It's been brought up. No one has a haze specific mix im aware of. If your mix is organic look into what you feed instead. That is where I see issues with to much N. I feed everything a PH of 6.5.
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The Haze discussion thread
- Thread starter @hempy
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It's been brought up. No one has a haze specific mix im aware of. If your mix is organic look into what you feed instead. That is where I see issues with to much N. I feed everything a PH of 6.5.
GreenAndFast
Well-known member
I'd say it's way too early into flower to determine culling or not. My Sativas typically take a few weeks after the onset of flower before seeing any visible resin development. The other flower possibly leans more to the mints in the cross. I my experience anyway. Not that I have alot. Just what I've noticed with the landraces and pure Sativas I have grown recently. My mango Thai seemed like it would never show resin and then one day just started piling on the coverage.
I'm sure JC knows alot more than me
I'd say it's way too early into flower to determine culling or not. My Sativas typically take a few weeks after the onset of flower before seeing any visible resin development. The other flower possibly leans more to the mints in the cross. I my experience anyway. Not that I have alot. Just what I've noticed with the landraces and pure Sativas I have grown recently. My mango Thai seemed like it would never show resin and then one day just started piling on the coverage.
I'm sure JC knows alot more than me
That THH X P41 is 60 days into flower. HM is JC work, im curious what his opinion is on the subject.
GreenAndFast
Well-known member
Yeah I'd say you got alot longer to go than 60 days mate. That's indica times.
GreenAndFast
Well-known member
This is 40 days into flower
GreenAndFast
Well-known member
Yo did hammer get banned?
I think the more difference in temps equals more stretch. However humidity/respiration plays a role. Lights off humidity rises stomata opens. Plus relative humidity can be deceiving since it measures water content compared to possible content ie warm air can hold more water. Think dew point measurement could help with that. There are very cheap humidity controllers on Amazon now like 40 bucks
TEMPACCOUNT50
New member
Yep, my main account got banned... I'll have a discussion with gypsy when I return 2/7.
JohnnyChicago
Well-known member
No Hammer. I breed or select for Hazeniess.
And the haziest plants are not the frostiest.
If you breed only for frost or early frost, you will breed away from Haze.
The plant in your link is a Cookie pheno.
Below is the kind of frost I look myself in hybrids.
If you look well at the old Haze hybrids .They are all not very frosty.
GreenAndFast
Well-known member
Strange
CannaRed
Cannabinerd
I shouldn't have posted anything hammer, sorry about that. I'm not here to divide us further. I apologize.
TEMPACCOUNT50
New member
No worries mate.. There is only 1 to blame.. No rules were broken. I took screenshots of my posts ill show gypsy when I return..
GreenAndFast
Well-known member
tsc 90s nl5 x haze from nl selections
not frosty,,, but very sticky lol
GreenAndFast
Well-known member
The frostiness type is slowly killing the cannabis industry. Mac1 and purple punch being great examples of looking like they will blown your mind with the amount of 'frost' and as soon as you smoke them, you realise that they are bland boring smoke.
Here’s one of JC’s Animal Mints / Haze … Unfortunately due to the insane vigor
GreenAndFast
Well-known member
Wow man insane 
TEMPACCOUNT50
New member
There is a difference between some frosts and no frost. I've smoked many that had little frost that was way better than those with more. IMO all plants should have some frost. I don't breed for frost, in most of the super high quality flowers they had a good coating. Quality isn't the same for all. Look at Dubi Thai pic, a good amount of frost there.
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