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AC or water chiller for climate control?

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CrazyKappa

Member
So i cant recall where i was read it, but i read that using a water chiller to chill a cold water rez, then pumping that cold water into heater cores with fans, is the most efficient way to control temperature, and RH. You can even tap into that to cool your nute rez, if you have one.

Basically you have a single pump, that goes to a splitter with the appropriate number of outlets, each grow tent would have its own heater core, so i could run sealed.

What do you guys think? Thank you very much!
 
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bringyalungs

AC... had a watter chiller and radiator.. cool concept but too much...
 
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CrazyKappa

Member
Too much what? To me only thing that really matters is it more energy efficient, it may add complexity in some areas, but it also removes some in others. To be honest, its no more complex then an elaborate hydro system. When you get right down to it, your basically making your own multi head mini split, but you also get to cool nutes as well, and your heads are precisely where they are needed.

I'm a machinist, specifically a mold maker, complexity is not a turn off, inefficiency is.
 
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queequeg152

Active member
Veteran
its not appreciably more efficient at these scales with small hermetic non VRF compressors and non variable speed pumps.

considering that you can get a 16 seer single stage condensing unit form york or trane or who ever you want for 1500 to 3000 dollars + a variable speed air handler for like another 900-1200 bucks, its almost impossible to make an argument in favor of a custom chiller system.

there ARE so called reverse cycle chillers. i have 0 clue why they are named that... they are basically jsut air sinking heat pumps aka air cooled chillers. nothing particularly special about them.

https://www.johnstonesupply.com/storefront/product-view.ep?pID=B73-145#tab-1

i talked about this shit some time back in that 40 page long chiller thread. that thread is BIG on claims, but everyone clams up when you start talking about facts.
take that for what you will.
 
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OG Tree Grower

Really depends on what your trying to accomplish and how.

I don't think anyone here could argue with queequeg, facts are facts and chillers just arnt as efficient as the claims unless your getting a huge system , zoning mutipal rooms, recycling waste heat ect

But.... My watercooled system was free almost , old rads for heat exchangers , irrigation timers on my well water for drain to waste system I convert to in the summer, in spring winter and fall I use a industrial style heat exchanger outside to cool the water. So in the summer my cooling for 5k is 2000 watts total(the well pump doesn't run all the time so that's a hard one to calculate but it's on about 50% of the time) that runs 4 hours per day air exchanged or 12 hours a day sealed. In the winter it's only 750 watts to cool 5k. No ac can beat that
 
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CrazyKappa

Member
OG Tree Grower That's what i was thinking of doing, using small rads in the corner of 3x3 tents, will eventually have 6 in total. I live in Maine, so i have thought about also setting up a larger rad outside, to get free cooling when weather permits. But in the summer i would be using chiller in a closed loop system.

queequeg152 I need to do more research on mini splits, (those are what your talking about correct?) the problem is, i am moving in about 6 months so i have a larger grow room, but i will be renting, obviously i can vent hot air from a AC or chiller outside, or i can have a window unit, but i am not sure how well a full blown stationary unit would go over with landlord.

Are there efficient mini splits that mount in the window, and the heads just connect to that? I don't mind shelling out a couple grand, so long as the system is flexible with moves, and is the most efficient option for my situation. Would there be a way to have a mini split in the summer, then divert the heads to a passive rad in the winter? They way i would get the best of both worlds.

Thanks guys!
 
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OG Tree Grower

I wouldn't do that, you would almost surely contaminate the refrigerant and take out the compressor

There are do it your self, moveable ac units but I don't think any that I have seen have the compressor hidden as a window unit, although the stealth series has some cool options. You pay for it tho. Your better off to learn how to do the install your self and just have someone come charge it every time you move
 
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OG Tree Grower

The free cooling system doesn't cost much to set up so I would just do that as its own system, then if you have an ac Failure you can just hook up to a tap and your grow doesn't miss a beat. I love having a backup system
 
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CrazyKappa

Member
Good point on having a double system, how cold does it need to be outside to effectively cool? Yeah i just need to dive into the mini split research, so long as use an insert to run the plumbing through the window, i might be able to get away with a moveable one, i just cant be drilling no holes through the side of the house.

Do they make indoor mini splits? where you would just have an intake and exhaust ventilation running to a window? Like a portable AC?

Thank you!
 
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OG Tree Grower

60f works but your fans run non stop, 55f outside and everything is happy as can be kicking on and off as needed

If you can't drill two small holes for refrigerant lines I think your next best option is to find a new place. How are ya gonna build a grow if u can't drill two small holes?
 
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CrazyKappa

Member
Well not through a exterior wall, far as everything else, i grow in tents, no major wear and tear on the apt. Screw holes to mount shit on the wall, yes, but two holes through the well, the siding, that is another story. But i can make a shim for the window to send the two lines through, so no real big deal on that part.
 
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OG Tree Grower

Gotcha.

I always have plans for not cutting holes or changing stuff but it never seems to work out for me and I end up having to do work to the place anyways. Now I just plan for it lol
 
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queequeg152

Active member
Veteran
CrazyKappa said:
queequeg152 I need to do more research on mini splits, (those are what your talking about correct?) the problem is, i am moving in about 6 months so i have a larger grow room, but i will be renting, obviously i can vent hot air from a AC or chiller outside, or i can have a window unit, but i am not sure how well a full blown stationary unit would go over with landlord.

Are there efficient mini splits that mount in the window, and the heads just connect to that? I don't mind shelling out a couple grand, so long as the system is flexible with moves, and is the most efficient option for my situation. Would there be a way to have a mini split in the summer, then divert the heads to a passive rad in the winter? They way i would get the best of both worlds.

Thanks guys!
Click to expand...


I dont see why you could not run a minisplit through a window.

just fasten a piece of insulated plywood to say... a 4" gap in your window. foam around it, but place masking tape on the drywall and glass and window sill as foam is not easy to remove.

you would then run the lineset through a hole in this plywood piece you constructed.

im not a big fan of minisplits, but any idiot on the planet can install one. i would not be put off id i were you. just do the cursory research, and consider getting a section 608 certification.

its very easy and will introduce to probably 60% of what you would need to know regarding installing an ac system like that.

regarding un coupling the lineset? there are non brazed conections you can employ, but i am leery to them.

i have never used a flared nut connection... they are fine in therory, but personally im always goign to prefer a brazed connection. i would even prefer a soft solder connectiion over a flared nut connection.

ironically a silver brazed connection is faster to dismantle than a flared connection. it takes all of 30 seconds with an air acetylene torch.
 
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noyd666

should be able to get these croweater:biggrin: similar type brand works well worked that quick in 5x5 I had to put on ti
picture.php
mer. stand alone or through wall, fill with water or perm tap.
 
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dwiz415

New member
It does not. It will add humidity due to condensation. I run a water cooled environment and the only step left to final completion is dealing with condensation and humidity.
 
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dwiz415

New member
It does not. It will add humidity due to condensation. I run a water cooled environment and the only step left to final completion is dealing with condensation and humidity
 
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