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bobblehead's organic bedroom of high brix gardening

silver hawaiian

Active member
Veteran
Thanks for the tip! I'll be sure to let my amendments cook before applying them in the future. It takes a few days to brew a fungal tea... so I don't think that adjusting the pH of the water was the wrong choice to try and correct things a little faster.

good advice! Thanks.

edit: I just popped my head in the garden and the plants are visually improving. Moisture levels in the beds are around 40-70mbar, and I don't irrigate again until they're around 150-200mbar. I actually don't even want my beds as saturated as they are, but I was trying to fix the pH issue. Hopefully I don't end up with over-watering issues.

I think you'll be fine with the pH. I didn't think to mention it (nor would I have articulated it so well), but InjectTruth's right on - the chelating effect of the humates and all that jazz, pH is rarely an issue in dirt. That's not to say it can't get sideways, but IME, there would have to be a significant imbalance for things to get terribly wonky.

Great info, IT - I didn't realize that fungal-dominant teas have that affect on pH.

See, bobble, there you go again - another thread that's a good little culture for good info sharing. :thank you:
 

silver hawaiian

Active member
Veteran
I'm shocked. Some Goat is getting returned to me, and Straw DD is being asked for by name. Fucking wild. I take back my comments about taking her out of the big room. I really can't believe this. lol...

What's the gripe about the Goat?

How would you say she yields vs. the SDD? I know they're both chunkers, but is one significantly more'n the other?

(Wasn't the original "ditch the StrawDD" plan mostly based on sex appeal, and not her performance for you?)
 
...
Fungi dominant teas drop the ph FAST. This is one of the reasons why 'cooking' soil is so important. It gives the fungi a chance to begin breaking down many of the organic amendments, so the giant ph spike is already over by the time you plant in it.

...

I've been dealing with this in my room right now I believe, and your comment is incredibly helpful to me. I've had a little bit of a rough start and seriously damaged a few plants with some questionable teas by dropping the pH on soil that only cooked for 2-3 weeks. I had underdone the lime on the batch expecting it to cook faster than it did since I was hitting it with tea every few days (first big grow with compost tea). Just wanted to say thanks for reinforcing the conclusion I had already come to about fungal teas.

Also, I noticed that when I add earth juice rooter's mycorrhizae to the brew (just a few hours before giving it to the plants) the pH drops very significantly, from the ~7 range down to ~5.5+-.5.
 

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
What's the gripe about the Goat?

How would you say she yields vs. the SDD? I know they're both chunkers, but is one significantly more'n the other?

(Wasn't the original "ditch the StrawDD" plan mostly based on sex appeal, and not her performance for you?)

St. DD is the heaviest yeilding plant I have, and will test into the low 20's when grown right. I thought the goat looked better and had a stronger smell, and it tests higher... Some of the buds are a little airy I think in part due to faulty ballasts... But I think that they just don't like the goat much honestly.

My guy came by, inspected the st. DD buds I was trimming, and insisted that they wouldn't be a problem. They're bigger and more full than the goat buds. The goat is more dense. I'm baffled... But w/e, I give my market what it demands. One time one of my coworkers smoked my st. DD buds with me. I kinda like that my plant has a reputation in the community, and I'm the exclusive supplier.

I really think I need to monocrop st. DD in the big room. Even if I have to drop the price more, so what when she puts out gallon sized buds?
 

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
I finished trimming the straw dd, ended up with 3lbs of good nugs, and 2lbs of crap that I'm unloading cheap or turning into hash. I've decided to upgrade all the lights to 1kw. This will bring me down to 6kw and make the temps easier to control, and provide deeper penetration into the canopy to make better nugs. Everyone is right, the 1kw lamps really do make a difference. I just got 3 more 1kw ballast/reflector/lamp kits from a police auction for $296.
 

Mister_D

Active member
Veteran
I finished trimming the straw dd, ended up with 3lbs of good nugs, and 2lbs of crap that I'm unloading cheap or turning into hash. I've decided to upgrade all the lights to 1kw. This will bring me down to 6kw and make the temps easier to control, and provide deeper penetration into the canopy to make better nugs. Everyone is right, the 1kw lamps really do make a difference. I just got 3 more 1kw ballast/reflector/lamp kits from a police auction for $296.

Just some food for thought. Had you instead used two 600's to cover a slightly larger area than you are using the 1k's for (equal area lit on a watt for watt basis) you would achieve the desired deeper penetration, more even lighting coverage, and increased cross lighting. Photons are photons, plants only care how many are available, and watt for watt 600's produce more than other wattages (except the double ended Philips 1k). However a grower can also manipulate this to his or her advantage by insuring as much of the plant is lit from multiple angles as possible (ever notice how the sun seems to light every side of a plant?). Doing this seriously reduces the potential for larf. Can't tell me you wouldn't rather have 5 lbs of primo?
 

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
I had a 1kw lamp in the middle, sandwhiched by 2 600's. I get what you're saying about having the 600's opposite of each other... But I have other uses for my 600's, and I'm getting 1kw ballasts cheap. I'm buying as many light sets as I can get at a reasonable price. Can't beat $100 for 1kw ballast, raptor/xxxl/etc, ushio or horti eye lamps. Also having the lighter load on my a/c is good, cause later in flower when I have to run the dehuey temps can climb. I need another 2-3 tons of ac and I can run 10kw. :D
 

Mister_D

Active member
Veteran
I had a 1kw lamp in the middle, sandwhiched by 2 600's. I get what you're saying about having the 600's opposite of each other... But I have other uses for my 600's, and I'm getting 1kw ballasts cheap. I'm buying as many light sets as I can get at a reasonable price. Can't beat $100 for 1kw ballast, raptor/xxxl/etc, ushio or horti eye lamps. Also having the lighter load on my a/c is good, cause later in flower when I have to run the dehuey temps can climb. I need another 2-3 tons of ac and I can run 10kw. :D

Can't argue with the cheap ass price of those lights, but I have to wonder how much more you would have yielded with 4 600's covering a slightly larger canopy. Enough to cover the extra cost in a single crop? My money is on yes ;) To be fair I already know which works better, did a lot of testing with this back in the warehouse days :biggrin:. Do what works best for you though man, environment always comes first.
 

Crusader Rabbit

Active member
Veteran
Following this thread, I feel like I'm sitting in on a graduate seminar on growing. Many thanks for your hard earned knowledge guys.
 

DamnUglyDogE

Learning the rules well,so as to break them effect
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Sup bro...

Talk about another gold mine you got going here man...

I just dig the hell out of the idea of No till Living beds...
Im seeing a kind of compost living bed used for 10 years untilled in my future...
Sweet... lol

Thanks for all this great work man...

:scripture: Way the hell up in the nose bleed seats....:yoinks: Epic shit... Even,from up here.... :respect:

Keep on,keeping on,brother....



:abduct:



.
 

Maina

Active member
Veteran
Flowering straw dd now. You really need to flower this cut of mod boss ohhhh my . 8 weeker big buds massive frost .massive
 
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