made a mistake cant seem to up load photos! fuck! how do you do that? Hold on, I can't get out of the fucking closet until i learn how to up load photos. Sorry please excuse my language!
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creeper's out of the closet
- Thread starter Creeperpark
- Start date
help with photos
help with photos
Would someone please explain to me how do you up load photos? Im visual impaired and I can't seen to get it. I get them to the 5 photo load and up load to there, but I can't get them to the post from there. I'm giving it one Last try.
help with photos
Would someone please explain to me how do you up load photos? Im visual impaired and I can't seen to get it. I get them to the 5 photo load and up load to there, but I can't get them to the post from there. I'm giving it one Last try.
I have tried for about 6 hrs to work this software and down load photos. I'm giving up, if you want to see my Diary catch me on THCtalk. Sorry, I fucking out of here! Love you all!!!
R
Rab.C
go write a message click advance highlight the paper clip and select pics Easy
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ok
ok
ok
Rabc, thank you, Im still not sure what I did, but at least I got this far. I'm stupid when it comes to computers.
I’m much older now and find myself becoming more dis-abled. I lost my left eye, and have an inoperable cataract in my right eye now. My vision is going fast, now that I’m moving through the 60s! I use magnification devices to see, but still have problems. An improvised explosive device (IED) went off under my feet and I’ve never been the same since! This will be my last indoor grow and I’m going to try a last Gorilla grow too! The light radiation is speeding the onset of my blindness, even with sunglasses and cap on, so, I have to throw in the towel. One last grow and here we go.
Indica grow
10 Reg, Seeds, Jordan of the Island, 3. God Bud, 3. Deep Purple, 3. Mandala’s Hashberry and 1.Bro in-law Cherry pie.
Starting soil: Roots organic. Planting seeds directly into soil to germinate. Please note, I never pack my soil! I water the soil in slowly. Using water to pack your soil allows the roots to have easy penetration in the substrate.
I will grow organic using only rainwater until I can sex the plants, then switch to soil-less substrate using a bottom water, bottle feed method. Hoping to finish in 100 days! Seed to buds.
• Finishing soil: Pro-Mix BX Biofungicide + Mycorrhizae is a general-purpose peat-based growing medium with perlite and vermiculite. Please Note, Pro-Mix HP with Mycorrhizae would of have been better but they only had BX.(OUCH!)
• Nutrients: General Hydroponics, Flora Series, and Ca –mag only.
• Lights: seedlings one 4 ft shop light with 4 bulbs. T8s
• Veg: 400 HPS and a Chinese LED HYGrow1000 = 400 watts from the wall.
• Flowering two Chinese LED and one 400 HPS= total-1200 watts
• Grow closet 6x6ft with 8ft celling.
• Fans, 2, 8in oscillating , and one High-Velocity Floor Fan — 20in.
Water, Plain rain only , starting pH 5.5
10 Reg, Seeds, Jordan of the Island, 3. God Bud, 3. Deep Purple, 3. Mandala’s Hashberry and 1.Bro in-law Cherry pie.
Starting soil: Roots organic. Planting seeds directly into soil to germinate. Please note, I never pack my soil! I water the soil in slowly. Using water to pack your soil allows the roots to have easy penetration in the substrate.
I will grow organic using only rainwater until I can sex the plants, then switch to soil-less substrate using a bottom water, bottle feed method. Hoping to finish in 100 days! Seed to buds.
• Finishing soil: Pro-Mix BX Biofungicide + Mycorrhizae is a general-purpose peat-based growing medium with perlite and vermiculite. Please Note, Pro-Mix HP with Mycorrhizae would of have been better but they only had BX.(OUCH!)
• Nutrients: General Hydroponics, Flora Series, and Ca –mag only.
• Lights: seedlings one 4 ft shop light with 4 bulbs. T8s
• Veg: 400 HPS and a Chinese LED HYGrow1000 = 400 watts from the wall.
• Flowering two Chinese LED and one 400 HPS= total-1200 watts
• Grow closet 6x6ft with 8ft celling.
• Fans, 2, 8in oscillating , and one High-Velocity Floor Fan — 20in.
Water, Plain rain only , starting pH 5.5
their up
their up
Their up, and I'm getting a handle on the photos, Sorry about the mix up in the beginning of the thread.
their up
Their up, and I'm getting a handle on the photos, Sorry about the mix up in the beginning of the thread.
R
Rab.C
all the best with your grow.i have just subbed
different and simple
different and simple
Sorry if I've stepped on anyone's feet. I do a lot of things opposite than most growers. I start seeds in very high EC while in seedling stage and veg and flower in low EC. The meter I use is, 1 ms/cm(EC1.0 or cf10)=500 ppm TDS instead of EC. I will be testing the substrate with two different testing methods:1:2 dilution method, and the Leachate PourThru method. I use no acid or additives in this grow, just 3 part nutrient series, and cal-mag-nitrate in veg, and cal-mag-carbonate in flowering. Nothing else. This is a very simple grow! Its so easy that boredom is the #1 a side effect.
different and simple
Sorry if I've stepped on anyone's feet. I do a lot of things opposite than most growers. I start seeds in very high EC while in seedling stage and veg and flower in low EC. The meter I use is, 1 ms/cm(EC1.0 or cf10)=500 ppm TDS instead of EC. I will be testing the substrate with two different testing methods:1:2 dilution method, and the Leachate PourThru method. I use no acid or additives in this grow, just 3 part nutrient series, and cal-mag-nitrate in veg, and cal-mag-carbonate in flowering. Nothing else. This is a very simple grow! Its so easy that boredom is the #1 a side effect.
soil test
soil test
I know most of you guys already know this, so it’s not for you, It’s for the newcomers like me.
I test my substrate two easy ways, 2:1 dilution method, and the Leachate Pour-through Method.
1st 2:1, Take one part substrate to two parts distilled water and mix. Let it set for 30 minutes then strain through a coffee filter. That s it. Ready for testing.
2nd Leachate Pour-through is more effective. Distilled water needs to be added to the pot to yield 50 ml (1.7oz) of leachate. The way I do it is, add pure distilled water in pot to full capacity and let it set for 30 min. Then I use my turkey baster to add 50 ml of water until I can harvest 5o ml of leachate run-off. It’s ready for testing. Note, different size containers will yield different quantity feed.
After I finish both the tests, I will post the results on the next post!
soil test
I know most of you guys already know this, so it’s not for you, It’s for the newcomers like me.
I test my substrate two easy ways, 2:1 dilution method, and the Leachate Pour-through Method.
1st 2:1, Take one part substrate to two parts distilled water and mix. Let it set for 30 minutes then strain through a coffee filter. That s it. Ready for testing.
2nd Leachate Pour-through is more effective. Distilled water needs to be added to the pot to yield 50 ml (1.7oz) of leachate. The way I do it is, add pure distilled water in pot to full capacity and let it set for 30 min. Then I use my turkey baster to add 50 ml of water until I can harvest 5o ml of leachate run-off. It’s ready for testing. Note, different size containers will yield different quantity feed.
After I finish both the tests, I will post the results on the next post!
test results
test results
Starting Soil
Important: I always calibrate my TDS meter with 342 ppm calibration solution, and pH meter in 7.1 & 4 solution when I test anything.
Results soil test: 2:1, dilution method, ½ liter substrate yielded = 1242 ppm with a pH of 5.5
Results: Leachate Pour-through, ½ liter substrate yield = 3578 ppm with a pH of 5.5
Here’s how I correlate the different ppm to equal the same range within 150ppm in the two tests. Since I use the 3 times the volume of distilled water in the dilution method, I multiply by 3 times. 1242x3=3726 ppm. Now if you subtract the difference between the two tests then, you only have 148 ppm difference!
Conclusion of this test, Now that I know what the feed and pH looks like, I will have to modify my water source. I will do that in the next post.
test results
Starting Soil
Important: I always calibrate my TDS meter with 342 ppm calibration solution, and pH meter in 7.1 & 4 solution when I test anything.
Results soil test: 2:1, dilution method, ½ liter substrate yielded = 1242 ppm with a pH of 5.5
Results: Leachate Pour-through, ½ liter substrate yield = 3578 ppm with a pH of 5.5
Here’s how I correlate the different ppm to equal the same range within 150ppm in the two tests. Since I use the 3 times the volume of distilled water in the dilution method, I multiply by 3 times. 1242x3=3726 ppm. Now if you subtract the difference between the two tests then, you only have 148 ppm difference!
Conclusion of this test, Now that I know what the feed and pH looks like, I will have to modify my water source. I will do that in the next post.
simple water modification
simple water modification
Since I’m using clean rain, I don’t have to add acid. Rain has carbonic acid that comes from Carbon Dioxide in the air. It’s the same stuff in soda drinks to drop the pH. There are other trace acids, but not as much as carbonic acid, because of exposure to Carbon Dioxide in our air.
Note. I haven’t ever been able to get an accurate pH readings in water with less than 100 ppm with pocket pens, due to lack of conductivity. Using 200ppm allows accurate pH readings for me.
My starting water, pH is 5.5 pH, with 34 ppm. The pH is a little low for my mix, so I will raise the pH of the water by adding, 1ml of Cal-mag+ with 1.0% nitrate nitrogen to 4 liters of water,(1gal). I let it set a while to get stable. It won’t change the pH of the substrate but it will act as a buffer for those tiny plants.
New water mix with calmag: (168 ppm pH 6.2 pH) added to plant containers, Leachate Pour-through method
Collection method, take 3 solo cups with plants, water to full capacity and stop before water runs out. Let it sit for about 30 mins then add 25 ml of water and catch 25 ml from the bottom. Catch just enough of the 3 cups to get a reading.
yield=1783 ppm with pH 6.0 in the pots with living plants.
Water needs to remain consistent, and allow no runoff, to make the feed last. I don’t saturate the pots because, it will release too much food and cut the oxygen off to the roots. The outdoor plants are going to be living in solo cups for 30 days, but the hybrids will be up-potted into 4 liter pots.
Now putting all the details aside, I just throw 5ml of calmag into 20 liter(5gal) of rain and water 1 or 2 times a wk. That’s It! Its sooo simple! When I get my 1st true leaves I will change the setup. That will be on the next post.
simple water modification
Since I’m using clean rain, I don’t have to add acid. Rain has carbonic acid that comes from Carbon Dioxide in the air. It’s the same stuff in soda drinks to drop the pH. There are other trace acids, but not as much as carbonic acid, because of exposure to Carbon Dioxide in our air.
Note. I haven’t ever been able to get an accurate pH readings in water with less than 100 ppm with pocket pens, due to lack of conductivity. Using 200ppm allows accurate pH readings for me.
My starting water, pH is 5.5 pH, with 34 ppm. The pH is a little low for my mix, so I will raise the pH of the water by adding, 1ml of Cal-mag+ with 1.0% nitrate nitrogen to 4 liters of water,(1gal). I let it set a while to get stable. It won’t change the pH of the substrate but it will act as a buffer for those tiny plants.
New water mix with calmag: (168 ppm pH 6.2 pH) added to plant containers, Leachate Pour-through method
Collection method, take 3 solo cups with plants, water to full capacity and stop before water runs out. Let it sit for about 30 mins then add 25 ml of water and catch 25 ml from the bottom. Catch just enough of the 3 cups to get a reading.
yield=1783 ppm with pH 6.0 in the pots with living plants.
Water needs to remain consistent, and allow no runoff, to make the feed last. I don’t saturate the pots because, it will release too much food and cut the oxygen off to the roots. The outdoor plants are going to be living in solo cups for 30 days, but the hybrids will be up-potted into 4 liter pots.
Now putting all the details aside, I just throw 5ml of calmag into 20 liter(5gal) of rain and water 1 or 2 times a wk. That’s It! Its sooo simple! When I get my 1st true leaves I will change the setup. That will be on the next post.
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You are very welcome zomboy,
feed pH
feed pH
I ain’t no expert, just a beginner, but, I want to share something I learned. All bottle nutrients are going to have an effect on the pH of the substrate. Why? When plants take up fertilizer, they emit hydrogen and hydroxyl/bicarbonate ions into the growing medium! Most especially nitrogen!! There’s 3 different kinds of nitrogen: (nitrate), (ammonium), and (urea). Each one of them do something different to the pH. When Nitrate nitrogen is taken up by the plants, it release OH or bicarbonate in the substrate and will raise pH. When plants take ammonium nitrogen in, the plant releases H and drops the pH. Urea doesn’t do anything to the pH at first, but, the bacteria in the substrate will transform the Urea to either of the two, and then raise or lower the pH in time, that’s called nitrification. The larger the plant, the more fertilizer is used and therefore the faster the PLANT can change the pH of the growing medium.
Calcium can be locked out because pH drop from excess ammonium nitrogen. I see what looks like growers adding calmag+ especially calmag with Nitrate nitrogen to fix it, which doesn’t work very well. Almost kill the grow, start over, and do the same thing again not knowing it was the ammonium that was causing the calcium problem.
If I started with a complete substrate in beginning, and see calmag deficiencies in a grow, then, most of the time, the plants were fed too early and it’s just the drop of the pH due to high ammonium nitrogen. I moved to using low dose feeds during veg and flowering..babies 2week from sprout
feed pH
I ain’t no expert, just a beginner, but, I want to share something I learned. All bottle nutrients are going to have an effect on the pH of the substrate. Why? When plants take up fertilizer, they emit hydrogen and hydroxyl/bicarbonate ions into the growing medium! Most especially nitrogen!! There’s 3 different kinds of nitrogen: (nitrate), (ammonium), and (urea). Each one of them do something different to the pH. When Nitrate nitrogen is taken up by the plants, it release OH or bicarbonate in the substrate and will raise pH. When plants take ammonium nitrogen in, the plant releases H and drops the pH. Urea doesn’t do anything to the pH at first, but, the bacteria in the substrate will transform the Urea to either of the two, and then raise or lower the pH in time, that’s called nitrification. The larger the plant, the more fertilizer is used and therefore the faster the PLANT can change the pH of the growing medium.
Calcium can be locked out because pH drop from excess ammonium nitrogen. I see what looks like growers adding calmag+ especially calmag with Nitrate nitrogen to fix it, which doesn’t work very well. Almost kill the grow, start over, and do the same thing again not knowing it was the ammonium that was causing the calcium problem.
If I started with a complete substrate in beginning, and see calmag deficiencies in a grow, then, most of the time, the plants were fed too early and it’s just the drop of the pH due to high ammonium nitrogen. I moved to using low dose feeds during veg and flowering..babies 2week from sprout
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Tutorial CanG | Regeln für Grower und Konsumenten in Deutschland
- Latest: Hermanthegerman
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