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My 1000 watt Vero 29 Gen 7 LED Build

linky

Member
About a week or two ago I built a 10 vero 29 cob fixture and powered them at 100 watts each to replace a 1000 watt hps se fixture over a 4 x 4.

I have a couple 12 Cree cxb3590 cobs fixtures right now that I was powering at 50 watts each (600 watts total) and it does awesome. But I wanted them to light up a little more so I replaced the drivers in them with meanwell hlg 240 1750b's to run them at ~62.5 watts each instead.. so that left me with 6 of the mean well 1400b drivers.

I had already just finished replacing my veg and mother lights (MH and t5 fixtures) with cobs fixtures I built so I needed something to do with the 6 now unused drivers.

I stole the layout from growmau5's canopy 10 build, mine is a much more basic version of that though. I did a 10 cob Vero 29 gen 7 C's (~68 volts each,they are the most efficient Vero 29 Gen 7;s you can get, by about 15% or more efficient that B's and D's) 3000k 80 cri and 3000k 90 cri mix and powered them with my old drivers at 100 watts each.. figured that would be fun to do..

After it was build I was so impressed with the output and how amazing it completely covered with deep penetration a 4 x 4 I decided to build two more! :)

I have apogee par sensor, was getting 900 or better ppfd all over the canopy at 24" and 1300+ at 12". After these lights are built I am going to hang one and put a 4 x 4 grid on the floor and measure many different points to get more accurate results. I have a apogee 120 sensor, and that does give lower than accurate results with LED's, so the numbers are actually quite a bit higher.. I may order a apogee 500 so I can get accurate measurements but they cost like 500 bucks.. ouch

Anyway, here are some photos of the last build and here are photos of the parts that just came for the new builds.

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majorana

Member
What's that between the bottom two heatsinks, a potentiometer for the whole thing? And what material did you use for the frame? Also: why the fan on the pin heatsink, rather than simply a bigger heatsink..?

As for the efficiency of Vero29 gen C/B/D, you're entirely correct for the power you're driving them at. In different configurations that's not necessarily the case. The Bridgelux product simulator does a better job than me showing the numbers, and I suggest anyone thinking of a build take a look at that.

I might sound critical, but that's just because I'm jealous: it's a beautiful build, respect!
 

linky

Member
What's that between the bottom two heatsinks, a potentiometer for the whole thing? And what material did you use for the frame? Also: why the fan on the pin heatsink, rather than simply a bigger heatsink..?

As for the efficiency of Vero29 gen C/B/D, you're entirely correct for the power you're driving them at. In different configurations that's not necessarily the case. The Bridgelux product simulator does a better job than me showing the numbers, and I suggest anyone thinking of a build take a look at that.

I might sound critical, but that's just because I'm jealous: it's a beautiful build, respect!

That is the 12v dc power supply for the fans between the lower two heat sinks.

I would have went with a larger heat sink but could not find one in stock anywhere that would do 100 watts passively. I am sure these (133mm)heat sinks will keep them cool enough to not burn up the cob if one of the fans fail.. they are currently at 105F with the fan on at its hottest point.

They are at 120F on my fixtures with these heat sinks and vero 29's at 75 watts passively, so sure it would be okay at 100 watts. I have good air flow/movement in my room as well which helps.

This is 8020, the frame. 8020.net or tnutz.com, awesome stuff.
 

linky

Member
Got the frame built for both of the two new lights, here is the first one cut and put together.

vigP0Kr.jpg



work area :)


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Phychotron

Member
Awesome, i've been working my way up to larger lights of this nature. What's the estimated cost for this thing?
 

linky

Member
5 of these Vero 29 Gen 7's C's 3000k 80 CRI - $30.28 each

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bridgelux/BXRC-30E10K0-C-73/976-1398-ND/6152408

5 of these Vero 29 Gen 7's C's 3000k 90 CRI - $31.90 each

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bridgelux/BXRC-30G10K0-C-72/BXRC-30G10K0-C-72-ND/6181453

5 of these HLG-185H-C1400B drivers - $54.72 each

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...irtualkey63430000virtualkey709-HLG185H-C1400B

10 of these LEDIL ANGELINA Series 1 92° Round White Reflector - $3.49 each

http://www.futureelectronics.com/en...x?ProductID=F13838ANGELINAXWLEDIL8043516&IM=0

10 of these LEDIL Round Base Clamp For Bridgelux Vero Series Reflector - $0.68 each

http://www.futureelectronics.com/en...?ProductID=C13584CLAMPVERO29LEDIL1034959&IM=0

3 of these Black Anodized 8020 series 10 96" extrusions - $23.50 each

http://www.tnutz.com/product/ex-101...-black-anodized/?attribute_pa_length=96-inche

4 of these 8020 Black Anodized Corner Brackets - $3.60 each


http://www.tnutz.com/product/cb-010-k-black-4-hole-inside-corner-gusset/

12 of these 8020 Black Anodized Corner Brackets - $2.00

http://www.tnutz.com/product/cb-010-a-black-10-series-black-2-hole-inside-corner-gusset/

I ordered 100 of these (per light) (more than enough) T Nuts and Screws $0.19 each


http://www.tnutz.com/product/economy-t-nut-screw/

10 of these 133mm Heat Sinks - $16.00 each

https://northerngrowlights.com/collections/all/products/sst133-passive-heatsink

5 of these Single Linear Potentiometer Pot, 100K 10 pack $7.96

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DIZJ6X0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

wire for cobs $14.99

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IN838Z0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Power supply for fans $17.98

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E6RMASC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

used 18 gauge speaker wire for fans ~$3.00

$957.42 Total for each light.

Sure there is misc other things but that is most or all of it I think.

Ohh I did forget 3/4" aluminum angle iron 1/8" thickness I am using to mount the heat sinks, need approx ~20' for each light. Since I am doing black this time I went out and bought some aluminum etching primer and flat black paint for it a well. ~$50 bucks total I would say.. I order my angle iron from metalsdepot.com

https://www.metalsdepot.com/products/alum2.phtml?page=aangle&LimAcc= &aident= 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8 16' long, $13.76 each.


Also I did not include shipping in all this, guess approx $80-100 in shipping total
 

linky

Member
Heat sinks drivers and brackets all mounted up


dk8ipWe.jpg




Fans mounted and all wired up. Need to flip it over and mount all the cobs and wire them next.



RKNUxFK.jpg


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linky

Member
First light completed, just have to add the hangers to it. Time to mount the fans/cobs and wire the 2nd light.

jltiBlB.jpg
 

linky

Member
Okay, I have the first light all built and hung in the garage for some testing

I ended up deciding to build an all 90 CRI light and an all 80 CRI light, this is the all 90 CRI cobs light, these exact cobs BXRC-30G10K0-C-72

I am using apogee par sensor 120. This sensor is not accurate for leds unfortunately.. it will display a LOWER than actual result, by as much as 10-20 percent or more possibly. I am debating ordering the 500 sensor, its over 500 bucks though and I am not sure I really want to spend that kinda money on something I will hardly ever use.

I am going to go pick up some white foam board to create a 4 x 4 grid and take a bunch of measurements, but here is one measurement from 24". You multiple this number by 5 to get your par/ppd number (would actually be like 6 or something with this sensor but we will just do 5 as if it was an hid or something, just know this is a lower than actual result).

24" = > 950 PPD at center.

I will do a full grid at 24" and at 18" and 12" later tonight or tomorrow. I will do the 80 CRI light as well when I am done wiring it all up.

Ohh its pulling just over 1000 watts at the wall, so each cob is getting roughly 95 watts.

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linky

Member
Okay, here are the results of the 90 CRI light

Here is the grid and the black dots are where I took measurements from. I took more going down the 2' 3' 4' grid line and the measurements were mostly the same in much spots, so I took just stuck with the spots shown here.

Had I taken measurements at the purple line the numbers were higher, there is the extra center cob in that location on those two sides. So the numbers listed here are slightly lower than if I had taken them at the purple line.


I took measurements at 1000 Watts at 12" 24" and 30" I also took measurements at 750 Watts at 12" 24" and 30".

Also remember with this Apogee 120 sensor it will show less than actual par readings (15-20 percent maybe?) for LEDS.

Here are the results

1000 Watts 30"

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1000 Watts 24"

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1000 Watts 12"

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I will do the 750 watt images and upload them in a bit. I may do another test with the ledil reflectors taken off as well just to see how it effects the numbers.
 
I like your work and design, but it seems your PPFD numbers are low for cree products. I think you are driving them harder. Driving them softer will give you higher PPFD numbers as the cree products perform best at and below 50w around 160 lumes/watt delivering the highest joules available. I think your original 600w light delivered the highest joules available, but more expensive to build. I love your work the lights look great. I love the black 20/20.
 

linky

Member
I like your work and design, but it seems your PPFD numbers are low for cree products. I think you are driving them harder. Driving them softer will give you higher PPFD numbers as the cree products perform best at and below 50w around 160 lumes/watt delivering the highest joules available. I think your original 600w light delivered the highest joules available, but more expensive to build. I love your work the lights look great. I love the black 20/20.

Hey there, these are Vero 29 cobs and will do around 160 lm/watt at 100 watts, the 80 CRI C versions. These are the 90 CRI versions here (almost done building the 80 CRI version of this light) which do around 135 lm/watt at 100 watts.

The numbers shown are low by possibly 20 percent due to the fact I am using an Apogee 120 par sensor which does not show accurate numbers for leds. It misses some of the spectrum leds provide, above like 600nm. I would have to get the apogee 500 sensor in order to accurately measure leds, which is like 500 bucks.. have not decided if I want to splurg for that as I really don't need it.
 
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