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Handmade Knives

armedoldhippy

Well-known member
Veteran
Earlmarne;8579556 I can not get an edge on these stainless steels with my chosera stones that I can with the a1 said:
i too have hell getting a good edge on stainless blades, even using ceramic sticks at a fixed angle. carbon steels will lay you open on same set-up. ???
 

Earlmarne

Member
i too have hell getting a good edge on stainless blades, even using ceramic sticks at a fixed angle. carbon steels will lay you open on same set-up. ???
Ive read a bunch on it and possess only a rudimentary understanding.
Our high carbon steels have bigger particles, accounting for that toothier edge. Whereas the stainless has a tighter smaller particles.
When polishing up to 10k grit I feel like I can feel this... may just be imaginative.
I can get my s30 v to push cut thin paper but cutting meat it will lose its ease very quick. All my high carbons, although harder to get to push cut thin paper without catching keep their bite for longer.
When going from 400, 1000 , 3k , 5k , 10k
I have a bad habit of checking to see if the edge will grab the skin of my thumb. I could stop at 3k with my m4 bm contega if that was the only metric.
It would be bad ass to hear knifemakers thoughts on the subject.
 

Green Squall

Well-known member
What kind of steel do you work with outside of Damascus?
I own a good bit of knives. Benchmade, spyderco, bark river. No customs as of yet. Been eyeing some of doziers d2 production pieces lately.
I can not get an edge on these stainless steels with my chosera stones that I can with the a1 , d2 , m4 carbon blades. I am always in the market for a nice knife.

Benchmade is a great company with excellent customer service.
I recently used their Life Sharp service and they did a great job.
I've had my knife for over 10 years and wanted a factory sharp edge.
https://www.benchmade.com/lifesharp-service
 
i too have hell getting a good edge on stainless blades, even using ceramic sticks at a fixed angle. carbon steels will lay you open on same set-up. ???

Most stainless steels contain alloying elements which make a very wear resistant material. This is why those are my favorite steels to use for my knives. These blades will take an extremely sharp edge and due to the wear resistance will hold that edge longer. I find carbon steel is easier to sharpen but dulls much faster.

I do all my sharpening on the belt grinder. I set the micro bevel with 220 grit then once Ive raised a good burr with 400 grit I strop with green compound on a wood backed leather strop and its done. I like a bit more tooth to my edges. For culinary knives I have a buddy who is a professional knife sharpener and he gets them scary sharp on his tormek
 

Earlmarne

Member
Most stainless steels contain alloying elements which make a very wear resistant material. This is why those are my favorite steels to use for my knives. These blades will take an extremely sharp edge and due to the wear resistance will hold that edge longer. I find carbon steel is easier to sharpen but dulls much faster.

I do all my sharpening on the belt grinder. I set the micro bevel with 220 grit then once Ive raised a good burr with 400 grit I strop with green compound on a wood backed leather strop and its done. I like a bit more tooth to my edges. For culinary knives I have a buddy who is a professional knife sharpener and he gets them scary sharp on his tormek
The s30v on my pm2 I can see the wear resistance for sure. Ive gut n quartered deer without touching it up. Just never can keep that hair popping edge on it for crap.
 
That chef/ paring combo in nitro-v steel with black paper micarta bolsters and dyed/stabilized burl wood handles sold for $700.00 (cdn $)
 

Phaeton

Speed of Dark
Veteran
When I quit growing I had more time to play with sharp objects.
When younger I managed to get a black belt in Iaido, but mostly I just like to play with knives and swords.
17 swords, 35 folders, and uncounted fixed blades, most are less than top quality, but a few are most excellent.

The swords are non stainless, all but one are straight carbon steel for crack resistance. The one is a powder steel which took three years to finish properly and get hardware fitted. Arthritis slowed me down some.
The folders and fixed blades are almost all stainless alloys as impact cracks are not a problem.
 

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  • Buck Chip Flint custom.jpg
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All beautiful,what's the #4 photo.
Idk alot about knifes,but that looks exceptional.

Thanks for the kind words.
Not sure if you mean my knives o the first page of this thread or the fellow's blades in the post just above yours, but the fourth knife in my post is my large hunter. The steel is damascus over Japanese blue paper san mai and the handle material is stabilized and multidyed maple burl.
Thanks for looking
Have a knife day
 

NEW ENGLAND

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
When I quit growing I had more time to play with sharp objects.
When younger I managed to get a black belt in Iaido, but mostly I just like to play with knives and swords.
17 swords, 35 folders, and uncounted fixed blades, most are less than top quality, but a few are most excellent.

The swords are non stainless, all but one are straight carbon steel for crack resistance. The one is a powder steel which took three years to finish properly and get hardware fitted. Arthritis slowed me down some.
The folders and fixed blades are almost all stainless alloys as impact cracks are not a problem.

The one with the bison inlayed,thats beautiful,I may be a novice but recognize quality.I love that knife
 
Sorry for being quiet lately. Summer is my busiest time. With hunting season right around the corner and gearing up for a metal art show next month. Not much time for internet.
 
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