Anyone out there have any experience with Kontos for root aphid infestation? Wondering how well it works, what dosages it's being used at, and how it effects the plants? Been using orthene with success but it messes the plants up bad for over a month. They get very yellow and sickly looking and just don't grow for awhile. My last orthene treatment kept em away for a few months but they are back again already... really don't want to deal with unhealthy plants again if I can help it.
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Kontos for root aphids?
- Thread starter roasthawg
- Start date
I've never used Kontos for RA, but have used it for other reasons so I can tell you this much...
Dosage is 1ml/gal...
It doesn't negatively affect the plants at all IMO.
I don't know how successful it is as a knock down RA, because from what I recall that's not exactly how it's designed to work on any pest... More so as a preventative or to be used at first sign of infestation. So would probably be best used with another, contact killer sort of thing if you're going up against a major infestation.
But that's not to say it doesn't rip RA a new one, someone that's used it for that purpose would have to chime in.
If you decide to use it, just be sure to read the label thoroughly to understand how to use it, and not over-apply.
Good luck!
Dosage is 1ml/gal...
It doesn't negatively affect the plants at all IMO.
I don't know how successful it is as a knock down RA, because from what I recall that's not exactly how it's designed to work on any pest... More so as a preventative or to be used at first sign of infestation. So would probably be best used with another, contact killer sort of thing if you're going up against a major infestation.
But that's not to say it doesn't rip RA a new one, someone that's used it for that purpose would have to chime in.
If you decide to use it, just be sure to read the label thoroughly to understand how to use it, and not over-apply.
Good luck!
Former Guest
Active member
Please use safety gear like a respirator rated for pesticides, chem gloves (draino makes a gloves and goggles set for like $10) cheaper than a splash in the eye of chem burn) and read all instructions on the website. Acephate is a carcinogen so act accordingly and consider getting some seeds to replace plants if you choose to cull. Find out the half life and apply using the suggested dosage. Honestly, if you use this to kill them, I would still replace all plants and containers then spray your room down to cover surface you missed, turn on fans to vent up into ducts. Dunking the rootball would be the best application. There's some info about dunking whatever pesticide you're using. It has to be submerged for a bit. Good luck and be safe!
Right on, glad to hear it doesn't harm the plants. I think I'll pick some up and give it a go.
The acephate fries my plants everytime man... at doses as low as 1.5g/gal or even a little less. Dunno why it harms some gardens and not others. I mixed it with nutes, maybe that has something to do with it?
Kontos Drench will Kill RA on contact ... it takes 2 weeks to fully work .... Better used as a preventive from just about everything at 1ml per gallon
Use it 2x 1 week apart
Use it 2x 1 week apart
Perfect, I'm all over this. Been using sns203 as the orthene is too hard on my plants. Sns kills some, but not all of em so you gotta run it like once a week to keep population down. I'll give kontos a try and see if I have some better luck... really trying to avoid that acephate!
dabking
Member
definitely in water only. And raise the light. It causes photosensitivity
If you're going to do the Orthene method go all the way with Eclipse's method. Why go half way? He also uses Pyrethrin with PBO. Search the Fungus Gnats or Winged RA thread. Full instructions there, including relation of pH to plant phytoxicity when using. It's possible to temporarily raise or lower pH to avoid phytotoxicity. Good luck. -granger
I did use the riptide too. Used riptide at 2ml/gal and orthene at either 1.5 or 1 ml/gal. Have done this on multiple occasions... kills the aphids everytime but also fries my plants. I have always mixed in with nutes though which clearly may be my problem.
roasthawg,
I would not use nutes with Eclipse's regime. Also search for the pH posts, and raise or lower pH according to what is needed to avoid phytotoxicity. I would use pH'd water to raise or lower pH just prior to Orthene/Riptide soak. If you keep getting re-infested, try area sprays-walls, floor, doors, containers incl bottoms. Are you doing the 30 min soak? The long soak is necessary to get the *entire* root ball soaked incl just under the base of plant, which is RA Central. Good luck. -granger
I would not use nutes with Eclipse's regime. Also search for the pH posts, and raise or lower pH according to what is needed to avoid phytotoxicity. I would use pH'd water to raise or lower pH just prior to Orthene/Riptide soak. If you keep getting re-infested, try area sprays-walls, floor, doors, containers incl bottoms. Are you doing the 30 min soak? The long soak is necessary to get the *entire* root ball soaked incl just under the base of plant, which is RA Central. Good luck. -granger
Bongstar420
Member
Got RA?
Drench in Beauveria/Metarhizium twice 3 days apart. Add aminos and a little sugar. For your second drench, add immunoboosters to it. After the 6th day, drench in spirotetramat/imidacloprid full dose with surfactant. Reason for this is spirotetramat/imidacloprid + surfactant will inhibit Beauveria somewhat and work better if you let the beauveria kill run its course, then drench the chems. If you do foliar of spiro, you can reduce the amount you use and the effect is good. Imida won't work the foliar route on RA. They are a good combo showing 90% kill after 14 days in field trials. For field trial, that is good. No need for overdosing. Just go standard rates on label.
I've got 100% kill on areal aphids with Beauveria spray...just bag the plant for 24hrs after spray, nothing survives it. Works as well on mite, even eriophyid/tarsonemid mtes (needs an additional compatible surfactant to get into the tiny cracks though- combo with insecticidal soap is great) .
I've ignored RA to the point they covered the floor with walkers (up to 5 per square inch near pots). Hardly saw winged ones though. Harvested good stuff with low yield
You can get kill with avid drench...it works on nematodes too, provides some residual inhibition of the todes- abamectin has a really long half life in soil. Aba will only work on contact with aphid...so after a couple hrs, any activity will have stopped because the aba strongly binds to particles.
I grow with them around all the time. Get em every year at my last homestead. Its because I keep houseplants that go in and out every year and I don't care a whole lot about it. For a commercial op, I'd add a bunch of other stuff and not end up treating for em in the first place (some of your standard bennies inhibit aphid in the soil).
I tried stuff like acephate. Killed most of the plants in the room. Still had the aphid. The protocol above works well if you can get a few hundy together for it (the cheapest units are like 80 a pop with this stuff, but you will have a life supply as an individual grower; the beauveria won't last a lifetime though, but you can figure out how to make your own supply if you try and reup your spores every few years)
Drench in Beauveria/Metarhizium twice 3 days apart. Add aminos and a little sugar. For your second drench, add immunoboosters to it. After the 6th day, drench in spirotetramat/imidacloprid full dose with surfactant. Reason for this is spirotetramat/imidacloprid + surfactant will inhibit Beauveria somewhat and work better if you let the beauveria kill run its course, then drench the chems. If you do foliar of spiro, you can reduce the amount you use and the effect is good. Imida won't work the foliar route on RA. They are a good combo showing 90% kill after 14 days in field trials. For field trial, that is good. No need for overdosing. Just go standard rates on label.
I've got 100% kill on areal aphids with Beauveria spray...just bag the plant for 24hrs after spray, nothing survives it. Works as well on mite, even eriophyid/tarsonemid mtes (needs an additional compatible surfactant to get into the tiny cracks though- combo with insecticidal soap is great) .
I've ignored RA to the point they covered the floor with walkers (up to 5 per square inch near pots). Hardly saw winged ones though. Harvested good stuff with low yield
You can get kill with avid drench...it works on nematodes too, provides some residual inhibition of the todes- abamectin has a really long half life in soil. Aba will only work on contact with aphid...so after a couple hrs, any activity will have stopped because the aba strongly binds to particles.
I grow with them around all the time. Get em every year at my last homestead. Its because I keep houseplants that go in and out every year and I don't care a whole lot about it. For a commercial op, I'd add a bunch of other stuff and not end up treating for em in the first place (some of your standard bennies inhibit aphid in the soil).
I tried stuff like acephate. Killed most of the plants in the room. Still had the aphid. The protocol above works well if you can get a few hundy together for it (the cheapest units are like 80 a pop with this stuff, but you will have a life supply as an individual grower; the beauveria won't last a lifetime though, but you can figure out how to make your own supply if you try and reup your spores every few years)
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Cali MedPatient
Member
Hey Bongstar. Are you saying to drench with kontos and imid, or do one or the other?
I had RAs pretty bad. I hit my moms with Merit, then with Bayer complete. The Complete knocked them back pretty good but they were still around. Then I drenched with Botanigard. Then Kontos. They were still around 2 weeks later. Dunked them for 20 minutes in Azamax and Riptide mixed together. Still crawling around. I'm not sure what to do next. I can't seem to kill them all. I'm going to toss these moms, and try to do preventative on the new clones. Just want to have a full arsenal. Thanks.
I had RAs pretty bad. I hit my moms with Merit, then with Bayer complete. The Complete knocked them back pretty good but they were still around. Then I drenched with Botanigard. Then Kontos. They were still around 2 weeks later. Dunked them for 20 minutes in Azamax and Riptide mixed together. Still crawling around. I'm not sure what to do next. I can't seem to kill them all. I'm going to toss these moms, and try to do preventative on the new clones. Just want to have a full arsenal. Thanks.
Root Aphid and Fungus Gnat??
Root Aphid and Fungus Gnat??
I caught these two bastards today after a complete breakdown and cleaning of my mother room due to a root aphid infestation. I took some clones from the infected plants and dipped everything in Spinosad. I killed everything that was planted in soil and moved the new clones to temporary tents while I cleaned and bleached the room. After 20 sticky traps and two weeks with no bugs, I move the now transplanted clones back into the room to grow out a new set of mothers.
It’s been 3 days and I caught these fuckers. I don’t want to admit it, but these are obviously two very different creatures. One appears to be a Fungus Knat and the other a flying Root Aphid??? Aaahhh.
If I’m mistaken, please someone cheer me up! Lol.
Root Aphid and Fungus Gnat??
I caught these two bastards today after a complete breakdown and cleaning of my mother room due to a root aphid infestation. I took some clones from the infected plants and dipped everything in Spinosad. I killed everything that was planted in soil and moved the new clones to temporary tents while I cleaned and bleached the room. After 20 sticky traps and two weeks with no bugs, I move the now transplanted clones back into the room to grow out a new set of mothers.
It’s been 3 days and I caught these fuckers. I don’t want to admit it, but these are obviously two very different creatures. One appears to be a Fungus Knat and the other a flying Root Aphid??? Aaahhh.
If I’m mistaken, please someone cheer me up! Lol.
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