I have another question for u guys. After my solution has been freezing all the waxes, lipids ect are clearly settling on the bottom of the container. Should I mix this up before filtering or do I want to pour & retain as much of the waxes etc in the container. Further more I am using a Buchner with Vac assist with medium filter papers (125mm). If I'm filtering roughly 250 ml at a time through the filter paper is this fine or should I be changing out the paper vs pouring all 250 ml through one ? Thank you guys in advance for any further input & I hope everyone had a great thanksgiving...
ive read people doing it both ways, shaking it up and mixing it, and also pouring it straight with the solution and waxes separated.
I would also like to know what is the best method.
I have another question for u guys. After my solution has been freezing all the waxes, lipids ect are clearly settling on the bottom of the container. Should I mix this up before filtering or do I want to pour & retain as much of the waxes etc in the container. Further more I am using a Buchner with Vac assist with medium filter papers (125mm). If I'm filtering roughly 250 ml at a time through the filter paper is this fine or should I be changing out the paper vs pouring all 250 ml through one ? Thank you guys in advance for any further input & I hope everyone had a great thanksgiving...
I winterized a few batches, but it's not becoming stable at all, it's all gooey and sticky still, anyone know why? I've winterized some really poopy stuff and it's become stable shatter
So material can be too old to be stable, even if winterized?
I may be wrong, but aren't the two causes of decarboxylation heat or age?
we do a gram to test how much is in our bho..
outdoors has lots more wax then indoors ive found.. so outdoors gets dewaxed 99% of the time.. compared to indoors for me..
Hi guys, unless i'm misunderstanding, it sounds like you're talking about cleaning up finished bho using etho and winterization?
I extract with butane, add everclear (a ratio of 2:1 butane:everclear) - and i've been doing this method forever, and im thinking perhaps im wasting a lot of everclear. Because i don't necessarily know what the final oil yield will be, it's hard to guage using the ratios listed above in this thread. Anyways after the reaction is finished, i put it in the freezer overnight, strain it, evap on ptfe, vac it, and have slabs of lovely winterized shatter.
Im always looking to improve my technique starting with getting ready to pull the trigger on an mk III very soon, but i'd love any insight on the amount of everclear.
The amount of everclear depends on what is present in the raw oleoresin. You must have enough that it still flows like alcohol at 0F, rather than like thin oil.
Part of me trying to figure this out, is that when i do have my cls, i want to be able to know how much etho to add to the shatter platter, but maybe it's just an eyeball thing and i'm trying to be too much of a scientist about it?
I'll give you a recent example. I used about 112 grams of dried flowers, and had 1L of liquid butane after blasting. I added 500ML of everclear (as i've always done), and once i did the rest of the process, that ended up being around 24 grams of shatter. Evaping that much etho for only 24 grams - i wonder if i'm using far more everclear than i need to. 500 ML is a LOT of liquid to evap down to a puddle that was 24gs after vac - so i wondered if i could have achieved the same result with 100ml or 200ml - i'm eager to learn.
I'm not sure how the solubility of oleoresin is affected by amount of etho - can too much be bad? Thanks in advance
Is there any way to recover the everclear when winterizing, rather than just evap?
For edibles and such I just use my still to reclaim, but what about keeping it cool and non-decarbed?
Thanks!
And to recover the alcohol from the vacuum chamber, a cold trap on the out take?