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AC Boxes Made Easy (to understand and build)
- Thread starter hoosierdaddy
- Start date
I have always vented into attic. back east I vented my attic ,here in cali its low h and vents naturally without a fan and no moisture buildup. works for me. keep a meter in attic and monitor moisture. attic fans can be installed easily and solar ones are an option for some. mine were like 365$ each
MsMileHigh
Member
I need some serious help.This summer heat burning my babies up.Im running 6k (aircooled ), in a basement.Im currently running an open room but unable to turn all the lights on.I need to get my temps in check before I loose this crop.What size window unit should i purchase and what size fan/fans do I need to exhaust the heat?
I run a little less power than you 4800w.(8x600 aircooled)but in a bigger room 160 sqft and have (12000 btu) A/C ,i am able to keep my room at 82-85 ,but this is border line .For you ,i would say 24000 btu will be enouft,don't forget Co2 if you are sealed your room
MsMileHigh
Member
Thanks for the imput.Yea I think im gonna go with a 24000 btu.My question is what type of fan/duct should I use to exhaust? I have a 14in max fan, but im afraid its to big/strong.Can oversizing the fan interfere with the fans operation..
For my 12000btu i use a 8"vortex fan pushing air through the top of a\c 
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MsMileHigh
Member
For my 12000btu i use a 8"vortex fan pushing air through the top of a\c
So you dont use a fan to exhaust?
Nice thread.
Anyone have any ideas for making the inline fan only turn on when the compressor is running? Some sort of controller or relay?
Anyone have any ideas for making the inline fan only turn on when the compressor is running? Some sort of controller or relay?
BlueGrassToker
Active member
The AC unit given in the original example does not really need an inline fan. It will pull in the air it needs, as well as push it out. A fresh supply of air and a place for the hot air to go is all it needs. Although it does help to cool the exchanger tubes when you add an inline fan. Duct fans from Lowes and similar hardware places have 6" and 8" duct fans that have heat sensor controls with the sensor mounting inside the duct itself.
Yes i understand the original example, but it also doesnt have the airflow reduced to a 6" duct as i do, hence the inline fan.
I'll have to take a look for the 6" duct fan with the heat sensor......didnt know they existed but sounds like possibly a good solution.
I'll have to take a look for the 6" duct fan with the heat sensor......didnt know they existed but sounds like possibly a good solution.
Thanks HD
Thanks HD
Excellent Info HD Thank You, this is definitely a top 5 thread on ICMAG. I read every page 3 times before getting started and I still had a few hiccups namely with the so called insulated ducting, the brand I used is ThermoFlo well to sum it up in short it is not insulated or light proof. After wrapping the ducting in 6 mil everything is working smoothly I have a 12k BTU LG window ac running 3 1ks. These pics are before I wrapped the ducting in 6mil. I would highly suggest using Gorrilla Duct Tape the stuff is like using cement. I have 8 inch ducting for a passive intake with 10 inch ducting for out take with a 10' vortex pushing the hot air out the room and down the hall and down the stairs heating the whole house.
Thanks HD
Excellent Info HD Thank You, this is definitely a top 5 thread on ICMAG. I read every page 3 times before getting started and I still had a few hiccups namely with the so called insulated ducting, the brand I used is ThermoFlo well to sum it up in short it is not insulated or light proof. After wrapping the ducting in 6 mil everything is working smoothly I have a 12k BTU LG window ac running 3 1ks. These pics are before I wrapped the ducting in 6mil. I would highly suggest using Gorrilla Duct Tape the stuff is like using cement. I have 8 inch ducting for a passive intake with 10 inch ducting for out take with a 10' vortex pushing the hot air out the room and down the hall and down the stairs heating the whole house.
Thanks HD Salute
Thanks HD Salute
These pics are from 30 days in flowering and everything is working like a charm. The 12k BTU keeps the 3k at 71 degrees as long as temps outside are below 50 degrees if the temps get above 50 and into the 60s or 70s the room can get up to 80 degrees. I had drilled a hole in the bottom near the drain for water run off but the AC had other ideas and sent it to the corner of the out take box where it connects with the AC but it has been no problem I have a small pan to catch the water and not much drips out and only on warm days above 60 on real winter days when the temps stay in the 20s-40s this system works like a charm. I was a little skeptical that this system would work but it surely does and the plants love having the CO2 flowing in a controlled grow environment. The Dehumidifier runs alot less than expected, and night time temps stay around 60.
Be back for another update before harvest.
Grape Ape
Thanks HD Salute
These pics are from 30 days in flowering and everything is working like a charm. The 12k BTU keeps the 3k at 71 degrees as long as temps outside are below 50 degrees if the temps get above 50 and into the 60s or 70s the room can get up to 80 degrees. I had drilled a hole in the bottom near the drain for water run off but the AC had other ideas and sent it to the corner of the out take box where it connects with the AC but it has been no problem I have a small pan to catch the water and not much drips out and only on warm days above 60 on real winter days when the temps stay in the 20s-40s this system works like a charm. I was a little skeptical that this system would work but it surely does and the plants love having the CO2 flowing in a controlled grow environment. The Dehumidifier runs alot less than expected, and night time temps stay around 60.
Be back for another update before harvest.
Grape Ape
ParanoidNovice
Member
Hi, sorry if this has been asked but...
Has anyone tried extending the thermostat built in to the ac unit into the grow environment instead of purchasing a separate controller to duplicate that function? I have an ac unit with the thermostat mounted to the front center behind the filter with a wire that would could be extended...
I'm just not sure if it would work effectively.
Has anyone tried extending the thermostat built in to the ac unit into the grow environment instead of purchasing a separate controller to duplicate that function? I have an ac unit with the thermostat mounted to the front center behind the filter with a wire that would could be extended...
I'm just not sure if it would work effectively.
whatsmells
Member
Drop That Sound
Well-known member
Anyone know if its possible to skip the ducting all together, and just stick the condenser side into a cooler or res (opposite of a DIY AC chiller), and water cool the unit?
Use smaller hoses and pump to a radiator somewhere, instead of bulky fans and ducting, with a glycol solution to remove the heat.
Or even use 2 reservoirs for the hot and cold sides of a DIY AC chiller. Basically you would have a water cooled water cooler cooling your cool room lol. That's what I want to do but would even settle with just a water cooled AC in the room too!
What you guys think? I got a 6300 btu ready to be hacked into something rad but don't want to burn it up if it won't work..
Use smaller hoses and pump to a radiator somewhere, instead of bulky fans and ducting, with a glycol solution to remove the heat.
Or even use 2 reservoirs for the hot and cold sides of a DIY AC chiller. Basically you would have a water cooled water cooler cooling your cool room lol. That's what I want to do but would even settle with just a water cooled AC in the room too!
What you guys think? I got a 6300 btu ready to be hacked into something rad but don't want to burn it up if it won't work..
methias
Active member
Great tutorial,
As a former HVAC technician I see you grok the principles well.
Not criticising, just providing the correct terminology.
The inside (grow room) cooling coil is the evaporator or evap coil
The outside coil is the condensing coil. Both need air flowing across to work. The heat is exhausted by the condensing coil..
Refrigerant vapor is compressed (by a compressor) and condenses to liquid in the condensing coil as a fan blows air across to remove the heat (exhaust). This liquid refrigerant (now cooled) is piped to the evap coil
Refrigerant evaporates in the evap coil as air is blown across it. That sucks the heat energy out of the air, cooling it. .
The refrigerant goes back to the compressor to go again.
Your pics are correct but don't close off too much airflow.
More / better airflow = more efficient both cooling and energy wise.
Also those window bangers do have a filter clean it monthly,. You will be amazed how much it catches.
Pretty baked but if I blew it, feel free to call me on it.
Again good tutorial
Vape on kids.
As a former HVAC technician I see you grok the principles well.
Not criticising, just providing the correct terminology.
The inside (grow room) cooling coil is the evaporator or evap coil
The outside coil is the condensing coil. Both need air flowing across to work. The heat is exhausted by the condensing coil..
Refrigerant vapor is compressed (by a compressor) and condenses to liquid in the condensing coil as a fan blows air across to remove the heat (exhaust). This liquid refrigerant (now cooled) is piped to the evap coil
Refrigerant evaporates in the evap coil as air is blown across it. That sucks the heat energy out of the air, cooling it. .
The refrigerant goes back to the compressor to go again.
Your pics are correct but don't close off too much airflow.
More / better airflow = more efficient both cooling and energy wise.
Also those window bangers do have a filter clean it monthly,. You will be amazed how much it catches.
Pretty baked but if I blew it, feel free to call me on it.
Again good tutorial
Vape on kids.
I'm not new to this site, nor this thread. I've known about this thread for years and years. I feel as though I know the answer to this question, but I'm going to ask it anyway, because I'd like to see if anyone has input or would just indulge me in talking it out.
So, if I wanted to use a mini-split system, but keep the condenser (hot side unit) inside, could I build a box/enclosure around the condenser and fit it with an intake and exhaust to a window/outside?
So, if I wanted to use a mini-split system, but keep the condenser (hot side unit) inside, could I build a box/enclosure around the condenser and fit it with an intake and exhaust to a window/outside?
