First extraction. What you think

I'll soak hemp in n-hexane

Filter through vacuumed Buchner with activated charcoal

Rotovap under vacuum (water aspirated vacuum pump)until hexanes recovered

Add ethanol to oil to wash it and rotovap that mostly off

Purge in vac oven


What do you think? Any tips?

What temperature should I keep water bath while while rotovaping the hexane off while under vacuum?

Safety is top priority. I plan on soaking hemp with hexane outside and after filtering pour it into 5 liter evaporating flask and bring inside where rotovap will be. Should I rotovap outside? or would I need an explosion proof fan exhausting room too.

You are literally playing with fire, rotovaps are not toys, they are operated under a fumehood in the lab.

Single wash with pentane, rotvap off, vac purge.

Thanks for replying. I know this is serious and want to take precautions and be safe.

The reason I am going down this path is I just took down my hemp harvest. I work solo. Gave a little to extractor to run but got robbed on that so I'm back to doing everything by myself.

Just looking for parameters(water bath temp, vacuum or not) to work within to be safe. It's getting colder where I am at but can still do everything outside if need be.

I was in a lab and watched buddy do this hexane rotovap process. I liked hexane because it seemed to evaporate really quick.

Would you consider just squeezing rosin instead?

I don't think it's scalable. I grew three acres of high Cbd hemp

einsteinlady said:

I'll soak hemp in n-hexane

Filter through vacuumed Buchner with activated charcoal

Rotovap under vacuum (water aspirated vacuum pump)until hexanes recovered

Add ethanol to oil to wash it and rotovap that mostly off

Purge in vac oven


What do you think? Any tips?

What temperature should I keep water bath while while rotovaping the hexane off while under vacuum?

Safety is top priority. I plan on soaking hemp with hexane outside and after filtering pour it into 5 liter evaporating flask and bring inside where rotovap will be. Should I rotovap outside? or would I need an explosion proof fan exhausting room too.

Click to expand...

Morning Alberta! I would run it at about 25C.

Your water aspirator at best will pull around -28.5" Hg under the best of conditions, and probably not so good.

Hexane is about as flammable/explosive as gasoline, so needs to be done outside with adequate forced ventilation, or in a properly designed exhaust hood with explosion proof fan.

SkyHighLer said:

You are literally playing with fire, rotovaps are not toys, they are operated under a fumehood in the lab.

Single wash with pentane, rotvap off, vac purge.

Click to expand...

The more I read your posts, the more I question my own setup ..

Outside temperature is cold this time of year around forty degrees Fahrenheit. Will this have any adverse effect except taking longer for bath to get to desired temperature

You may want to add a winterization. There are fire codes and exposure limits but the actual danger of rotavaps is negligible as long as your condensing doesn't fail and the receiver doesn't overflow. And you don't take ethers to dryness. DCM eliminates both fire concern and need for vacuum, but won't prevent you from fumbling the flask. Also, the charcoal is unnecessary but if you use it and it's powdered carbon, vacuum often does not help.

The final event that led me to write Cannabis Alchemy was a lab explosion that put me in the hospital for several months. A friend was distilling some 30 to 60 degree pet ether and blew about a liter into the air. I was sleeping in the next room and went into the room he was working in after he woke me up yelling. I walked into the room and, all of a sudden. WHooooosh … boom. Blew out the front and back windows in a large Victorian flat, and actually jammed the doors shut. I was in the epicenter so there was no concussion, just a thorough frying. I reached into the flames and removed a 5 gallon can of pet ether. Good thing I did or it might have leveled the Haight Ashbury.

I came up with the safety methods that are in the book while I was in the hospital for a few months. The methods in the book were designed to give the operator the greatest degree of safety possible. I didn’t want anyone going thru what I did.

So I wrote the book and started a publishing company. The first edition was called Cannabis Alchemy – The Art of Modern Hashmaking: Preparation of Extremely Potent Cannabis Products. It came out in 1972. It was the first serious book on cannabis science that was published from a consumer’s point of view.

Level Press was started with several friends and we soon published a number of similar books. Among them was the first edition of Ed’s Marijuana Growers Guide, as well as a series of how-to books with High Times, and several by Dr. Leary.

Right around the time that the book came out, a wave of Afghani Honey Oil hit San Francisco. Made in Afghanistan from fresh charas and purified by fractional distillation, this wonderful product was the strongest cannabis preparation that anyone anywhere, up until that time, had probably ever smoked, in my opinion. It was probably around 80% or more cannabinoids, but was unlike similar oils available today. It had all the high of the THC that one would expect, but retained the powerful ass-kicking knock-you-down power of fine Afghani. It retailed for $50 a gram and was worth every cent to everyone who partook of the lung-crushing delight. Its acrid taste indicated that it probably was isomerized, but I don’t think it was acetylated. Many people attribute its import to the Brotherhood of Eternal Love in Laguna Beach, a courageous bunch of long-distance surfers!

For the next decade or so, many different extraction products were available in California. The original Honey Oil from The Brotherhood was the standard and very few offerings approached its intensity and quality.

https://thealchemistresource.thealchemistresource.com/p/blog-page_64.html


Link to where I found the attachment,

https://thealchemistresource.thealchemistresource.com/p/blog-page_98.html


If you're going to distill flammable liquids indoors at least have full forced ventilation and eliminate or seal off any ignition sources.

I would ask some questions first:


What is your end goal for the extraction? (edible, smoke or?)


Why did you choose Hexane as your solvent?


How many units do you have to process?


What state?


Just as Gray Wolf said, hexane is almost as volatile as gasoline.. there's a slight difference in the flash points (FP). Hexane's -9F and gas is like -43F. This is VERY important when dealing with open source hydrocarbons. So 40 degree temps mean that hexane is ready to ignite anytime! All that you need is correct saturation with oxygen and an ignition source and whallla! Your a BBQ!


You may consider using something like ethanol (everclear)? This is a much more stable and the FP is about 62F. So if you were going to perform this outside you are much safer. Inside may be fine, however ventilation is of course needed.

May i ask what is the highest extraction yeild for crude oil that anyone has seen and what methid did they use.