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Earth Juice PH

supermanlives

Active member
Veteran
start with mild and work to normal if all ok. follow directions on back bottle for how much. i havent needed to go above normal dose except for a boost.
 

highbrid1

Member
Hibrid1,
The MO is a primary part of the problem. It drops the pH way down, and the low pH is inhospitable to the non-fungal critters that raise the pH. That's why I've started using the Sucanat or Agave in the initial mix. They have little effect on the pH.

Are you using MetaK? If you are, you don't need the MO for K. Another source of sugar that doesn't drop the pH like MO does is all you need to go with the MetaK. If the pH of your first mix is still below 5, I would use less Grow, Bloom, and MetaK in the first mix [but don't lower the sugar], then add the rest later, after the pH rises. Then let the pH brew back up, and add Microblast and other additives, and adjust the pH with Catalyst at feeding. If you are using other additives, I would mix them one by one, checking the pH after adding each to get an idea of their effect on the mix. Again, don't bubble the Microblast.

If your pH allows, then you can use MO, but carefully. The Sucanat has the carbs covered, and if you want more carbs without lowering the pH, you can add more Sucanat or Agave. You may need to do this to bump the pH up high enough so that when you do the final pH ajustment, you can add at least 2 tsp/gal total of Catalyst. You'll want to add that much in certain stages of bloom cycle.

http://www.iherb.com/Sucanat ,or you can get it at "Natural Food" stores. Whole foods has it in bulk cheap. A pound goes a long way.

I don't think the amount of EWC is very critical, but the more you use, the more critters you start with which gives you faster brewing time. I use a big handful in 4 gal. Using more, unless bagged in a paint strainer bag or similar can be a bit cumbersome. Report back with your experiences after playing with it some. Good luck. -granger

Dude, just went out and bought some Sucanat sugar, made some solution using ONLY that, worm castings and EJ Grow and Bloom and my PH is 4.3 (EXACTLY what it was with the MO)

It's the EJ bloom and grow that lowers the PH for me, not the molasses.
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
Hybrid,
You're starting with water with a lower pH than I am. And yes, the EJ Grow, Bloom do drop the pH. So, as I said before, use less, inoculate and bubble it till the pH comes back up, then add the rest. But if you add molasses instead of Sucanat, it will be more stubborn about rising.

Supermanlives also gave good advice. Good luck. -granger
 
T

TribalSeeds

Dude, just went out and bought some Sucanat sugar, made some solution using ONLY that, worm castings and EJ Grow and Bloom and my PH is 4.3 (EXACTLY what it was with the MO)

It's the EJ bloom and grow that lowers the PH for me, not the molasses.

He must be using EJ's molasses, it really drops the PH like crazy. The bottle of organic Blackstrap I have only slightly drops the ph.
Always check to make sure your EJ bottle hasnt started to solidify at the bottom of the bottle.
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
No, I was asking Tribal Seeds what brand of organic blackstrap he uses that doesn't drop the pH. Yeah, Hi-Brix is thick and it drops the pH like the other brands of molasses I've used. -granger
 

GetUpStandUp

Active member
I know this has been discussed in other threads but Im not seeing the answer to my question.

This is my first run using EJ and I knew before I ever bought a bottle that there are issues with the PH. I know you're supposed to bubble the tea for 24-72 hours and the PH is supposed to rise and stabilize. This is not happening for me. The PH does not change from the low 4s no matter how long I bubble it. Then I get runoff in the mid 7s. Im having serious lockout issues and using a solution around 5 to try to balance things out. The tea does foam as I bubble it, so I know the microbes are doing their thing.

Why is my PH not rising as I bubble the tea? Im using the standard EJ line + 10ml blackstrap per gallon. The temp of the tea as I bubble is low 70s. Do I need to heat the tea to change/stableize the PH? Medium is FF Ocean Forrest. Should I start amending this with peat moss?

Thanks
I have a totally 100% organic grow, only distilled water, and worm poo teas, I never use EJ for tea even tho you can. I found out the hard way that the meter will throw you off everytime, just because you may have a synthetic somewhere in the equation. If you are growin synthetic, and using EJ, yes you will see problems. The most I see now is barely yellowing of the two bottom leaves, but never new growth.

I do know if you over feed EJ you will get the same results of lookin lockouts. I feed EJ, then next water I do just worm poo molasass, and then EJ again, workin fine, and you really can smell the EJ in the flowers I swear. I would go with sugarpeak EJ as it is newer, and more molasass base than original.

I think your like every single one of us when we got ladies going, doing to much. We think out every thing, when really she grows herself, just give her treats every now again, she will respond. Hell some guys use straight water, and I see good buds, not as big, but packs a punch. Just start off slow, find her Gspot, then work it! Good luck, hope I helped :tiphat:
 

Gascanastan

Gone but NOT forgotten...
Veteran
EARTH juice...gawd that's a kewl name.
Juice of the EARTH man....like the EARTH makes juice man..or "this juice here is straight from the EARTH man.."...
...or since it has a name like 'EARTH juice' it's got to be wholesome,honest,pure,and just like eatin' big fat buckwheat pancake's with pure maple syrup up at grandpa's huntin' cabin in the woods on yer summer vacation.....

These guys are smart,they have to come up with a name that rings the bells and blows the whistles in your memories of what is 'pure'...not to mention it can't totally screw up your plants....it has to work..somewhat @ least. If there's a problem they'll sell you their solution.

I used EJ and abandoned it over 13 years ago....things are better than ever since I dropped the bottles and built myself some real living soil...and listened to the old farts here who have used living soil years b4 me~
 

highbrid1

Member
Rainman himself couldn't have said it better.

Yeah, ive got earf juice, yeah:tumbleweed:

Lx

The bottle say 30ml/gal for large and rapidly growing container plants. So 'mild' means what? 15ml? I started at 10 and up to 15/20 V/B.

Also, some people in this thread have said that runoff PH doesnt mean anything. This is wrong. I have 9 lemon larry og plants in flower and the most unhealthy one has a runoff of 7.6 (highest runoff). The healthiest specimen has a runoff of 6.7 (lowest) -- there a definitive relation with the other plants as well. Runoff PH matters ALOT if the reading is accurate.
 

Scrappy4

senior member
Veteran
The bottle say 30ml/gal for large and rapidly growing container plants. So 'mild' means what? 15ml? I started at 10 and up to 15/20 V/B.

Also, some people in this thread have said that runoff PH doesnt mean anything. This is wrong. I have 9 lemon larry og plants in flower and the most unhealthy one has a runoff of 7.6 (highest runoff). The healthiest specimen has a runoff of 6.7 (lowest) -- there a definitive relation with the other plants as well. Runoff PH matters ALOT if the reading is accurate.


When you have a good compost and or ewc in your soil, the soil/plant make the nessisary adjustments on their own, so for that reason run off ph does not matter. (and that is avoiding the whole what are you measuring anyway question, lol) The better your soil the more you can trust and rely on it. Of course it's also true that the better soil you have the less you need earth juice products. I don't say this to put them down, I think they make a decent product and sell it at a fair price, and I've used it myself with good success. It's just that I came to the conclusion that I could do better......scrappy
 
T

TribalSeeds

No, I was asking Tribal Seeds what brand of organic blackstrap he uses that doesn't drop the pH. Yeah, Hi-Brix is thick and it drops the pH like the other brands of molasses I've used. -granger

Wholesome Sweeteners Organic Molasses Unsulphured from Whole Foods. They also carry this brand at the hydro store near me. It does slightly drop the PH, but nothing like EJ Hi Brix (0-0-4 or whatever). If I put the Wholesome stuff into a 6.0 mix it would drop to about 5.8 or so, but I kind of add the molasses first most of the time.
 

Gascanastan

Gone but NOT forgotten...
Veteran
"Also, some people in this thread have said that runoff PH doesnt mean anything. This is wrong."

Good luck man...kind of ironic that you are here at all discussing the problems you are having with ph in the first place and avoiding understanding the natural processes that govern the soil itself.

Hey Scrap...We try...some listen. Those that do take there game to the next level..others....meh...whatev~
Peace
GC
 

morningdewd

Member
heres the deal with earth juice. it must be mixed/brewed every day for 2 to 4 days .the ph will rise from about 2.5/ 3 when first mixed according to label directions with ro water to about 8.once the ph stops rising usually about 7.5/ 8 and about 3/4 days its time to ph down to 6.3 where it will be stable and no ppm increase will occur.if you ph up at the begining after it brews for a few days the ppm sails off the chart.Morningdewd
 

Ground Up

Member
heres the deal with earth juice. it must be mixed/brewed every day for 2 to 4 days .the ph will rise from about 2.5/ 3 when first mixed according to label directions with ro water to about 8.once the ph stops rising usually about 7.5/ 8 and about 3/4 days its time to ph down to 6.3 where it will be stable and no ppm increase will occur.if you ph up at the begining after it brews for a few days the ppm sails off the chart.Morningdewd
agreed.... however 48 hours is good.. take ph to 5.-5.8.. ,My buddies mix and pour with great success... i run reserc and drain to waste.. always had good results with both!!
 
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