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You Gotta SIP, Not Slurp

Bio boy

Active member
planning a 10inch deep 80 gal container. tryna fig best way to water , wondering if i do this, sit it on a tray or what not
 

thailer

Active member
planning a 10inch deep 80 gal container. tryna fig best way to water , wondering if i do this, sit it on a tray or what not

is this container something you're buying or making?

well depth wise,it would work for a SWICK. however, a bed releases a lot of humidity already and then coupled with a SWICK perlite that wicks water up into the atmosphere except where the container sits on where it wicks up into the container. i think it would really make it too humid in there for the plants.

in a shallow container like that, i think blumats would be better. you could build a wicking bed but it would be better if the soil was 16" deep.
 

moses wellfleet

Well-known member
Moderator
Veteran
Thailer thanx for all this on point info. I am contacting Payaso to have this thread stickied. Like someone already said it is similar to those old time tutorials that made this site in the heyday.
 

thailer

Active member
wow!! i am speechless! i don't really know what to say other than thanks for the nominations!! i've been nerding out for a while on how these SIPs work and how soil structure/containers is really important, but it doesn't get as much talk as other stuff like fertilizer.

well today i finished making the SIPs from the 70 gallon tough totes that have wheels, except when filled up, i can not move them with the wheels. i have a 6x8 room and the dimensions of the totes are almost 2 feet wide, 45 inches long and 22 inches tall. the room is filled with veg plants that i am gonna move into a new location i spent time today making room for my tent. then i will put four of those big totes in there jammed together for the ultimate...................................................................................................8 foot long, 45 inch wide and 22 inch deep holding 240 gallons of soil!!!

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So here it is!! Making sure the hole is as low as can be yet, the hole is still high enough that the bulkhead can still be flush against the flat tote and not hit the curve below or it will leak.
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Make sure that the tube is stuck over the screen and also covered in panty hose. just jam it up against the hose and it will stretch. its mainly to keep the perlite from getting all around it to help increase the flow. it still works if perlite gets down in there for sure. i jsut try for the sake of trying. :D
 

thailer

Active member
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these were given to me but you can buy drain cover if ya want. i cut the feet off each leg, then tie a knot in the end and cut it again so i can make about 3-4 using each leg. i've also used ankle socks that have lost their mate to cover the drain pipe holes but it is important because the perlite will settle down in the drain pipe and the plant will start to sink over time. something you gotta fix before the next round so build it right the first time.

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Bmac1

Well-known member
Veteran
Awesome stuff thailer. I just got mine finished and loaded up and can't wait to get plants plugged into them. Still have some clean up to do and try to locate some worms.
 

Bio boy

Active member
I saw a test on grasscity. On bed root debth and they csme up with 10inch being optimal. Less and problems.more and problems i cant remeber why but was told dont go over 8-10inch in a bed
 

thailer

Active member
Fronk, i like how you put the bulkhead on the long side! i was thinking that would work great depending on how you arrange the room because the black hose has kinked on me once due to an angle i positioned the tote. would've worked much better if it was on the side in my room.
 
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thailer

Active member
I saw a test on grasscity. On bed root debth and they csme up with 10inch being optimal. Less and problems.more and problems i cant remeber why but was told dont go over 8-10inch in a bed

i have throughout the years heard of these tests done saying the bed should be a certain depth but i haven't seen any tests/threads pop up in my feed i could read for myself. i'll see if i can search that one out or see what i come up with because i often hear how the bed should be such and such inches deep.

all i can think of is that if you're handwatering a deep soil bed, that it could be easier to over water deeper beds because the soil dries from the top down leaving the bottom wet and difficult to measure with our finger, but a fingers depth in a 8-10" is almost to the bottom so it easier to decide if it needs water or not. i don't think theres a reason they would come up with that contradicts what this is saying about soil depth but that's what my assumption is. i will try to look into it soon.
 

Fronk

Well-known member
Fronk, i like how you put the bulkhead on the long side! i was thinking that would work great depending on how you arrange the room because the black hose has kinked on me once due to an angle i positioned the tote. would've worked much better if it was on the side in my room.

Thanks Thailer, yeah I had too as it wasn’t going to fit.
Tubs are 760cm long and 500cmwide and I am putting 4 in a 5x5.
Just enough room for me to get in the middle and do what I have to do.
Thanks again for the thread, should make my life much easier. :bow:
 

thailer

Active member
before you fill those with soil, i'd check and see if they fill up with water. it looks like they will. i'm assuming the control bucket and reservoir hook up in the middle of the H instead of them on a line. when they're hooked up on a line or on a full loop, the sip closest to the control bucket fills up first and when it is full, that is when the second sip fills up, then after it's full the third sip will fill up. they do not fill up at the same time. that is why they said to only have six maximum sips on a single line or control bucket so if you need to have more than six sips, you'd need to get a second control bucket fed from the reservoir for the next six sips or the sips at the end won't get water during high demand times. it seems like it should work though i just don't know what to expect. it may even work better than a single line.
 

Fronk

Well-known member
Got mine planted and in the tent just now. Its a nice fit. Got the hypoaspis miles in too.



Just have to decide on a living or non living mulch. Also need to fill the reservoirs. I just lightly watered the plants in with some kelp.


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Nice mate. You running the karma testers in them?
 

Fronk

Well-known member
before you fill those with soil, i'd check and see if they fill up with water. it looks like they will. i'm assuming the control bucket and reservoir hook up in the middle of the H instead of them on a line. when they're hooked up on a line or on a full loop, the sip closest to the control bucket fills up first and when it is full, that is when the second sip fills up, then after it's full the third sip will fill up. they do not fill up at the same time. that is why they said to only have six maximum sips on a single line or control bucket so if you need to have more than six sips, you'd need to get a second control bucket fed from the reservoir for the next six sips or the sips at the end won't get water during high demand times. it seems like it should work though i just don't know what to expect. it may even work better than a single line.

Thanks brother.
I’ll run 1 to start with as I do perpetual style so still about 8 weeks until all 4 are in the tent.
I was hoping just to manual fill (with tap) to start. Once I get used to the system, I’ll go automatic style with a float valve.
Thanks for the help.
 

Bmac1

Well-known member
Veteran
Nice mate. You running the karma testers in them?


This tent is getting 4 wedding cake bushes. I am heading out for more totes today as I am replicating this setup in the other 4x4. That one will have the 2 Chem Tini tester phenos along with 3 Dosidos and an Ice Cream Cake.



Only getting the 2 females in the Chem Tini set those back a bit but I have good clones of each that are more in line with the size of the other plants.


SIP'S will be blowing up in no time.
 
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