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new shoots and leaves of bright/lime green color

ramse

ramse

Active member
I have plants under a t5 appliance that are going to go outdoors.
The plants have about 7-8 weeks, are in 3 gal pots, in a mixture of soil composed of 30% light mix and the remaining pre-fertilized organic mix. The only food they received were a couple of leaf applications of ascophyllum nodosum and calcified algae - lithotamnio (80% Ca 15% Mg and Si).

Suddenly they started to show a light / bright green color in all the new growths.

Initially I thought that the cause could be the difference in temperature between day and night that occurred in this last days of bad weather.
But then I noticed that there were a couple of plants that didn't show the problem and the only treatment compared to the other plants they didn't receive was irrigation.
Once irrigated with decanted tap water and with stabilized pH, the following morning they showed the same symptoms...

One thing that happened before using the water was work on the plumbing system in my neighborhood that caused a temporary suspension of the water supply. Once the water supply has been reactivated I obviously let the water run from the tap for a long time... this is the only thing that makes me think that it caused the problem to the plants...
now, I don't have the confidence that it was the water that caused the problem... but that's the only thing that changed from the normal "routine".

I forgot, the drain pH was fine.

These are the photos of a plant:
Wookie Hashplant

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ramse

ramse

Active member
Switcher56 said:
It'c common for new groth to be "paller" until the leafs have hardened off.
Click to expand...


ok this is clear. but I assure you that within half a day the leaves have gone from normal green to this lime green. maybe it's my paranoia and it was simply the temperature difference between day and night.
the color change was very significant, not only in the new growth, but also in the younger leaves already hardened
 
N

nickman

Active member
Veteran
It’s fine. Just what he said above..... new growth is always pale at first... the leaves that are lower on the plant can stay that way for a while if no light can get to them...
they’re usually the sucker branches that I cut off as to divert more energy to the tops...!!!...
 
ramse

ramse

Active member
this one is instead a female of Raspberry HP, which besides the same symptoms as the others plants, has started to hook the leaves
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ramse

ramse

Active member
I hope it is as you say...
I have seen the growth of new shoots and pale green leaves when there is a marked difference between day and night temperatures. That in fact these days there has been.

the photos are not the best, but for example these leaves are turned from a normal green to a bronzed lime green
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T

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
The dark green is a symptom of magnesium shortage/almost deficiency.

The light green shoots means the plant is getting more magnesium.

However the lack of length to the nodes means the plant isn't getting enough potassium.

Now this could be lack of nutrients, or it could be lockout. I don't know what the floor of the grow room looks like, however if the plants are on the floor, it's likely to be just a little too cold for the roots. Floors conduct cold very well. Just placing them 1 or 2 inches off the floor on a folded crate is enough.
 
SuperBadGrower

SuperBadGrower

Active member
ramse said:
this one is instead a female of Raspberry HP, which besides the same symptoms as the others plants, has started to hook the leaves
View Image]View Image[/URL]
Click to expand...


When I see this picture and some of the others, I'm thinking that the T5 just isn't intense enough for plants this size to photosynthesize for those branches which are sinks of energy rather than sources of it. I.e. the lowers and those shaded by fan leaves. The structure of the plant is a nice main shoot but the early nodes' branches don't seem like they developed like they would have in a high light situation. Moreover all the big fan leaves are happening on the main stem. Another sign of low light IME. Or maybe the plants are close together and it's too crowded. (Which still translates to not enough light in not enough places)

Lower branches (or those shaded by fan leaves) look fine if the rest of the plant gets enough light but as soon as the light demand is not met, you'll start to see pale new growth where the light isn't hitting.

The yellowing tops, and the small size, of your lower branches look a lot like plants I've kept in my bedroom, window sill and other low light environments. I'm not saying that your T5 system is low light in general, obviously it can grow plants for a few weeks. And they look very fine.

Anyway it wouldn't explain everything you described... just an observation
 
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ramse

ramse

Active member
Is a t5ho device with 8 tubes of 90 cm for 39 watts each, it seems to me that the manufacturer declares 3500 lumens per tube. Obviously the penetration is what it is... however the plants are about 40 cm high.
Yes, they must surely be moved as soon as possible, I usually do 4-5 weeks under t5 with good success.

I had planned to move them outdoors a couple of weeks ago, but due to unforeseen events and bad weather I had to postpone...
I should be able to move them outdoors this week.

No the plants do not rest on the floor but on a shelf. Night temperatures are around 17/18 degrees.

Regarding the poor length of the nodes, I think it is due to t5 and not to a lack of potassium... I have always obtained several compact plants under t5.

they receive 15 hours of light, in line with the hours of light present in mid-May

However the fading of the leaves does not seem to progress... yesterday I washed the Raspberry which showed the clawed leaves.

Wookie HP:
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RaspberryHP:
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ramse

ramse

Active member
these are two alleged male wookies, I'm just waiting to have absolute certainty

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trifoliate:
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ramse

ramse

Active member
this is another Raspberry female of about 5 weeks... I don't know why there was a pH problem with the soil ... after a wash and fixed the outflow pH seems to be much better, even if like the other Raspberry has some clawed leaves... the other strains have not shown any problems with this soil mix... maybe it is a fairly delicate strain to nutes
lots of little problems this year...

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all advice welcome
sorry for my bad english and thanks for sharing
 
ramse

ramse

Active member
ok i will give a foliar feeding with Ca Mg. I have doubts about boron... what do you think about it? from the upper leaves that seem slightly bronze? if it is this, it is more an optical effect of light.

in these 7-8 weeks of growth I gave 2-3 foliar applications of lithothamnium calcareum (80% Ca and 15% Mg) but I don't know how much is bioavailable

well, anyway tomorrow I should irrigate and then I will also check the runoff pH. Then I will give foliar feeding

I'd like to understand the cause of these problems...
I sowed in 1.6 liter tall jars in a mixture of light mix, then I transplanted into 1 gal jars with light mix and finally a final transplant in 3 gal pots with a mix of 30% light mix and the remaining all-mix (organic pre-fertilizer) ...I have usually never had any problems

Thanks for your help
 
ramse

ramse

Active member
to the wookies I gave a light feeding with a high P fertilizer,
tonight I will give the foliar Ca Mg to all

all in all it seems to me that they are quite well, the strange color I saw in the upper leaves seems to me to have improved

RazHP
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Wookie HP
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ramse

ramse

Active member
the only one that shows a clear imbalance is one of the small Razs, which is the one that had had the pH problem.

I also think I discovered what was the cause of acidifying the soil. Practically my girlfriend has watered a plant with outflow water from the other plants LOL... and I really think that it is the Raspberry in question

magnesium?

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