is something I have to figure out.

Ideally I'd love to see ideas specific enough to be input into a spreadsheet so one could enter the details of the mix they wanted to use and the spreadsheet would calculate the amounts of amendments to add for a decent balance.

Maybe that's a pipe dream, but I'd like to see us work toward that end.
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Old 04-12-2018, 05:47 AM #16
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That really is the goal... let's make it happen.

Did you make multiple mixes or just adjusting single ingredients per pot? Do you have any data on what went into them? I will post my mix, I just don't have it here in front of me. Includes micros and all.

Paradox, In a peat based medium what is the testing method of choice? Are any of the K-series tests actually helpful in a low pH peat based medium?
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Old 04-12-2018, 02:32 PM #17
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You worked/work in a lab, yes? That was my reason for directing towards you. Bill is usually rather willing to give up information on anything non-proprietary, which is fairly nice. You still have to decide what to do with that information...lol

Let me clarify. Is the M3, P1 or AA@8.2 worthwhile to test a medium for nutrition that is peat based or peat/compost based?

On a peat/perlite mix, what is the proper test?

On a peat/compost/perlite mix, what is the proper test?
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Old 04-12-2018, 04:48 PM #18
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iirc, biggreg answered the question in his thread, he did the work comparing a compulsive exchange procedure to the summation methods for CEC on an organic soil-less mix.

its a fun read.
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Old 04-12-2018, 09:14 PM #19
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Thanks Avenger! I completely forgot about that thread.

The soil in my beds are .72g / CC, almost exactly half that of field soil. That is why my math has been damn near spot on in those rooms. Makes a lot of sense.

A 5-1-1 peat, compost, perlite weighs .361 grams / CC, at least in my kitchen. Almost exactly 25% of field soil... Field soil is roughly 1.42 grams / CC if my memory is correct.
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Old 04-15-2018, 03:42 AM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by growingcrazy View Post
That really is the goal... let's make it happen.

Did you make multiple mixes or just adjusting single ingredients per pot? Do you have any data on what went into them? I will post my mix, I just don't have it here in front of me. Includes micros and all.
Please post your mix, would love to see that!

the main thing I took away from Slow's thread was to get as much calcium into young plants as possible and then raise K as they reach sexual maturity. Drop K and raise calcium again as they go into flower and then drop calcium and raise K during the latter part of flower.

I added 2 cups of gypsum/borax to each 3-4 cu ft batch of peat/perlite (70/30) base mix I made up.

Experimentation was mostly the top dressing gypsum and borax (6 grams of borax to every pound of gypsum) and a foliar application of potassium sulfate in late flower.

This was all complicated by switching from organics to salt based nutes for the first time in 30 years, and pushing the limits of those feeds under constantly changing weather conditions.

To recap the good: floppy, viny strains had much more stem/stalk strength with the additional calcium and I saw almost no hollow stems in any of the plants I harvested. Root masses were large and impressive and the plants wanted a ton of water. Flowers were, for the most part, larger and more solid and when I got the foliar potassium right, the flower size was noticeable and significant.

To recap the bad: where I applied too much gypsum and nutes, I saw all sorts of issues with nutrient lockouts and leaf burn. this was also complicated by pH issues, so where I had three identical flowering clones, often one was often just beautiful while the other two would show excesses or deficiencies.


I grew over 20 different strains this year there was no "dialing in" of the medium/feed. Some phenos handled the feed, some were burnt and crispy. In general I overfed everything but where conditions aligned, I saw some very nice results.
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