Mold prevention

What's up guys, I just have a couple questions regarding watering late in the flowering period and mold prevention.. I watered my g13 pineapple express that is already about 2/3-3/4 finished flowering with 5 gallons of water 4 days ago. That next day, it rained a little bit.. and poured the day after that. I figured i should wait at least 3 days since the last rain to go back and water her. I had some auto's this year and lost about half of the harvest due to mold and would hate it if i had that happen to this baby. also, are there any products that you could buy at walmart or anything for mold prevention that wouldn't do any harm on your plants? thanks abunch dudes happy growing!

It'd be greatly appreciated if someone could help me out here.. If i can get by with watering tonight without having to worry about mold I'd really like to do so cause it's supposed to be really sunny the next few days here in my area..

Serenade and actinovate are organisms that eat all the bad molds and fungii that attack cannabis. I sprayed last night during rain and the ladies look fine, little to no additional pistol death and protected against things that ruin yield.

Healthy plants are the best defense against disease.

Yeah that's true.. but where do I get ahold of Serenade and actinovate spray??

backyardbogfan said:

Serenade

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I agree.
Great product.

You can start removing the larger fan leaves and cutting a few of the smaller fan leaves out of the bud sites to open up the plant and allow for airflow. Also, clean out the bottoms because as water evaporates slowly it might condense on the bottom of the leaves/buds above if the sun doesn't come out all day. Try to cut out leaves that touch each other or overlap; like where water might get stuck.
Also, beware of caterpillars. Their droppings, once wet, will mold and it may spread.
When growing outdoors, it's all about prevention. When you pick up some Serenade, you can do preventative maintenance the next time around.
You can spray about 4/5 days; it's pretty stinky stuff. You can get away with it up until the last couple of weeks of flower but I do suggest misting with water in the last couple weeks to clean the plant. This is a double edged sword, so make sure you keep an eye on the weather and you know the sun will be out to dry the plants...or a brisk wind.

Good luck!

A swamp grower named OldsterOne, who hasn't written to this forum for a while, claimed that a very dilute solution of over-the-counter aspirin, sprayed on plants as the buds near maturity, was the most effective mold-prevention spray that he had ever tried.

OldsterOne harvested by boat, and I remember he posted pictures of some of the more magnifient buds I had ever seen pulled out of a swamp. Using his dilute aspirin solution spray on his plants, he claimed to have cut mold losses to zero, year after year.

This year, I will likely be trying this spray at the first hint of mold that I spot on my plants that are just starting out here at the Equator

Nothing works.

SmokeyTheBear said:

Nothing works.

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Why so negative?


Chin up, chest out, mate.

Is this to prevent black mold, or powdery mildew?

Swamp Thang said:

A swamp grower named OldsterOne, who hasn't written to this forum for a while, claimed that a very dilute solution of over-the-counter aspirin, sprayed on plants as the buds near maturity, was the most effective mold-prevention spray that he had ever tried.

OldsterOne harvested by boat, and I remember he posted pictures of some of the more magnifient buds I had ever seen pulled out of a swamp. Using his dilute aspirin solution spray on his plants, he claimed to have cut mold losses to zero, year after year.

This year, I will likely be trying this spray at the first hint of mold that I spot on my plants that are just starting out here at the Equator

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I stand by both Serenade & aspirin . . . . I use 1 aspirin in about a quart of water then spray on' once a month is supposed to work......
I have yet to use the Serenade this season, but am going as we speak to foliar spray the aspirin solution.

IeatCubes said:

Why so negative?


Chin up, chest out, mate.

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The truth sucks but it is what it is. If a plant is susceptible to mold, it's going to mold no matter what you do. Save your money.

SmokeyTheBear said:

The truth sucks but it is what it is. If a plant is susceptible to mold, it's going to mold no matter what you do. Save your money.

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I disagree. Big time. Preventative maintenance is your friend.
Debate?
Or we could just agree to disagree.

Aren't you the guy who said that starting plants before June/July is a waste because yours hit four feet either way?
What's height got to do with yield?

After reading what you said I did a search, found this

Master Gardener Martha MacBurnie has one of the most creative, beautiful landscapes in South County. It was recently featured on the cover of a national home and garden magazine, has been on numerous garden tours over the years and will be on public view again this coming weekend (July 14,15) during the Gardening with the Masters Garden Tour (see the details here).

One of the ways Martha keeps her landscape healthy is to spray them every two to three weeks with a very dilute solution of "aspirin water" -- that's right, aspirin water

First a little history: Martha is a major coordinator in the Master Gardener Demonstration Vegetable Garden at URI and a couple of years ago started an experiment treating vegetable plants with a solution of aspirin water. She diluted three ordinary aspirins (uncoated is best) in four gallons of water. Put the mix in a sprayer and sprayed each plant. Sounds nuts?

No -- there is science behind this. Aspirin contains a synthetic form of salicylic acid. Plants manufacture salicylic acid to activate their natural defenses against bacteria, viruses and fungi. There is also evidence that seeds soaked in aspirin water will have a higher germination rate and that some plants thus treated stand up better against heat stress.

Using this treatment at URI, Martha showed that plants grew better and had fewer problems. She tried variations on a theme including some commercial products that claimed to have the same benefits but aspirin was the winner. She even tried Alka-Seltzer (which contains aspirin) to get a better dissolve (aspirin does not dissolve easily) but still pure aspirin was the champ.

To dissolve the aspirin, she places a tablet in a little bit of cider vinegar before mixing it in with the water. Others crush the tablet between two spoons.

Martha has a background in science (she has a degree in meteorology) and is always tinkering with organic solutions to plant pest and disease problems. Admittedly the aspirin she uses is not strictly organic since it is a synthetic (purists would seek the sap from a willow tree which produces the purely organic stuff). But her aspirin-water treatment has garnered a lot of adherents and the attention of gardening newsletters nation-wide.

Here the link

http://gardenblog.projo.com/2007/07/dont-let-your-p.html

Does it work I don't know, but worth a try

Natural Enemies & Biological Controls

AQ-10: a biofungicide, is a solution of a fungi (Ampelomyces quisqualis) that kills powdery mildew. It is available as a preventive foliar spray, and research shows that it is good for when your disease levels do not exceed 3% on leaves and clusters. This fungi has also shown that it works (in vitro) against some other fungal diseases: Botrytis cinerea, Alternaria solani, Colletotrichum coccodes, and Cladosporium cucumerinum.
Serenade Garden Disease Control: another biofungicide foliar spray, which uses the bacteria Bacillus subtilis (QST 713, a patented strain) against a broad spectrum of plant diseases. These include scab, powdery mildew, sour rot, downy mildew, and early leaf spot, early blight, late blight, bacterial spot, and walnut blight diseases. It directly attaches and colonizes to fungal pathogens and outcompetes other pathogens. The spray contains bacterial spores of B subtilis and also a protein that the bacteria makes during fermentation. This protein is a natural fungicide that actively assists the bacterium in killing the fungal pathogens. It is approved by NOP and OMRI for use in organic gardening. Spray preventively, before the disease is seen and during, to combat it.
Actively Aerated Compost Tea:
full of biological activity, it provides lots of competition for the mildew, potentially also contains bacteria or fungi that kill the powdery mildew fungi
also fertilizes the plant
this is best made at home, so it's fresh
fungally dominant teas are most effective against powdery mildew
Trap Crops

Trap crops are not a valid method for controlling powdery mildew
Sprays or Dusts

Not in any particular order:

Water
Spraying water on your plants should be your first line of defense. If you spray your plants down periodically throughout the week, you can avoid seeing powdery mildew altogether. If you live in a humid area, you may not wish to do this unless you actually have powdery mildew, since it additional free moisture can cause or exacerbate other problems. Water kills the powdery mildew spores and prevents the mycelium from growing.
Biofungicides
there are biological controls that are available in a spray-on application. See section above on "Natural Enemies & Biological Controls".
Milk
1 part milk mixed with 9 parts water slows the spread of powdery mildew
spray twice per week, but keep refrigerated
discovered by Wagner Bettiol; he found that this was more effective against powdery mildew than toxic fungicides
also found to be an effective preventative for tomato mosaic
Aspirin
dissolve two uncotaed aspirin tablets (325 mg) into 1 quart of water and spray onto infected areas
Baking Soda and potassium bicarbonate:
sprays of potassium bicarbonate are supposedly more effective than sodium bicarbonate (baking soda).
It will also help prevent and reduce other fungal problems.
Good choice for controlling fungal diseases on cucurbits (squash, cucumber, melons) and tomatoes
start spraying 2 weeks before you expect symptoms to show up, spraying every 7 days until conditions are not favorable for the powdery mildew; increase frequency if it's humid
at home formula:
1 teaspoon baking soda (one source recommended 1 tsp, another source recommended 2 tsp; test your plant with the lower concentration first)
1 drop liquid soap (another source recommends 2 teaspoons)
2 quarts water
1 tablespoon of mineral oil (optional; it makes it stick to the leaves and kill some insects)
spray full-strength via a pump spray bottle or a hudson sprayer
caution: some foliage can get burned if the concentration of baking soda is too high; just pick off leaves if this happens
1% solution works best on grapes & ivy (Uncinula necator)
Jojoba Oil
E-RASE is a natural fungicide containing jojoba oil
toxic to fish
doesn't work as well on hairy-leafed plants
Garlic
Swedish studies showed 5% solution of garlic extract protected plants from Erysiphe cichoracearum (cucurbits, lettuc, parsley, etc)
another formula is to mix 1 gallon water with 1.25 cups garlic powder; spray on to plants early in the day
Soap Sprays
only soap sprays with sulfur added are effective against powdery mildew; review labels before buying
Garlic & Diatomaceous Earth Dust
mix equal parts garlic powder and diatomaceous earth (DE) and use a flour sifter to apply to plants with powdery mildew
dont use sifter for cooking after this
Cinnamon
combine 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon with 1 quart water in a spray bottle; spray both sides of leaves thoroughly
Neem Oil:
also known as azadirachtin, however if a product only lists azadirachtin as its active ingredient, then it will not act as a fungicide. Must be the full component of neem oil to work against powdery mildew
mostly preventive; spray before it shows up, but one study showed that 1% solution controlled 95-100% of the powdery mildew on hydrangeas, phlox, and lilacs when repeated every 7-14 days
broad spectrum repellant, growth regulator, and insecticide
also has a bit of a systemic effect
can harm beneficial insects
works fastest in hot weather
Teas
Comfrey Tea
Chamomile Tea
antibacterial & fungicidal
use as a foliar spray
also helps preven damping off
Chemical Fungicides (sulfur, copper, and other synthetic fungicides) should be your very last ditch effort. The problem with using these is that they kill all fungi indiscriminately. There are many fungi in your soil and on the leaves of your plants that are living symbiotically with your plants. Killing these beneficial fungi that are protecting - and feeding - your plant makes way for a host of other diseases, insects, nematodes and even nutritional problems. Powdery mildew can also become tolerant (resistant) to fungicides, especially systemics.
Sulfur
considered to be an organic fungicide
moderately toxic
can slightly decreases the pH of your soil - although this can be a bonus, if you live in arid regions
Sulfur can injure the plant, burning the leaves, if used when it's over 90 degrees F (although another source stated the threshold as 80 degrees F).
Sulfur injures some melons no matter what the temperature is.
Timing of when you spray during the season is important
doesn't kill the spores, but it does prevent germination on the plant surface
Sulfur mixed with lime can kill recently germinated spores
harms beneficial insects
Copper
considered organic
toxic to humans and animals, very toxic to fish, but it doesn't harm the beneficial insects
often combined with sulfate in bordeaux mix, this will inhibit germination and spore production
Bordeaux Mix:
combines copper sulfate and hydrated lime
fungicidal & insecticidal

IeatCubes said:

I disagree. Big time. Preventative maintenance is your friend.
Debate?
Or we could just agree to disagree.

Aren't you the guy who said that starting plants before June/July is a waste because yours hit four feet either way?
What's height got to do with yield?

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I don't care to debate. I know from 15 years of experience that it doesn't work for guerilla growing. I've tried everything. Unless you have plants in your backyard and can spray them every three days it's not going to help. and I never said it was a waste. I said it was foolish to put plants out early as in May because they will get 8-12 ft tall. Very obvious to helicopters. and where I live they are flying over daily. Also, I said it was purely my opinion.

STBear, I agree with the guerilla garden mold (40+ years of it) But in my home garden I can slow it down n delay mold, have the ground under your plant, clear of debrey, by putting fans in your grow, n by covering your plant from dew, n rain in the flowering season.

SmokeyTheBear said:

I know from 15 years of experience that it doesn't work for guerilla growing. I've tried everything.

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It's all about dedication and persistence.
It can be done.

The more you go to your grow the higher chances you have of leaving trails and getting caught. I recommend not getting caught.

Serenade and Actinovate are best for prevention. You should spray every 7 days.