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Best bloom nutrient ratio for bud rot pervention

Andyo

Active member
Veteran
ph in pot 1 hr and 2 hr after feeding ?

ph in pot 1 hr and 2 hr after feeding ?

Thats my ph check rule
it often isnt what your feed is especially with rock wool
tilt pots at 45 degrees 1 hr and 2 hour gather last drips test ph
ive a feeling itll be way too high in rockwool and probably to high in coco
If its too high As positive ions such as cations Ca2+, K+, Mg2+ are removed from the solution, hydrogen ions (H+) are released from the root system to equalize the ratio of anions to cations in the root zone and this lowers the pH of the solution.

When the crop begins an active growth phase, anions such as NO3 are taken up, which increases the pH through the release of hydroxyl ions (OH-) into solution.

I make nutes from my own fomula
for hydroton ebb/flow my ammonium nitrate ratio to calcium nitrate
is 30 g to 1.47 kg grow
and 20 g to 980 g bloom
ph in pot 1 hr and 2 hours drift 5.8 to 6.2

my humidity is 60 to 65% no powdery mildew no botritis
 

samiam

Member
Run off is 6.0 pH. I give a good 15% run off each feeding.

I think I'm going to swap over to using GH maxia bloom it's about the only dry nute I could find that will allow me to make a stock solution.

It's 5-15-14 and could add a little mag and calnit.
 

jidoka

Active member
0.0150% copper. pH 5.8-6.0

So chances are (based on tissue testing) that your plants are not taking up Mg correctly. When that fails you do not convert nitrate in protein (chlorophyll) and mites are inevitable.

you gotta swing the pH higher and lower in coco to pick up Mg high and P and micros on the lower end.
 

samiam

Member
You are correct. But I feed recharge and the plants don't seem to mind that pH range.

It's simple there is just to much k.
 

Andyo

Active member
Veteran
run off ?

run off ?

Run off is 6.0 pH. I give a good 15% run off each feeding.

I think I'm going to swap over to using GH maxia bloom it's about the only dry nute I could find that will allow me to make a stock solution.

It's 5-15-14 and could add a little mag and calnit.

Just quoting run off is pointless .
test by feed then let drain ,then tilt pots collect last drips at 2 hrs ph test those last drips to check ph swing.

That was the point of my previous post !
 

jidoka

Active member
There is about 4x too much K. You can go to your own salt mix. Or you can jack up Mn which regulates uptake of K.
 

P-NUT

Well-known member
Veteran
I know a buddy runs sealed co2 and doesnt vent and rarely has any mold since he started running higher humidity which sounds backward but if humidity it too low the plants will transpire too much and that moisture coming from the plant will collect inside those dense buds and cause mold. I will ask him again when we talk but i seem to remember him running around 60% rh.
 
B

bigganjabud

Well if your so sure that's not the problem how are you getting problems?

Bgb out

All the gear and no idea. Smh
 

samiam

Member
I thank there's too much k competing with mag and ca. So they put over 6% mag in the jacks to make up for the high amount of k and calnit.
 

samiam

Member
Theses buds go 65+ days.
this pic of them taken at day 45 about when I start to see little yellow balls inside the bud.
 

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Bwanabud

Active member
Samiam,
You have a nice set up, I just don't agree with your ventilation methods...and think the humidity level is running to high, or not enough fresh air being injected into the room space.

I grow big buds like those pictured also, and have no problems with mold/rot...remember those buds are big wet warm socks waiting for the right conditions to mold/spore to take hold. I have had a big bud leaning on a wall mold on the contact side, or heavy buds touching each other have problems. Along with others don't see how mold is related to nutrients levels, but best wishes on the solution.
 

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