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Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
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There are some who know that I do not agree with everything Elaine Ingham says but overwhelmingly I agree with her concept on growing and nutrient cycling and I admire her work and courage profoundly. Following is something she posted on another forum which I believe is very accurate outside of her math on the amounts of compost per acre. I do not think she will mind me posting it here. I do hope it may help to turn on some lights.

"Re: [compost_tea] Re: Understanding chemcial/biological control of soluble nutrients

In the chemical world, the emphasis has been on what controls taking nutrients from the available form, in solution, to the absorbed form, tied-up on the surfaces of sand, silt, clay, and organic matter.

Plants can only take up the soluble form. Once a nutrient is in a tied-up form, the plant can't get that nutrient.
In the strictly chemical world, the only control on how much nutrient is tied up, or how much is in solution, is knowing something about pH.
But in the real world, you have roots and the food web. What is the action of the soil food web on nutrient cycling?
Another strictly chemical approach that has been brought up, but hasn't worked particularly well in the real world, is to add a soluble form of a salt, something that has a higher affinity for the binding sites on the clays, in order to "knock off" the element in question.
Really stupid way to try to deal with anything, because there is no way to "knock off" just one nutrient. And of course the now soluble salts leach out of your soil. So, not only did you whammy any life in that soil, microbial, plant or otherwise, but you causing a whole herd of some important chemicals to leave the soil, forever gone downstream.
Not too bright.
But in a strictly chemical world, what other ways could you affect nutrient availability or too-much nutrient? OK, pour the nutrients on in high concentration..... we all know that is destroying our ability to have clean water to drink.
Luckily, only in highly controlled lab conditions can anything remain strictly chemical. Life will find a way. Can we speed up biology getting back into really bad conditions? Yep,that's what compost, extract and tea are all about.
Once you add biology back into the mix, that whole pH story gets thrown out the window.
Once you begin to understand that organisms will pull any nutrient off ANY surface, and convert it from one form to another, releasing plant available nutrients, right where the plant needs them, then the whole loading-chemistry-on approach to doing things will be thrown out. Messing with pH is NOT the way to do anything!
Once you realize which organism is really in control of nutrient availability in soil, and which sets of organisms it is controlling, you start to understand that the destruction of soil life that occurs when the strictly chemical approach is used has resulted in the mess our "modern" agriculture is in.
I gave a talk at ACRES USA several years ago on this topic, just when I was beginning to figure out this whole chemistry relationship with biology. I've never spoken at ACRES again, because I upset some people with that talk. It has taken me some time to really work through the whole chemical damage situation. I'm not saying I have it all figured out yet, but I'm getting more of the pieces put together.
In a decent soil, where nutrient cycling hasn't been utterly destroyed, where nutrient holding ability has not been lost, and where compaction issues have not resulted in soil pH down at 3 or 4, you have all the nutrients you need, for MANY years. There is NO NEED to add inorganic fertilizers to most of the cropland in the US. Or Australia. Or South Africa, or any desert, or ....wherever.
There are a few places where the soil has been so utterly destroyed that nutrients really are gone. So looking back at what has happened to your soil in the past is necessary. If you start a program with your closest SFI lab, we go through checking that out with you.
Now, the chemical salesmen always like to say, "But you are removing nutrients everytime you harvest, and therefore, you have to replenish the nutrients you take off".
Now wait, the amount of biomass that is locked up in a forest each year, a healthy forest, is more than the harvested materials removed from most corn fields, or crop field. But the forest isn't running out of nutrients.....the forest keeps growing next year.
Look at the low, low, low nutrient concentrations in most forest soils.
Have some fun with your chemical salesman.....tell them you have a new field and want his recommendation, and send a healthy soil sample in, and watch him go ballistic! You can't possibly grow anything in this soil, you will have to put on tons and tons and tons of nutrient to make this a productive soil.
But the forest is growing more plant material on an annual basis, than is removed from a productive crop field. Explain that. Where are the nutrients coming from in that forest? No one is putting fertilizers on that forest......
Every year, the bedrock breaks down and releases more sand, silt, and clay. The mineral nutrients in your soil are replaced every year because the sand, silt and clay are replenished. Does anyone out there lack bedrock under their soil?
The year you run out of sand, silt and/or clay in your soil is the year you will need to use more compost to replace the nutrients removed in harvest.

1 ton of compost per ac (2.5 tons per hectare then) - properly made, the real stuff, not the putrid,black stuff - co ntains all the nutrients in greater amounts than normal production needs. Make sure you have some N-fixing bacteria in that compost, so maybe an understory of clover or vetch or trefoil or cyanobacteria might be needed to provide N, but between the soil and biology, nutrient cycling supplies everything the plant needs.
The controller of the system, if the right biology is in place, is the plant.
Stop working so hard.
Put your labor force back in place. Balanced for the plant you want.
I try to explain all this, and the way agriculture fell into the chemical place it has been for the last 50 years, in the 3 day intro courses I teach. It has taken awhile to put all this together, and I am sure I don't have all the rough edges polished off yet. People ask me questions and sometimes I have to think about them for awhile. But with thought, and understating how the system works, a few little tests of biology and chemistry working together, and the way it works in a healthy system gets clearer and clearer.
Inorganic fertilizers give really good results IF THE BIOLOGY IS WORKING WELL. There is no need for any inorganic fertilizer if the biology is healthy, and functioning correctly. But, one tillage event too much, one chemical insult too much, and the down ward spiral is on. Lack of nutrition in food, pollution of water, elevated carbon in the atmosphere are a result.
Elaine R. Ingham
President, Soil Foodweb Inc."
 
C

CT Guy

Good post. One thing Microbeman and I do agree on is that Elaine deserves profound respect for her contributions to our industry. She really brought compost tea and biological horticulture to the greater public.
 

judas cohen

Active member
I really appreciate the info you two provide. You have profoundly influenced the way I grow. Thanks to Clack Coot also. Life Is Simple! :)
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
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Hi Folks,

I promised earlier on another thread to post my growing technique. I thought I'd post it on this thread. Note that measures are all approximate and variable.

Background:

We grew in many fashions over the years, usually following the NPK dogma with high N during vegetation and the P onslaught during flower. This was both outdoors and in and was applied to various species/crops including hemp, hay mixes, vegetables and herbs. In the 80s we switched over to mostly organic for vegetables and most other outdoor crops but still believed in the whole NPK routine but used so called organic fertilizers instead. In the late 80s I moved permanently to my farm where I live now in the woods and I quieted my mind for a while and opened my eyes. I observed that there were large areas of healthy plants (nettles, clover, grasses, mullein, yarrow, etc. and trees) which grew back year after year as happy as can be, despite being grazed (in some cases) by wildlife and livestock. I began to ponder why this was occurring so easily while humans toiled with rototillers and fertilizers year after year to try to grow their gardens which were often plagued by disease right beside a pathogen free stand of wild plants.
Around the late 90s I began having very bad gut problems. I became intolerant (allergic) to most foods. I had severe cramps and could not think properly. I was forced to live pretty much on plain brown rice, dropping to around 120 pounds (I’m 5’11 to 6’). I started studying how the gut works and came to the conclusion that through a course of antibiotics, I had destroyed all my healthy gut microbes which were responsible for digesting my food and preventing bad chemicals from crossing the blood-brain barrier. I began taking probiotics and trying to eat yogurt. It dawned on me that this must be the way those plants were staying so healthy and how they were receiving nutrients. I began experimenting by fermenting yogurt with liquid fish and sugar and…. I applied these concoctions to various plants in an endeavor to accentuate their vitality. My results were mixed. When I got the Internet happening I discovered that there was already a fairly well established consortia called EM being used horticulturally. I ordered some immediately and fermented up a batch. I used it on our soil and was amazed by the results. I made a few of my own EM fermentation recipes which were even better. I also fermented EM (60 days) to ingest and over around three months cured my food intolerances. I noted that EM fermentations worked wonders with compacted soil which refused to hold water. After applying periodically over 8 to 12 weeks the soil came to life as a spongy moisture holding aggregate. These forays into the microbial world instigated the purchase of microscopes and the establishment of a laboratory. Needless to say I was introduced to aerated compost tea (ACT) and began a road of experimentation with different designs, sizes, pumps, recipes, etc. I spent myself into great debt purchasing various meters, microscope parts and building brewers ranging from 1200 gallons down to half a gallon. Through our experimentation I came to the rough conclusion that EM fermentations were effective as soil conditioners and worked well even in the absence of plants. Crop residue and dead roots were broken down rapidly. As a Yin to that Yang ACT was most effect only in the presence of plants as it supplies the functioning microbial consortia which feeds the roots of plants.

The Method Employed:

I exercised this philosophy on our outdoor and greenhouse beds, applying EM fermentations after harvest to help breakdown the old dead roots and lay down a base of living microbes and/or applying it about 2 months to 2 weeks prior to planting. ACT was applied throughout the growing season via overhead irrigation. We had a great deal of success using this method and it was easier because we never dug up our soil again except for planting holes. A great bonus encountered from using ACT is that our powdery mildew problems pretty much went away. (this could also be partly attributed to not using phosphorous anymore).

Indoors we had been growing cannabis in 5 gallon containers, mixing up the soil every planting and all that. I decided to try moving the outdoor system inside. We built bins from 2X6 (& 2X8) which were approximately 36”x12”wide x16” high. They were built so they were sloped out at the front and could be stacked one atop another but there was still access to the soil for planting etc. In this way we could provide enough (I hoped) critical mass for the soil to become a living thing. We stacked the bins about 5 feet high in a basic circle with an entry space and arranged three 1000 watt HPS lamps vertically in a central position evenly spaced to spread light from top to bottom of the stacked bins. The soil was mixed to be good indefinitely. Some batches were roughly 33% top soil, 33% vermicompost, 33% sphagnum peat moss, with perilite, rock phosphate, kelp meal, alfalfa meal and dolomite in minor amounts. Other batches were 50% peat and 50% vermicompost, etc. The bins were filled then drenched with diluted EM fermentation and allowed to sit for about two weeks prior to planting. Glomus mosseae (mycorrhizal) spores were coated on the roots of the rooted cuttings and placed into the transplant holes at planting time. During the whole growing period ACT was applied periodically undiluted. Populations of Persimilis and Cucumerus (sp?) and Lady Bugs were introduced to control mites, aphids and thrips. The plants were grown to approximately 8 to 10 inches tall then the lights were switched from 18 hour days to 12 to induce flowering. They finished at about 18 to 24 inches. The entire growing time was about 10 to 12 weeks. After harvest red wriggler composting worms were dropped into the bins to devour the dead roots and leaves lying on the surface and to poo and aerate the soil. EM fermentations were applied sometimes while the worms were still in, sometimes after. It did not seem to make much difference. The worms were trapped out with mesh plastic traps laid on the surface filled with their favorite foods. Some remained in the bins but that doesn’t matter. At minimum two weeks after applying EM the planting took place again and immediately vermicompost was top dressed as well as fish hydrolysate about a week or two after planting. This continued for about 5 years without ever disturbing the soil. The populations of Persimilis and Cucumerus flourished along with resident Rove beetles, spiders, springtails, rollie pollies, millipedes, etc. The Lady Bugs needed replacements. Mushrooms grew and there was a mini-ecosystem established.

It was good and a joy.

This year we planted tomatoes in July (very late) in straight vermicompost and it looks like we'll have a crop. Healthy plants. Comparies. Note they are growing happily with weeds.
 

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maryjohn

Active member
Veteran
Microbe, nice little bio article there.

What's your philosophy on pulling weeds? Compost? Lay it on the soil? Only when they are chocking the crops? I have notices some lambs quarters in my big plot acting as a trap for a few pests, and we just let them be.
 
thanks microbe man! i got all giddy when i saw you were going to share your growing style in another thread. i'm glad i got a chance to read and learn.
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
Microbeman and/or CT Guy

Are either of you familiar with a company out of Raymond, WA called 'Pacific Gro' and their fish enzyme products? They do the actual manufacturing of their products 'on site' as opposed to outsourcing.

Also - any information about Sea-Crop out of Raymond, Washington as well?

Just curious.

CC
 
C

CT Guy

Microbeman and/or CT Guy

Are either of you familiar with a company out of Raymond, WA called 'Pacific Gro' and their fish enzyme products? They do the actual manufacturing of their products 'on site' as opposed to outsourcing.

Also - any information about Sea-Crop out of Raymond, Washington as well?

Just curious.

CC

Haven't tried the Pacific Gro. I did talk to the fish company you mentioned previously that was in Gig Harbor I think? The guy had some good info. and if he had been certified organic I would have certainly considered using their product.

I think I have some Sea-Crop, but haven't done any microbial testing with it. We shared a booth one year at the NW Flower and Garden Show with Yelm Worms and they brough this guy along who was selling the Sea Crop. His name was Arnie and I don't know if he was associated with the company or just an independent distributor, but he was one of the sleaziest people I've ever met in the industry (not to mention the worst breath ever!). He made more unsubstantiated claims, you'd think the stuff was the cure for cancer. That being said, I can't speak to the product itself, but it put a bad taste in my mouth and I never really went back. I have heard people speak of using comparable type products with good success, but haven't seen any real research on the subject.

Maybe that's another good Winter project...
 
C

CT Guy

He wasn't "certified organic" by whom?

WA State or OMRI, but he made some good points about their regulations not allowing for the preservatives neccessary (something like .02 of a %) that maintain the quality of the product.
 

habeeb

follow your heart
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Microbeman and/or CT Guy

Also - any information about Sea-Crop out of Raymond, Washington as well?

Just curious.

CC

If interested I suggest you read sea energy agriculture, and fertility from the ocean deep. the main guy behind this past away, and his last research paperwork appears to have not shown up since.

I think anyone copying his idea is out to make money as most people get along the way of wanting to better the world.. I have also stated he was a perfectionist when it came to picking out salt, he has said there are only a few places where they quality is to his liking..
 

habeeb

follow your heart
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from microbeman :

"I noted that EM fermentations worked wonders with compacted soil which refused to hold water. After applying periodically over 8 to 12 weeks the soil came to life as a spongy moisture holding aggregate."

I have seen this to Microbeman, I had some old crusty soil sitting in a bag ( like 1 year old ), plopped some snap dragons in a container with it, and after some EM-1 the soil became squishy and as you called it, spongy. I use EM-1 now about once every 2 weeks . I like to keep things on the soft side rather then overdue it
 

magiccannabus

Next Stop: Outer Space!
Veteran
WA State or OMRI, but he made some good points about their regulations not allowing for the preservatives neccessary (something like .02 of a %) that maintain the quality of the product.

I guess that's my problem with OMRI rating. They don't seem to cover some products that don't hurt the micro herd, but may contain tiny amounts of some chemicals. I know a lot of us would like 0% chemical nutrients in our additives, but there are natural things that can kill soil biology(nicotine is a good example). I would imagine there are some chemicals that beneficials even like. Am I looking at this the wrong way?
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I guess that's my problem with OMRI rating. They don't seem to cover some products that don't hurt the micro herd, but may contain tiny amounts of some chemicals. I know a lot of us would like 0% chemical nutrients in our additives, but there are natural things that can kill soil biology(nicotine is a good example). I would imagine there are some chemicals that beneficials even like. Am I looking at this the wrong way?

Not much time so; Even a tiny contribution to the big machine killing the world does not make it okay.
 

maryjohn

Active member
Veteran
You are correct in theory but it's often hard to be sure about what is safe. The standard toxicology approach is to increase the dose until adverse effects are detected. Meanwhile endocrinologists have shown that sometimes smaller doses can do greater damage than larger doses. Particularly substances that act as hormones. Google pthalates (sp?) and you will get an idea.

Microbe, I have some questions about inghams claim that all can be had from bedrock, and others have pointed out that the animals fertilize many ecosystems. Also, flood plains as naturally fertile areas, and areas where there is no bedrock near the surface (like Vancouver, which is built on silt. To hot bedrock you have to go to point grey).

I'm still not convinced you don't need to put something back if you intend to grow intensively without breaks. But then again I came from the npk paradigm and no-dig is relatively new to me. Until recently I was still using my urine as fertilizer.
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
OMRI

OMRI

I guess that's my problem with OMRI rating. They don't seem to cover some products that don't hurt the micro herd, but may contain tiny amounts of some chemicals. I know a lot of us would like 0% chemical nutrients in our additives, but there are natural things that can kill soil biology(nicotine is a good example). I would imagine there are some chemicals that beneficials even like. Am I looking at this the wrong way?
magiccannabus

There is a lot of confusion about what OMRI is and what it is not.

What it "is" is pretty straight-forward. They're a non-profit organization according to their web site </snerk>

OMRI charges a company what they call an annual supplier fee ($1,800.00 to start & $900.00 renewal fee for a company the size of FoxFarm Fertilizer) and then there is the actual 'Product Review Fee' with, of course, the annual renewal fee for each item.

Depending on the ingredients/mix of a product, it will be in either Category 1 or Category 2. Category 1 is pretty cheap - $168.00 to kick thing off and another $84.00 per year.

A Category 2 product is $520.00 to kick things off and $260.00 annually to renew the OMRI rating for that product.

There was a question at the OMRI.org web site that specifically addressed a question that you asked in your first post. Here's a copy 'n paste of the question and answer:

Can I call my product "certified organic" once approved?


"No. The term "certified organic" is reserved for food and fiber products that meet the USDA National Organic Program production standards. Organic operators look for the OMRI Listed® Seal because it assures them the product has passed OMRI expert review for use in organic production. "
OMRI has a great scam going and fortunately very few companies bother with their 'certification' process.

Also from the OMRI web site are these 2 questions under FAQ

6. If I have a product successfully reviewed by OMRI, will it be certifier organic?


No. Products approved by OMRI are not eligible to use the USDA Certified Organic Seal or make claims that they are certified organic.

The reason lays in a basic understanding of two different types of certification offered in the organic industry. The first type is for the foods, fibers, and feeds. These products are eligible to be call "Certified Organic" and carry the USDA's seal for organic products. The second type is for the products used to grow or produce organic foods, feed, or fibers. They include substances such as fertilizers, pesticides, and other materials used on the farm or in the food processing facility. They are not eligible to carry the USDA seal or be called "certified organic." These types of products are either allowed or not allowed for use in organic agriculture or food processing.

Because the job of determining whether the inputs are allowed can be a tough one, OMRI has dedicated itself to the task exclusively. This means that OMRI reviews and approves material inputs to organic agriculture to determine whether they are allowed under US organic rules. If they are, then OMRI assists with the promotion of those inputs by licensing our seal of approval, OMRI Listed, and includes them in our directory viewed and trusted by thousands of organic farmers and gardeners throughout North America.

7. Why is OMRI not USDA accredited as an organic certifier?

OMRI is unique. Although we are a certifier, we are not an organic food/fiber/feed certifier. Therefore, we are not eligible for accreditation by the USDA. Instead, OMRI has recently achieved ISO accreditation. The audit and accreditation was coincidentally done by the USDA (actually the Audit, Review and Compliance Division). USDA auditors confirmed that OMRI solely uses the National Organic Program Rule. See this recent press release.

However, while ineligible for USDA organic certifier accreditation, the National Organic Program has recently acknowledged our vital role. A March 5th memo published on the NOP website explains this to the accredited certifiers and the public.
Bottom line is that OMRI has absolutely NO regulatory or administrative power at any level, i.e. specific state laws or federal laws, edicts, et al.

From what I can tell, given the products actually listed by OMRI it's basically a consumer oriented paradigm. IOW, when you purchase a 50-lb. bag of alfalfa meal at a feed store it's not going to have an OMRI label. If the very same product in that bag is sold and re-packaged by "ABC Grow 'Em Big" and puts it into the local indoor garden center it will probably have the 'OMRI label' on the package that they were forced to pay to keep the OMRI board members fat, dumb and happy down in Eugene.

OMRI is meaningless given their business model. As well as their ethics.

CC
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
I think I have some Sea-Crop, but haven't done any microbial testing with it. We shared a booth one year at the NW Flower and Garden Show with Yelm Worms and they brough this guy along who was selling the Sea Crop. His name was Arnie and I don't know if he was associated with the company or just an independent distributor, but he was one of the sleaziest people I've ever met in the industry (not to mention the worst breath ever!). He made more unsubstantiated claims, you'd think the stuff was the cure for cancer. That being said, I can't speak to the product itself, but it put a bad taste in my mouth and I never really went back. I have heard people speak of using comparable type products with good success, but haven't seen any real research on the subject.
CT Guy

There's another company selling 'sea salts' for agriculture somewhere in the Southeast US but I can't recall their name right now. This other company makes the same silly claims like you mentioned about Sea-Crop.

But it's not limited to either of these companies. Even a reputable company like EM America is given to goofy rhetoric when it comes to sea salts specifically their product EM-X Gold Sea Salt
Sea water contains every element in the periodic table. Sea salt is known for supplying trace minerals and does not have a "salty" taste. EM Research Organization has added a little of their own twist by utilizing Dr. Teruo Higa's Effective Microorganisms Technology (EM Technology®) to this sea salt. This sea salt is harvested directly from the Okinawan sea during the full moon to capture the maximum amount of energy from the ocean and the moon.
It costs $21.99 for 4 oz. or $5.50 per ounce.

Laughable.

Thanks for the input on Pacific Gro. The folks at Earthfort carry this product. This company shares the same office space with Dr. Elaine Ingham's Soil Food Web organization over in Corvallis, OR. I'm not sure of the actual relationship between Earthfort and Dr. Ingham's group.

The price for 5 gallons through Earthfort is $49.99 but I'm sure that the price from the manfacturer in Washington would be better.

Thanks again.

CC
 
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