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Looking for pointers on pesticide application.

R

Roperunner420

Member
Have root aphids in some purple lazerlite 3 just transplanted in to 3 gallon smart pots w/ mothers earth coco. Identified root aphids and gnat larva. Leaves twisting, plus visual id. Almost looks like two types. Purchased acephate 97 i have time for a few halflifes before flip. Planning on following fire ant applications because i havent scoured any other info on the drenches. Plan is to mix in milk jug and shake with cap on and apply in well ventilated area. Want to get a mask but can someone reccomend a suitable option. I was just going to get 3m resperator from lowes. Is that sufficient. Was really looking forward to some haze man.... ive tried organicide and and neem. The transplanted plants have sand on the top 2 inch of pot. Will that make a difference if there already infested? It was all good just a week ago. Thanks for any feedback
 
ozzieAI

ozzieAI

Well-known member
Veteran
i have successfully used pure neem oil to defeat RA, just mix it with wetting agent and water in until medium is soaked. i allow pots to stand in the mixture for an hour to ensure full saturation. 2 - 3 applications and my plants bounced back, i use 10ml/litre as a maintenance dose and 20ml/litre to fight infestations.

since you have tried neem in the past i ask: was it pure neem oil as the hydrophobic stuff is next to useless and how old was the neem oil...it has a shelf life and does breakdown if too old or stored incorrectly...did you use a wetting agent?

good luck...
 
R

Roperunner420

Member
ozzieAI said:
i have successfully used pure neem oil to defeat RA, just mix it with wetting agent and water in until medium is soaked. i allow pots to stand in the mixture for an hour to ensure full saturation. 2 - 3 applications and my plants bounced back, i use 10ml/litre as a maintenance dose and 20ml/litre to fight infestations.

since you have tried neem in the past i ask: was it pure neem oil as the hydrophobic stuff is next to useless and how old was the neem oil...it has a shelf life and does breakdown if too old or stored incorrectly...did you use a wetting agent?

good luck...
Click to expand...

I used garden safe neem oil extract. And dunked my beer cup size plants in them 3 times in a week and a half. But i didnt use a wetting agent. Do you think that made a difference in the effectiveness of the treatment?
 
ozzieAI

ozzieAI

Well-known member
Veteran
Roperunner420 said:
I used garden safe neem oil extract. And dunked my beer cup size plants in them 3 times in a week and a half. But i didnt use a wetting agent. Do you think that made a difference in the effectiveness of the treatment?
Click to expand...

yeah thats an extract so it is next to useless as it has the main active ingredient azadirachtin has been removed..and yes you need a wetting agent to work with oil based liquids when mixing with water...look for PURE neem oil and you will be fine...
 
R

Roperunner420

Member
Organicide?

Organicide?

ozzieAI said:
yeah thats an extract so it is next to useless as it has the main active ingredient azadirachtin has been removed..and yes you need a wetting agent to work with oil based liquids when mixing with water...look for PURE neem oil and you will be fine...
Click to expand...

I ordered some pure neem oil. I also have organicide which is labeled for aphids. Do you suppose that would work with the surfactant? Until the neem arrives?
 
MJPassion

MJPassion

Observer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
ANY horticultural oil will clog their spiracles and will cause them to suffocate.
Neem is completely unnecessary and is total overkill in this situation.


other methods for removal include

Diatamaceous Earth application (only works when dry)
Vegetable oil suffocates them
Garlic spray repels them as does planting alliums, mint, anise, coriander and/or wormwood. Nasturtium and marigold also drive them away.


Green Lacewing are ravenous against aphids.
Lady beetle & predatory wasps are also effective.


Yellow sticky traps..
 
R

Roperunner420

Member
Any tips how to top feed coco and still keep the diatamaceous earth dry?
MJPassion said:
ANY horticultural oil will clog their spiracles and will cause them to suffocate.
Neem is completely unnecessary and is total overkill in this situation.


other methods for removal include

Diatamaceous Earth application (only works when dry)
Vegetable oil suffocates them
Garlic spray repels them as does planting alliums, mint, anise, coriander and/or wormwood. Nasturtium and marigold also drive them away.


Green Lacewing are ravenous against aphids.
Lady beetle & predatory wasps are also effective.


Yellow sticky traps..
Click to expand...
 
ozzieAI

ozzieAI

Well-known member
Veteran
MJPassion said:
ANY horticultural oil will clog their spiracles and will cause them to suffocate.
Neem is completely unnecessary and is total overkill in this situation.


other methods for removal include

Diatamaceous Earth application (only works when dry)
Vegetable oil suffocates them
Garlic spray repels them as does planting alliums, mint, anise, coriander and/or wormwood. Nasturtium and marigold also drive them away.


Green Lacewing are ravenous against aphids.
Lady beetle & predatory wasps are also effective.


Yellow sticky traps..
Click to expand...

so do tell: how does one keep DE dry when adding it to a medium that gets watered?

so now we pour oil into our soil..without a wetting agent...hrmmm...that will suffocate more than just the bugs...

using flying insects to control a soil borne one...yeah...NAH...

yellow sticky traps..how does that work on RA..do tell...

sorry RR but there is some hate out there for neem so you will need to decide for yourself on what to use...

good luck...
 
MJPassion

MJPassion

Observer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Roperunner420 said:
Any tips how to top feed coco and still keep the diatamaceous earth dry?
Click to expand...

I haven't been able to figure this out, myself, yet. Hopefully somebody else has some experience in this department.
The one time I attempted to use DE on the surface of my soil/soilless containers, it got wet, clumped up and made it almost impossible to water the next go round because it soaked in so slow.

Until then, a tablespoon of vegetable oil and a little bit of original dish soap (not the antibacterial type) to emulsify the oils in one gallon of water should begin the process of getting those buggers from your garden.
 
S

slapmehard

Member
D.E does not need to be kept dry to be effective
its mixed with water and sprayed in some instances.
that bs news was manufactured by some ahole maybe selling something "stronger",its still mames and pierces when wet.
its that insects will not "dry out" as fast but will have stopped eating mating or laying eggs
 
R

Roperunner420

Member
Application rate

Application rate

Few questions ozzie, i assume its 20 mill/ gallon? Also you say you allow them to stand in mixture, you mean the runoff or do you then water it out of the media? Also i am using coco, should i decrease the ppm of feed, because i know i need to feed coco every time i water. Im feeding 750ppms of jacks w calnit. Thanks for your help.
ozzieAI said:
i have successfully used pure neem oil to defeat RA, just mix it with wetting agent and water in until medium is soaked. i allow pots to stand in the mixture for an hour to ensure full saturation. 2 - 3 applications and my plants bounced back, i use 10ml/litre as a maintenance dose and 20ml/litre to fight infestations.

since you have tried neem in the past i ask: was it pure neem oil as the hydrophobic stuff is next to useless and how old was the neem oil...it has a shelf life and does breakdown if too old or stored incorrectly...did you use a wetting agent?

good luck...
Click to expand...
 
ozzieAI

ozzieAI

Well-known member
Veteran
i use 10ml/litre as a maintenance dose and 20ml/litre to fight infestations.
Click to expand...

a 2 - 3 applications 3 - 4 days apart @ 20ml/litre

what wetting agent are you using?
 
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