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Old 03-13-2018, 06:11 PM #11
purplepassion
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In Maine this last season we had rain and high humidity for the last 4 weeks of growing. Wrapping worked phenomenal, I got 1-2 weeks more than anyone else around here. At night condensation occurs from the humid air. If you cover befor then your plants will stay dry. In the morning the humidity comes from the ground so you unwrapped. If it’s raining or drizzle keep em wrapped up. Any direct moisture you can keep off the plant is a win. Also leaf blowers work really well to dust of the wetness. Sprayin will do nothing but contamination.
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Old 03-13-2018, 07:13 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kygiacomo!!! View Post
do not spray neem oil in late flowering. it will totally fuck up ur buds.
so maybe would be better some kind of natural soap?
the old thread said it's necessary to add oil or soap only because it lets the water+potassium bicarbonate stay on the plant longer and in creates like an alkaline "film" that prevents the fungus to survive
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Old 03-14-2018, 12:08 AM #13
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OP, consider this:

Somebody mentioned in another thread a way of forcing plants to finish flowering. The method is to cut a ring around the stalk at the point just low enough that everything you want to harvest is above where you will scrape a ring off the stalk.

Apparently everything above that point finishes in two or three weeks because that is what the plant diverts all of its energy to. BUT, what is relevant for you is this: the plant can no longer suck up water or nutrients from it's roots. What does that mean? The only water it gets is from the air around it/dew/rain.

This won't be a guaranteed protection against mold, but it will reduce the amount of water your plants are taking in (and thereby, I think, decrease the likelihood and/or severity of mold).
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Old 03-14-2018, 12:32 AM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DuskrayTroubador View Post
OP, consider this:

Somebody mentioned in another thread a way of forcing plants to finish flowering. The method is to cut a ring around the stalk at the point just low enough that everything you want to harvest is above where you will scrape a ring off the stalk.

Apparently everything above that point finishes in two or three weeks because that is what the plant diverts all of its energy to. BUT, what is relevant for you is this: the plant can no longer suck up water or nutrients from it's roots. What does that mean? The only water it gets is from the air around it/dew/rain.

This won't be a guaranteed protection against mold, but it will reduce the amount of water your plants are taking in (and thereby, I think, decrease the likelihood and/or severity of mold).
I doubt this would help in this case and will effectively starve the plant of nutrients.

Ring barking will kill a plant as the sugars produced in the leaves are prevented from being transported to the roots. Without sugars, the selective uptake of soil nutrients will cease as this process is energy-dependent. Until the plant dies completely however, water will continue to flow up the xylem into the top of the plant as it is a passive process that requires no energy.

.

Last edited by Natural high; 03-14-2018 at 01:45 AM..
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Old 03-14-2018, 03:44 AM #15
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This cutting a ring when used in forestry and orchard settings is called girdleing. Cutting all the way around through cabium layer

I have zero knowledge of how it works on canibis but as mentioned above it cuts sugar off from getting to roots. In fruit and nut trees this causes a massive increase in fruit as the tree wants one last Chace to reproduce. So if your a seed breeder this could maybe create far more seeds than normal?

This girdle will kill the tree that year, we do this to keep a dead tree up for critters to utilize while at same time that leafless tree now gets sunlight down to forest floor to grow new life aka- browse for critters to eat. This may be useful Idea for those of you growing in your own woods and needing sun light.
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