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Beneficial Nematodes vs Mosquito Dunks

Green Squall

Active member
Greetings! Having a pretty bad fungus gnat infestation from a bag of infected soil. I've tried letting the soil dry out and yellow sticky traps to no avail.

Haven't used either of the mentioned products so would like to know which you'd recommend. I'm switching into flower in a couple weeks so I need to get on this. Thank ya.
 

Coughie

Member
Letting the soil dry is a good start.

Hypoaspis miles and beneficial nemetodes would be a good combo, if it's really bad.
 

buzzmobile

Well-known member
Veteran
I use Mosquito Dunks to control fungus gnats. I use a small hammer to smash the dunks in the blister pack. Then I open the back perforated 'hatch' and drop the broken pieces into a small dish. With the hammer handle used as a pestle I crush the chunks into a fine powder. Once the dunks are in a powder form I sprinkle ~1/4 teaspoon over the surface of each 3 gallon pot.

Be patient and kill adult fliers with soap spray. The population will slowly drop. Renew dunk treatment about every 3 weeks.
 

Green Squall

Active member
I put out some new yellow sticky traps last night to gauge the gnat population and it appears to have reduced significantly. I'm still going to go pick something up at the store today though.
 

soundman

Member
Nematodes. They just work. People dont use them much because you have to mail order them as they are alive. You typically just cant go to the store and buy them.

Order them online overnight or two day delivery. They seriously work.
 

Green Squall

Active member
Got some mosquito dunks to avoid driving far out of town. This shits safe if I break it up and spread in the soil, right? Thinking of returning it and getting the bits.
 

Jhhnn

Active member
Veteran
I used Dunks right up until I tried Gnatrol.

It's the tactical nuclear weapon of gnat control, isn't it? They're endemic to my grow because they ride in with compost & worm castings. They're easy to control with gnatrol. I hang one of these in the grow as an indicator-

https://www.amazon.com/Paper-Strips-Catcher-Trap-Victor/dp/B0043GD78O

When I've caught more than a few gnats I mix up 1 tbsp/gal of gnatrol, pour a few cups of solution on the soil in each pot, enough to wet the whole surface pretty well. The instructions say that 3 applications a week apart is best but a single application really hammers the population, beats 'em down to nearly nothing.

They went nuts on me the first time they showed up because I futzed around with dunks & bits. When I stepped up to gnatrol then gnats became just an occasional nuisance. It's pro grade stuff-

https://www.amazon.com/Valent-Gnatr...e=UTF8&qid=1507595712&sr=8-2&keywords=gnatrol
 

Mikell

Dipshit Know-Nothing
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Green,

I used a coffee grinder/hammer combo when I bought Dunks. Standard precautions for fine powder handling. The primary ingredient is cork, but the binder/buff/active would be an eye/inhale irritant. Bits are simpler to apply but the sooner the better, takes awhile to breakdown/kick in.

Jhhnn,

Found the same. I apply at a similar rate every 8-12 wks and haven't had much issue since, short of falling behind in treatment. It isn't available in Canada but eBay solves that.
 

DocTim420

The Doctor is OUT and has moved on...
Got some mosquito dunks to avoid driving far out of town. This shits safe if I break it up and spread in the soil, right? Thinking of returning it and getting the bits.

My post from a different thread--

As we all know, Bacillus thuringiensis serotype israelensis (BTi) is effective natural pesticide to control Fungus Gnats. So how do we measure BTi? Which product is the best "deal" for buying BTi?

Well, that question requires a little back of the envelope math before one can actually compare different BTi products. You see, BTi is measured in International Toxic Units (ITU) at various concentrations ranging between 100 to 7,000 ITU/mg. The "Active Ingredient Percentage" on the label is just part of the story...gotta include the amount of ITU/mg.

An 8% "active ingredient" product formulated with 1200 ITU/mg has 96 ITU (1200 x 0.08) for each milligram of product.

A 3% "active ingredient" product formulated with 7000 ITU/mg has 210 ITU (7000 x 0.03) for each milligram of product.

Hmmm, that means the 3% products has nearly twice the amount of ITU than the 8% product. WTF?

Also, application methods are different. Some products are RTU (ready to use) for both soil and water applications, others like Vectobac require the preparation of fermentation slurry to activate the BTi, and some are only water soluble (not to be mixed directly with the grow medium).

Since not all BTi products are "equal", I have prepared a comparison of the "usual suspects" and correlated everything to cents per million ITU.

picture.php


Gnatrol is the most affordable, but can only be used in a liquid suspension form--you can not add the powder directly to the grow medium.

Bits is the 2nd most affordable and can be added to both water and the directly to the potting soil. When added to the water, BTi is instantly activated...but when mixed with potting soil, BTi is gradually activated (time release of sorts) for about 21 days. Bits are basically corn cob bits sprayed with BTi.

Dunks are slow acting (gradual release as the "donut" dissolves) and can be added to the potting soil directly--but must be crumbled to a powder like consistency (PIA). Dunks are pressed donuts made of gypsum and cork bits sprayed with BTi.

I have no experience with Vectobac products but a special fermentation slurry must be prepared before the BTi is activated (an additional step that most BTi products do not require).

Microbelift BMC is already in liquid form and like Gnatrol, it must be diluted in water before use...and from my analysis, is not a bargain.

I previously used both Gnatrol and Dunks, but for the past few years I exclusively use Bits for my source of BTi ($120 for 5 gallon bucket). I mix Bits directly to my water (30 ml/20 gallon rez), mix Bits directly in the potting soil (5 ml/5 gallon container) and mix Bits with my top dressing fertility (7.5 ml/5 gallon container).

One product for all. Admittedly, I could use Dunks form my water rez, but since that rez is used and refilled daily, I prefer the faster acting Bits over the slow release Dunks.

So there you have it. If there are other BTi products you want included in my analysis, please let me know and I will be more than happy to add them.

Hope this helps.
 

Weird

3rd-Eye Jedi
Veteran
stratiolaelaps scimitus once to the soil, stay established no need to reapply after subsequent plantings (indoor)

works on severe infestations quite well
 

Mia

Active member
Care to elaborate on the why's?

cheers

I am not sure what about the frass does the job, but it does, and relatively quickly(one to two weeks max they're completely gone).
In addition you get chitin(SAR), nutrients, and microbiology.
Dunks and gnatrol will work, but you gain none of those other benefits.
I'm a coco grower, I know fungus gnats well.
1/2 teaspoon is baseline for effectiveness(what I typically use every watering till mid flower), if you're fully organic etc. you may want to bump up dosage(I run synthetic base with many organic inputs) for nute content.
HTH
 

weedtoker

Well-known member
Veteran


I am not sure what about the frass does the job, but it does, and relatively quickly(one to two weeks max they're completely gone).
In addition you get chitin(SAR), nutrients, and microbiology.
Dunks and gnatrol will work, but you gain none of those other benefits.
I'm a coco grower, I know fungus gnats well.
1/2 teaspoon is baseline for effectiveness(what I typically use every watering till mid flower), if you're fully organic etc. you may want to bump up dosage(I run synthetic base with many organic inputs) for nute content.
HTH

Never thought on using them in my system for gnat prevention, only BT and nematodes both as treatment and preventive. A Fat thanks and nice resins for you two eheh
biggrin.gif
. I've got them doing their thing in some boxes and will start trying that one soon as it defo looks good on "paper".

Cheers.
 
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