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Old 06-15-2018, 07:55 PM #351
redlaser
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Originally Posted by led05 View Post
I don't have studies but have read at countless different AG sites, forums etc that when foliar feeding you want the cleanest possible water going in, focus the foliar on single issues / concerns aka mineral focal points and try and get PH around 6-7, slightly acidic... Closer to 6 than 7 would be my advice. So many articles in MJ forums/mags saying a lot lower though, I disagree. Get strong sprayer, small particles and all will be well.

I understand different mineral absorption rates at varying PH's but everything I've personally experienced is PH of 6ish is ideal, best overall
5.5-7 ph is the range I’ve seen recommended on most pesticide labels
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Old 06-16-2018, 05:41 PM #352
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Quote:
Originally Posted by led05 View Post
I don't have studies but have read at countless different AG sites, forums etc that when foliar feeding you want the cleanest possible water going in, focus the foliar on single issues / concerns aka mineral focal points and try and get PH around 6-7, slightly acidic... Closer to 6 than 7 would be my advice. So many articles in MJ forums/mags saying a lot lower though, I disagree. Get strong sprayer, small particles and all will be well.

I understand different mineral absorption rates at varying PH's but everything I've personally experienced is PH of 6ish is ideal, best overall

In my experience using fulvic acid (not humic acid) works really well, along with a wetting agent, to increase solubility of the nutrient into the foliar. For water and nutrients to enter plants through the leaves, they either need to enter in the stomata or via the cell wall and cell membranes. Cell walls are normally really good at keeping things out of them, ensuring that any type of transfers happen at the stomata. But fulvic acids are able to penetrate cell walls and membranes and chelate minerals straight into cells.
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Old 06-19-2018, 12:03 AM #353
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Originally Posted by reppin2c View Post
How much is to much stash?

Easy on the fishy fert in flower, it transfers into the flavor
How does that work? Taste like fish or like hay from too much N?
I kinda relish the idea of my strawberry goji being strawberry catfish. Or skunkfish. Now that's dank.
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Old 06-19-2018, 03:17 AM #354
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Fish. And then when you make concentrates its extra good
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Old 06-19-2018, 03:40 AM #355
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Originally Posted by reppin2c View Post
Fish. And then when you make concentrates its extra good
Thanks for the heads up, I still have at least three weeks of no feed on these strains four if they go ten weeks. I do add a cup of milk to the fish to help with the smell.
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Old 06-19-2018, 09:07 PM #356
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Any bad taste experiences with crab late flower? Applied some crab flour today at week 8, will find out soon and share results.
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Old 06-20-2018, 04:09 PM #357
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Originally Posted by cannascholar View Post
Any bad taste experiences with crab late flower? Applied some crab flour today at week 8, will find out soon and share results.
The oil's in fish hydrolysate can carry the scent over into the produce it used on... I don't think that crab shell meal/flour would do the same. They generally have very little scent in the bag.

Most fish products put right on the label not to apply within 2 weeks of harvest for anything they are used on. I have never had a complaint for fish tasting produce in anyway...and I have on multiple occasions used it within days of harvesting things like romaine and spinach.
My thoughts are that cannabis would/could absorb some scent through foliage if you have a room freshly watered with fish and full of buds close to harvest. Other than that... I don't see it happening through root uptake.

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Old 06-26-2018, 10:27 PM #358
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An interesting single experiment.

I took a nutrient solution that I was gonna feed to coco and had chn run a test on it. 30 minutes later ran some distilled water through it and had that tested also

Interestingly Ca and NO3 matched what I put in along with the chelated micros. P, K and Mg basically doubled

I did not expect to see that at all. What does it mean?

Fuck if I know for sure. But I am starting to suspect that Yara Liva is a fucking awesome Ca amendment if you can stand the nitrate
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Old 06-27-2018, 01:10 AM #359
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Couple questions Jidoka... You tested the formula before it went through the coco or did you collect the run off? and distilled water thru the coco too after the solution?


is this with a custom chelated micros blend or still with STEM?


Also a separate question about supplementing aminos instead of using nitrate for flower... I think I'm ready to give it a go with the ferti nitro... I'm thinking my total N is somewhere around 160 ppm in my nutrient solution, and a tiny amount in my medium from the compost..



What would be a good starter application rate to foliar feed the ferti nitro and how often?
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Old 06-27-2018, 05:38 AM #360
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Before and the 30 minute pour through.

I use either stem or a custom blend. I would add. A tiny bit of cobalt to stem

So at 160 N I assume good light and close to vpd numbers...yea? CO2? Are you using raw salts?

Anyways a couple of things. With CaNO3 it is easy to get too much Ca into the plant except during stretch. During that time I do not believe in upping CaNO3. The adding drives plant growth so fast Ca ca not keep up. You get stretchy plants and possibly claw

So what I do is spray 6-9 gm of Biomin Ca weekly for 2 weeks

At the end of 2 weeks a couple of things happen. Cell division slows down making Ca less important. It will start to build quickly in the tissue if you don’t cut back.

The 2nd thing that happens is P demand goes up...but not K.

Fortunately nitrate is blocking P uptake. So by dropping cano3 you can solve both those issues. How much I have not worked out exactly but 20% is safe

Now you have a N (or protein) shortage. That is where the aminos come in. You want to use enough to keep them green. I use 9gm/gal 3x a week

Least that is how I do it. Hope that helps
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